I always had dreamed of experiencing White Spiti Valley in pristine white colors of snow with white river beds midst its beautiful wide valleys. Finally, in the first week of March 2014, I did get a chance to realize this dream of mine as I went on a trip to White Spiti Valley buried under a carpet of snow all over.

I already knew that most of the sightseeing places within Spiti Valley will be closed, whatever open would be bonus for me, food/stay will be hard to come by or fundamental availability, and no doubt that living up there under (–)15 degree Celsius with harsh conditions would not be easy piece of cake.

Check my latest article on Spiti Valley in March – A Comprehensive Guide & Complete Itinerary

Spiti in March - A detailed day by day plan
Spiti in March – A detailed day by day plan

Download your FREE high-resolution version pdf copy of this Spiti in March day by day plan infographic guide. If, you liked it and found it helpful, please feel free to share it with your family and friends to help them too.

Weather Conditions in Spiti in March

Well, the conditions lived up to the expectations, harsh and unforgiving but vistas under white snow carpet in Spiti Valley were WORTH the pain we went through. It was not just the harsh conditions of winters BUT above all, the road conditions over Hindustan – Tibet Highway, especially in Kinnaur Valley were no less than a Death Highway…

Shooting Stones, Massive Landslides, Knee Deep Slush, few Gushing Water Crossings, Car Wreckage ON and OFF the roads… and WHAT NOT… It was one hell of an adventure drive to Spiti Valley from Kinnaur Valley over NH-22 (now known as NH-05) or Hindustan – Tibet Highway.

White Spiti Valley - Kaza under Snow
White Spiti Valley – Kaza under Snow

At this time of the year when the snow melts and bring those massive glaciers down. Also, just in case you are interested to know more about the differences between Hindustan – Tibet Road & NH – 22, I will suggest that you do read one of my previous article Hindustan – Tibet Road or Road to Spiti Valley | An Introduction

Though I am going to write a detailed Travel Tale and reviews of the Himachal guesthouses I stayed, just before that would like to share what itinerary I followed, the route I took and the updates on road conditions for reaching these places.

Views of Spiti valley in March

My Trip Itinerary for Kinnaur – Spiti Valley Trip in March

Well, I had 9 days in hand for my White Spiti Valley trip including a couple of buffer days and I followed the itinerary as below:

  • Day 1: Started the drive from Delhi – Ambala – Zirakpur – Solan – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur – Jeori. Stayed at PWD Rest House at Jeori.
  • Day 2: Resumed the tough drive from Jeori to go through Bhawanagar – Tapri- Powari – Akpa – Puh – Khab – Nako Stayed at IPH Guest House at Nako.
  • Day 3: Completed the final leg of the drive to Spiti Valley from Nako – Sumdo – TaboKaza In between, check out Nako Lake in the morning and Tabo Monastery on the move to Kaza. Stayed with dear friend Tsering at Sakya Abode / Snow Lion
  • Day 4: Rest Day at Kaza. I went on to explore Ki – Kibber and then drove back to Attargoo, diversion to Pin Valley for taking some pictures of the valley.
  • Day 5: Went on to explore Lingti Valley that is Lallung – Rama Villages and then in the evening went on to explore Dhangkar Monastery overlooking the confluence of Spiti and Pin Rivers
  • Day 6: Nothing was stuck in Kaza owing to snowfall and deadly road conditions
  • Day 7: Nothing was stuck in Kaza owing to snowfall and deadly road conditions
  • Day 8: Weather cleared a bit, raising the hopes of getting out of Spiti Valley and Kinnaur Valley, especially. Started early in the morning, went on through Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Khab – Puh – Powari – Jeori. We had to stop near Powari at Pangi Nalla as there was a piece of road that had sunken. A new road was cut through the mountain to pass us through. Then, I struggle with knee-deep slush and finally, reached Jeori to stay at the same PWD Rest House.
  • Day 9: Completed the final part of the trip from Jeori – Rampur – Narkanda – Shimla – Solan – Zirakpur – Ambala – Delhi, sweet home.

Overall, it was quite a thrilling experience with every day coming with a new kind of experience and snow galore over there in Spiti Valley in March 🙂 … You should look at my article on a winter trip to Spiti Valley.

More frozen views near Kaza in March
More frozen views near Kaza in March

Road Conditions for Delhi – Shimla – Kinnaur Valley – Spiti Valley

Following is the breakdown of road conditions for the trip from Delhi to Shimla to Kinnaur to Spiti Valley in March:

  • Delhi – Ambala – Zirakpur – Solan – Shimla – Kufri – Narkanda – Rampur – Jeori: Excellent, smooth sailing.
  • Jeori – Tranda – Bhawanagar: Mostly good roads with some patches of poor ones.
  • Bhawanagar – Wangtoo – Karcham – Shongtong – Powari: Poor roads at most places with deep slush stretches and bumpy rides.
  • Powari – Pangi Nalla – Ribba – Akpa: Horrible roads, almost like a death way with many landslides and shooting stones points. Near Ribba road was sinking at a couple of places. Pangi Nalla just ahead of Powari was extremely horrible.
  • Akpa – Jangi – Tinku Nalla – Spillow – Puh – Khab: Mix of Average and Poor roads with few landslide points.
  • Khab – Ka Loops – Nako: Good roads mostly.
  • Nako – Malling – Chango – Shialkhar – Sumdo: Nako – Malling was bad with a landslide point just before malling. After Malling to Shialkhar, it is a mix of good and average. After Shialkhar to Sumdo, a mix of poor and very poor with a good KM stretch of Shooting Stones when nearing Sumdo.
  • Sumdo – Hurling – Tabo: Mix of average and good roads.
  • Tabo – Shichiling – Lingti – Atargoo – Kaza: Tabo to Shichiling was very scary and horrible with about 6-7 KMs of a stretch where we had constant Shooting Stones. In the latter half of the day, this part if very dangerous and especially when it is snow melting season. From Lingti to Atargoo to Kaza is a mix of average and bad roads.
  • Kaza – Ki – Kibber: Mostly good roads barring only a few stretches. Very scenic too.
  • Lingti – Rama – Lallung: Lingti to Lallung – Demul is a dirt track and the presence of snow at many places made some stretches bad otherwise average road conditions much like any other dirt track.
  • Shichiling – Dhangkar Monastery: Good roads mostly being well tarred.
Road Conditions in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley
Road Conditions in Kinnaur and Spiti Valley

Phone Signals on Road to Spiti Valley with Data Connectivity

I was carrying Airtel Postpaid, BSNL Postpaid and Vodafone Postpaid and following was the signal status for all three of them:

  • All three were working mostly through the route Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Jeori – Bhawanagar – Karcham – Powari – Akpa – Spillow
  • Both Airtel and Vodafone were dead just near Spillow and ONLY BSNL worked after Spillow till Kaza
  • After Powari till Spillow via Akpa, the signals of both Airtel and Vodafone were going ON/OFF and after Spillow as said above, completely gone.
  • BSNL was also active in Ki and Kibber as well along with GPRS Data
  • Data Connectivity was always available wherever the signals were present though it was mostly 2G in the first half and towards the remote places of Kinnaur and Spiti, the data was just merely GPRS/EDGE based.

You can always refer my article on mobile phone connectivity in Spiti Valley for more details.

Other Important Updates for Spiti Valley Trip in March

  • The fuel pump at Powari is no longer operational. You should consider the new petrol pump at Tapri for refueling before going towards Spiti Valley. After the Tapri petrol pump, you will find the next fuel station at Kaza then. Otherwise, if you miss Tapri, you can go towards Peo as a diversion after Powari, just in case you are short on fuel.
  • There is an SBI ATM in Kaza. The Bank has also installed POS as well just in case of emergency, and if you have SBI Cards, then you can debit Rs 1000 at a time from that POS.

Toll Amounts on the Route

  • Panipat Toll Plaza: Rs 30
  • Karnal Toll Plaza: Rs 105
  • Ambala Toll Plaza: Rs 34
  • Himalayan Expressway Toll Plaza: Rs 26
  • Green Tax Barrier at Himachal Pradesh border: Rs 60

I will start sharing the detailed Travel Tale of this White Spiti Valley Trip, the reviews of the properties I stayed and places at which I ate food, very soon. You can always look at my winter Spiti trip itinerary for planning such a trip.

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I am Dheeraj Sharma - a traveler, techie, and Himalayan lover. Since 2009, I have been helping thousands of travelers every year plan memorable & budget-friendly trips to the Himalayas - Smartly, Safely, and responsibly.

