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Ladakh Inner Line Permit Updates on Process & Download Form

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There is no doubt that Leh – Ladakh is one of the top most places on Priority for any traveler or tourist who loves traveling. The barren yet beautiful wide landscapes of Ladakh are something unforgettable and one cannot just resist seeing them live after getting the glimpse of them anywhere. However, in order to visit various places in Ladakh you need Inner Line Permits as most of these places are near the Inner Line of LAC or LOC which is close to international borders. These places include Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley including Turtuk, Drok Pa Villages of Dah Hanu, Inner Changthang Region which includes Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, etc.. Ladakh inner line permits are issued from DC office located in Leh and hence, once needs to first visit Leh to get these permits and then carry on journey in rest of the Ladakh after obtaining these permits. Without the permits, you will not be allowed to visit these places and Army/ITBP checkposts at various locations en-route these place will send you back in case you do not have permits to pass them.

Update: April 2017 = Pay environment fees and apply for permits again
  • The environment fees of Rs 400 & Inner Line Permits (most likely as well) will again be required in Ladakh for Indian Tourists / Nationals with effect from April 1st, 2017. This has been recently announced and is available on official website of Leh administration. It is expected that a public circular should follow soon as well. Hence, like it used to happen before 2014, all Indian Nationals or Indian Tourists WILL need to pay environment fees and may need to also get the inner line permits in Leh – Ladakh region in order to visit the restricted places like Dah, Hanu Villages, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Tso Moriri, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Tyakshi, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only).

Update: May 2014

No Permits Required in Ladakh for Indian Tourists / Nationals
  • In the recent circular published by DM in Leh, it has been stated that Indian Nationals or Indian Tourists DO NOT need any inner line permits in Leh – Ladakh region any more starting from 1st May 2014 in order to visit the restricted places: “Dah, Hanu Villages, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Tso Moriri, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Khardung La, Nubra Valley (up to Panamik), Turtuk, Tyakshi, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only)
  • As an Indian Tourist or Indian Nationals, now you can just present your valid Photo ID Nationality Proof (Driving License, Indian Passport, Aadhar Card, PAN Card, etc..) at the ITBP/Army check-posts, when and where asked from you and that will just acts as permit for you 🙂 🙂 …
  • Please note that being an Indian or domestic tourist, you STILL NEED to apply for Inner Line Permits in order to visit places like: Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, beyond Loma bend, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors.
Detailed info. on this news and updates along with official circular, can be found at the link: No Permits Required for Indian Tourists in Ladakh

Couple of years back I wrote an article Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh which explain out the complete process for applying these permits, places to mention on permits for Ladakh and download of the Inner Line Permit Form as well as Sample Application Letter you need to attach to the permit form. It has been sometime now and there are few things that have been changed or updated. If I look closely, then not many things have been changed, only few here and there. In this article I will detail out these changes that has happened in the last few years to keep the information updated including the updated download of Inner Line Permit Form as well as updated Sample Application Letter template. Please note that original article linked above has also been updated with this information as well and has all the information you need to understand more about Ladakh Inner Line Permits.

