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May 2018 – Trip to Spiti


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    Snehamayee on #65450

    Hi
    After asking here at DoW – we finally did the Spiti circuit last week and came back only yesterday…
    This trip was planned after reading a lot on DoW .. so thank you Dheeraj and Others

    24 May – Mumbai to Delhi with 6 PM Indigo flight and then move on to Chandigarh via train
    25 May– Reached Chandigarh at 8 AM , started for Kalpa , broke the journey in between at Jhakdi. Stayed at hotel Mahesh, Its an adequate stay for one night
    26 May– Jhakdi to Tabo via a quick stop at Nako. Stayed at hotel Snow lion – a good hotel with a nice view
    27 May– Tabo to Pin Valley , stayed at Gulling with Tandup Homestay – I heartily recommend the homestay.
    28 May– stayed at pin valley – visited the river bed with Mr Tandups 4X4 , took ride upto Mudh and the a drive up in the pin valley national park to see the formations
    29 May– went to Kaza via Damul – enjoyed excellent vistas – stayed in kaza
    30 May– went to hikkim/Langza and then back to Kaza
    31 May– went from Kaza to Chandratal via Key-kibber- chicham bridge – losar- kunzum pass and then chandrtal …. Stayed at Parasol camps – again will recommend heartily. But in hindsight , I would have reduced a day Kaza and then stopped at losar. It was a long drive that day
    1 June – Chandratal to Manali via Rohtang – we stayed in Naggar and wasted 3-4 hours in traffic – in hind sight I would have stayed at Solnag Valley

    2 June – relaxed in Manali – did the para gliding etc with my Kid
    3 June – Moved to Kullu and post a quick river rafting session – moved to Chandigarh – another long day on hind sight I would have started back on 2nd June and then stayed in Mandi on 2nd night
    4 June – Took the flight back from Chandigarh to Mumbai


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    Vinod Raman on #65455

    Glad to know that you had a nice trip Snehamayee.. would be happy to listen to your story and see your pictures. Please post them in the travel tale section


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    Dheeraj Sharma on #65489

    Welcome back, wonderful to know that you had a nice trip to Spiti Valley and that drive would have been wonderful from Pin Valley to Demul. do treat us with some pictures if possible 🙂

    Also, do you have the pictures and contact details of Tandup Homestay at Gulling?


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    Snehamayee on #65512

    Yes Dheeraj and Vinod
    Will work on a travel update and share as soon as the work pressure becomes a bit manageable.Please bear with me till then. Will share details for tandup homestay also

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    Dheeraj Sharma on #65640

    No problems, please take your time 🙂


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    Snehamayee on #66350

    Planning and Prep
    It all started with our trip to Himachal in 2014 diwali … We did a family trip to Kinnaur with both sets of parents and our then 8 year old. The trip was really slow paced and we did the standard Kinnaur circuit (shimla-Kalpa-Sangla and back via Naldera ). This was the trip that hooked us to Himachal….

    Post that just 3 of us came back to Himachal in 2016 March and did the same circuit again 🙂 This time we just did a day trip to Nako … This time the inevitable happened.. We were now committed to Himalayas 🙂 From that day, I was pining to do Spiti .. every few months I would pore over the travel blogs and trip reports … But life intervened and 2017 went dry..we did other vacations but no trip to himachal ..:(

    In 2018 both me and my husband(Amit ) were determined to make Spiti happen. We kept on talking .. talking .. Given the vacation calendar of our now 11 year old – we had to be back in Mumbai by June first week … Many including Mukesh bhai ( Apple pie Kaza) and the DoW /Indiamike experts kept on telling that May last week would make Chandratal difficult. We then stretched our calendars a bit and decided to book our travel from 25 May till 4 June .
    Booked the air tickets for Mumbai -Chandigarh on 25 Morning and for Chandigarh -Mumbai on 4 June. We decided to keep the travel plans loose and kept Jalori circuit as a back up.