200 Comments

  1. Mousumi Chakraborty on

    Hello,

    I have read your blog. This is nice and full of informative. I really appreciate the list you have shared. It helps me a lot.
    Hope you will share this type of blog in future as well. I am waiting for that.

    Thanks.

  2. Praneethsa1 on

    Hey, can I know wther it is ok to travel during mid of August..and what type of clothes should I take..and if anybody is ready to join me for a trip to spiti valley during August 2018 ..please mail me. @ minnu.space@gmail.com …..my dates are flexible

    Thanks you

  3. Hi,

    Great post.!

    I am planning a bike trip to Spiti in May ending. As there are news that this year snow is less, is there any possibility of Rohtang pass to be opened by that time?

    Thanks.

    • By end of May, Rohtang Pass will be open but I will still doubt on Manali – Kaza whole route to be open even when snow is less. Just now as I type in this response, more than half a foot of snow has fallen within lower Spiti 🙂

  4. Hey dheeraj nice write up with all details for march spiti riders. I believe u had this trip in 2016 march. Very informative. Helpful.
    My question is what do you think compare to 2016 in 2018 will see some upgrade in road conditions? New constructions? Or it will be same as two yrs old like structure?
    Can you share any updates which isn’t in ur article. Expected 2018 status of spiti for march april 2018 trips?
    Any suggestions or to watch out for certain specifics?
    Thanks..

    • Hey Neil,

      Nothing much change in years and the only thing uncommon this year is that less snow has fallen this year and snow is not in abundance. Rest mostly things will be same.

  5. Hi Dheeraj,

    me and wife are planning a trip to Spiti from Shimla route in March -20th till 28th? May i know will the weather suitable to make a trip and also on the safety measures. Mostly will hire a car with a driver who has the knowledge of this route?

    How would the temperatures would be?

    Thanks,
    Sanjeet

    • Sanjeet, are you OK to travel in harsh cold conditions with limited and basic stay options without toilets/running water and basic food?

      • I am talking to few folks who arrange the spiti tour and they told they will provide the accomodation and food along with taxi( Innova or Bolero).

        I am ok to face cold conditions but just to know what temperatures it can go to? Based on the experience for march?

        Also when u mentioned no runing waters- and basic food not even in proper hotels? The agency i am going through has given few hotel options and they confirmed food and water wont be a problem.

        • Temperature will be around sub zero in the night, winds can make it feel less than zero too especially in evenings and mornings. The water freeze, so they take out water from toilets, not sure how those agents will be providing you the water in toilets in Spiti. I have been twice there in winters, once in May. Even in late April/early May, a friend opened the toilet only as special gesture.
          The truck for foods do not travel in winters to Spiti, so food supplies are limited. Again without those agents sending own food, it will be pretty basic food available in Spiti during that time. Mostly limited to daal, rice, roti/chapatis. Both times I had been, we took our eggs and cooked them and also various packs. So, do confirm from them about expectations.

          I am suggesting of my vast experience of knowing locals and numerous trips to Spiti Valley unless something has changed in last year or so 😀

  6. Sushil Chauhan on

    Hei, i am planning a bike trip to spiti valleys from delhi in first week of march! Is it possible to attempt so-while keeping the above on mind?

  7. Akshay Jachak on

    Hi,
    I’m planning to go To Spiti from 28 March-5 April. Will the public transport be functioning? I’ll be travelling alone and keen on going to Mudh, Pin valley as well. 🙂
    Please suggest.

    • Pin Valley and Mud Village road will be closed in March – April Akshay. However, you can travel to Spiti Valley by public transport. In case of road block, the buses from each side work and drop the passengers at the each end of blockage. Passengers walk to different ends to change the bus.

    • teena kohli on

      Hello Akshay I am too planing on same dates for Spiti ,I have heard that there are passenger taxi available from Kinnaur to Spiti .

      • It will be much better that you check the DoW Travel Calendar from the link in the Main Menu of website. There had been about 600+ entries of the people planning their trips in last couple of seasons which helped them have better visibility for finding out travel partners. You can filter entries based on the preferences you have and increase chances of visibility. Hence, kindly explore DoW Travel Calendar and also post your entry too. This will help you find other fellow travellers looking for company and increase probability of finding your post by others too.

        You can also post a DoW Travel Calendar entry by using the Main Menu and clicking on Submit New Event option in it. Here is the link: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/dow-travel-partners-calendar/

  8. Gurdeep Singh on

    Hi,

    Can you please share the cost of the hotels & food from Sangla, Tabo & Kaza & if you have the contact numbers of the hotels.
    How did you travel via bike or car.?

    • You can get connected directly to some drivers in Himachal or Spiti Valley or Kinnaur Valley at the link: List of Taxi Drivers for Spiti Valley & Kinnaur Valley. These drivers can come and pick you up from Manali / Shimla / Delhi / Chandigarh too, of course with a price of the pickup as well.

      The rates of the taxis are about Rs 3500 per day depending on the number of days you plan to travel, more the days, less the price. If you are 2-3 in the group, you can opt for sedan taxi cars as well which charges around Rs 2200 per day.

      Otherwise, taxis, in general, are also available on the spot from Shimla or Manali from respective taxi stands. These drivers can help you with finding local stay options too.

      For stay options in Kinnaur and Spiti, check the link: Some Good Options of Stays in Spiti Valley / Kinnaur Valley.

      You can keep an average of 900-1200 per person per day for food and stay on the tour to Spiti Valley.

  9. Hi,
    I am planning a trip from 1st June to 10th June from Delhi to Spiti via Shimla and return from Manali. Can you please tell me the condition of road during this time of the year. We would be driving in i-10 grand and 2 bikes (Enfield and Avenger). Do we need a pass while passing from rohtang to Manali.

    • You do not need any permit in case you plan to travel from Kaza – Rohtang Pass to Manali. It is required in other direction. The road from Kaza to Manali would have just opened at that time, so not in very good shape with all the nallas and bad, unleveled road there. i10 is going to surely struggle and take a beating on Manali – Kaza road for sure and some beating on rest of the other road. Unless you drive in such conditions with bad roads, it is better to take a taxi or high GC vehicle with you.

  10. siddhartha on

    HI I am looking for itinerary of simla to spiti valley to simla OR manali (23’rd april to 29’th April).
    could someone suggest me how to set my tour.

    • The road from Manali to Kaza will not be open during that time of the year. So, only option is hectic trip from Shimla – Spiti Valley – Shimla in 7 days. Some routes below to villages around Kaza may not be open, so skip them in itinerary below.

      Day 1: Delhi – Shimla / Narkanda
      Day 2: Shimla / Narkanda – Kalpa
      Day 3: Kalpa – Nako – Nako Lake – Tabo
      Day 4: Tabo – Dhangkar – Dhangkar Lake – Pin Valley – Kaza
      Day 5: Kaza – Ki, Kibber, Komik, Hikkim
      Day 6: Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Kalpa – Rampur/Jeori (very long day)
      Day 7: Rampur/Jeori – Delhi (again a long day)

  11. hi dheeraj,
    We plan to do spiti bike tour in may end 2017. there is lot of confusion in connection of passes not opening by that time. few are saying it only opens after june mid and others say they open by may end?? can u help us getting some clarity on this.
    thanks.

    • Manali to Kaza road opens by mid of June while Kunzum Pass does open by May end. Hence, if you will ask Passes then they do open by May end but the complete road from Kaza to Manali does not open by mid of June in general.

  12. Dear Dheeraj, Back to trouble you.

    We are planning a trip from Shimla route to cover Spiti Valley in 7 Days and 6 nights. The itinerary decided for now is as below. We shall be doing this trip via innova around 27 May and onwards.

    I have a few questions and would be happy to hear from you:

    Will we encounter snow – How would the road conditions be at this month of the year- Does it rain during this months- Is this a sufficient time to cover the below mentioned locations- Hope the vehicle is suitable and can pass through the terrains as the driver is obviously local – As a group of 5 we shall be fetching 20k per person, which I feel is appropriate, would like to hear from you- Pls advise

    DAY 1: Shimla – Reckong Peo/Kalpa via Rampur. Overnight stay at a Hotel/Homestay/Guesthouse. (Appx. 9-10 hrs)

    DAY 2: Reckong Peo/Kalpa – Nako. Overnight stay at a Hotel/Homestay/Guesthouse. (Appx. 4-5 hrs)

    DAY 3: Nako – Gyu – Tabo Monastery – Kibber. Overnight at a Homestay. (Appx. 7-8 hrs)

    DAY 4: Kibber – Key Monastery – Hikkim – Komic – Langza. Overnight at a Homestay. (Appx. 4-5 hrs)

    DAY 5: Langza – Kaza – Pin valley – Mudh – Lalung – Dhankar/Tabo. Overnight at a Homestay. (Appx. 6-7 hrs)

    DAY 6: Dhankar/Tabo – Reckong Peo/Kalpa. Overnight stay at a Hotel/Homestay/Guesthouse. (Appx. 8-9 hrs)

    DAY 7: Reckong Peo/Kalpa – Shimla. Tour ends. (Appx. 9-10 hrs)

    Thanks

    • Hey Pavan,

      You plan is an invitation to AMS as for Nako and Kibber you wont be acclimatized well. I will do Kalpa to Tabo and then may be Tabo to Kibber for a try which will be much better. Rest looks good.

