White Spiti Valley in March – Itinerary, Road Conditions & Updates

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I always had dreamed of experiencing White Spiti Valley in pristine white colors of snow with white river beds midst its beautiful wide valleys. Finally, last week, I did get a chance to realize this dream of mine as I went on a trip to White Spiti Valley buried under carpet of snow all over. I already knew that most of the sightseeing places within Spiti Valley will be closed, whatever open would be bonus for me, food/stay will be hard to come by or very basic availability and no doubt that living up there under (–)15 degree Celsius with harsh conditions would not be easy piece of cake.

White Spiti Valley – Kaza under Snow
White Spiti Valley - Kaza under Snow

Well, the conditions lived up to the expectations, harsh and unforgiving but vistas under white snow carpet in Spiti Valley were WORTH the pain we went through… It was not just the harsh conditions of winters BUT above all, the road conditions over Hindustan – Tibet Highway, especially in Kinnaur Valley were no less than a Death Highway… Shooting Stones, Massive Landslides, Knee Deep Slush, few Gushing Water Crossings, Car Wreckage ON and OFF the roads… and WHAT NOT… It was one hell of an adventure drive to Spiti Valley from Kinnaur Valley over NH-22 or Hindustan – Tibet Highway, at this time of the year when snow melts and bring those massive glacier down 🙂 … Also, just in case you are interested to know more about the differences between Hindustan – Tibet Road & NH – 22, I will suggest that you do read one of my previous article: Hindustan – Tibet Road or Road to Spiti Valley | An Introduction

Though I am going to write a detailed Travel Tale and reviews of the guest houses I stayed, but just before that would like to share what itinerary I followed, route I took and the updates on road conditions for reaching these places.

The White Carpet of Snow in Spiti Valley…

Itinerary for my Kinnaur – Spiti Valley Trip in March

Well, I had 9 days in hand for my White Spiti Valley trip including couple of buffer days and I followed the itinerary as below:

  • Day 1: Started the drive from Delhi – Ambala – Zirakpur – Solan – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur – Jeori. Stayed at PWD Rest House at Jeori.
  • Day 2: Resumed the tough drive from Jeori to go through Bhawanagar – Tapri- Powari – Akpa – Puh – Khab – Nako Stayed at IPH Guest House at Nako.
  • Day 3: Completed the final leg of the drive to Spiti Valley from Nako – Sumdo – TaboKaza In between, checked out Nako Lake in the morning and Tabo Monastery on the move to Kaza. Stayed with dear friend Tsering at Sakya Abode / Snow Lion
  • Day 4: Rest Day at Kaza. Went on to explore Ki – Kibber and then drove back to Attargoo, diversion to Pin Valley for taking some pictures of the valley.
  • Day 5: Went on to explore Lingti Valley that is Lallung – Rama Villages and then in the evening went on to explore Dhangkar Monastery overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin Rivers
  • Day 6: Nothing was stuck in Kaza owing to snowfall and deadly road conditions
  • Day 7: Nothing was stuck in Kaza owing to snowfall and deadly road conditions
  • Day 8: Weather cleared a bit, raising the hopes of getting out of Spiti Valley and Kinnaur Valley, especially. Started early in the morning, went on through Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Khab – Puh – Powari – Jeori. We had to stop near Powari at Pangi Nalla as there was a piece of road that had sunken. A new road was cut through the mountain to pass us through. Then, struggle with knee deep slush and finally, reached Jeori to stay at the same PWD Rest House.
  • Day 9: Completed the final part of the trip from Jeori – Rampur – Narkanda – Shimla – Solan – Zirakpur – Ambala – Delhi, sweet home.