    Now began the wait …. News kept coming that this year the snow is less and we may indeed be lucky to visit Chandratal … We kept the fingers crossed… Again came the news of late snow in Upper himachal …we started looking for Jalori Circuits… and then came a news that made us think that we will not make this trip at all …. We came to know that Chandigarh airport was closed for runway renovation… Again back to level zero .. planning starts again.. Uttaranchal was being discussed but my heart was set upon spiti.

    Bless his heart, Amit put his brain to work and started working out options. Airline was ready to transfer our ticket to Delhi but that added 3-4 hours travel to our first day ….After a lot deliberation we decided to reach Delhi on the night before and then start from Delhi in the morning. With the dates now frozen, we started talking with Mukesh bhai for the plan.. After a lot of back and forth we decided to take the overnight train from Delhi to Chandigarh in the same night and reach Chandigarh early 25 Morning. This gave a chance to catch up with sleep in the train as 24 was working day for both of us .

    Now the itinerary was
    Day 0 – 24 May 2018 (Thursday) – Fly to Delhi in night , rush to train for Chandigarh
    Day 1 – 25 May 2018 (Friday ) – Try and reach Jhakdi ,
    Day 2 – 26 May 2018(saturday) – Jhakdi – Nako-Gue mummy & then to Tabo
    Day 3 – 27 May 2018 (sunday) – Tabo to Gulling(near Mud) in Pin Valley
    Day 4 – 28 May 2018(Monday) – Stay At Gulling
    Day 5 – 29 May 2018 (Tuesday) Gulling to Kaza
    Day 6 – 30 May 2018 (Wednesday) – Stay at Kaza
    Day 7 – 31 May 2018 (Thursday) – Kaza to Chandratal
    Day 8 – 1 June 2018 (Friday) Chandratal to Manali
    Day 9 – 2 June 2018 (Saturday) Stay at Manali
    Day 10- 3 June 2018 (Sunday) Manali to Chandigarh
    Day 11 – 4 June 2018 (Monday) Fly back to Mumbai

    Now that the plan was put in place , we were more relaxed and looking forward to the trip. Mukesh bhai had helped us book hotels and book an innova for the trip duration . The day before the flight he shared the number of driver and we were all set…..

    For planning purposes we used map by Rajiv from yellowpeaks. His is another brilliant site for Spiti.
    I have give the map here for reference. Only change in that map is that Chicham bridge is now complete and we used that to reach Chandratal
    I have marked the chicham bridge here

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    Snehamayee on #66351
      Day 0 – Mumbai-Delhi and Onwards to Chandigarh

    24 may dawned and everybody was excited …. But the bags were not packed and we both had to work … alas such is the life…. We crammed our luggage in morning and focussed on the last day of work before the glorious vacation.. That whole day working was a challenge .. but had to be done … Just before we were supposed to get in the cab for airport – I tried to weigh our bags .That seemingly simple task brought on an acidity attack… Bags were grossly overweight!! .. Again, a mad rush to readjust the bags and stuffing things randomly still one bas was overweight. With no time left we decided to rely upon airline kindness and left for the airport.

    As usual the roads were crowded but there was no traffic jam …. We reached airport with ample time and went upto the airline counters with fingers crossed … But today was our lucky day.. The lady at counter weighed the luggage of 3 passengers together. When even that was also exceeding the total weight limit, we thought we would have to carry some things with us as carry on luggage. But the graceful lady agreed to allow the luggage as-is since we were just a little bit over the limit … With a thankful smile, we proceeded to the flight.