Important Notice at DC Office Khardung La Pass Timings
Khardung La Pass Timings

Updates on Process & Places

  • In addition to the permits costs of Rs 20 per day per person and Rs 10 which is charged per person one time towards Red Cross Fund, now you have to pay Rs 200 per person one time as a part of environment fees as well. This fees is either given at DC Office or someone entering from Khaltsi from Srinagar – Leh side or Upshi at Manali – Leh side. They hand over a post card detailing out the number and you can show that post card in DC Office to let them know that you have already paid it at Khaltsi or Upshi.
  • There is a special Student fees too which is just Rs 20 one time and students can avail it by showing their school/college identity card.
  • Now a group of 2 or more foreigners can apply for permits. Earlier at least 4 persons were required to apply for permits but not the minimum group has been decreased to 2 for foreigners.
  • Foreigners with permits are now allowed to even visit Man – Merak villages along Pangong Tso and till Loma post where you take right towards Hanle but Hanle is still inaccessible to them.
  • Both Indians and Foreigners with permits can now travel beyond Turtuk to Pachathang and Tyakshi Villages in Nubra Valley. Permits are now also issued for Kargil – Khangral – Chiktan & Dah – Garkone – Darchik – Batalik – Slimo – Kargil routes in the Kargil and Batalik sectors as well.
  • Foreigners are allowed to even visit Man and Merak villages too along Pangong Tso.
  • Process: The process of applying the permits is slightly changed. Now, majority of times you need not go yourself in person to DC or ADC to get the permits signed or stamped rather in the room on the left hand side as you enter DC office, the person in charge will stamp the permit for you. Only in special case you can ask the clerk to permit you to meet DC or ADC and get your permits approved from them in person. Otherwise as per new process, you submit the form at first desk, pay the permit fees at next desk, then pay the red cross fee at next desk and finally pay the environment fees at last desk which hand over the permit to you after stamping it. You make the photocopies of this stamped permit to hand over to different checkposts.
Ladakh Inner Line Permit – Environment Fees
Ladakh Inner Line Permit - Environment Fees
Updates on Permits for Chusul & Hanle or Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri
  • Sometimes permits for Pangong Tso – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Hanle / Tso Moriri are provided by DC Office BUT unfortunately once you reach Chusul or Loma or Mahe then you are not allowed to pass through by army posts. So, even if you have the permits do not consider 100% that you will be able to travel over Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri direct route via Chusul – Tsaga villages 🙁 …
  • Now, beyond Loma towards Hanle, you are not supposed to carry an electronic item for taking pictures including cameras. May be phones they might allow but digital cameras are checked at Loma checkpost before you are allowed to pass through to Hanle and you are supposed to submit them at Loma checkpost or hide them deep in your bags 😀 … However, please pay respect to the security concerns and only take pictures of non-sensitive areas which are just subject to tourists standpoint like Hanle Monastery 🙂

Updated Download Form & Sample Application Letter

The permit form has been updated and now there is a template available for request application letter too to ease out things. You can download the updated formats at the links below


If you happen to have any other update that I have missed but has been added in the last couple of years, please feel free to comment below or suggest. If you have any queries or doubts related to Ladakh Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh then as well please feel free to comment below or start a new topic in Ladakh Itinerary Advice forum in DoW Community.

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  1. Hi Dheeraj,

    From your experience of traveling in Ladakh, can you advise on road conditions and the possibility of snow on the roads and snowfall while traveling to Leh from Shrinagar and Leh to Manali. It will help us to prepare ourselves better for the trip. We are planning the trip in last week of May 2018 from Delhi via Shrinagar route and aim to complete the circuit through Manali.

    Thank you in advance for your help.

    • Harsh, last week of May this year sounds reasonable to travel from Srinagar to Ladakh to Manali. Manali Leh road should open by the first week of June when you will reach that leg of the tour after covering Srinagar – Leh and Manali – Leh. So, I believe it should be fine to travel Regarding snowfall, it may or may not happen, it depends on the weather. Sometimes, especially on Manali – Leh, snowfall does happen in May or June.

  2. Vinay Kumar on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    Hope you are doing well. I have two questions regarding the permit.

    Me and my friend are planning to cover Umlingla Pass near Hanle, and we have requested one of our friend in Leh to arrange the permits and mail it to us as we don’t want to go Leh and waste two more days. Do you think this will work ? or we have to be physically present in Leh to obtain the permits ? Second question is which all places should be mentioned on the permit to ride through Hanle region easily ?

  3. vishal nanda on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    Me and 03 of my friends will be traveling first time to Leh from 19th – 26th Aug 2017. We will be arriving leh on 19th Aug at 1200 hrs via Flight and will stay for acclimatization till 20th. However, we will be exploring the local market and do the nearby sightseeing on these 02 days. but for that we require Rented RE’s (02) Two riders and 02 Pillions. Note: Weight of per pillion is 90-95 Kgs. (both doesn’t know riding)

    Our Tour Plan is as follows:

    i. 21st Early Mrng (EM) i.e. 0600 Hrs we will head towards Nubra or Diskit and want to return to Leh on the same day (If possible)
    a) If we go to Nubra, can we come back on same day 21st, or shud we go to Deskit only and then return to Leh.
    (b) stay at Hunder and then proceed to pangong on 22nd early mrng . How much time will it take to reach pangong via leh -karu – changla)

    ii. 22nd EM vl move from Leh (or hunder, as mentioned above) – Karu- Chang La – Pangong Tso . Overnight Stay at Pangong

    iii. Return leh on 23rd by evening, hand over the bikes to lessor.

    iv. head to kargil via bus on 24th mrng so that we can reach srinagar by 25th..

    v. explore srinagar on25th & 26th

    Our return Flight is from Srinagar on 26th Aug 2017 at 1600 Hrs (Dept. tym) Need to be airport by 1400 Hrs and heard that travel time from leh – Srinagar is almost 12-14 Hrs and a night Hault at Kargil. Can we manage to reach srinagar airport on 26th before 1400Hrs if we leave on 25th Mrng.