      Snow will only be available beyond Losar towards Kunzum Pass or may be around it as well. Road conditions will be OK for Innova. Time is OK but rushed a bit as you may know and budget seems OK to me.

  13. Nisha Yadav on

    Hey Dheeraj, I saw in your itenery, Nako is also mentioned. I had heard that in winter roads to Nako are closed mostly.We are planning to go by SUV in March 23, ’17 onwards. Will it be possible to go to Nako at that time ? What you suggest should we attempt to go there ?

    • Nisha, March end should be OK to travel to Nako. The road would be open unless it snows heavily around your dates of travel. Otherwise, the road to KAza from Kinnaur Valley remains open all round the year.

  14. Harsh Singhal on

    Hi Dheeraj. I am planning to do this kaza route in March mid (from 10-19). Just wanted to know how much snow will be there on he road because it will be my first time driving in the snow but I have completed Ladakh via Srinagar road. Any suggestions would be helpful.

    • Harsh, at places there will be some snow on roads especially after crossing the Pin Valley diversion but with careful driving should be manageable. Secondly, the roads to sightseeing places will have more snow on roads and after crossing KAza, it will be closed.

  15. Hi,

    Can you please advise us on how to plan the trip to Spiti valley in March end. We have our own car, planning to have a road trip from Delhi, and we have almost 8-9 days in our hand.

    Moreover, would it be possible to plan the trip in a way that we go from Shimla and come back from Manali?

    Please let me know your views on the same and your suggestions on how to plan the stays as well.

    Thanks.

    • No Sukant, you must have seen the pictures in the article above. It is not possible to make a Manali – Kaza road trip in March. You can see even the roads are pretty much frozen in March and most places within Spiti Valley will also be closed. You can attempt the below plan keeping in mind conditions will be harsh in Spiti in March and hotels will be closed and only options will be home stays, basic food will be available

      Day 1 | Chandigarh – Narkanda – Sarahan
      Day 2 | Sarahan – Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul
      Day 3 | Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul – Nako – – Tabo
      Day 4 | Tabo – Dhangkar – Kaza
      Day 5 | Kaza Rest and Local Sightseeing
      — Ki, Kibber
      Day 6 | Kaza – Hikkim, Komik, Langza circuit – Kaza, Whereever the road is open.
      Day 7 | Kaza – Tabo – Nako – Kalpa
      Day 8 | Kalpa – Narkanda
      Day 9 | Narkanda – Chandigarh

  16. Hi, I am planning to visit Spiti valley on bike for 9 days, starting from 28 Jan 2017 . Since this time there is loads of snow on road would it be possible to go Spiti by Bike ?

  17. Such an Inspiring article to read. I have been to Spiti Valley in the month of May and the snow had melted and still the nature was so beautiful But it seems a snowy Spiti Valley is now on my Bucket List.
    Thanks for the inspiration.

  18. Hi Friend, First of all Thanks for sharing your White Spiti Valley experience, I am planning to do the same in March 2017 on Bike (Royal 350) , do you think its possible with Bike in March Month , if not then when you recommend me to go to see White Spiti on Bike. Thanks, Rahul

        • Changes, you mean? Well, you will have to ride in snow at times. The conditions can be slippery especially in morning rides. The road conditions are not the best as snow starts to melt taking down glaciers with them. Then cold will be too much so you will have to ride with all the protective gear as well as heavy woolens.

  19. Rakesh Koul on

    Just completed the Spiti Valley circuit in June 2016. Following is itinerary and hotels we used. Others planning the trip may find the information useful.

    Itineraries + Hotels
    ———————
    (Almost all hotels done through makemytrip.com, because of pricing and flexibility of cancellation). Yes makemytrip.com pricing can be lower than the hotel direct prices and makemytrip often pays the hotel owners full money, more than what you paid to makemytrip.

    Day 1 | Sat 18-JUN: Chandigarh to Chail. [Total Distance: 100km]. Started from CHD at around 6pm. Time: 4+ hours. Road is very congested, narrow at times.
    Hotel Chail Residency, Chail
    Highly recommended. Very hospitable. Great rooms. Great food.
    Dinner at “The Red Capsicum”, 45 min before Chail on the highway

    Day 2 | Sun 19-JUN: Hotel Chail – Rakcham (Total Distance: 238km)
    Hotel Apple Pie, Rakchham
    Recommended, Little expensive (Vs. quality). Owner: Mukesh, a terrific guy. Great food, may ask him to add more salt to food 🙂
    Once you cross Rampur, the road will quickly cease to exist at most of the occasions. When you again start seeing a decent road is on Rohtang Pass – Manali sector. You will see some patches of decent road now and then, but mostly it is unpaved at the best and rocky at the worst. Sometimes no road, you will wonder if it is a NH, or SH road. And sometimes, it is just nallah (water flowing over the rocks)

    Day 3 | Mon 20-JUN: Rakcham – Chitkul – Sangla – Kalpa (Total Distance: 83km)
    Hotel Apple Pie, KALPA
    Highly recommended, We got rooms with great views. Owner: Aman, a terrific guy. I liked this hotel a tad better than the Rakcham one. Both hotels have the same name and are owned by same business partners.
    Chhitkul is one of the better sections of this entire trip. Reserve time for this spot.
    On the way to Chhitkul, there is a police checkpost. Car will be stopped there, when you do reach there, stop there. There are great photography spots there. Our driver didn’t intend to stop there.
    Chhitkul village is awesome. There is a school here, and a waterfront next to it. Great area for pictures.

    Hotel claims wi-fi but the service isn’t there.

    Day 4 | Tue 21-JUN: Kalpa – Khab – Nako – (Sumdo) – Tabo (Total Distance: 180 km)
    Hotel Trojan, Tabo
    Recommended. We initially didn’t plan to stay in Tabo, instead had plans to go up to Kaza. but our driver didn’t recommend doing that. We made a last min stay in Tabo & canceled Kaza hotel. This hotel is very basic compared to the other hotels on the trip, but because of the hospitability and service, I rate it as 4.5/5. At the price we got it for, plus the service, it was a great deal.
    Tabo Monastery is good. Some shopping opportunities here.

    Day 5 | Tue 22-JUN: Tabo – Dhankar Monastery – Pin Valley (up to Sagnam village)- Kaza
    Lunch at Tashi Delek Restaurant near Dhankar Monastery
    Hotel Deyzor, KAZA
    Highly (highly) recommended. The best hotel of the trip (cost vs. quality). Owner: Karan. Ask him his story; well it is kind of written in the hotel rooms, but you should talk to him. Very inspiring.
    Kaza Monastery is great. Pin Valley area is good. We found a riverside approach, where kid had great time.
    WiFi not existent, though the hotel claims. I tried for hours and got synced once.

    Day 6 | Thu 23-JUN: Kaza – Langza – Komik – Hikkim – Key- Kibber – Kaza (Total Distance: 79km)
    Hotel Deyzor, KAZA
    I liked Komik, Langza and Hikkim. I didn’t find it worth going to Kibber. Key Monastery was good

    Day 7 | Fri 24-JUN: Kaza – Kunzum Pass – Bat(t)al – Rohtang La (Pass) – Manali, excluded Chandra Taal. (Total Distance: 202km)
    Hotel Silmog Gardern, Manali
    Highly recommended. Very good hotel and terrific restaurant and service. Little pricey, but with the makemytrip discount, it was a great deal for us. Loved food here.
    Drive time: 13 hours. Entering Manali city in the evening is a big bottleneck.
    Left Kaza at 6AM, reached Manali 7:30PM.
    Breakfast at Samson G Cafe Losar (2 hours from Kaza — best service and best breakfast in the circuit).

    Day 8 | Sat 25-JUN: Manali – Chandigarh
    Drive time: 12 hours.