    Without any further ado , we boarded flight and landed in Delhi at about 11:30 .. Rushed to railway station just to find that the train was late ..albeit only by an hour .. After a tiring wait at Delhi station the train arrived .. We managed to get in …Put up the berths and set the alarm and then settled down to try and dream about the vacation that had just begun


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    Snehamayee on #66355

    Day 1 – Reaching Jhakdi

      Today was the first official day of vacation … The train reached Chandigarh around 7 AM. The driver monu was there smiling and ontime. The innova was in good condition .. so with this auspicious beginning we started our vacation …

      First order of the day was breakfast and freshening up… Asked Monu to find a suitable place… Accordingly he stopped at a resort on the way. Though slightly expensive it was absolutely clean and comfortable. Had a brilliant breakfast and the set on the way to Shimla..
      Monu Bhai is originally from Shimla and he kept on pointing interesting sights. One fear he had was traffic since our president was in Shimla the same day … Fortunately the vacation gods were smiling on us and we escaped shimla with out too much of traffic

      Post shimla we stopped enroute and had a full lunch – it was already getting a little cooler and the landscape was now changing to lush green

      Now the journey started towards Narkanda – since we did Hatu peak in 2014 we did not plan to stop at Narkanda but were just enjoying views(and snatches of sleep ) from our car …
      Post Narkanda we started to get down and excitement started … we were about to meet a longtime friend …. We came down to ground level and there she was ..our first sighting of the mighty Sutlaj….


      By now it was getting evening and we were getting tired …we remembered hotel Mahesh and planned to look for it. After about 30 minutes we did come across a hotel Mahesh and it was the same one we had stayed in March 16 … But once we got in they told us about another hotel Mahesh the same family was opening .. this new hotel was not 100% ready yet but it was further 30-45 minutes and then we came across the new hotel Mahesh …

      Its a “Just OK OK” hotel but it offered clean (relatively) rooms with working AC and it did the job as a night stop…

      After a quick dinner we were off to bed .. now looking forward to DevBhoomi Kinnaur….

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    Snehamayee on #66363

    Day 2 – Jhakdi – Nako-Giu-Tabo

      Next day we woke up had a brilliant breakfast of parathas and bread butter .. we started off … Todays Target was to cover Nako , the Giu Mummy and then move on to Tabo ….

      We were now getting prepared for losing connectivity and suddenly remembered , we do not have phone number of the hotel we have booked “hotel snow leopard” Tabo.. A frantic call to Aman (apple pie Kalpa/Sangla) – we were assured that “Tabo is a small place” ….. So with that assurance we started off
      Now the first photo -opportunity came very early in the morning. This is the picture we have seen in a multiple Kinnaur travel updates and we too could not resist a click….

      The landscape was now slowly changing again and from a lush green of shimla we were seeing

      At powari, the road branched off to Kalpa. We had already been to Kalpa twice so we skipped Kalpa and kept along the river. Soon we came to a place called
      By lunch we were at a pretty place called spillow… The place was very tiny but the lunch was fabulous .. My daughter (Surabhi) had her first taste of Momos and now Momos are her favourite snack for life 😉
      After lunch the journey continued , the vista was becoming more and more brown….we now reached a place called Khab .. This is a special place as Spiti comes and meets the Sutlej.
      You can really see the brown of Sutlej and Grey of Spiti very clearly ..Its a magical spot and we spent some time here

      Now the road was climbing up and weather was getting cooler. While we were all fine, my daughter got a very mild case of headache. We had a quick break at a tea shop near Nako and decided to skip Nako lake as we had seen it last time. Here we met a family who was telling all scary stories about Chandratal and that gave a moment of doubt to my husband but we decided to stick to our plans and boy we are really glad that we did so because Chandratal is simply awesome. But thats for the upcoming posts. For this day our next stop was the Geu Mummy
      Till now the roads were more or less good tarred roads. At malling we had a brief introduction to things coming but it was a tiny patch we continued at Sumdo , we took the diversion for Geu… Its a small diversion and the road is beautiful ….

      The mummy is of a 45 year old lama. This mummy was found in one of the eight stupas in the village which were severely damaged after the 1975 earthquake in this region. There is no preservative used on the mummy, it is naturally preserved.The freezing weather conditions in Geu seems to be one of the many reasons for this natural mummification. Though there is a bit of a concern now since it is showing signs of deterioration. The villagers want the mummy to be preserved not only because it will it bring in many tourists, the villagers worship the lama and they would like to safeguard and preserve the mummy.