    Vishal Nanda

    • Vishal, I will recommend that you go to Nubra and stay for one night there and then next morning move to Pangong Tso directly from Nubra Valley. Then come back to Leh from Pangong Tso. This is the most recommended option or else drop Srinagar plan for sightseeing. Leh – Srinagar is around 13-16 Hrs depending on breaks nd traffic.

  4. Bhaskar Roy on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your response.

    Another query.

    We will travel Ladakh with a local experienced driver in his Xylo. Do we need to obtain inner Line permit / pay tax for him also?

  5. Bhaskar Roy on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    2 queries.

    1. What is the difference between obtaining Inner Line Permit directly and through agent?

    2. I will visit restricted places on the first 6 days of Leh visit. After this, I will be at Leh for 3 more days for visiting Lamayuru / local sight seeing etc. What should be time span for my Inner Line Permit?


  6. Hi Dheeraj,

    Thank you for such an informative guide for travelers. We are two couples, who have planned a bike trip around Leh from July 21- 28. It is the very first time for us in Leh Ladakh and also first time for long bike rides. We fall in the age group 30-35 and are physically fit without any serious ailments. Despite thorough planning with help of DOW, I am a bit apprehensive about certain aspects of the trip. The itinerary we plan to follow is given below: We are flying into Leh from Delhi.

    Day 1: Reach Leh in morning and Acclimatize, Hire bikes
    Day 2: Ride to Alchi and back. Rest
    Day 3: Leh to Nubra via Khardungla. Overnight at Hunder.
    Day 4: Nubra to Pangong (Need best route and Fuel options). Overnight in Pangong
    Day 5: Pangong to Leh
    Day 6: Leh (Tso Moriri Maybe)
    Day 7: Leh (Tso Moriri Maybe)
    Day 8: Flight out of Leh

    1. What is the best route from Nubra to Pangong for normal bikes and will we have enough fuel to last Leh – Nubra-Pangong- Leh if we carry extra fuel with us?

    2. We have Day 6 and 7 in hand and were wondering if Leh -Tso Moriri- Leh would be possible or too tight?

    Thanks so much


    • Hello Juhi,

      I will recommend taking the traditional route from Leh to Changla to Pangong Tso rather taking the direct route to Pangong tso from Nubra which is quite tough and there is no help available in case of any breakdown. Since, you will be on rented bike, chances of breakdown is fair. This will mean dropping the Tso Moriri and either use day as rest or do a three day trip to Nubra Valley and visit Turtuk village in Nubra Valley.

  7. Ankur Rawat on

    Namaskaar Deepak Bhai
    This is Ankur from Agra. Me and my friend are planning to go to ladakh on 15th of this month on bike from Delhi. Initially evrything was cleared that we should go manali first thn via jispa–> sarchu finally leh but while doing homework for this trip I stuck in a delimma that what to do and how to do. Actually i have only 9 days + 1 extra day for the whole trip and i want to explore almost all the main places like Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso Lake, of ladakh region(please correct me and add that place, if any major sight left mentioning by me). I whole heartedly request you to please make a balanced plan for me as this is going to be my first road trip to leh-ladakh. I choose manali as a starting point because i heard that it saves almost two days in comparison to srinagar – leh route plus i have a free accomodation and food facility at manali too. You are also requested to please enlighten the issue of permit & documents required for the whole trip from New Delhi upto destination going to set by you and what is the procedure of aquiring the same and from where. Please it is once again requested dear elder brother to guide me
    Sorry in advance for making you bother
    I hope you will reply soon

    A lots of love and blessings from me for your generous and very helpfull guidance in advance sir ji

  8. Hi Dheeraj,

    Just a clarification please,

    Is any permit needed for going to Tso Moriri from Tso Kar lake? We are planning to go there in our way from Manali to Leh, so we can’t apply for any permit before because, as far as I uderstood, they can only be issued in Leh.

    Maybe the permit for Tso Moriri only applies for the route from Pangong?


      • Hi Dheeraj,

        I really appreciate your advise.

        So, could we just go to Tsokar Lake instead? I undestand that no permit is needed for that, right? BTW we are riding Manali motorbikes. Are they allowed there?
        We know that they are banned in Tso Moriri, but not sure if this also happens in Tso Kar.

