White Spiti Valley in March – Itinerary, Road Conditions & Updates

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I always had dreamed of experiencing White Spiti Valley in pristine white colors of snow with white river beds midst its beautiful wide valleys. Finally, last week, I did get a chance to realize this dream of mine as I went on a trip to White Spiti Valley buried under carpet of snow all over. I already knew that most of the sightseeing places within Spiti Valley will be closed, whatever open would be bonus for me, food/stay will be hard to come by or very basic availability and no doubt that living up there under (–)15 degree Celsius with harsh conditions would not be easy piece of cake.

White Spiti Valley – Kaza under Snow
White Spiti Valley - Kaza under Snow

Well, the conditions lived up to the expectations, harsh and unforgiving but vistas under white snow carpet in Spiti Valley were WORTH the pain we went through… It was not just the harsh conditions of winters BUT above all, the road conditions over Hindustan – Tibet Highway, especially in Kinnaur Valley were no less than a Death Highway… Shooting Stones, Massive Landslides, Knee Deep Slush, few Gushing Water Crossings, Car Wreckage ON and OFF the roads… and WHAT NOT… It was one hell of an adventure drive to Spiti Valley from Kinnaur Valley over NH-22 or Hindustan – Tibet Highway, at this time of the year when snow melts and bring those massive glacier down 🙂 … Also, just in case you are interested to know more about the differences between Hindustan – Tibet Road & NH – 22, I will suggest that you do read one of my previous article: Hindustan – Tibet Road or Road to Spiti Valley | An Introduction

Though I am going to write a detailed Travel Tale and reviews of the guest houses I stayed, but just before that would like to share what itinerary I followed, route I took and the updates on road conditions for reaching these places.

The White Carpet of Snow in Spiti Valley…

Itinerary for my Kinnaur – Spiti Valley Trip in March

Well, I had 9 days in hand for my White Spiti Valley trip including couple of buffer days and I followed the itinerary as below:

  • Day 1: Started the drive from Delhi – Ambala – Zirakpur – Solan – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur – Jeori. Stayed at PWD Rest House at Jeori.
  • Day 2: Resumed the tough drive from Jeori to go through Bhawanagar – Tapri- Powari – Akpa – Puh – Khab – Nako Stayed at IPH Guest House at Nako.
  • Day 3: Completed the final leg of the drive to Spiti Valley from Nako – Sumdo – TaboKaza In between, checked out Nako Lake in the morning and Tabo Monastery on the move to Kaza. Stayed with dear friend Tsering at Sakya Abode / Snow Lion
  • Day 4: Rest Day at Kaza. Went on to explore Ki – Kibber and then drove back to Attargoo, diversion to Pin Valley for taking some pictures of the valley.
  • Day 5: Went on to explore Lingti Valley that is Lallung – Rama Villages and then in the evening went on to explore Dhangkar Monastery overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin Rivers
  • Day 6: Nothing was stuck in Kaza owing to snowfall and deadly road conditions
  • Day 7: Nothing was stuck in Kaza owing to snowfall and deadly road conditions
  • Day 8: Weather cleared a bit, raising the hopes of getting out of Spiti Valley and Kinnaur Valley, especially. Started early in the morning, went on through Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Khab – Puh – Powari – Jeori. We had to stop near Powari at Pangi Nalla as there was a piece of road that had sunken. A new road was cut through the mountain to pass us through. Then, struggle with knee deep slush and finally, reached Jeori to stay at the same PWD Rest House.
  • Day 9: Completed the final part of the trip from Jeori – Rampur – Narkanda – Shimla – Solan – Zirakpur – Ambala – Delhi, sweet home.

Over all it was quite a thrilling experience with every day coming with a new kind of experience and snow galore over there in Spiti Valley in March 🙂 …

Road Conditions for Delhi – Shimla – Kinnaur Valley – Spiti Valley

Following is the breakdown of road conditions for the trip:

  • Delhi – Ambala – Zirakpur – Solan – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur – Jeori: Excellent, smooth sailing.
  • Jeori – Tranda – Bhawanagar: Mostly good roads with some patches of poor ones.
  • Bhawanagar – Wangtoo – Karcham – Shongtong – Powari: Poor roads at most places with deep slush stretches and bumpy rides.
  • Powari – Pangi Nalla – Ribba – Akpa: Horrible roads, almost like a death way with many landslide and shooting stones points. Near Ribba road was sinking at couple of places. Pangi Nall, just ahead of Powari was extremely horrible.
  • Akpa – Jangi – Tinku Nalla – Spillow – Puh – Khab: Mix of Average and Poor roads with few landslide points.
  • Khab – Ka Loops – Nako: Good roads mostly.
  • Nako  – Malling – Chango – Shialkhar – Sumdo: Nako – Malling was bad with a landslide point just before malling. After Malling to Shialkhar it is mix of good and average. After Shialkhar to Sumdo, mix of poor and very poor with a good KM stretch of Shooting Stones when nearing Sumdo.
  • Sumdo – Hurling – Tabo: Mix of average and good roads.
  • Tabo – Shichiling – Lingti – Atargoo – Kaza: Tabo to Shichiling was very scary and horrible with about 6-7 KMs of a stretch where we had constant Shooting Stones. In later half of day, this part if very dangerous and especially when it is snow melting season. From Lingti to Atargoo to Kaza is a mix of average and bad roads.
  • Kaza – Ki – Kibber: Mostly good roads barring only few stretches. Very scenic too.
  • Lingti – Rama – Lallung: Lingti to Lallung is a dirt track and presence of snow at many places made some stretches bad otherwise average road conditions much like any other dirt track.
  • Shichiling – Dhangkar Monastery: Good roads mostly being well tarred.
Road Conditions in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley
Road Conditions in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley

Phone Signals on Road to Spiti Valley with Data Connectivity

I was carrying Airtel Postpaid, BSNL Postpaid and Vodafone Postpaid and following was the signal status for all three of them:

  • All three were working mostly through the route Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Jeori – Bhawanagar – Karcham – Powari – Akpa – Spillow
  • Both Airtel and Vodafone were dead just near Spillow and ONLY BSNL worked after Spillow till Kaza
  • After Powari till Spillow via Akpa, the signals of both Airtel and Vodafone were going ON/OFF and after Spillow as said above, completely gone.
  • BSNL was also active in Ki and Kibber as well along with GPRS Data
  • Data Connectivity was always available wherever the signals were present though it was mostly 2G in the first half and towards the remote places of Kinnaur and Spiti, the data was just merely GPRS/EDGE based.