    Overall perspective on the trip:
    a. Drive times are very long because of road conditions. Sometimes you will feel you are driving, driving and driving, and not getting time to see enough. We had a 7-day trip, and it was tight.
    b. Number of visitors in the area is very limited. Mostly adventure seekers. Less of family folks. We were traveling as a family – adults, kid, and older people. I don’t think there are more than 100 people doing this circuit on one day.
    c. Don’t go to this area without BSNL Phones. I knew about that, so we were carrying 2 BSNL Phones, 1 reliance and 2 IDEA phones. Only BSNL Phones worked in most of the trip. BSNL Phone connectivity: Voice connectivity at most of the places on the circuit, except Kibber, Kee, Hokkim. BSNL Edge/3G Data connectivity in Kalpa, sangla, Chail, Losar, Tabo (limited)…
    d. Food was the least of the concern on the trip. Food was very good in the whole sector. Our driver (Vinkal Handa) knew great eating places at every single place.
    e. Weather – Don’t go by what weather.com says. The area is dry, doesn’t rain (in June), sun was bright and it was warm. We were carrying clothes for low temperature and we didn’t use them even once on the whole trip.
    f. Zoomcar Vs. Taxi – We had initially planned to take a zoomcar + 1 taxi. Eventually some of the folks couldn’t make to the trip, so we canceled zoomcar. We saw 3-4 zoomcars running on the circuit. You can drive it if you are comfortable. I am comfortable and wanted to drive as an adventure, but at the end of the trip, I wouldn’t recommend doing it. Delegate that job to the taxi driver. Taxi’s are not that expensive, keeping in mind what a mess the roads are, and how much hard work drivers do. I won’t drive my car on this route for 7 days for that much money.
    g. For Photographers: I am not a professional photographer, but like to spend some time with photography, and I don’t like it when I don’t get quality time taking pictures. You will get some time to take pictures, but because of ultra long drive times, your taxi driver will be more focused on meeting deadlines. We had to strike a deal with Vinkal (driver) that we will do some “from the car window” photography. I had some fancy camera + lenses + tripod with me. But most of my photography ended up being quick one only. Chhitkul was an exception where you will get time to spend time. If you are interested to see some pictures from the trip, here is the link: http://www.apni.pictures/LandscapesByLocation/Spiti-Valley/ (hopefully I am not violating DoW terms and conditions by posting external links)

    h. Talk to local village residents, lamas, local travelers. I wasn’t planning to invest time in that much but because of the company I had, I ended up doing lot of that. Many of them obliged with quality photos also:). You will get to taste local tea, and other stuff, if you connect.
    i. Food at most of the places will be prepared on demand, AFTER you order, so factor in that time.
    j. Altitude Sickness: I started feeling it in Chhitkul area and others in the group started feeling in Kaza area. Nevertheless you will have that problem. Sometimes simple walking will make you feel breathless. Nothing extra-ordinary or unbearable. We were ages 9, few folks in early 40’s and 1 around 70.
    k. The whole area is extremely dusty. If you have dust allergy, you need to be careful, or plan for it. You can’t drive with windows open unless you are OK breathing very dusty air.
    l. Overall, this area is for adventure seekers not necessarily for people who wants to see maximum landscape beauty in least amount of time and rush back. You have to be able to tolerate things moving forward at ultra-slow pace.
    m. And then the tire punctures. We had 2 and Vinkal was quick in resolving those. Keep in mind, drivers can’t plan for too many punctures. They assume 2-3 incidents on the circuit. We were lucky to have only 2. We did the most treachorous part of the trip (Losar – Kunzum – Battal – Rohtang) section without a spare. Some people in the car were tense.
    n. Last but not the least – our taxi driver: Vinkal Handa – very knowledgeable, networked, and patient driver. Highly highly recommended. His Innova’s are a little old though. Being diesel cars, these are underpowered and have issues runnning on the circuit with AC on. Yes, you will need AC much more frequently than you think you may (in summer months). Also diesel cars seem to emit lot of diesel smell.

  20. Hi Dheeraj,

    We are planning to visit to Spiti in First week of july from Manali side. Do we need permit for Rohtang Pass?

  21. Hi,
    I am planning to visit Kinnaur Lahaul and Spiti from June 25-1st july. How will be weather condition? Is monsoon expected to arrive at that time? During this time bike trip can be doable?

    Thanks,
    Arghya

      • Hi Dheeraj,

        My itenerary is as follows
        Day (1) 24 june. pick from Chandigarh to shimla NH
        Day (2) 25 .shimla to Sarahan NH
        Day (3)26 .Sarahan to sangla NH
        Day (4)27sangla to chhitkul to Kalpa NH
        Day (5)28 Kalpa to tabo NH
        Day (6)29 tabo to kaza via dhankar NH
        Day (7)30 kaza to local NH
        Day (8)1 kaza to chandertal NH
        Day (9)2 chandertal to Manali NH
        Day (10) 3 Manali to Chandigarh
        My queries are
        1. Expected weather- shluld I expect monsoon in its full fledge
        2. Is bike riding possible given in this condition?

        • In August, it is all monsoon, In september it fades out and you have amazing fall colors, In July it is mix of rains and dry spells. Your plan looks OK to me.

  22. Naim ahmad on

    What is the weather in kaza,nako,kappa,kargil and how is the road dheraj tthhere
    Plz let me I want go Leah laddhak too my motorbike so plz lett me know
    Start from 10june what you recommended?

  23. Harish Shah on

    Hello fellow traveller,

    Looking for great adventure?
    Join me on in-depth tour of Spiti Valley.
    17 days from Chandigarh to Chandigarh.
    Starting 10th July 2016.
    Route: Shimla-Spiti (14 days)-Dharmasala (via Manali)-Chandigarh
    Using private vehicle throughout the 17 days.

    Harish

  24. Hi Dheeraj (and other expert travelers on this forum).
    I have been following the forum for a while, but this is the first post, I made. I am looking for some feedback on my Spiti valley trip itinerary in June:

    June 18: Chandigarh – Chail, Stay in Chail
    June 19: Chail – Sangla – Chitkul, Stay in Sangla.
    June 20: Chitkul – Sangla – Kalpa, Stay in Kalpa
    June 21 – Kalpa – Khab – Nako – (Sumdo) – Tabo – Kaza, Stay in Kaza (Didn’t get hotels in Tabo)
    June 22 & 23 – Stay in Kaza, to cover Tabo – Dhankar – Dhankar Lake – Langza -Komik – Hikkim – Key- Kibber
    (I have 3 night stay in Kaza).

    June 24: Kaza – Manali, Stay in Manali
    June 25 – Manali – Chandigarh

    Am I underestimating some sections of the area?

    Few other questions:
    – Any known roadblocks on the entire circle, that are expected to last till mid June.
    – We have 1 local Spiti valley taxi and 1 zoomcar from Chandigarh to drive a total of 8-9 people in 2 cars. Any issues with that plan?

    Thanks in advance.
    –Rakesh

      • Thanks Dheeraj. Appreciate your response. Are there any known roadblocks on the entire circle, that are expected to last till mid June? Somebody was telling me about road closures, but I suspect those are pre-summer seasonal closures.

        • Mid June shall be fine. Do leave early in the day from Kaza to Manali as water crossings will be ferocious in the day time on that route.

  25. Arun Narayan on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    This is just a note to say THANK YOU!! DOW helped us a whole lot with planning a self drive/biking trip to Spiti which we did between 15th and 25th of April this year.
    What a trip it was!!! It took us about a week to get back and get over the sheer excitement and hangover of the trip. God was kind and blessed us with snow fall the 1st night that we spent in Kaza… resulting in a heavenly view that we got from our hotel room at The Deyzor (which Karan opened just for our group!).
    Now i realise what you meant by WHITE SPITI… pure and unadultrated heaven on earth!

    For those who have not been there… this is a MUST DO on your list of places in the Himalayas. The drives are pretty challenging and conditions can get pretty harsh esp when going off season. But, the people in the region are really friendly and helpful by nature. That really takes the edge off the conditions.

    Thank you so much Dheeraj, for all the inputs you have been updating on the site… helped us immensly with the planning.

    Cheers
    Arun

    • Dear Arun,

      This is exactly what I had in mind. Hope you wont mind helping me out on a few doubts…
      1. How was the weather (tolerable on a bike)?
      2. Is it tricky riding a bike in those months in that region?
      3. What about food/accomodation? Did you need to do tenting/cooking your own food anywhere?
      4. Any advice you would have for a person wanting to ride it out rather than drive, in this region?

      Sorry about the many questions, and though I have been to Ladakh, this seems like a different ball game, especially with the snow.