Over all it was quite a thrilling experience with every day coming with a new kind of experience and snow galore over there in Spiti Valley in March 🙂 …

Road Conditions for Delhi – Shimla – Kinnaur Valley – Spiti Valley

Following is the breakdown of road conditions for the trip:

  • Delhi – Ambala – Zirakpur – Solan – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur – Jeori: Excellent, smooth sailing.
  • Jeori – Tranda – Bhawanagar: Mostly good roads with some patches of poor ones.
  • Bhawanagar – Wangtoo – Karcham – Shongtong – Powari: Poor roads at most places with deep slush stretches and bumpy rides.
  • Powari – Pangi Nalla – Ribba – Akpa: Horrible roads, almost like a death way with many landslide and shooting stones points. Near Ribba road was sinking at couple of places. Pangi Nall, just ahead of Powari was extremely horrible.
  • Akpa – Jangi – Tinku Nalla – Spillow – Puh – Khab: Mix of Average and Poor roads with few landslide points.
  • Khab – Ka Loops – Nako: Good roads mostly.
  • Nako  – Malling – Chango – Shialkhar – Sumdo: Nako – Malling was bad with a landslide point just before malling. After Malling to Shialkhar it is mix of good and average. After Shialkhar to Sumdo, mix of poor and very poor with a good KM stretch of Shooting Stones when nearing Sumdo.
  • Sumdo – Hurling – Tabo: Mix of average and good roads.
  • Tabo – Shichiling – Lingti – Atargoo – Kaza: Tabo to Shichiling was very scary and horrible with about 6-7 KMs of a stretch where we had constant Shooting Stones. In later half of day, this part if very dangerous and especially when it is snow melting season. From Lingti to Atargoo to Kaza is a mix of average and bad roads.
  • Kaza – Ki – Kibber: Mostly good roads barring only few stretches. Very scenic too.
  • Lingti – Rama – Lallung: Lingti to Lallung is a dirt track and presence of snow at many places made some stretches bad otherwise average road conditions much like any other dirt track.
  • Shichiling – Dhangkar Monastery: Good roads mostly being well tarred.
Road Conditions in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley
Road Conditions in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley

Phone Signals on Road to Spiti Valley with Data Connectivity

I was carrying Airtel Postpaid, BSNL Postpaid and Vodafone Postpaid and following was the signal status for all three of them:

  • All three were working mostly through the route Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Jeori – Bhawanagar – Karcham – Powari – Akpa – Spillow
  • Both Airtel and Vodafone were dead just near Spillow and ONLY BSNL worked after Spillow till Kaza
  • After Powari till Spillow via Akpa, the signals of both Airtel and Vodafone were going ON/OFF and after Spillow as said above, completely gone.
  • BSNL was also active in Ki and Kibber as well along with GPRS Data
  • Data Connectivity was always available wherever the signals were present though it was mostly 2G in the first half and towards the remote places of Kinnaur and Spiti, the data was just merely GPRS/EDGE based.

Other Important Updates for Spiti Valley Trip

  • Fuel pump at Powari has been shutdown I think and the new petrol pump at Tapri should be considered for refuelling before going towards Spiti Valley where Kaza will be the next petrol pump then. Otherwise, if you miss Tapri, you can go towards Peo as diversion after Powari, just in case you are short on fuel.
  • There is SBI ATM in Kaza. The Bank has also installed POS as well just in case of emergency and if you have SBI Cards, then you can debit Rs 1000 at a time from that POS.

Toll Amounts on the Route

  • Panipat Toll Plaza: Rs 30
  • Karnal Toll Plaza: Rs 105
  • Ambala Toll Plaza: Rs 34
  • Himalayan Expressway Toll Plaza: Rs 26
  • Green Tax Barrier at Himachal Pradesh border: Rs 60

I will start sharing the detailed Travel Tale of this White Spiti Valley Trip, the reviews of the properties I stayed and places at which I ate food, very soon 🙂

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174 Comments

  1. Hi,

    Can you please advise us on how to plan the trip to Spiti valley in March end. We have our own car, planning to have a road trip from Delhi, and we have almost 8-9 days in our hand.

    Moreover, would it be possible to plan the trip in a way that we go from Shimla and come back from Manali?

    Please let me know your views on the same and your suggestions on how to plan the stays as well.

    Thanks.