Other Important Updates for Spiti Valley Trip

  • Fuel pump at Powari has been shutdown I think and the new petrol pump at Tapri should be considered for refuelling before going towards Spiti Valley where Kaza will be the next petrol pump then. Otherwise, if you miss Tapri, you can go towards Peo as diversion after Powari, just in case you are short on fuel.
  • There is SBI ATM in Kaza. The Bank has also installed POS as well just in case of emergency and if you have SBI Cards, then you can debit Rs 1000 at a time from that POS.

Toll Amounts on the Route

  • Panipat Toll Plaza: Rs 30
  • Karnal Toll Plaza: Rs 105
  • Ambala Toll Plaza: Rs 34
  • Himalayan Expressway Toll Plaza: Rs 26
  • Green Tax Barrier at Himachal Pradesh border: Rs 60

I will start sharing the detailed Travel Tale of this White Spiti Valley Trip, the reviews of the properties I stayed and places at which I ate food, very soon 🙂

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You can call me an Avid Traveler, a Day - Night Dreamer and a Passionate Lover of Himalayas who has a high zest for driving whilst exploring new places in Himalayas & sharing back those Himalayan Travel experiences with the other fellow Travelers... I am in love with Spreading Smiles in Himalayas through DoW Causes & currently enjoying life as Happy Traveling Soul at DoW Community. You can read more about me in detail at the link here ...

174 Comments

  1. Arijit Ghosh on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are driving from Bangalore to somewhere in the North starting April 30. Our plans of doing Delhi-Patnitop-Sonmarg-Leh is canceled because I heard that road is closed due to snowfall. So we want to do Spiti, if possible. Our dates are: May 3 to May 16 (Delhi to Delhi). Can be extended by a day or two in case there are landslides. How far can we go around May? If we can’t do the circuit (back via Manali), we can go as far as we can and come back. Can you help us with this?

    Thanks and regards,
    Arijit

    • Hello Arijit,

      Yes, Spiti Valley will be open form Kinnaur Valley route and you can come back from the same route. You will not be able to complete the circuit to Manali but you will be able to visit almost everything in Spiti Valley except Chandratal.

  2. It’s a well-written blog. I want to know the distance between spiti and kasol. I’ve heard lots about kasol and hence, I wish to visit the two places in the month of July.

    • Linsiya, it will take one very long day to reach Kaza from Kasol, other wise you can halt night at Solang Valley after Manali Or at Vashishth and then go to Kaza the next day. Keep 6-8 days at least fora trip to Spiti.

  3. Divjot Singh on

    Hello dheeraj.

    What if we take yamunagar-paonta sahib-chopal-narkanda route. Or paonta sahib-nerwa-narkanda route.

    What are the road conditions in that part of Himalayas?

  4. Hi Dheeraj,

    We are planning to drive to Spiti valley from Chandigarh in the first week of April. We have 7 days in hand and plan to take an SUV. Do you think the trip is doable at this time?

  5. HUNNY SINGH on

    yoo..supp Dheeraj
    First of all thanx alot for providing so much info,ya doing great job…
    Me and 2 of ma friends are planning to go spiti valley,we have RE CLASSIC 350 & PULSAR 200NS,i am from KURUKSHETRA & we have 5/6 days in hand …we gonna start on 25 March,2016 ….is there any rainfall problem…can you suggest about the route and wheather….

    • Hunny, The weather sites are showing rains in Kinnaur during that time of the March when you are planning the trip and with rains in Kinnaur, I will not advice you to make such a trip and 6 days will be very tight for Spiti Valley as a winter trip.

      • HUNNY SINGH on

        Hii Dheeraj,
        thnx for the advice bro….so i think we have to increase our days and may be dàte too…so when should we go coz we dont have time in April…ma Boss gonna kill me …and i am dying to go there … suggest me …

        Warm Regards
        Hunny

  6. Dear Dheeraj,

    We are planning to do entire circuit starting from Shimla on 14th June and ending at Manali on 24 June. Just wanted to know whether by this time road of Kunzum pass from Kaza to Manali would be open? Also would appreciate if you can give us past dates when kunzum pass has opened in June for last 3-4 years so accordingly we will get an idea and we can plan.

    Regards,
    Dharman Mehta

    • Dharman, there are high chances that roads this year due to lack of snow in Himalayas will be open at that time you are planning to travel between Kaza – Manali. You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Spiti Valley followed by many travellers including me at the link here for 10-11 days: Most Common Itinerary for Spiti Valley.

      • Chinmay Gandre on

        Hi Dheeraj,
        Awesome insights u have posted on this webpage. Really grateful to u for this.

        I am planning to travel on 19th March 2016 .. i am going to hire a self drive car from Delhi. I will be travelling with my wife.

        Plan is to reach till Kufri on 19th eve/late night.
        Then leave early morning and reach Kalpa before evening.

        I will rent a diesel swift.. so is Kalpa feasible..

        I also want to ask u if kalpa>kaza(overnight stay)>kalpa feasible in the next two/three days. I am thinking of traveling on a hrtc bus or a taxi/jeep for this part as taking a rented self drive swift to these areas seems risky ( i will keep swift at Kalpa).