  26. Hi Dheeraj.
    Last year in July 2015 I had been to Leh-Ladakh and followed the DoW blog. It was really very helpful in planning our trip. We tackled AMS in advance as per your tips and suggestions.
    This year july 2016 I along with my friends are planning to visit Spiti valley. But as compared to last year. Our days have been reduced. It’s just 4 to 5days. We are planning for a round trip from Shimla to Spiti and end in Manali. Ex Shimla to Manali would be for 6days. Can you suggest a tour plan from Shimla to Manali? Also place to visit and Oracle in spiti valley.

    • You can try below:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Narkanda
      Day 2 | Narkanda – Kalpa
      Day 3 | Kalpa – Nako – Nako Lake – Geyu Mummy – Tabo
      Day 4 | Tabo – Dhankar – Dhankar Lake – Pin Valley (Mudh Village) – Kaza
      Day 5 | Kaza Local Sightseeing 
      — Ki, Kibber, Gette, Tashigang in the second half of the day
      — Hikkim, Komik, Langza circuit 
      Day 6 | Kaza – Kunzum Pass – Chandratal
      Day 7 | Chandratal – Manali

  27. Arijit Ghosh on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are driving from Bangalore to somewhere in the North starting April 30. Our plans of doing Delhi-Patnitop-Sonmarg-Leh is canceled because I heard that road is closed due to snowfall. So we want to do Spiti, if possible. Our dates are: May 3 to May 16 (Delhi to Delhi). Can be extended by a day or two in case there are landslides. How far can we go around May? If we can’t do the circuit (back via Manali), we can go as far as we can and come back. Can you help us with this?

    Thanks and regards,
    Arijit

    • Hello Arijit,

      Yes, Spiti Valley will be open form Kinnaur Valley route and you can come back from the same route. You will not be able to complete the circuit to Manali but you will be able to visit almost everything in Spiti Valley except Chandratal.

  28. It’s a well-written blog. I want to know the distance between spiti and kasol. I’ve heard lots about kasol and hence, I wish to visit the two places in the month of July.

    • Linsiya, it will take one very long day to reach Kaza from Kasol, other wise you can halt night at Solang Valley after Manali Or at Vashishth and then go to Kaza the next day. Keep 6-8 days at least fora trip to Spiti.

  29. Divjot Singh on

    Hello dheeraj.

    What if we take yamunagar-paonta sahib-chopal-narkanda route. Or paonta sahib-nerwa-narkanda route.

    What are the road conditions in that part of Himalayas?

    • Dibjyot, though the conditions are not super great but they are not bad either. You can try that route, mostly it will be OK OK conditions.

  30. Hi Dheeraj,

    We are planning to drive to Spiti valley from Chandigarh in the first week of April. We have 7 days in hand and plan to take an SUV. Do you think the trip is doable at this time?

  31. HUNNY SINGH on

    yoo..supp Dheeraj
    First of all thanx alot for providing so much info,ya doing great job…
    Me and 2 of ma friends are planning to go spiti valley,we have RE CLASSIC 350 & PULSAR 200NS,i am from KURUKSHETRA & we have 5/6 days in hand …we gonna start on 25 March,2016 ….is there any rainfall problem…can you suggest about the route and wheather….

    • Hunny, The weather sites are showing rains in Kinnaur during that time of the March when you are planning the trip and with rains in Kinnaur, I will not advice you to make such a trip and 6 days will be very tight for Spiti Valley as a winter trip.

      • HUNNY SINGH on

        Hii Dheeraj,
        thnx for the advice bro….so i think we have to increase our days and may be dàte too…so when should we go coz we dont have time in April…ma Boss gonna kill me …and i am dying to go there … suggest me …

        Warm Regards
        Hunny

  32. Dear Dheeraj,

    We are planning to do entire circuit starting from Shimla on 14th June and ending at Manali on 24 June. Just wanted to know whether by this time road of Kunzum pass from Kaza to Manali would be open? Also would appreciate if you can give us past dates when kunzum pass has opened in June for last 3-4 years so accordingly we will get an idea and we can plan.

    Regards,
    Dharman Mehta

    • Dharman, there are high chances that roads this year due to lack of snow in Himalayas will be open at that time you are planning to travel between Kaza – Manali. You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Spiti Valley followed by many travellers including me at the link here for 10-11 days: Most Common Itinerary for Spiti Valley.

      • Chinmay Gandre on

        Hi Dheeraj,
        Awesome insights u have posted on this webpage. Really grateful to u for this.

        I am planning to travel on 19th March 2016 .. i am going to hire a self drive car from Delhi. I will be travelling with my wife.

        Plan is to reach till Kufri on 19th eve/late night.
        Then leave early morning and reach Kalpa before evening.

        I will rent a diesel swift.. so is Kalpa feasible..

        I also want to ask u if kalpa>kaza(overnight stay)>kalpa feasible in the next two/three days. I am thinking of traveling on a hrtc bus or a taxi/jeep for this part as taking a rented self drive swift to these areas seems risky ( i will keep swift at Kalpa).

        Warm Regards
        Chinmay Gandre

        • Kalpa can be done in a swift, there might be some tricky sections, so drive with care and caution. It is going to be very hectic and with small car much more as the speed will be low. With HRTC bus it will take about 10 hrs to reach Kaza from Kalpa and then again 7 AM you need to be back on 10 Hrs journey? Will advice make a trip when you have some time on hand, visit Chitkul instead.

        • Chinmay Gandre on

          Hi

          I traveled from Chandigarh to Narkanda to Kalpa and Kalpa to Sangla n back…. Awesome experience… Roads are in much better conditions than i though.. Till Wangtoo Roads were in fact in super good conditions.,.. n railing were there on the sides in most of the cases…. After Wangtoo.. Road is rough but not risky.. Just two roads were difficult for me.. Narkanda to Mount Hatu and from Kalpa To Roghi village as the fall is very steep with no railing n narrow road…
          Unfortunately due to lack of time didnt go to Kaza…

          Thanks

          Chinmay Gandre

        • Chinmay, thanks for sharing the road condtions in Kinnaur Valley. Glad to know that you had a wonderful experience. If possible, try and share your Himalayan experience with us at DoW – Himalayan Travel Community as Photo Tale or Travel Tale Or your reviews of the hotels/guest houses where you stayed or dhabhas/restaurants you ate food on your trip… All this might help others planning the similar trip too 🙂 🙂

  33. Hi Dheeraj,

    Spiti Valley – 18th Dec to 26th Dec 2015. Is this possible on my Swift ?

    I did Spiti in Oct last year. It was great. Not sure about December? Please suggest.

    Best Regards
    Dev

    • Hi Dev,

      this is not the right time for a trip to Spiti Valley unless you are OK with extreme harsh conditions of winters and cold beyond Kinnaur, OK with washrooms with no water, OK with very basic food and OK with very basic stay. On top of it, in case it snows and you are in Spiti, the chances of getting stuck for a couple days to couple of weeks is quite a possibility. Last year my friend went and was stuck there for almost two weeks. Though in december things willjust be harsh and chances of that much snowfall is less BUT you cannot discount it completely. So, take a wise risk only I will say 🙂

    • Sumit Batabyal on

      Dear Dheeraj,
      Sumit here. We are planning to travel to Kaza during 3rd week of February 2016. Need your advise . Please revert.
      Rgds,
      Sumit Batabyal

  34. gopinath reddy on

    Hi Dheeraj sharma,

    We r planing to stay @ batal in the coming week.
    can you please suggest me some hotel and provide its contact number.?

    Thank you

  35. Thankx Dheeraj for the confirmation.

    SO is it suitbale to ride towards spiti tommrrow on Motorcycles???

    • Bhai lower hills are showing all rains throughout next week while Spiti Valley does not show much rains. So, you will surely face some hassles for sure in lower hills brother 🙁

    • ANUPAM, I had a word again up there in Spiti. Roads have been opened and cars have reached from both Manali side as well as Tabo side. The cloudburst occured couple of days back and now the roads are through plus water has also receded from the nallahs

    • Hi Dheeraj ,

      We are 8/10 boys going on trip with our bikes delhi – spiti vally .could you please suggest us 18sep -24sep is the right time to go there ..and what ol thing we should carry with us ..

  36. We have planned for a road trip from delhi to spiti valley via shimla-narkanda-sangla-tabo-kaza-batal-manali-shimla-delhi.
    Heard a news about cloudburst at spiti valley yesterday…
    Could you suggest about the road and weather condition about this route?
    is it safe to travel tomorrow towards spiti?

      • It was in hindustan times hindi paper and also its on “himvani” website

        • Anupam, yes, you are right bhai !! Just had a word in Spiti with one of the locals that last evening it happened near losar as water came gushing through on stream and has spoiled few houses too. Cars have not come today up there as per him but says should resume. Unable to get connected with someone in Losar.