    • No Sukant, you must have seen the pictures in the article above. It is not possible to make a Manali – Kaza road trip in March. You can see even the roads are pretty much frozen in March and most places within Spiti Valley will also be closed. You can attempt the below plan keeping in mind conditions will be harsh in Spiti in March and hotels will be closed and only options will be home stays, basic food will be available

      Day 1 | Chandigarh – Narkanda – Sarahan
      Day 2 | Sarahan – Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul
      Day 3 | Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul – Nako – – Tabo
      Day 4 | Tabo – Dhangkar – Kaza
      Day 5 | Kaza Rest and Local Sightseeing
      — Ki, Kibber
      Day 6 | Kaza – Hikkim, Komik, Langza circuit – Kaza, Whereever the road is open.
      Day 7 | Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Kalpa
      Day 8 | Kalpa – Narkanda
      Day 9 | Narkanda – Chandigarh

  2. Hi, I am planning to visit Spiti valley on bike for 9 days, starting from 28 Jan 2017 . Since this time there is loads of snow on road would it be possible to go Spiti by Bike ?

  3. Such an Inspiring article to read. I have been to Spiti Valley in the month of May and the snow had melted and still the nature was so beautiful But it seems a snowy Spiti Valley is now on my Bucket List.
    Thanks for the inspiration.

  4. Hi Friend, First of all Thanks for sharing your White Spiti Valley experience, I am planning to do the same in March 2017 on Bike (Royal 350) , do you think its possible with Bike in March Month , if not then when you recommend me to go to see White Spiti on Bike. Thanks, Rahul

        • Changes, you mean? Well, you will have to ride in snow at times. The conditions can be slippery especially in morning rides. The road conditions are not the best as snow starts to melt taking down glaciers with them. Then cold will be too much so you will have to ride with all the protective gear as well as heavy woolens.

  5. Rakesh Koul on

    Just completed the Spiti Valley circuit in June 2016. Following is itinerary and hotels we used. Others planning the trip may find the information useful.

    Itineraries + Hotels
    ———————
    (Almost all hotels done through makemytrip.com, because of pricing and flexibility of cancellation). Yes makemytrip.com pricing can be lower than the hotel direct prices and makemytrip often pays the hotel owners full money, more than what you paid to makemytrip.

    Day 1 | Sat 18-JUN: Chandigarh to Chail. [Total Distance: 100km]. Started from CHD at around 6pm. Time: 4+ hours. Road is very congested, narrow at times.
    Hotel Chail Residency, Chail
    Highly recommended. Very hospitable. Great rooms. Great food.
    Dinner at “The Red Capsicum”, 45 min before Chail on the highway

    Day 2 | Sun 19-JUN: Hotel Chail – Rakcham (Total Distance: 238km)
    Hotel Apple Pie, Rakchham
    Recommended, Little expensive (Vs. quality). Owner: Mukesh, a terrific guy. Great food, may ask him to add more salt to food 🙂
    Once you cross Rampur, the road will quickly cease to exist at most of the occasions. When you again start seeing a decent road is on Rohtang Pass – Manali sector. You will see some patches of decent road now and then, but mostly it is unpaved at the best and rocky at the worst. Sometimes no road, you will wonder if it is a NH, or SH road. And sometimes, it is just nallah (water flowing over the rocks)

    Day 3 | Mon 20-JUN: Rakcham – Chitkul – Sangla – Kalpa (Total Distance: 83km)
    Hotel Apple Pie, KALPA
    Highly recommended, We got rooms with great views. Owner: Aman, a terrific guy. I liked this hotel a tad better than the Rakcham one. Both hotels have the same name and are owned by same business partners.
    Chhitkul is one of the better sections of this entire trip. Reserve time for this spot.
    On the way to Chhitkul, there is a police checkpost. Car will be stopped there, when you do reach there, stop there. There are great photography spots there. Our driver didn’t intend to stop there.
    Chhitkul village is awesome. There is a school here, and a waterfront next to it. Great area for pictures.

    Hotel claims wi-fi but the service isn’t there.