        Warm Regards
        Chinmay Gandre

        • Kalpa can be done in a swift, there might be some tricky sections, so drive with care and caution. It is going to be very hectic and with small car much more as the speed will be low. With HRTC bus it will take about 10 hrs to reach Kaza from Kalpa and then again 7 AM you need to be back on 10 Hrs journey? Will advice make a trip when you have some time on hand, visit Chitkul instead.

        • Chinmay Gandre on

          Hi

          I traveled from Chandigarh to Narkanda to Kalpa and Kalpa to Sangla n back…. Awesome experience… Roads are in much better conditions than i though.. Till Wangtoo Roads were in fact in super good conditions.,.. n railing were there on the sides in most of the cases…. After Wangtoo.. Road is rough but not risky.. Just two roads were difficult for me.. Narkanda to Mount Hatu and from Kalpa To Roghi village as the fall is very steep with no railing n narrow road…
          Unfortunately due to lack of time didnt go to Kaza…

          Thanks

          Chinmay Gandre

        • Chinmay, thanks for sharing the road condtions in Kinnaur Valley. Glad to know that you had a wonderful experience. If possible, try and share your Himalayan experience with us at DoW – Himalayan Travel Community as Photo Tale or Travel Tale Or your reviews of the hotels/guest houses where you stayed or dhabhas/restaurants you ate food on your trip… All this might help others planning the similar trip too 🙂 🙂

  7. Hi Dheeraj,

    Spiti Valley – 18th Dec to 26th Dec 2015. Is this possible on my Swift ?

    I did Spiti in Oct last year. It was great. Not sure about December? Please suggest.

    Best Regards
    Dev

    • Hi Dev,

      this is not the right time for a trip to Spiti Valley unless you are OK with extreme harsh conditions of winters and cold beyond Kinnaur, OK with washrooms with no water, OK with very basic food and OK with very basic stay. On top of it, in case it snows and you are in Spiti, the chances of getting stuck for a couple days to couple of weeks is quite a possibility. Last year my friend went and was stuck there for almost two weeks. Though in december things willjust be harsh and chances of that much snowfall is less BUT you cannot discount it completely. So, take a wise risk only I will say 🙂

    • Sumit Batabyal on

      Dear Dheeraj,
      Sumit here. We are planning to travel to Kaza during 3rd week of February 2016. Need your advise . Please revert.
      Rgds,
      Sumit Batabyal

  8. gopinath reddy on

    Hi Dheeraj sharma,

    We r planing to stay @ batal in the coming week.
    can you please suggest me some hotel and provide its contact number.?

    Thank you

  9. Pingback: Kaza - Kunzum Pass - Chandratal - DoW Mega Meet 2014

  10. Thankx Dheeraj for the confirmation.

    SO is it suitbale to ride towards spiti tommrrow on Motorcycles???

    • Bhai lower hills are showing all rains throughout next week while Spiti Valley does not show much rains. So, you will surely face some hassles for sure in lower hills brother 🙁

    • ANUPAM, I had a word again up there in Spiti. Roads have been opened and cars have reached from both Manali side as well as Tabo side. The cloudburst occured couple of days back and now the roads are through plus water has also receded from the nallahs

    • Hi Dheeraj ,

      We are 8/10 boys going on trip with our bikes delhi – spiti vally .could you please suggest us 18sep -24sep is the right time to go there ..and what ol thing we should carry with us ..

  11. We have planned for a road trip from delhi to spiti valley via shimla-narkanda-sangla-tabo-kaza-batal-manali-shimla-delhi.
    Heard a news about cloudburst at spiti valley yesterday…
    Could you suggest about the road and weather condition about this route?
    is it safe to travel tomorrow towards spiti?

        • Anupam, yes, you are right bhai !! Just had a word in Spiti with one of the locals that last evening it happened near losar as water came gushing through on stream and has spoiled few houses too. Cars have not come today up there as per him but says should resume. Unable to get connected with someone in Losar.

  12. Hi DHEERAJ ,
    Thanks a lot for write up ,you are doing a great job
    I am planning to travel to spiti in august first week via manali nd i have 6 to 7 days .
    is it a good time to travel as i heard about bad road condition bz of rain nd landslide too ?
    I am a travel photographer and want to explore spiti , can you please help me plan my trip nd give me trip itinerary.
    What would be the best mode of travel from manali to kaza , nd if i want to explore spiti (only spiti )by cycle where can i get the cycle on rent ?
    thanks on advance

    • Manish, lower hills until you reach Spiti will have to suffer monsoon hassles for sure. You can try following plan in 6-7 days in hand:

      Day 1 : Reach Manali by overnight volvo of 28 and stay overnight at Solang Valley as preferred for acclimatization
      Day 2 : Manali / Solang – Kaza
      Day 3 : Kaza – Dhangkar – Tabo – Kaza OR Kaza – Langza – Komik – Hikkim – Kaza
      Day 4 : Kaza – Ki – Kibber – Chandratal
      Day 5 : Chandratal – Manali
      Day 6 : Chill around Manali and take evening Volvo
      Day 7 : Reach Delhi by overnight Volvo from Manali

  13. ivy kriste on

    Thank you for sharing your experiences in such a detailed way. you are really encouraging us to travel.

    • Gagan, Regarding being member or joining DoW, there is no specific criteria we define except: If you are aligned with DoW Vision and DoW Causes and of course you like the spirit of Adventure plus love Himalayas and travel up there, you can be an active member of the DoW community and participate at the link http://devilonwheels.com/india/ … It can be accessed over mobile app of all platforms too, on the move or while traveling, details of which you can see in the announcement section of the community in above link.

      We share all the information about Himalayan Travel, share each other experiences, help each other build travel plans for Himalayas up there only. We publish all meets including Delhi Meets for Travel Chats on Himalayas as well as Himalayan Mega Meet for DoW Causes that happens once a year, in the community only. All active members are present in community, share experiences, guide others and reviews hotels/eating joints of Himalayas so that we can build up more knowledge together by sharing with each other and helping each other out for travel to Himalayas.