        Our plan is visiting Batal, Chandratal lake and Kaza before Tso Kar lake, distributed as follows:

        Manali – Chandratal – Batal
        Batal – Kaza
        Kaza- Batal
        Batal – Keylong
        Keylong – Sarchu
        Sarchu – Tso Kar lake
        Tso Kar lake – Sarchu

        Is this AMS friendly? 😀

        Thank you a lot

        • Hello Carletes,

          Technically, they should not be taken to Tso Kar but you can always say that you are just moving to Manali – Leh and took a short detour in worst case if at all confronted. Probability is very very less. Spend a night at Chandratal after coming back from Kaza instead of Batal. It will prep you for a sleep at Sarchu. If you sleep well at Sarchu, there will not be any issue with Tso Kar as well.

  9. Amol Chavan on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I have applied for inner line permits online but for payment there was not any options available. After I applying online for permit where should we have to pay environment charges and all. Do I still have to go to office of District Magistrate.

  10. Hello Dhiraj..
    We hv planned ladakh trip from 7 to 17 September 2017 starting from srinagar n ending at manali. We have planned to travel by our own bikes n planned to cover places like pangong tso moriri hundar khardung la etc.. So please tell me is it fine to travel by our own bikes in leh ladak considering the current taxi n bike mafia scenario? And can we get permits for all the places at the same time for 12 days?

    • Yes Atul, there is no issue at all by traveling on private bikes. Do not be afraid, they are good and helping people and just want people to respect the rules they have laid to curb outsiders commercial people minting money from their resources or opportunities. Private bikes or cars do not have any issues right from the start except just one ugly incident that happened.

      YEs, you can apply the permits once for all days you are in Ladakh.

  11. Arth Patel on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    I wanted to know if i can build tents in places like Nubra, pangong, hanle, moriri and jispa! Is it allowed to build our own tents? Or they(locals) won’t allow us? Because we are tight on budget.

  12. Arth Patel on

    Little bit off topic but how can i avoid Taxi union of Leh as i am going there with rented bikes.. is there any way? I’ll ride with 3 other bikes! The bike company where we are hiring said there won’t be an issue.. is it true? As we are students hiring in leh will cost us more!

  13. Arth Patel on

    Hi dheeraj , i have some changes in my route so it goes like
    Day 1: Delhi to pathankot
    2: pathankot to Srinagar
    3: Srinagar to kargil
    4: kargil to leh
    5:leh rest /sightseeing
    6:leh to hunder
    7: hunder to pangong
    8: pangong to leh
    9: leh to hanle
    10: hanle to tso morir
    11: tso moriri to sarchu.
    12:sarchu to manali

    Now the things is thay if and only if we don’t need a buffer day i really want to go to Kaza in spiti valley. Do you know how to plan my trip so i can include Kaza in my list? Is there any road goes to kaza from keylong? Or should i start after reaching Manali?

    • Hello Arth, first of all with just one day in hand, it is not possible to visit Kaza. The roads to Kaza from Keylong or Manali are one of the worst roads you may have ever seen. Riding/Traveling on it takes a toll on the body and in one day in any case it is not possible and will mean touching and coming. You may try

      Tso Moriri to Keylong, Keylong to Chandratal, Chandratal to Manali in one day but doing it this way with Kaza does not make any sense to me.

        • Again within two days it won’t make any sense to visit KAza as you will not be able to see much things up there. It is better to visit Chandratal lake in Spiti Valley and come back to Manali in those two days.

  14. Arth Patel on

    I want to go to the Hanle with my dslr is there any way to talk out of it? As i read in some of your post that they take the camera at Loma post. Any permission or extra fees for cameras?

      • Arth Patel on

        I have plan for my trip in ladakh..
        Day 1: Delhi to pathankot
        Day2: pathankot to patnitop
        Day3:patnitop to srinagar/sonamarg
        Day 4: srinagar/sonamarg to kargil
        Day 5:kargil to leh
        Day 6:leh local sightseeing
        Day 7:leh to hunder
        Day 8: hunder to pangong
        Day 9:pangong to leh
        Day 10:leh to hanle
        Day 11:hanle to tso moriri
        Day 12: tso morir to Sarchu
        Day 13:sarchu to manali
        Day 14:Manali to delhi
        Day 15:just in case something happens in between(buffer day)

        Is it feasible to do all this in trip? What do you suggest i should include or exclude? What route shiuld i take for hunder to pangong? Anything you want to suggest? Thank you!