  37. Hi DHEERAJ ,
    Thanks a lot for write up ,you are doing a great job
    I am planning to travel to spiti in august first week via manali nd i have 6 to 7 days .
    is it a good time to travel as i heard about bad road condition bz of rain nd landslide too ?
    I am a travel photographer and want to explore spiti , can you please help me plan my trip nd give me trip itinerary.
    What would be the best mode of travel from manali to kaza , nd if i want to explore spiti (only spiti )by cycle where can i get the cycle on rent ?
    thanks on advance

    • Manish, lower hills until you reach Spiti will have to suffer monsoon hassles for sure. You can try following plan in 6-7 days in hand:

      Day 1 : Reach Manali by overnight volvo of 28 and stay overnight at Solang Valley as preferred for acclimatization
      Day 2 : Manali / Solang – Kaza
      Day 3 : Kaza – Dhangkar – Tabo – Kaza OR Kaza – Langza – Komik – Hikkim – Kaza
      Day 4 : Kaza – Ki – Kibber – Chandratal
      Day 5 : Chandratal – Manali
      Day 6 : Chill around Manali and take evening Volvo
      Day 7 : Reach Delhi by overnight Volvo from Manali

  38. ivy kriste on

    Thank you for sharing your experiences in such a detailed way. you are really encouraging us to travel.

    • Gagan, Regarding being member or joining DoW, there is no specific criteria we define except: If you are aligned with DoW Vision and DoW Causes and of course you like the spirit of Adventure plus love Himalayas and travel up there, you can be an active member of the DoW community and participate at the link https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/india/ … It can be accessed over mobile app of all platforms too, on the move or while traveling, details of which you can see in the announcement section of the community in above link.

      We share all the information about Himalayan Travel, share each other experiences, help each other build travel plans for Himalayas up there only. We publish all meets including Delhi Meets for Travel Chats on Himalayas as well as Himalayan Mega Meet for DoW Causes that happens once a year, in the community only. All active members are present in community, share experiences, guide others and reviews hotels/eating joints of Himalayas so that we can build up more knowledge together by sharing with each other and helping each other out for travel to Himalayas.

      Please register there and start participating. Join us over Delhi Mini Meets if you around here, next is going to happen in June, check events section. Once a year we call a mega meet where we all travel to Himalayas together in a large group and execute various DoW Causes to spread smiles up there in Himalayas.

      More closely & actively you participate in the DwD Community, more it will make you feel to be part of DwD Community 🙂

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  39. Hi Dheeraj because of devilonwheels people are gaining so much knowledge about these offbeat locations. Your passion towards mountains is realy admiring.

    I would like to travel to kalpa with my wife and 4 year old daughter. I shall be oblidged to have your guidence.

    I will be traveling from June 9th 2105. Below is the plan

    Day 1 Shimla to Sarahan

    Day 2 Sarahan to Sangla

    Day 3 Sangla – Chitkul – Sangla

    Day 4 Sangla to Kalpa

    Day 5 Kalpa

    Day 6 Kalpa to Fagu

    Day 7 Fagu

    Day 8 Fagu to Kalka

    I will be renting a vehicle from shimla for 8 days, which vehicle do you suggest. ?

    Weather from 9th june to 15 june , is it a good time of the year to enjoy these places ?

    Traveling with 4 year old is ok ?

    • Ashish thanks for the kind words. Just that you should make Kalpa to Narkanda to shorten up. Fagu does not have much to offer, so stay at Narkanda and then move to Chail and finally to Fagu. Regarding vehicle you can get an Indica for yourself which will cost less as well. June is decent time to visit but all depends upon rains as at time June also gets rain.

  40. Sanjay Vaid on

    Dear Dheeraj,
    Finished the road trip from Delhi to Kaza and back last week ( 23rd to 27th March 2015). Humbled hugely as always by the Mighty Himalayas as well as the greatest road on earth for driving : the Hindustan-Tibet highway. This was a pure driving trip so we were prepared to be on the road for hours each day..enjoying sights never seen before till we reached pristine white Spiti valley. Thanks to you first because the whole thing started after reading your narration of the trip last year.
    Just some road updates and tips:
    1. As you already mentioned : for a trip to that side of Himachal at this time of the year ie March – be prepared for really really harsh unforgiving conditions / extremely unpredictable weather / unexpected road blocks / delays and definitely expect dangerous driving conditions.
    2. Certainly do not mean to scare anyone but we encountered rani nallah type of situation before Tapri / completely washed out half a bridge after Tapri ( had to postpone crossing the river to early morning when water level was low), lots of shooting stones and blocks of ice falling around us (luckily managed to avoid all except the really small ones ), icy slippery road conditions just before Kaza ( car actually skidded off the tyre ruts once).. and finally a fresh avalanche of snow right on a completely clear stretch of road on way down from Nako on return journey .
    3. Road conditions very poor on either side of Powari ,starts from Wangtoo on Delhi side and continues till @ 3 hours after Powari. But the bridge had been completely restored to normal on our return journey.So though bad…definitely driveable.
    4. Tapri : a. eat at Pappu’s dhaba on left side of the road ( excellent stuff..hugely helpful guy himself ..opened up a HP Electricity Board office for us to sleep in that night since the town was packed since 10.00am due to the bridge issue). Note: Carrying good ground mats and sleeping bags must for the trip. b. Fill up vehicle here unless you are going to Peo ( pump at Powari is not working and Peo pump starts only after 10.00am)
    5. We had news in Solan about block around Khab but it was open,however poor road conditions and no habitation. Climb to Nako : road is good but snow on roadside / shooting stone etc so be very careful ( left side passengers must constantly look up the mountain and alert the driver.) Do NOT miss a stop at Nako for a walk to the frozen lake and around the picturesque village.But the village was shut down..not even tea was available.Onwards to Tabo the road still ok.
    6. Tabo to Kaza : very dangerous road conditions : road piled up with fallen stones / ice blocks / huge water puddles with frost forming on top / icy roads with tyre rut tracks / extremely slippery / skid prone.We did this very very slowly for the last 20 kms or so and reached Kaza in total darkness and freezing subsub zero temperatures with 10-12 feet high walls of snow on both sides reflecting the car lights. Awesome..but scary as well !
    7. Night stay was at Kunzum Homestay ( Mr Anzim and his mother) about 10 minutes walk at night from the petrol pump.Superb place to stay..very very warm home and hearts !!
    8. Breathtaking sights of White Spiti next day. Wanted to go to Kibber but road was not yet opened.Was open till Ki but considering previous day experiences did not want to take a risk as all was well by God’s and the mountains’s grace.
    9. Diesel vehicles will need defreezing by use of stove for @30 minutes right under fuel pump area. Should not have a problem after that but do not leave Kaza without revving the car enough and seeing that it does not stall in high revs.
    10. Return journey pretty much the same except many more of shooting stones / ice boulders some of which cracked on road few feet ahead of us and ofcourse the avalanche.
    11. Night halt at HP PWD rest house at Puh, 5-6 kms upwards detour from the highway : superb amenities with hot water in geyser / western style toilets and dal/rice/roti for dinner.
    That’s pretty much it..but memories will live for ever !!
    Thanks again for all your help,
    Sanjay

    • Thank you so very much Sanjay for sharing the whole experience with us here. I must say I feel jitters reading your experience than what I actually experienced it. May be the beauty of the surroundings gives us that strength of continuing the journey no matter what challenges are faced. And such memories stay forever 🙂

      • surya kant on

        Hi..dheeraj.thanks for ur suggestions.as i discused with u earlier.our group is going on bike trip for kinnaur valley on 15th april to 20th april…what is your suggestions shell we postpond our programme or continue with that

        • surya kant on

          Hii..dheeraj…sorry im bothering you with so many quaries…bt we are scared about the rains n landslide after shimla to kalpa n sangla..wt u suggest about the precautions we should take for bike trip.we are going on 15 april as we discussed earlier

        • Surya, that is the risk that you have to take. Start all your days early, as much as you can, the later you leave, the sun goes up and snow melts. Also the wind speed increases causing shooting stones. Hence, the early you will leave, the less snow will melt. If the weather is gloomy and it is drizzling or light snowing in Spiti, DO NOT move beyond Kaza because the stretches near Mane and Tabo has slopes which causes shooting stones during that time. So, take care there. You need to watch out between Tabo and Kaza. Also between Shialkhar – Sumdo villages.