      Please register there and start participating. Join us over Delhi Mini Meets if you around here, next is going to happen in June, check events section. Once a year we call a mega meet where we all travel to Himalayas together in a large group and execute various DoW Causes to spread smiles up there in Himalayas.

      More closely & actively you participate in the DoW Community, more it will make you feel to be part of DoW Community 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  14. Hi Dheeraj because of devilonwheels people are gaining so much knowledge about these offbeat locations. Your passion towards mountains is realy admiring.

    I would like to travel to kalpa with my wife and 4 year old daughter. I shall be oblidged to have your guidence.

    I will be traveling from June 9th 2105. Below is the plan

    Day 1 Shimla to Sarahan

    Day 2 Sarahan to Sangla

    Day 3 Sangla – Chitkul – Sangla

    Day 4 Sangla to Kalpa

    Day 5 Kalpa

    Day 6 Kalpa to Fagu

    Day 7 Fagu

    Day 8 Fagu to Kalka

    I will be renting a vehicle from shimla for 8 days, which vehicle do you suggest. ?

    Weather from 9th june to 15 june , is it a good time of the year to enjoy these places ?

    Traveling with 4 year old is ok ?

    • Ashish thanks for the kind words. Just that you should make Kalpa to Narkanda to shorten up. Fagu does not have much to offer, so stay at Narkanda and then move to Chail and finally to Fagu. Regarding vehicle you can get an Indica for yourself which will cost less as well. June is decent time to visit but all depends upon rains as at time June also gets rain.

  15. Sanjay Vaid on

    Dear Dheeraj,
    Finished the road trip from Delhi to Kaza and back last week ( 23rd to 27th March 2015). Humbled hugely as always by the Mighty Himalayas as well as the greatest road on earth for driving : the Hindustan-Tibet highway. This was a pure driving trip so we were prepared to be on the road for hours each day..enjoying sights never seen before till we reached pristine white Spiti valley. Thanks to you first because the whole thing started after reading your narration of the trip last year.
    Just some road updates and tips:
    1. As you already mentioned : for a trip to that side of Himachal at this time of the year ie March – be prepared for really really harsh unforgiving conditions / extremely unpredictable weather / unexpected road blocks / delays and definitely expect dangerous driving conditions.
    2. Certainly do not mean to scare anyone but we encountered rani nallah type of situation before Tapri / completely washed out half a bridge after Tapri ( had to postpone crossing the river to early morning when water level was low), lots of shooting stones and blocks of ice falling around us (luckily managed to avoid all except the really small ones ), icy slippery road conditions just before Kaza ( car actually skidded off the tyre ruts once).. and finally a fresh avalanche of snow right on a completely clear stretch of road on way down from Nako on return journey .
    3. Road conditions very poor on either side of Powari ,starts from Wangtoo on Delhi side and continues till @ 3 hours after Powari. But the bridge had been completely restored to normal on our return journey.So though bad…definitely driveable.
    4. Tapri : a. eat at Pappu’s dhaba on left side of the road ( excellent stuff..hugely helpful guy himself ..opened up a HP Electricity Board office for us to sleep in that night since the town was packed since 10.00am due to the bridge issue). Note: Carrying good ground mats and sleeping bags must for the trip. b. Fill up vehicle here unless you are going to Peo ( pump at Powari is not working and Peo pump starts only after 10.00am)
    5. We had news in Solan about block around Khab but it was open,however poor road conditions and no habitation. Climb to Nako : road is good but snow on roadside / shooting stone etc so be very careful ( left side passengers must constantly look up the mountain and alert the driver.) Do NOT miss a stop at Nako for a walk to the frozen lake and around the picturesque village.But the village was shut down..not even tea was available.Onwards to Tabo the road still ok.
    6. Tabo to Kaza : very dangerous road conditions : road piled up with fallen stones / ice blocks / huge water puddles with frost forming on top / icy roads with tyre rut tracks / extremely slippery / skid prone.We did this very very slowly for the last 20 kms or so and reached Kaza in total darkness and freezing subsub zero temperatures with 10-12 feet high walls of snow on both sides reflecting the car lights. Awesome..but scary as well !
    7. Night stay was at Kunzum Homestay ( Mr Anzim and his mother) about 10 minutes walk at night from the petrol pump.Superb place to stay..very very warm home and hearts !!
    8. Breathtaking sights of White Spiti next day. Wanted to go to Kibber but road was not yet opened.Was open till Ki but considering previous day experiences did not want to take a risk as all was well by God’s and the mountains’s grace.
    9. Diesel vehicles will need defreezing by use of stove for @30 minutes right under fuel pump area. Should not have a problem after that but do not leave Kaza without revving the car enough and seeing that it does not stall in high revs.
    10. Return journey pretty much the same except many more of shooting stones / ice boulders some of which cracked on road few feet ahead of us and ofcourse the avalanche.
    11. Night halt at HP PWD rest house at Puh, 5-6 kms upwards detour from the highway : superb amenities with hot water in geyser / western style toilets and dal/rice/roti for dinner.
    That’s pretty much it..but memories will live for ever !!
    Thanks again for all your help,
    Sanjay

    • Thank you so very much Sanjay for sharing the whole experience with us here. I must say I feel jitters reading your experience than what I actually experienced it. May be the beauty of the surroundings gives us that strength of continuing the journey no matter what challenges are faced. And such memories stay forever 🙂

      • surya kant on

        Hi..dheeraj.thanks for ur suggestions.as i discused with u earlier.our group is going on bike trip for kinnaur valley on 15th april to 20th april…what is your suggestions shell we postpond our programme or continue with that

        • surya kant on

          Hii..dheeraj…sorry im bothering you with so many quaries…bt we are scared about the rains n landslide after shimla to kalpa n sangla..wt u suggest about the precautions we should take for bike trip.we are going on 15 april as we discussed earlier

        • Surya, that is the risk that you have to take. Start all your days early, as much as you can, the later you leave, the sun goes up and snow melts. Also the wind speed increases causing shooting stones. Hence, the early you will leave, the less snow will melt. If the weather is gloomy and it is drizzling or light snowing in Spiti, DO NOT move beyond Kaza because the stretches near Mane and Tabo has slopes which causes shooting stones during that time. So, take care there. You need to watch out between Tabo and Kaza. Also between Shialkhar – Sumdo villages.