      There is a new temple that is built for the mummy; the mummy will soon be shifted to the new temple. Hopefully, the mummy will stay well-preserved for many more centuries.

      Now evening was setting and we ask the driver to take us to Tabo but of course we could resist a couple more photo breaks

      As we came near to tabo village – we understood what Aman had meant about the place being small .. It was only a small cluster of 2-3 hotels nearby the monastery. The hotel appeared to peaceful and beautiful but more detailed review had to wait till next morning
      We stayed in hotel snow leopard. The rooms were large enough for 3 of us with running hot water.
      After a hot dinner and warm bath we were just ready for a deep sleep !!

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    Snehamayee on #66403

    Day 3 From Tabo to Pin Valley

      After a refreshing sleep, we woke up to a brilliant view of from the hotel. This hotel is surrounded by mountains all around…

      Post a hot breakfast we started off to Gulling valley via Dhankar monestary
      Since most of the big driving was done, the next few days were going to be light drives and amazing views. We were all excited to really start enjoying spiti especially since weather was also balmy, not too cold …. Spiti did not keep us waiting…the scene started unfolding almost immediately and we had to stop for a photo op .. one of the many today. One thing about Spiti to keep in mind – its a journey that matters not the destination

      The road was very good and we did not feel the stress of journey as we took many many photo breaks. Soon we reached the dhankar monastery. The monastery is quite nice but like usual the views are simply stunning

      After the beautiful views at Dhankar we started going down a little .. we were thrilled at the scenes we had taken in and just chatting among ourselves when we realized that, first time in this trip , we were going absolutely next to river. Now the river was at our level where we could touch if we wanted to! Please meet the majestic Spiti … Her Blue water is mesmerizing

      Now we were going along with Spiti valley for a while … In few miles we came across a bridge that took us to the other side where another beauty was waiting for us .. we met the Pin river who was going to be our friend for next 2 days

      Few kilometers alongside Pin rivers and we reached Tandup home stay – where we were put up for 2 nights… Post Amans suggestion , I had read up a lot on net and came across the “yello peaks” site for Spiti . The homestay looked very promising and I was excited to stay in a place which was nearly on the river bank…As soon as we reached, I found that the place had even better views than I imagined

      Post the lunch , our host Mr Tandup took us down in his 4X4 to the river bed. It was incredible to be so close to the river and the wind was howling. Entire atmosphere was beyond words

      We decided to take a walk after playing in the river for some time (grrrrrr the water was cold!!!!). We found the village to be very charming with little rivulets running , small patches of pea farms and snow capped mountains everywhere. It was an idyllic scene which reminded me of our trip 8-10 years back to a small swiss village

      After our walk we came down to room and spent the evening in our vacation special manner – with a plate of pakoda and a deck of cards.. A visit to Mud village and ride in the Pin national park was on cards for the next day

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    Vinod Raman on #66515

    thats a wonderful start Snehamayee. look forward to more 🙂


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    Snehamayee on #66708

    Day 3 From Tabo to Pin Valley
    After a refreshing sleep, we woke up to a brilliant view of from the hotel. This hotel is surrounded by mountains all around…


    The weather and the view was so nice that we decided to take a stroll to the Monastery. There are 2 monasteries a new one and an old one
    Old one is very interesting but no photos are allowed. Here are a few clicks of the new one


    Post a hot breakfast we started off to Gulling valley via Dhankar monestary
    Since most of the big driving was done, the next few days were going to be light drives and amazing views. We were all excited to really start enjoying spiti especially since weather was also balmy, not too cold …. Spiti did not keep us waiting…the scene started unfolding almost immediately and we had to stop for a photo op .. one of the many today. One thing about Spiti to keep in mind – its a journey that matters not the destination

    The road was very good and we did not feel the stress of journey as we took many many photo breaks. Soon we reached the dhankar monastery. The monastery is quite nice but like usual the views are simply stunning