  41. Kinnaur and Kaza mostly remain unexplored due to accessibility issues. I have been to Kinnaur valley the views were stunning but the journey was very tiring especially road from narkanda to rampur was very bad. I am soon planning to blog about it my blog

  42. Hi Dheeraj,
    Am planning the trip to Kaza starting from Delhi on 24th March as per your advice.Right now it’s the wife and me and our Scorpio but once I’ve finalized the itineary I will put it to the other people in our group.I had a few questions if you don’t mind..
    1. What time of March was your trip ? Will we be able to experience that white cloak over the landscape? I know it’s always unpredictable but we’re driving from Pune only for this..so I thought to ask.
    2. Our target is to hit Kaza as soon as possible first and then think about side trips ( maybe to Kibber for a day since we were there in October..and Rekong peo on way back..as we both thought it was a lovely place). So keeping this in mind what should our itineary look like ?
    If we leave Delhi @5.00 am can we target Kalpa for 1st night halt or is Rampur more realistic ?
    Is it possible to make it to Kaza by next evening in either case ? or should we draw it out over three days ?
    3. What would our options be of staying en route and then in Kaza / Kibber / Rekongpeo ( if we can make it) at that time of the year? Are there some contact numbers etc availabe of local people who may be able to help out?
    4. Do we need stuff like snowchains on tyres etc to travel on any sectors ? I have no experience of this .My Scorpio is a 4WD though.I do know we might need a small heater for the fuel pump defreezing which may be needed.
    Sorry for so many questions..but you the maan buddy..!!
    Regards,
    Sanjay

    • Guess I replied to other same comments in the morning. Actually, going through little over burden work in office so unable to reply faster but targetiing to reply all within at max. 3-4 days. From March, will fall back to usual 36-48 hrs reply period 🙂

      • SANJAY VAID on

        Hi Dheeraj,
        As mentioned earlier we have planned our departure from Delhi for Kaza on 23rd March..but I believe the road ahead of Shimla is now closed. Will there be any way to know if this will open up in next 10 days? This trip we have planned to start our DoW cause participation with GYAN and will try to cover atleast two of the smaller villages mentioned in your website list.
        Please let me know if you have any information on road status.
        Regards,
        Sanjay

        • Hello Sanjay,

          The roads have opened but again close and open again based on the landslides. As per last week status it was quite risky affair. Let’s see what happens in next 10 days as it is expected to snow again in this week or so.

          I will update the road status again in few days.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  43. sanjayvaid1962 on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    You probably will not even remember me..but I made the road trip of my life this October based on your suggestions a couple of years ago.Finally did the Delhi – Manali – Rohtang – Gramphu – Kaza Kibber – Rekongpeo – Shimla – Delhi trip and it was awesome.Always thought the Leh-Manali drive was the ultimate one,but this beats it hands down !! Also climbed Mt.Kanamo from Kibber : a 4-5 days short expedition break :-)). I thought I had finally scratched that road trip itch,but came upon a video of some guys doing the trip the other way around in winter and then also read the narration of your trip.Now I want to go back there again and experience that magical heaven-like place in the winter.I know right now is not really the time,but when would be the earliest I could do this,you think ? at least up to Kaza. I have a Scorpio 4WD and an 8W crazy bug in my head.Nothing compared to you,but chief ! So, waiting for your advice..would like to go before the crowds start..am OK with very very basic amenities for living and food.Thanks once again.Sanjay.

  44. Upamanyu Roy on

    I am travelling to Tribal circuit of HP from 30th Sept-12 Oct. I will visit starting from
    Chandigarh – Manikaran and stay on 30th.

    Manikaran to manali – via naggar ,jagatsukh valley on 31st &stay at manali.

    Manali – keylong via -rohtang la on 1st oct and stay.

    Keylong to chandratal on 2nd oct and stay at own camp.

    Chandratal – kaza via losar.kunzum la on 3rd oct.

    Kaza – ki,kibber at morning , langza hikkim in evening 0n 4th and stay.

    Kaza- nako ,via tabo on 5th and stay.

    Nako to kalpa -via puh,reckong peo and stay on 6th.

    Kalpa on 7th.

    Kalpa to chitkul on 8th and stay.

    chitkul to sangla on 9th ,and stay at chitkul via raksham valley.

    chitkul to sarahan on 10 th via nilchar on . 11 th sarahan to Narkanda , 12 th back to chandigarh..

    Iam travelling with my 56 year old mom and 19 year old brother. Can suggest me if my plan is right and weather and road updates ? also medicines i need to carry as emergency. Waiting patiently to hear you soon.

    • Hello Upamanyu,

      Plan looks fine with some minor alterations below:
      Manikaran to manali – via naggar ,jagatsukh valley on 31st &stay at manali.
      Manali – Sissu Hotel Triveni Or Khoksar via -rohtang la on 1st oct and stay.No need to go to Keylong and then come back again.
      Keylong to chandratal to Kaza. Staying overnight at Chandratal with family that late in season is something I will not go for.
      Kaza and around, visit Ki, Kibber, Gette or take rest in Kaza if feeling not well 3rd oct.
      Kaza – langza – Komik – hikkim circuit 4th and stay.
      Kaza – Dhangkar – Tabo – Nako, via tabo on 5th and stay.
      Nako to kalpa – via puh,reckong peo and stay on 6th.
      Kalpa on 7th.
      Kalpa to chitkul on 8th and stay.
      chitkul to sangla on 9th ,and stay at chitkul via raksham valley.
      chitkul to sarahan on 10 th via nilchar on .
      11 th sarahan to Narkanda , 12 th back to chandigarh..

      Plan is good roads conditions as usual are just OK types and at places bad upto you exit Kinnaur Valley. Within Spiti, in general roads are fine. Regarding list of thing to carry check: List of things to carry when you go on trip

      • Upamanyu Roy on

        Thanks a ton Dheeraj for your reply. I have made some alterations according to you suggested.

        Manali to keylong and we will go upto bara lacha .

        next day we will go to chandratal from keylong and have a stay losar after visiting chandratal.

        on 4th noon from losar we will reach at kaza . 4th evening we will go to ki -kibber route. and on 5th morning we will go to comic route. 5th evening we will go mud village route and have a stay at tabo. from tabo we will back again to dhankar monastery and will then go to nako.

        in kalpa also we will have trip to kanam and morang village. that is all from me.

        I donno how to thank you. but can you provide me any link that can give me an idea of the road distances and time span. specially keylong to chandratal and losar timings.

        thank you in future if i can join dow and can share my ideas with dow then how to proceed please mention. I am a mountaineer . travelled across Uttarkhand ,leh , arunachal. travelled in all forests of india but spared thi s part of himachal. i also travelled abroad for hiking . thanks once again for your prime suggestions.

        • You can cover Dhangkar while coming from Mud Village and then go over and rest at Tabo. From there go towards Nako and exit in Kinnaur

          Road distance are here available in the charts or altitude / distance graphs present under the link: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/spiti-valley-via-kinnaur-how-to-plan-your-journey/ and https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/spiti-valley-via-manali-how-to-plan-your-journey/

          Keylong to Chandratal will be like 5-6.5 Hrs of drive. Losar to Kaza is about 2 Hrs, Chandratal to Losar is about 2 Hrs.

          You can surely Join DwD Community right today at https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/india where we as passionate Himalayan lovers are doing some wonderful work by togetherness and spreading smiles in Himalayas for the last one year or so now. Since, you are an avid traveler and have mapped to most remote Himalayan places, we would be more than happy to have you in the community and see what all we can do together to materialize the vision of DoW to spread smiles in Himalayas and at the same time benefit Himalayan Lives and Travellers up there… there are many active lovers up there doing some awesome work towards these little causes in promotion of Responsible Travel… Feel free to join anytime.

          Since, community is grown bigger, we are also looking forward to expand the core team… So, if you can contribute, nothing like it and who knows you end up with this amazing effort for the betterment of Himalayas. You can mail me too and we can chat over phone in case you be interested in active participation in the community 🙂 🙂

        • You can cover Dhangkar while coming from Mud Village and then go over and rest at Tabo. From there go towards Nako and exit in Kinnaur

          I donno how to thank you. but can you provide me any link that can give me an idea of the road distances and time span. specially keylong to chandratal and losar timings.

          Road distance are here available in the charts or altitude / distance graphs present under the link: https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/spiti-valley-via-kinnaur-how-to-plan-your-journey/ and https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/spiti-valley-via-manali-how-to-plan-your-journey/

          Keylong to Chandratal will be like 5-6.5 Hrs of drive. Losar to Kaza is about 2 Hrs, Chandratal to Losar is about 2 Hrs.