  16. Kinnaur and Kaza mostly remain unexplored due to accessibility issues. I have been to Kinnaur valley the views were stunning but the journey was very tiring especially road from narkanda to rampur was very bad. I am soon planning to blog about it my blog

  17. Hi Dheeraj,
    Am planning the trip to Kaza starting from Delhi on 24th March as per your advice.Right now it’s the wife and me and our Scorpio but once I’ve finalized the itineary I will put it to the other people in our group.I had a few questions if you don’t mind..
    1. What time of March was your trip ? Will we be able to experience that white cloak over the landscape? I know it’s always unpredictable but we’re driving from Pune only for this..so I thought to ask.
    2. Our target is to hit Kaza as soon as possible first and then think about side trips ( maybe to Kibber for a day since we were there in October..and Rekong peo on way back..as we both thought it was a lovely place). So keeping this in mind what should our itineary look like ?
    If we leave Delhi @5.00 am can we target Kalpa for 1st night halt or is Rampur more realistic ?
    Is it possible to make it to Kaza by next evening in either case ? or should we draw it out over three days ?
    3. What would our options be of staying en route and then in Kaza / Kibber / Rekongpeo ( if we can make it) at that time of the year? Are there some contact numbers etc availabe of local people who may be able to help out?
    4. Do we need stuff like snowchains on tyres etc to travel on any sectors ? I have no experience of this .My Scorpio is a 4WD though.I do know we might need a small heater for the fuel pump defreezing which may be needed.
    Sorry for so many questions..but you the maan buddy..!!
    Regards,
    Sanjay

    • Guess I replied to other same comments in the morning. Actually, going through little over burden work in office so unable to reply faster but targetiing to reply all within at max. 3-4 days. From March, will fall back to usual 36-48 hrs reply period 🙂

      • SANJAY VAID on

        Hi Dheeraj,
        As mentioned earlier we have planned our departure from Delhi for Kaza on 23rd March..but I believe the road ahead of Shimla is now closed. Will there be any way to know if this will open up in next 10 days? This trip we have planned to start our DoW cause participation with GYAN and will try to cover atleast two of the smaller villages mentioned in your website list.
        Please let me know if you have any information on road status.
        Regards,
        Sanjay

        • Hello Sanjay,

          The roads have opened but again close and open again based on the landslides. As per last week status it was quite risky affair. Let’s see what happens in next 10 days as it is expected to snow again in this week or so.

          I will update the road status again in few days.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  18. sanjayvaid1962 on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    You probably will not even remember me..but I made the road trip of my life this October based on your suggestions a couple of years ago.Finally did the Delhi – Manali – Rohtang – Gramphu – Kaza Kibber – Rekongpeo – Shimla – Delhi trip and it was awesome.Always thought the Leh-Manali drive was the ultimate one,but this beats it hands down !! Also climbed Mt.Kanamo from Kibber : a 4-5 days short expedition break :-)). I thought I had finally scratched that road trip itch,but came upon a video of some guys doing the trip the other way around in winter and then also read the narration of your trip.Now I want to go back there again and experience that magical heaven-like place in the winter.I know right now is not really the time,but when would be the earliest I could do this,you think ? at least up to Kaza. I have a Scorpio 4WD and an 8W crazy bug in my head.Nothing compared to you,but chief ! So, waiting for your advice..would like to go before the crowds start..am OK with very very basic amenities for living and food.Thanks once again.Sanjay.

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  27. Upamanyu Roy on

    I am travelling to Tribal circuit of HP from 30th Sept-12 Oct. I will visit starting from
    Chandigarh – Manikaran and stay on 30th.

    Manikaran to manali – via naggar ,jagatsukh valley on 31st &stay at manali.

    Manali – keylong via -rohtang la on 1st oct and stay.

    Keylong to chandratal on 2nd oct and stay at own camp.

    Chandratal – kaza via losar.kunzum la on 3rd oct.

    Kaza – ki,kibber at morning , langza hikkim in evening 0n 4th and stay.

    Kaza- nako ,via tabo on 5th and stay.

    Nako to kalpa -via puh,reckong peo and stay on 6th.

    Kalpa on 7th.

    Kalpa to chitkul on 8th and stay.

    chitkul to sangla on 9th ,and stay at chitkul via raksham valley.

    chitkul to sarahan on 10 th via nilchar on . 11 th sarahan to Narkanda , 12 th back to chandigarh..

    Iam travelling with my 56 year old mom and 19 year old brother. Can suggest me if my plan is right and weather and road updates ? also medicines i need to carry as emergency. Waiting patiently to hear you soon.

    • Hello Upamanyu,

      Plan looks fine with some minor alterations below:
      Manikaran to manali – via naggar ,jagatsukh valley on 31st &stay at manali.
      Manali – Sissu Hotel Triveni Or Khoksar via -rohtang la on 1st oct and stay.No need to go to Keylong and then come back again.
      Keylong to chandratal to Kaza. Staying overnight at Chandratal with family that late in season is something I will not go for.
      Kaza and around, visit Ki, Kibber, Gette or take rest in Kaza if feeling not well 3rd oct.
      Kaza – langza – Komik – hikkim circuit 4th and stay.
      Kaza – Dhangkar – Tabo – Nako, via tabo on 5th and stay.
      Nako to kalpa – via puh,reckong peo and stay on 6th.
      Kalpa on 7th.
      Kalpa to chitkul on 8th and stay.
      chitkul to sangla on 9th ,and stay at chitkul via raksham valley.
      chitkul to sarahan on 10 th via nilchar on .
      11 th sarahan to Narkanda , 12 th back to chandigarh..