        • Arth, your plan is very well balanced. You should take a call after reaching Nubra Valley. If vehicles are traveling up and running on Agham – Shyok route, you can take that route else take Wari La route. Also, both the routes should only be taken in case you have couple of vehicles in a convoy. If not then wait at Agham village to join a group of vehicles.

        • Arth Patel on

          Ohk Thank you and yes I’ll be riding with my group! Thank you for help 🙂

    • Hello Nitish & Angad,

      First of all a big salute to you guys and your spirit of Travel, heroes like you are real inspiration to many brothers. Hats Off… I can assist in whatever manner I can and I have seen people doing the Ladakh trip in such conditions too. In fact in delhi the Spinal Injury hospital takes people to Ladakh trip for the high level of motivation it provides to live life. You guys are all ready doing wonders with your travel, so you can really possibly do this trip and DoW in any manner can assist you to live this trip for you both. You have sufficient time on hands too, so please don’t feel worry and start planning the trip.


      Sorry for the late reply, was just bogged down to some personal stuff…

      • NItish & Angad on

        we wamt to know can srinagar leh and its nearby locations(gulmarg,pahalgam,kargil drass lamayaru mon.diskit,hunder,sumur,nubra pangong tso,tsomoriri and all other places) are muddy/sleepery.and please send the cheapest & best iternity for our visit.we make our plan but how can i send this to you for amendment pls.

        • NItish & Angad on

          can ATM in kargil leh diskit Hunder,Pangong TSo moriri ? if no Than how all manage their expences?

        • There will be an ATM in Kargil and in Leh only. No where else in Ladakh you will find ATMs. There is no phone as well at Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri.

    • Dheeraj,
      we are planing in 5 of sep.2015 to go zanskar for 12 days . Can it is sutaible time for going their for us. Last time we enjoy pahalgam, Gulmarg, srinagar leh route ,diskit hunder, nubra (maan vilage), so-moriri, and leh manali route.

        • Dheeraj,
          i also wants to become a part of Zanskar mega meet, can it possible? I am ready to go with this mega meet. Please advise me as early as possible.

        • So sorry on that front brother as all the teams are finalized and shuffling will not be possible unless someone drops out. I will keep you posted in case someone drops out.

        • Dheeraj,
          i also want to join Zanskar mega meet pls suggest to me can it possible for H/P. If i will a part of that its a my memorable event in whole life. So please inform me as early as possible to end my exitment. Please early reply.

        • Dheeraj,
          mujhe late pata chala is event ka . gar maine pahle se dhyan diya hota to aaj yah sthiti nahi aati.isi vazah se maine plan kiye huve samay 5 sep ke liye apane shathi angad ke sath aarakshan bhee karaa liya tha. lekin kinhi kaarano se mere mitr angad ka is varsh ka program radd ho gaya hai .” ISI LIYE MAINE SOCHA SHAYAD AAP LOGO KE SAATH MUJHE BHI PRAKRITI KE RANGIN AHASAS KO CHHUNE KA EK ALAG HI AANAND LENE AVASAR MILEGA TO SHAYAD JINDAGI KI RAAHE KUCHH DUR KE LIYE aasaan ho JAAYENGI. koi baat nahi gar aaplogo ke sath jaane na mila to bhi is baar mai akele hi jaa kar is prograam ko complit karne ki koshis karunga. mujhe nahi pataa yah sahi kadam hoga yaa nahi?

        • Nick, agar tum wait kar sakte ho to please do. Koi bhi apna program cancel karta hai and agar wahan seat hoti hai us team mein, to main tumhe sabse pehle bataunga. Dun worry.

  15. Hello!

    If I read correctly, foreigners now can take following route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri? I understand that I have a chance not to get permit and/or not allowed to cross Chusul Post.


    Thank you in advance.

  16. Hi,
    I have been religiously following DOW to understand Leh Ladakh Travel and finally planned from 20 June – 5 July covering Srinagar, Leh, Nubra, Pangong, Moriri and Manali and back to Delhi. My only concern left over if about applying and getting permits. Please help.

    • Hitesh, starting this year you do not need any permits as Indian Nationals for regular tourist destinations in Ladakh including Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley through regular routes.

      Please read the section of Update: May 2014 in the above article for more details on this newly introduced procedure.

      Are you planning to visit any non-tourist route?