    Day 4 | Tue 21-JUN: Kalpa – Khab – Nako – (Sumdo) – Tabo (Total Distance: 180 km)
    Hotel Trojan, Tabo
    Recommended. We initially didn’t plan to stay in Tabo, instead had plans to go up to Kaza. but our driver didn’t recommend doing that. We made a last min stay in Tabo & canceled Kaza hotel. This hotel is very basic compared to the other hotels on the trip, but because of the hospitability and service, I rate it as 4.5/5. At the price we got it for, plus the service, it was a great deal.
    Tabo Monastery is good. Some shopping opportunities here.

    Day 5 | Tue 22-JUN: Tabo – Dhankar Monastery – Pin Valley (up to Sagnam village)- Kaza
    Lunch at Tashi Delek Restaurant near Dhankar Monastery
    Hotel Deyzor, KAZA
    Highly (highly) recommended. The best hotel of the trip (cost vs. quality). Owner: Karan. Ask him his story; well it is kind of written in the hotel rooms, but you should talk to him. Very inspiring.
    Kaza Monastery is great. Pin Valley area is good. We found a riverside approach, where kid had great time.
    WiFi not existent, though the hotel claims. I tried for hours and got synced once.

    Day 6 | Thu 23-JUN: Kaza – Langza – Komik – Hikkim – Key- Kibber – Kaza (Total Distance: 79km)
    Hotel Deyzor, KAZA
    I liked Komik, Langza and Hikkim. I didn’t find it worth going to Kibber. Key Monastery was good

    Day 7 | Fri 24-JUN: Kaza – Kunzum Pass – Bat(t)al – Rohtang La (Pass) – Manali, excluded Chandra Taal. (Total Distance: 202km)
    Hotel Silmog Gardern, Manali
    Highly recommended. Very good hotel and terrific restaurant and service. Little pricey, but with the makemytrip discount, it was a great deal for us. Loved food here.
    Drive time: 13 hours. Entering Manali city in the evening is a big bottleneck.
    Left Kaza at 6AM, reached Manali 7:30PM.
    Breakfast at Samson G Cafe Losar (2 hours from Kaza — best service and best breakfast in the circuit).

    Day 8 | Sat 25-JUN: Manali – Chandigarh
    Drive time: 12 hours.

    Overall perspective on the trip:
    a. Drive times are very long because of road conditions. Sometimes you will feel you are driving, driving and driving, and not getting time to see enough. We had a 7-day trip, and it was tight.
    b. Number of visitors in the area is very limited. Mostly adventure seekers. Less of family folks. We were traveling as a family – adults, kid, and older people. I don’t think there are more than 100 people doing this circuit on one day.
    c. Don’t go to this area without BSNL Phones. I knew about that, so we were carrying 2 BSNL Phones, 1 reliance and 2 IDEA phones. Only BSNL Phones worked in most of the trip. BSNL Phone connectivity: Voice connectivity at most of the places on the circuit, except Kibber, Kee, Hokkim. BSNL Edge/3G Data connectivity in Kalpa, sangla, Chail, Losar, Tabo (limited)…
    d. Food was the least of the concern on the trip. Food was very good in the whole sector. Our driver (Vinkal Handa) knew great eating places at every single place.
    e. Weather – Don’t go by what weather.com says. The area is dry, doesn’t rain (in June), sun was bright and it was warm. We were carrying clothes for low temperature and we didn’t use them even once on the whole trip.
    f. Zoomcar Vs. Taxi – We had initially planned to take a zoomcar + 1 taxi. Eventually some of the folks couldn’t make to the trip, so we canceled zoomcar. We saw 3-4 zoomcars running on the circuit. You can drive it if you are comfortable. I am comfortable and wanted to drive as an adventure, but at the end of the trip, I wouldn’t recommend doing it. Delegate that job to the taxi driver. Taxi’s are not that expensive, keeping in mind what a mess the roads are, and how much hard work drivers do. I won’t drive my car on this route for 7 days for that much money.
    g. For Photographers: I am not a professional photographer, but like to spend some time with photography, and I don’t like it when I don’t get quality time taking pictures. You will get some time to take pictures, but because of ultra long drive times, your taxi driver will be more focused on meeting deadlines. We had to strike a deal with Vinkal (driver) that we will do some “from the car window” photography. I had some fancy camera + lenses + tripod with me. But most of my photography ended up being quick one only. Chhitkul was an exception where you will get time to spend time. If you are interested to see some pictures from the trip, here is the link: http://www.apni.pictures/LandscapesByLocation/Spiti-Valley/ (hopefully I am not violating DoW terms and conditions by posting external links)