      Plan is good roads conditions as usual are just OK types and at places bad upto you exit Kinnaur Valley. Within Spiti, in general roads are fine. Regarding list of thing to carry check: List of things to carry when you go on trip

      • Upamanyu Roy on

        Thanks a ton Dheeraj for your reply. I have made some alterations according to you suggested.

        Manali to keylong and we will go upto bara lacha .

        next day we will go to chandratal from keylong and have a stay losar after visiting chandratal.

        on 4th noon from losar we will reach at kaza . 4th evening we will go to ki -kibber route. and on 5th morning we will go to comic route. 5th evening we will go mud village route and have a stay at tabo. from tabo we will back again to dhankar monastery and will then go to nako.

        in kalpa also we will have trip to kanam and morang village. that is all from me.

        I donno how to thank you. but can you provide me any link that can give me an idea of the road distances and time span. specially keylong to chandratal and losar timings.

        thank you in future if i can join dow and can share my ideas with dow then how to proceed please mention. I am a mountaineer . travelled across Uttarkhand ,leh , arunachal. travelled in all forests of india but spared thi s part of himachal. i also travelled abroad for hiking . thanks once again for your prime suggestions.

        • You can cover Dhangkar while coming from Mud Village and then go over and rest at Tabo. From there go towards Nako and exit in Kinnaur

          Road distance are here available in the charts or altitude / distance graphs present under the link: http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/spiti-valley-via-kinnaur-how-to-plan-your-journey/ and http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/spiti-valley-via-manali-how-to-plan-your-journey/

          Keylong to Chandratal will be like 5-6.5 Hrs of drive. Losar to Kaza is about 2 Hrs, Chandratal to Losar is about 2 Hrs.

          You can surely Join DoW Community right today at http://devilonwheels.com/india where we as passionate Himalayan lovers are doing some wonderful work by togetherness and spreading smiles in Himalayas for the last one year or so now. Since, you are an avid traveler and have mapped to most remote Himalayan places, we would be more than happy to have you in the community and see what all we can do together to materialize the vision of DoW to spread smiles in Himalayas and at the same time benefit Himalayan Lives and Travellers up there… there are many active lovers up there doing some awesome work towards these little causes in promotion of Responsible Travel… Feel free to join anytime.

          Since, community is grown bigger, we are also looking forward to expand the core team… So, if you can contribute, nothing like it and who knows you end up with this amazing effort for the betterment of Himalayas. You can mail me too and we can chat over phone in case you be interested in active participation in the community 🙂 🙂

        • You can cover Dhangkar while coming from Mud Village and then go over and rest at Tabo. From there go towards Nako and exit in Kinnaur

          I donno how to thank you. but can you provide me any link that can give me an idea of the road distances and time span. specially keylong to chandratal and losar timings.

          Road distance are here available in the charts or altitude / distance graphs present under the link: http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/spiti-valley-via-kinnaur-how-to-plan-your-journey/ and http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/spiti-valley-via-manali-how-to-plan-your-journey/

          Keylong to Chandratal will be like 5-6.5 Hrs of drive. Losar to Kaza is about 2 Hrs, Chandratal to Losar is about 2 Hrs.

          You can surely Join DoW Community right today at http://devilonwheels.com/india where we as passionate Himalayan lovers are doing some wonderful work by togetherness and spreading smiles in Himalayas for the last one year or so now. Since, you are an avid traveler and have mapped to most remote Himalayan places, we would be more than happy to have you in the community and see what all we can do together to materialize the vision of DoW to spread smiles in Himalayas and at the same time benefit Himalayan Lives and Travellers up there… there are many active lovers up there doing some awesome work towards these little causes in promotion of Responsible Travel… Feel free to join anytime.

          Since, community is grown bigger, we are also looking forward to expand the core team… So, if you can contribute, nothing like it and who knows you end up with this amazing effort for the betterment of Himalayas. You can mail me too and we can chat over phone in case you be interested in active participation in the community 🙂 🙂

        • Upamanyu Roy on

          Many thanks dheeraj. I am from Kolkata,west bengal.

          will surely meet you one day. now I have registered with DOW according to the link you provided. I want share a view if there is choice we can talk about different mountain ranges,including himalaya .that would also be great.

        • Upamanyu, yeah, saw that and you are most welcome. For sure, currently we have a Misc. section where in all other things go in. Once we have similar content up there, we can surely create forums on to it if required and interest getting developed among people in future. However, we would like to be more focused on our persistent efforts towards Himalayas. We are looking to form the second team as I told you based on trekkers in order to simplify the world of trekking. So, see if you would like to be a part of it once back.

        • Upamanyu Roy on

          There is a trek route from Kibber village to Ladakh.Lamas there usually go to ladakh for selling the sheeps ,yak etc. It is a 5-6 days journey totally on foot. if you can extended for 5-6 days more. you can have a trek up to Tso moriri lake. I have wish to go there.

  28. Pingback: The Easy Drive of NH-22 - Snow White Spiti

  29. SPITI IN SUMMER OF NH-22

    We are a group of 4 planning to go upto Kibber via NH-22. We will b leaving On Saturday, 29-June-2014 on a Skoda Laura. Please give me an idea of road conditions? Does our car suit to these roads?

    • Gaurav, of course the road conditions will be bad in Kinnaur but not that much that you cannot take your car there. Of course, you need to be very cautious at certain sections and drive carefully there. No matter what if you plan to return from Manali side then your car will surely struggle on the route from Kunzum Pass to rohtang Pass via Chatru – Gramphu for sure. For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway Or Spiti Valley via Manali Or Ladakh, please refer the link: FAQ | Can I do Leh – Ladakh / Spiti / Manali – Leh trip in Hatchback or Sedan? for more details.