      • NItish & Angad on

        Hi Dheeraj
        we are from the Nagpur. Me & my frnd Angad (both phy.challngd per.i use cruches my left leg amputed above knee total in accident & my frnds left leg below knee he use artificial German foot & always help me in travelling in tourist places) want to see Srinagar(including pahalgam,gulmarg with gondola(cable car) Leh Ladhakh Manali. from jammu 18-08-2014 to manali 03-10-2014. Can we travel in this physical conditions. PLease Help us for our imagination.

        • Hello Nitish & Angad,

          First of all a big salute to you guys and your spirit of Travel, heroes like you are real inspiration to many brothers. Hats Off… I can assist in whatever manner I can and I have seen people doing the Ladakh trip in such conditions too. In fact in delhi the Spinal Injury hospital takes people to Ladakh trip for the high level of motivation it provides to live life. You guys are all ready doing wonders with your travel, so you can really possibly do this trip and DoW in any manner can assist you to live this trip for you both. You have sufficient time on hands too, so please don’t feel worry and start planning the trip.


          Sorry for the late reply, was just bogged down to some personal stuff.

  17. Hi Dheeraj, can you please upload the 2014 Inner line permit form because the sample forms are 2013 ! Or if can forward a link to the 2014 form will be grateful to you!!!

    • JKB, unless you traveling the non tourist routes to Ladakh you do not need any permits starting this year in case you are an Indian. Otherwise, if you plan to take non – tourist places, then you can use the same permit form as it does not change every year unless it is that the only year it changed 😀

      • Hi Dheeraj, I have had a detailed discussion with Mr. Mehboob Ali, Asst Tourism Director, Leh, on Phone in which he stated i ll be need the permits for the routes i ll b travelling on i.e.

        1. Passing through Wari La route from Nubra towards Chang La to Pangong

        2. From Lukung to Marsemik La

        3. From Pangong to Hanle via Chushul and Nyoma

        4. Hanle to Moriri via twin Lake of Tso Chilling and Ryul.

        If you can give me some advice into this, will really appreciate bro! n ya i m an Indian National!

        • He is aboslutely right, you will need permits. For 2,3,4 even with permits there is no guaranteed passage allowed and army can send you back from any post 🙂

        • I am not sure if there is any update to the form in 2014. Till now we have been using these forms only as mentioned in the article above.

  18. sanjay negi on

    dheeraj I am planning to do Pangong-Chusul-Hanle-Loma-Mahe-Tso Moriri on 17/june on a xuv….is it all right? time and vehicle??

    • Sanjay, Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route or Pangong Tso to Hanle, the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga or remote Changthang routes are being given by DC office in Leh at ON and OFF basis, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit or issue you on your lucky day. Also, even if the permits are given then as well there is no guarantee that you will be allowed to cross Chusul Post or not because last year several such incidents happened and people with permits also had to return via same route. All this will mean that you will have to risk it for at least a day getting wasted if you are not allowed because there will be no guarantee until you cross Chusul and Tsaga post. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only via Leh.

      XUV should be good to go with careful driving.

  19. Hi, I’m Joehan from Malaysia. I’m going to visit Leh on June 2014 with my friends. We are going to Leh via Srinagar- Leh highway. From the article, I just want to re-confirm my understanding.
    1. At Ladakh, we just plan to visit Pangong Tso and Leh local sightseeing. Hence, for Inner Line Permit, we just have to state Pangong Tso only? Is there any other location in between Leh- Pangong Tso that we have to declare?
    2. With regards to the following statement, “Permits are now also issued for Kargil – Khangral – Chiktan & Dah – Garkone – Darchik – Batalik – Slimo – Kargil routes”,new permit is issued for the mentioned route. As for my trip, we just use Srinagar- Leh highway, there is no permit to be applied. Am I correct?

    Appreciate your reply guys. Cheers 🙂

    • Hello joehan,

      1. Yes, you just need to state Pangong Tso if you are visiting only Pangong Tso.
      2. Yes, there is no permit required to travel from Srinagar to Leh or Leh to Manali.


      • Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks. 1 more question. As per ILP that attached, it looks like that the sample is for Indian citizens as it stated there “the following Indian citizens are permitted to visit…”. Is the permit same for foreign tourist? Or there is another different permit for tourist?


  20. Amazing – Thanks to my buddy Nikhil Divan to have found a detailed travelogue ..very helpful..

    Thank you.