    h. Talk to local village residents, lamas, local travelers. I wasn’t planning to invest time in that much but because of the company I had, I ended up doing lot of that. Many of them obliged with quality photos also:). You will get to taste local tea, and other stuff, if you connect.
    i. Food at most of the places will be prepared on demand, AFTER you order, so factor in that time.
    j. Altitude Sickness: I started feeling it in Chhitkul area and others in the group started feeling in Kaza area. Nevertheless you will have that problem. Sometimes simple walking will make you feel breathless. Nothing extra-ordinary or unbearable. We were ages 9, few folks in early 40’s and 1 around 70.
    k. The whole area is extremely dusty. If you have dust allergy, you need to be careful, or plan for it. You can’t drive with windows open unless you are OK breathing very dusty air.
    l. Overall, this area is for adventure seekers not necessarily for people who wants to see maximum landscape beauty in least amount of time and rush back. You have to be able to tolerate things moving forward at ultra-slow pace.
    m. And then the tire punctures. We had 2 and Vinkal was quick in resolving those. Keep in mind, drivers can’t plan for too many punctures. They assume 2-3 incidents on the circuit. We were lucky to have only 2. We did the most treachorous part of the trip (Losar – Kunzum – Battal – Rohtang) section without a spare. Some people in the car were tense.
    n. Last but not the least – our taxi driver: Vinkal Handa – very knowledgeable, networked, and patient driver. Highly highly recommended. His Innova’s are a little old though. Being diesel cars, these are underpowered and have issues runnning on the circuit with AC on. Yes, you will need AC much more frequently than you think you may (in summer months). Also diesel cars seem to emit lot of diesel smell.

  6. Hi Dheeraj,

    We are planning to visit to Spiti in First week of july from Manali side. Do we need permit for Rohtang Pass?

  7. Hi,
    I am planning to visit Kinnaur Lahaul and Spiti from June 25-1st july. How will be weather condition? Is monsoon expected to arrive at that time? During this time bike trip can be doable?

    Thanks,
    Arghya

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        My itenerary is as follows
        Day (1) 24 june. pick from Chandigarh to shimla NH
        Day (2) 25 .shimla to Sarahan NH
        Day (3)26 .Sarahan to sangla NH
        Day (4)27sangla to chhitkul to Kalpa NH
        Day (5)28 Kalpa to tabo NH
        Day (6)29 tabo to kaza via dhankar NH
        Day (7)30 kaza to local NH
        Day (8)1 kaza to chandertal NH
        Day (9)2 chandertal to Manali NH
        Day (10) 3 Manali to Chandigarh
        My queries are
        1. Expected weather- shluld I expect monsoon in its full fledge
        2. Is bike riding possible given in this condition?

        • In August, it is all monsoon, In september it fades out and you have amazing fall colors, In July it is mix of rains and dry spells. Your plan looks OK to me.

  8. Naim ahmad on

    What is the weather in kaza,nako,kappa,kargil and how is the road dheraj tthhere
    Plz let me I want go Leah laddhak too my motorbike so plz lett me know
    Start from 10june what you recommended?

  9. Harish Shah on

    Hello fellow traveller,

    Looking for great adventure?
    Join me on in-depth tour of Spiti Valley.
    17 days from Chandigarh to Chandigarh.
    Starting 10th July 2016.
    Route: Shimla-Spiti (14 days)-Dharmasala (via Manali)-Chandigarh
    Using private vehicle throughout the 17 days.