  30. K.C.Debnath on

    Dear Mr. Deeraj Sharma.
    First of all, I express my cordial thanks for your compact blog with valuable information. Really It is great. Now I have decided to visit Spiti Valley via Kinnaur Valley. It is 10 night programme starting from Shimla which is as below.
    Day-1: Sarahan via Narkanda & Rampur
    Day2: Sangla -Rakcham-Chitkul-Sangla.
    Day3: Kalpa via Recongpeo
    Day4: Tabo via Nako
    Day5: Mud Village via Dhankar/ Lake
    Day6: Kaza via Ki, Kibber
    Day7: Losar via Komik, Hikkim, Langza
    Day8: Manali via Chandratal, Rohtang La
    Day9: Kalka via Shimla
    I have kept one day buffer. Hallo Sir, is it possible? Kindly consider I am 68 & my wife 60. I will start my trip from 1st Sept.14. Pl suggest the car type as we are only two. what willbe the per day car rate inclusive of all.I am awaiting your best advice. Last time in Sept,11 we visited in Ladakh/ Leh & stayed there 9 nights.

  31. Rubal Walia on

    Wow, awesome information on your blog, Dheeraj. I could clarify most of my doubts. Just one question though, which vehicle did you use? And, what are your thoughts about a Ritz on shimla to Kaza route during last week of June? Thanks again!

  32. Dear Sir

    Your blog and detail on net are really amaizing.. ur pic’s too

    Planing to reach Leh by 15th May and spend a week there.. will it be possible to drive down to Spiti vally through kuzum pass ?

    Have a foruner at my disposlt at leh.

    thanks

    sabujan

  33. Jitesh Dubey on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    I had asked for your suggestions earlier also. Thanks for your response. Now the plan is fixed
    I had planned the following during 2nd & 3rd week of June:

    Day 1 – Delhi – Sarahan
    Day 2 – Sarahan – Rackcham (Base Camp for Kinnaur Valley)
    Day 3,4,5 – Chitkul,Sangla, Kalpa & Surrounding places
    Day 6 – Sangla – Kaza (Base for Spiti Valley)
    Day 7&8 – Spitti Valley
    Day 9 – Kaza – Kunzum pass – Chandrtal – Manali/Banjar
    Day 10 – Tirthan Valley
    Day 11 – Banjar – Delhi

    Please comment on above plan. Also Changes/Caution
    Regards,
    Jitesh

    I have Alto K10, slf driven,had prvious experience upto Krdar & Badri.

    • Few suggestions:
      Day 6: You will be starting from Kalpa. No point going back again to Sangla when you have to cover the same for Kaza. So, last day stay at Kalpa. Reach Tabo on this day instead of Kaza and sleep there. Will help you in acclimatization.
      Day 7: Tabo – Dhangkar – Dhangkar Lake – Pin Valley – Kaza
      Day 8: Ki, Kibber, Langza, Komik or rest in Kaza as I see you are short on time, or drop Tirthan Valley.
      Leave by 6 AM to do Chandratal and then reach Manali the same day. Take alto will be very challenging ahead of Losar towards Chandratal as well as from Chandratal / Kunzum Pass to manali

  34. Rajesh Kumar on

    Hi Dheeraj, Thanks for such lovely blogs and apt information. I am planning to go to spiti from chandigarh on 20th. I would be self-driving some SUV from chandigarh (still finding the right guy who can rent me one). Based on your last assessment of the road conditions and your such experience in these areas, what do you think the conditions would be now? Your views will be really helpful. Thanks.

    • Rajesh, road conditions will not improve much as the weather is not favourable in coming week. Also, since it is the time snow melts much faster so don’t expect much changes in the road conditions as mentioned in the article above. I will better suggest on a rented vehicle, that too self drive based, you will carry a high liability and risk. Better plan such a trip towards end of May when the roads in generall stabilize a bit so that the risk is much lower.

  35. Hi Dheeraj
    Could you please suggest how far ahead from Rampur can we go on an I20 considering the road conditions etc We would be 2 couples.

    • Hello Raman,

      If there is no rain/snow in coming days, then you can take your i20 all the way upto Kalpa / Sangla / Chitkul with careful driving and knowing the limits of your machine. But, if it rains then be ready for some scraping at under belly due to presence of slush ahead of Bhawanagar to Kalpa stretch.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

    • Dr Devender Sangwan on

      This time We wont go to Chitkul…. We can spend 12/5(FromChandigarh) to 17/5(Rohtak

      • Dr Devender Sangwan on

        I had planed like:
        23/5- Chandigarh to Sarhan
        13/5- Sarhan to Kalpa
        14/5 Sarahan to Kaza
        15/5 Ahead of Kaza & back if possible
        16/5 Kaza to Jaori
        & Jaori to back sweet home Rohtak…..
        Will it be ok…. Last time I drove alone from Rakcham To Chitkul & back to Chandigarh in one day… This time we all four can drive… And is very experience in hill driving….

        • Hmmm… well it will be like NO Buffer kind of touch and run, but yes, you can surely make it. If you all 4 can drive, I will say go for the kill !! At Kaza, don’t go anywhere BUT do check out Langza, Komik and Ki, Kibber in same priority order. You can stay at Sakya Abode, run by a dear friend Tsering. You can get connected with him at 09418208987

  36. Dr Devender Sangwan on

    Hi Deeraj, Last time we visited Chitkul in Nov 2012, after invaluable inputs from you, by driving own I-10… This time we 2 famlies( Both couples are doctors & from 47yrs to 52 yrs of age) have planned travelling to Lahaul-Spiti in I-10 again, from 12/5( early morning Departure from Chandigarh to 16/5( To Rohtak by evening)Can you suggest places and hotels for stay & places to be visited , daywise??? What road conditions & weather can be expected during that period?
    I am sure your inputs will be very very invaluable for us…..