  21. Sunil Kumar on

    Dear Shri Dheeraj Sharmaji,
    Greetings of the day.
    Thanks for this wonderful efforts – selfless service.
    Me (63) and my wife are planning a Srinagar- Manali road tour starting 6th June 2014. Our itinerary is > Srinagar- Kargil–Leh-Tso Moriri-Sarchu-Keylong-Kaza-Manali- Delhi.At Kaza we plan to stay 2 nights and at all other places one night. (1)We need your general guidance on our plan. (2)Please also suggest us on availability of Taxis, (3)need and procedure for obtaining inner line permit,(4) safe and budget accommodations.
    Best regards.
    Sunil Kumar

    • Hello Sunil ji,

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travellers including me at the link here for 13-14 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      After reach Sarchu, you can move to Keylong or Sissu on next day. Then from Sissu you can move to Kaza for two days and stay at Sakya Abode (Tsering runs that and is more than a friend to me, you can refer him my name) and come back to Manali. At Sissu, you can stay at Hotel Triveni.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2014 – 15 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-12% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      For the list of good restaurants in Leh – Ladakh or eateries or food joints where food is enjoyed by many travellers including me, you can check the link here: List of Good Restaurants in Leh – Ladakh | Restaurant Reviews

      Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

      For details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

      I hope this helps.


  22. Dheeraj,
    Fantastic information. I’ll travelling to Pangong-Chusul-Hanle-Loma-Mahe-Tso Moriri route this month end. Read very confusing stories about passing army checkposts at Loma despite having right permits. Do you think this is possible? I ask since no updates yet on anybody done this in 2014.

    • Abhishek, I have detailed out the Permit Process and people not letting pass through the Chusul post in the article above. Yeah, since season has not yet started, no one is sure that this year what shall be the status but it should not change much, IMHO. If it is your lucky day, you will be allowed to pass through else you come back the whole way to Leh.

    • Johnny, you will be able to get permits as there will be other people too. Also, you have to go through a registered travel agent anyways, who will help you. Let’s keep discussion under one thread in the community link here

  23. Pingback: Heartbreak over Kargil to Leh | Ladakh Mega Meet - DeViL on WheeLs

  24. Dear Dheeraj,

    It is quite informative going through your website. I thank you for providing guidance to so many travelers. I too would like to seek your advice on the following.

    I am planning my trip to Leh Laddakh in 3rd week of June, 2014. I will be starting my journey from Kullu. I will be reaching Kullu by 9.00am. I have 6-7 days with me and the plan is to cover journey on bike from Kullu.
    Can you please guide me on the itinerary. What all places I should go to and where I should plan my ni8 stay. Further what other preparation is needed (eg inner line permit, etc).

    What will be the bike rentals and Deposit requirement in kullu?

    • Thank you Somesh. 6-7 day for a road trip to Ladakh will be tad low. It will take 2 days to reach Leh and 2 days to come back to Manali. Then, you will be left with just 2-3 days out of which 1 day is required for acclimatization and permits. So, you have just 1-2 days and I don’t see it that worth. Can you add more days?

      • Thank you Dheeraj for your prompt reply. I can think of extending number of days. It will be grateful of you if you can give me an itinerary covering leh, khardung la, nubra valley, pangong lake, magnetic hill and other places as you would like to suggest. Thanks once again.

        Please also let me know about the availability of Bikes, Rental and deposit requirement.

        • Hi Somesh,

          If possible, Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

          You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

          You can pick the part which you want. Else, in case you interested just in Manali – Leh, please let me know and I will suggest that itinerary accordingly.


        • Hey Dheeraj Thanks a ton for your reply. I have given a thought to the routes suggested by you and it will be really amazing following that itinerary as I can manage 13-15days.
          The difficulty that I am facing is that I will be hiring bike for the trip. So now if I start from Srinagar then I will hire bike from Srinagar and I will have to end my journey at Srinagar to return the bike.
          I wish to cover Lumayuru(Magnetic Hill)-Lumayuru (Lunar Landscapes)-Leh-Nubra Valley-Khardung La-Diskit-Hunder-Panamik-Tso Pangong-Tso Moriri and anything more if possible in 13-15days. I request you to suggest an itinerary which can cover the places mentioned above(or something less,if thts the only way out)and even address my limitation of returning bike.

          Please also provide a total cost estimate including bike rentals for the itinerary that you would like to propose.
          I thank you once again for being a great help.

        • Hello Somesh,

          There are no bike rentals available in Srinagar. Better taxi shared taxis or taxis and then go to Leh and hire bike from there. Then complete the journey, pay for one way rental of bike and drop bike at Manali. You will be able to cover all mentioned places in suggested itinerary.