    After the beautiful views at Dhankar we started going down a little .. we were thrilled at the scenes we had taken in and just chatting among ourselves when we realized that, first time in this trip , we were going absolutely next to river. Now the river was at our level where we could touch if we wanted to! Please meet the majestic Spiti … Her Blue water is mesmerizing

    Now we were going along with Spiti valley for a while … In few miles we came across a bridge that took us to the other side where another beauty was waiting for us .. we met the Pin river who was going to be our friend for next 2 days

    Few kilometers alongside Pin rivers and we reached Tandup home stay – where we were put up for 2 nights… Post Amans suggestion , I had read up a lot on net and came across the “yello peaks” site for Spiti . The homestay looked very promising and I was excited to stay in a place which was nearly on the river bank…As soon as we reached, I found that the place had even better views than I imagined

    Post the lunch , our host Mr Tandup took us down in his 4X4 to the river bed. It was incredible to be so close to the river and the wind was howling. Entire atmosphere was beyond words

    We decided to take a walk after playing in the river for some time (grrrrrr the water was cold!!!!). We found the village to be very charming with little rivulets running , small patches of pea farms and snow capped mountains everywhere. It was an idyllic scene which reminded me of our trip 8-10 years back to a small swiss village

    After our walk we came down to room and spent the evening in our vacation special manner – with a plate of pakoda and a deck of cards.. A visit to Mud village and ride in the Pin national park was on cards for the next day

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    Snehamayee on #66709

    Day 3 From Tabo to Pin Valley
    After a refreshing sleep, we woke up to a brilliant view of from the hotel. This hotel is surrounded by mountains all around…

    Post a hot breakfast we started off to Gulling valley via Dhankar monestary
    Since most of the big driving was done, the next few days were going to be light drives and amazing views. We were all excited to really start enjoying spiti especially since weather was also balmy, not too cold …. Spiti did not keep us waiting…the scene started unfolding almost immediately and we had to stop for a photo op .. one of the many today. One thing about Spiti to keep in mind – its a journey that matters not the destination

    The road was very good and we did not feel the stress of journey as we took many many photo breaks. Soon we reached the dhankar monastery. The monastery is quite nice but like usual the views are simply stunning

    After the beautiful views at Dhankar we started going down a little .. we were thrilled at the scenes we had taken in and just chatting among ourselves when we realized that, first time in this trip , we were going absolutely next to river. Now the river was at our level where we could touch if we wanted to! Please meet the majestic Spiti … Her Blue water is mesmerizing

    Now we were going along with Spiti valley for a while … In few miles we came across a bridge that took us to the other side where another beauty was waiting for us .. we met the Pin river who was going to be our friend for next 2 days

    Few kilometers alongside Pin rivers and we reached Tandup home stay – where we were put up for 2 nights… Post Amans suggestion , I had read up a lot on net and came across the “yello peaks” site for Spiti . The homestay looked very promising and I was excited to stay in a place which was nearly on the river bank…As soon as we reached, I found that the place had even better views than I imagined

    Post the lunch , our host Mr Tandup took us down in his 4X4 to the river bed. It was incredible to be so close to the river and the wind was howling. Entire atmosphere was beyond words

    We decided to take a walk after playing in the river for some time (grrrrrr the water was cold!!!!). We found the village to be very charming with little rivulets running , small patches of pea farms and snow capped mountains everywhere. It was an idyllic scene which reminded me of our trip 8-10 years back to a small swiss village

    After our walk we came down to room and spent the evening in our vacation special manner – with a plate of pakoda and a deck of cards.. A visit to Mud village and ride in the Pin national park was on cards for the next day


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    Snehamayee on #66710

    Day 3 – Tabo To Gulling Via Dhankar
    After a refreshing sleep, we woke up to a brilliant view of from the hotel. This hotel is surrounded by mountains all around…