    Harish

  10. Hi Dheeraj (and other expert travelers on this forum).
    I have been following the forum for a while, but this is the first post, I made. I am looking for some feedback on my Spiti valley trip itinerary in June:

    June 18: Chandigarh – Chail, Stay in Chail
    June 19: Chail – Sangla – Chitkul, Stay in Sangla.
    June 20: Chitkul – Sangla – Kalpa, Stay in Kalpa
    June 21 – Kalpa – Khab – Nako – (Sumdo) – Tabo – Kaza, Stay in Kaza (Didn’t get hotels in Tabo)
    June 22 & 23 – Stay in Kaza, to cover Tabo – Dhankar – Dhankar Lake – Langza -Komik – Hikkim – Key- Kibber
    (I have 3 night stay in Kaza).

    June 24: Kaza – Manali, Stay in Manali
    June 25 – Manali – Chandigarh

    Am I underestimating some sections of the area?

    Few other questions:
    – Any known roadblocks on the entire circle, that are expected to last till mid June.
    – We have 1 local Spiti valley taxi and 1 zoomcar from Chandigarh to drive a total of 8-9 people in 2 cars. Any issues with that plan?

    Thanks in advance.
    –Rakesh

      • Thanks Dheeraj. Appreciate your response. Are there any known roadblocks on the entire circle, that are expected to last till mid June? Somebody was telling me about road closures, but I suspect those are pre-summer seasonal closures.

        • Mid June shall be fine. Do leave early in the day from Kaza to Manali as water crossings will be ferocious in the day time on that route.

  11. Arun Narayan on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    This is just a note to say THANK YOU!! DOW helped us a whole lot with planning a self drive/biking trip to Spiti which we did between 15th and 25th of April this year.
    What a trip it was!!! It took us about a week to get back and get over the sheer excitement and hangover of the trip. God was kind and blessed us with snow fall the 1st night that we spent in Kaza… resulting in a heavenly view that we got from our hotel room at The Deyzor (which Karan opened just for our group!).
    Now i realise what you meant by WHITE SPITI… pure and unadultrated heaven on earth!

    For those who have not been there… this is a MUST DO on your list of places in the Himalayas. The drives are pretty challenging and conditions can get pretty harsh esp when going off season. But, the people in the region are really friendly and helpful by nature. That really takes the edge off the conditions.

    Thank you so much Dheeraj, for all the inputs you have been updating on the site… helped us immensly with the planning.

    Cheers
    Arun

    • Dear Arun,

      This is exactly what I had in mind. Hope you wont mind helping me out on a few doubts…
      1. How was the weather (tolerable on a bike)?
      2. Is it tricky riding a bike in those months in that region?
      3. What about food/accomodation? Did you need to do tenting/cooking your own food anywhere?
      4. Any advice you would have for a person wanting to ride it out rather than drive, in this region?

      Sorry about the many questions, and though I have been to Ladakh, this seems like a different ball game, especially with the snow.

  12. Hi Dheeraj.
    Last year in July 2015 I had been to Leh-Ladakh and followed the DoW blog. It was really very helpful in planning our trip. We tackled AMS in advance as per your tips and suggestions.
    This year july 2016 I along with my friends are planning to visit Spiti valley. But as compared to last year. Our days have been reduced. It’s just 4 to 5days. We are planning for a round trip from Shimla to Spiti and end in Manali. Ex Shimla to Manali would be for 6days. Can you suggest a tour plan from Shimla to Manali? Also place to visit and Oracle in spiti valley.

    • You can try below:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Narkanda
      Day 2 | Narkanda – Kalpa
      Day 3 | Kalpa – Nako – Nako Lake – Geyu Mummy – Tabo
      Day 4 | Tabo – Dhankar – Dhankar Lake – Pin Valley (Mudh Village) – Kaza
      Day 5 | Kaza Local Sightseeing 
      — Ki, Kibber, Gette, Tashigang in the second half of the day
      — Hikkim, Komik, Langza circuit 
      Day 6 | Kaza – Kunzum Pass – Chandratal
      Day 7 | Chandratal – Manali

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