  25. Hi Dheeraj,
    First of all let me thank you for the amazing work that you are doing here. It’s really fascinating to read through our blogs. It’s so much helpful for people like us.
    Me and around 4-5 of my friends are planning to visit LAdakh during last week of May. Due to time constraints we cannot spare more than 12 days. But we also wish to cover as much as we can. So I used your suggested itinerary for 14 days, and did some edits on that. Would you kindly check if this looks feasible to you.
    May24 (Sat) – Flight to Srinagar from Delhi -> Drive to Kargil via Sonamarg, Zozi La, Drass -> Overnite stay at Kargil
    May25 (Sun) – Kargil ->Lamayuru -> Leh -> Overnite stay at Leh
    May26(Mon) – Leh local sightseeing+Inner Line permit -> Overnite stay at Leh
    May27 (Tue) – Leh to Nubra Valley via Khardung La, Diskit, Hunder -> Overnite stay at Hunder/Diskit
    May28 (Wed) – Nubra valley to Pangong Tso via Wari La – Shakti – Chang La – Tangste – Lukung – Spangmik route. Overnite stay at Pangong.
    May29(Thu) – Pangong to Leh via either Thicksey monastery or Shey palace -> Overnite stay at Leh
    May30(Fri) – Rest day at Leh -> Overnite stay at Leh
    May31(Sat) – Leh to Tso Moriri via Chumathang covering Karzok Monastery -> Overnite stay at Tso Moriri
    Jun1(Sun) – Tso Moriri -> Tso Kar -> Debring (Manali-Leh Highway starts) -> Moore Plains -> Pang -> Sarchu -> Overnite stay at Sarchu
    Jun2(Mon) – Sarchu -> Baralacha La -> Keylong -> Rohtang Pass -> Manali -> Overnite stay at Manali
    Jun3(Tue) – Manali to Delhi -> Reach Delhi on Wednesday morning

    My questions are:
    1) Is it possible to reach Kargil on the day we reach Srinagar, if we take an early morning flight?
    2) Do you think it’s feasible to reach Pangong from Nubra valley only instead of coming back to Leh? (this will save us a day)
    3)How do you think the road condition will be in end May? I followed your advice to start from Srinagar and exit from Manali. But do you think the Srinagar-Leh highway will be open in last week of May? Also, what about the Manali route? Any ideas on generally what time the road opens?
    Thanks a lot in advance for your time.

    • Hello Arko,

      Thanks alot. Please find my replies below:

      1) If you take the early morning flight to Srinagar, then you can start towards Kargil the same day. It takes about 8 Hrs, so better you leave by 9-10 AM from Srinagar.

      2) Better not use the direct route to Pangong Tso from Nubra Valley that early in the season as snow presence might not open Wari La by that time and Syok route is too much risky to take on. It is better to come back to Leh and start for Pangong Tso the next day and use the rest day to come back from Pangong Tso.

      3) Road conditions will be rough and muddy-slushy at passes especially due to the presence of snow. Rest manageable. Srinagar – Leh highway will highly likely open by that time of the year and Manali – Leh Highway might just open at that time when you plan to exit by light vehicles and you will see tons of snow around there.

      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Many thanks for the prompt reply.
        Do you happen to know the exact dates the roads were opened for the tourists in the last few years?
        And also, what do you exactly mean by ‘light vehicle’? We were thinking our private car like xylo or innova. Does that count among the light vehicle?

        • Arko, there are no exact dates. Srinagar – Leh Highway for the last two years has opened by third week of April and Manali Leh Highway by last week of May. It all depends upon the snow stock up there. Light vehicles means taxis. No Buses and Truck. Xylo does come in taxi.



      • MOHIT K SHARMA on


        • Hello Mohit,

          You have 9-10 days in hand and you are planning to travel from Srinagar to Leh and then flying out of Leh. You can follow the following itinerary in that case:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Srinagar
          — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
          — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          Day 2 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 3 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh Local Sightseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 6 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 7 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

          Day 8 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 9 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
          — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
          — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 10 | Fly out of Leh

          dheeraj Sharma



  28. Pingback: Prologue, Itinerary & Road Updates | Ladakh Mega Meet - DeViL on WheeLs




    • Have a great trip Dr. Vivek. Thanks for the appreciations, such words, specially the time taken out to write them, really adds fuel many a times. I hope you have downloaded the updated permit forms and application letter from the above link. Feel free to post any queries in DoW Community or here in the blog as comments for your ladakh trip 🙂

      Dheeraj Sharma

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