    Post a hot breakfast we started off to Gulling valley via Dhankar monestary
    Since most of the big driving was done, the next few days were going to be light drives and amazing views. We were all excited to really start enjoying spiti especially since weather was also balmy, not too cold …. Spiti did not keep us waiting…the scene started unfolding almost immediately and we had to stop for a photo op .. one of the many today. One thing about Spiti to keep in mind – its a journey that matters not the destination

    The road was very good and we did not feel the stress of journey as we took many many photo breaks. Soon we reached the dhankar monastery. The monastery is quite nice but like usual the views are simply stunning

    After the beautiful views at Dhankar we started going down a little .. we were thrilled at the scenes we had taken in and just chatting among ourselves when we realized that, first time in this trip , we were going absolutely next to river. Now the river was at our level where we could touch if we wanted to! Please meet the majestic Spiti … Her Blue water is mesmerizing

    Now we were going along with Spiti valley for a while … In few miles we came across a bridge that took us to the other side where another beauty was waiting for us .. we met the Pin river who was going to be our friend for next 2 days

    Few kilometers alongside Pin rivers and we reached Tandup home stay – where we were put up for 2 nights… Post Amans suggestion , I had read up a lot on net and came across the “yello peaks” site for Spiti . The homestay looked very promising and I was excited to stay in a place which was nearly on the river bank…As soon as we reached, I found that the place had even better views than I imagined

    Post the lunch , our host Mr Tandup took us down in his 4X4 to the river bed. It was incredible to be so close to the river and the wind was howling. Entire atmosphere was beyond words

    We decided to take a walk after playing in the river for some time (grrrrrr the water was cold!!!!). We found the village to be very charming with little rivulets running , small patches of pea farms and snow capped mountains everywhere. It was an idyllic scene which reminded me of our trip 8-10 years back to a small swiss village

    After our walk we came down to room and spent the evening in our vacation special manner – with a plate of pakoda and a deck of cards.. A visit to Mud village and ride in the Pin national park was on cards for the next day

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    Snehamayee on #66713

    After a refreshing sleep, we woke up to a brilliant view of from the hotel. This hotel is surrounded by mountains all around…

    Post a hot breakfast we started off to Gulling valley via Dhankar monestary
    Since most of the big driving was done, the next few days were going to be light drives and amazing views. We were all excited to really start enjoying spiti especially since weather was also balmy, not too cold …. Spiti did not keep us waiting…the scene started unfolding almost immediately and we had to stop for a photo op .. one of the many today. One thing about Spiti to keep in mind – its a journey that matters not the destination

    The road was very good and we did not feel the stress of journey as we took many many photo breaks. Soon we reached the dhankar monastery. The monastery is quite nice but like usual the views are simply stunning

    After the beautiful views at Dhankar we started going down a little .. we were thrilled at the scenes we had taken in and just chatting among ourselves when we realized that, first time in this trip , we were going absolutely next to river. Now the river was at our level where we could touch if we wanted to! Please meet the majestic Spiti … Her Blue water is mesmerizing

    Now we were going along with Spiti valley for a while … In few miles we came across a bridge that took us to the other side where another beauty was waiting for us .. we met the Pin river who was going to be our friend for next 2 days

    Few kilometers alongside Pin rivers and we reached Tandup home stay – where we were put up for 2 nights… Post Amans suggestion , I had read up a lot on net and came across the “yello peaks” site for Spiti . The homestay looked very promising and I was excited to stay in a place which was nearly on the river bank…As soon as we reached, I found that the place had even better views than I imagined

    Post the lunch , our host Mr Tandup took us down in his 4X4 to the river bed. It was incredible to be so close to the river and the wind was howling. Entire atmosphere was beyond words

    We decided to take a walk after playing in the river for some time (grrrrrr the water was cold!!!!). We found the village to be very charming with little rivulets running , small patches of pea farms and snow capped mountains everywhere. It was an idyllic scene which reminded me of our trip 8-10 years back to a small swiss village

    After our walk we came down to room and spent the evening in our vacation special manner – with a plate of pakoda and a deck of cards.. A visit to Mud village and ride in the Pin national park was on cards for the next day

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