    • Hello Dr. Sangwan,

      So good to hear from you after long. However, I will say you seem to have just 5 days in hand and with families it is complete NO from my side to visit Spiti Valley in just 5 days. You have been to Chitkul and you might understand the drive time it would have taken. From Chitkul, you need one long day of drive about 8-10 Hrs to reach Tabo – Kaza that is like one day and then one day again to come back. This is just touching and coming. So, in 5 days I do not think it is feasible to visit Spiti Valley.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  37. Hi Dheeraj , We are plannin to go to spiti on 9th apr 2014. So i have some questions to ask , please call me in dis number or provide me your email id .. Thanks , Dilip

    • Kavita, yeah, do make a trip to Spiti Valley and in case you have any queries feel free to shoot any !! There are many articles on the DoW Blog for explaining almost everything related to Spiti Valley 🙂

  38. Tarun gaur on

    mostly i travel with my own , by my own Mahindra Quanto , can i go to spiti valley in quanto or do i need a four wheel drive like scorpio or any other. How about in May month.

    • Quanto can make it to spiti and its possible to do it in May but you will not be able to cross Kunzam pass as it would not be open. You can go up to Losar (60 km further towards kunzam) and then do the back track. If possible go after mid June because at that time it will be possible to the complete circuit by going via Shimla and returning via Manali.

    • Tarun, you can perfectly make your trip to Spiti Valley in Quanto. You need a bit High GC which Quanto will provide you. No need of 4 WD. Also, in May actually you will not be able to complete the entire circuit that is going to Spiti from Shimla – Kinnaur and coming back from Manali. If you can plan it in June then you will be able to complete it as Anil bhai suggested above 🙂

  39. Quite informative. will help dozens of future commuters. Keep exploring the globe. all the best. Waiting for photo log 🙂

  40. debanjan das on

    Is it possible at this time? if not please suggest…
    25th MAY, SUNDAY —- –KALKA to RAMPUR(covering kufri,fagu,narkanda & padam palace)
    26th MAY, MONDAY —– RAMPUR to CHITKUL(covering kafnu, sarahan & sangla)
    27th MAY, TUESDAY——- CHITKUL to DHANKAR(covering kalpa, nako, nako lake, nako gumpha, tabo monastery)
    28th MAY, WEDNESDAY —— (early morning hike to Dhankar lake, visiting old & new dhankar monastery) DHANKAR to PIN VALLEY, STAY AT MUDH VILLAGE.
    29th MAY, THURSDAY ——– MUDH to KAZA(covering ki monastery)
    30th MAY, FRIDAY ——- STAY AT KAZA(covering kibber, langza,comic,gette)
    31st MAY SATURDAY —— KAZA to CHANDRATAL(covering kunzum la, losar)
    1st JUNE, SUNDAY ——— CHANDRATAL to SISHU(if possible MANALI)
    2nd JUNE, MONDAY ——- SISHU to MANALI or STAY AT MANALI.
    3rd JUNE, TUESDAY ——-STAY AT MANALI
    4th JUNE, WEDNESDAY ——- WHOLE DAY AT MANALI. At night depart for DELHI or CHANDIGARH.

    • Debanjan das ji, 27 May, it would be a really long considering the bad road condition at most of the places. We had done Kalpa to Tabo (170 km) in 11 hours.
      Secondly from chandratal to manali route does not touch Sissu. This route will be chandratal, batal, chattru, gramphoo and then left turn to Rohtang top and onwards journey to Manali. Total distance should be around 150 km.

    • Hi Debanjan,

      Make it like,

      Chitkul to Tabo
      Tabo – Dhangkar – Pin Valley

      Then, HIGHLY likely that Kunzum Pass will not open by that time and even if it opens I more doubt the road to Chandratal.

      In all likely case, you will have to return back at this time of the year.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

        • Debanjan, I will suggest to get in touch with Tsering at 09418208987. He is the owner of Sakya Abode, Kumphen and also runs couple of home stays. He will be able to guide you with reliable taxi driver too in Spiti.

  41. Sunil Arora on

    Very informative. I have been planning to visit Spiti since January this year. This log is a great help in planning. I intend to stay there for longer period, may be one month.

    • Wow, Sunil ji, amazing !! Do plan a trip there to Spiti Valley and in case any info. required. Please feel free to shoot any queries you have for your trip to Spiti Valley

  42. Manoj bhardwaj on

    Hello dheeraj sir, sir kinnuar roads give tuff always in season, but sir u did this trip then mostly roads r closed or block, sir u prove devil’s wheel never stop or stuck, my grand salute to u,

    • Yeah, it was indeed an amazing experience I will say !! Had a blast of a trip and was just like dream of seeing white spiti coming true !! More than physically, the trip was mentally challenging

  43. Nice updates brother. Really helpful for the people who are planning to do this splendid part of Himachal Pradesh. Waiting for more pictures now.

    • Thank you Anil bhai !! Yes, it was indeed an amazing trip I must say. Had really good time. Will share the rest of the log very soon, but after last few parts of Ladakh log completes 🙂

  44. Suhel Yadav on

    Hi Dheeraj I also went to Spiti valley last week, we went till Kaza covering Sangla, Nako and Kalpa, since we had only 5 days couldn’t went to lingti or Pin valley. It is indeed amazing place but I’ll say dangerous to go at this time, we encountered 5 landslides on the way. We stayed at IPH guest house in Kaza and home stay at Nako, would really want to go another time when all the routes are opened.

    • Wow Suhel, wish we knew each other before !! May be we had bumped into each other over there in the heaven. Feel free to join us on our DoW Mega Meet this september which is going to be held in Spiti Valley only…

    • Seems | symbol is the culprit :(, it should work now 😀 … BUT, that means need to correct all my titles or write code to fix this so that it ignores this symbol

  45. Devpriyo Bhattacharya on

    Waiting for the details. I can feel your anxiety on Day 6 and Day 7 and finally your achievement feeling on Day 8. Must have been a super exciting trip.

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