          You can surely Join DwD Community right today at https://discoverwithdheeraj.com/india where we as passionate Himalayan lovers are doing some wonderful work by togetherness and spreading smiles in Himalayas for the last one year or so now. Since, you are an avid traveler and have mapped to most remote Himalayan places, we would be more than happy to have you in the community and see what all we can do together to materialize the vision of DoW to spread smiles in Himalayas and at the same time benefit Himalayan Lives and Travellers up there… there are many active lovers up there doing some awesome work towards these little causes in promotion of Responsible Travel… Feel free to join anytime.

          Since, community is grown bigger, we are also looking forward to expand the core team… So, if you can contribute, nothing like it and who knows you end up with this amazing effort for the betterment of Himalayas. You can mail me too and we can chat over phone in case you be interested in active participation in the community 🙂 🙂

        • Upamanyu Roy on

          Many thanks dheeraj. I am from Kolkata,west bengal.

          will surely meet you one day. now I have registered with DOW according to the link you provided. I want share a view if there is choice we can talk about different mountain ranges,including himalaya .that would also be great.

        • Upamanyu, yeah, saw that and you are most welcome. For sure, currently we have a Misc. section where in all other things go in. Once we have similar content up there, we can surely create forums on to it if required and interest getting developed among people in future. However, we would like to be more focused on our persistent efforts towards Himalayas. We are looking to form the second team as I told you based on trekkers in order to simplify the world of trekking. So, see if you would like to be a part of it once back.

        • Upamanyu Roy on

          There is a trek route from Kibber village to Ladakh.Lamas there usually go to ladakh for selling the sheeps ,yak etc. It is a 5-6 days journey totally on foot. if you can extended for 5-6 days more. you can have a trek up to Tso moriri lake. I have wish to go there.

  45. SPITI IN SUMMER OF NH-22

    We are a group of 4 planning to go upto Kibber via NH-22. We will b leaving On Saturday, 29-June-2014 on a Skoda Laura. Please give me an idea of road conditions? Does our car suit to these roads?

    • Gaurav, of course the road conditions will be bad in Kinnaur but not that much that you cannot take your car there. Of course, you need to be very cautious at certain sections and drive carefully there. No matter what if you plan to return from Manali side then your car will surely struggle on the route from Kunzum Pass to rohtang Pass via Chatru – Gramphu for sure. For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway Or Spiti Valley via Manali Or Ladakh, please refer the link: FAQ | Can I do Leh – Ladakh / Spiti / Manali – Leh trip in Hatchback or Sedan? for more details.

  46. K.C.Debnath on

    Dear Mr. Deeraj Sharma.
    First of all, I express my cordial thanks for your compact blog with valuable information. Really It is great. Now I have decided to visit Spiti Valley via Kinnaur Valley. It is 10 night programme starting from Shimla which is as below.
    Day-1: Sarahan via Narkanda & Rampur
    Day2: Sangla -Rakcham-Chitkul-Sangla.
    Day3: Kalpa via Recongpeo
    Day4: Tabo via Nako
    Day5: Mud Village via Dhankar/ Lake
    Day6: Kaza via Ki, Kibber
    Day7: Losar via Komik, Hikkim, Langza
    Day8: Manali via Chandratal, Rohtang La
    Day9: Kalka via Shimla
    I have kept one day buffer. Hallo Sir, is it possible? Kindly consider I am 68 & my wife 60. I will start my trip from 1st Sept.14. Pl suggest the car type as we are only two. what willbe the per day car rate inclusive of all.I am awaiting your best advice. Last time in Sept,11 we visited in Ladakh/ Leh & stayed there 9 nights.

  47. Rubal Walia on

    Wow, awesome information on your blog, Dheeraj. I could clarify most of my doubts. Just one question though, which vehicle did you use? And, what are your thoughts about a Ritz on shimla to Kaza route during last week of June? Thanks again!

  48. Dear Sir

    Your blog and detail on net are really amaizing.. ur pic’s too

    Planing to reach Leh by 15th May and spend a week there.. will it be possible to drive down to Spiti vally through kuzum pass ?

    Have a foruner at my disposlt at leh.

    thanks

    sabujan

    • Sabujan, road to Spiti Valley will only open by mid of June. In fact, even Manali – Leh Highway will be hard to open by mid of May this year,

  49. Jitesh Dubey on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    I had asked for your suggestions earlier also. Thanks for your response. Now the plan is fixed
    I had planned the following during 2nd & 3rd week of June:

    Day 1 – Delhi – Sarahan
    Day 2 – Sarahan – Rackcham (Base Camp for Kinnaur Valley)
    Day 3,4,5 – Chitkul,Sangla, Kalpa & Surrounding places
    Day 6 – Sangla – Kaza (Base for Spiti Valley)
    Day 7&8 – Spitti Valley
    Day 9 – Kaza – Kunzum pass – Chandrtal – Manali/Banjar
    Day 10 – Tirthan Valley
    Day 11 – Banjar – Delhi

    Please comment on above plan. Also Changes/Caution
    Regards,
    Jitesh

    I have Alto K10, slf driven,had prvious experience upto Krdar & Badri.

    • Few suggestions:
      Day 6: You will be starting from Kalpa. No point going back again to Sangla when you have to cover the same for Kaza. So, last day stay at Kalpa. Reach Tabo on this day instead of Kaza and sleep there. Will help you in acclimatization.
      Day 7: Tabo – Dhangkar – Dhangkar Lake – Pin Valley – Kaza
      Day 8: Ki, Kibber, Langza, Komik or rest in Kaza as I see you are short on time, or drop Tirthan Valley.
      Leave by 6 AM to do Chandratal and then reach Manali the same day. Take alto will be very challenging ahead of Losar towards Chandratal as well as from Chandratal / Kunzum Pass to manali

  50. Rajesh Kumar on

    Hi Dheeraj, Thanks for such lovely blogs and apt information. I am planning to go to spiti from chandigarh on 20th. I would be self-driving some SUV from chandigarh (still finding the right guy who can rent me one). Based on your last assessment of the road conditions and your such experience in these areas, what do you think the conditions would be now? Your views will be really helpful. Thanks.

    • Rajesh, road conditions will not improve much as the weather is not favourable in coming week. Also, since it is the time snow melts much faster so don’t expect much changes in the road conditions as mentioned in the article above. I will better suggest on a rented vehicle, that too self drive based, you will carry a high liability and risk. Better plan such a trip towards end of May when the roads in generall stabilize a bit so that the risk is much lower.

  51. Hi Dheeraj
    Could you please suggest how far ahead from Rampur can we go on an I20 considering the road conditions etc We would be 2 couples.

    • Hello Raman,

      If there is no rain/snow in coming days, then you can take your i20 all the way upto Kalpa / Sangla / Chitkul with careful driving and knowing the limits of your machine. But, if it rains then be ready for some scraping at under belly due to presence of slush ahead of Bhawanagar to Kalpa stretch.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

    • Dr Devender Sangwan on

      This time We wont go to Chitkul…. We can spend 12/5(FromChandigarh) to 17/5(Rohtak

      • Dr Devender Sangwan on

        I had planed like:
        23/5- Chandigarh to Sarhan
        13/5- Sarhan to Kalpa
        14/5 Sarahan to Kaza
        15/5 Ahead of Kaza & back if possible
        16/5 Kaza to Jaori
        & Jaori to back sweet home Rohtak…..
        Will it be ok…. Last time I drove alone from Rakcham To Chitkul & back to Chandigarh in one day… This time we all four can drive… And is very experience in hill driving….

        • Hmmm… well it will be like NO Buffer kind of touch and run, but yes, you can surely make it. If you all 4 can drive, I will say go for the kill !! At Kaza, don’t go anywhere BUT do check out Langza, Komik and Ki, Kibber in same priority order. You can stay at Sakya Abode, run by a dear friend Tsering. You can get connected with him at 09418208987

  52. Dr Devender Sangwan on

    Hi Deeraj, Last time we visited Chitkul in Nov 2012, after invaluable inputs from you, by driving own I-10… This time we 2 famlies( Both couples are doctors & from 47yrs to 52 yrs of age) have planned travelling to Lahaul-Spiti in I-10 again, from 12/5( early morning Departure from Chandigarh to 16/5( To Rohtak by evening)Can you suggest places and hotels for stay & places to be visited , daywise??? What road conditions & weather can be expected during that period?
    I am sure your inputs will be very very invaluable for us…..

    • Hello Dr. Sangwan,

      So good to hear from you after long. However, I will say you seem to have just 5 days in hand and with families it is complete NO from my side to visit Spiti Valley in just 5 days. You have been to Chitkul and you might understand the drive time it would have taken. From Chitkul, you need one long day of drive about 8-10 Hrs to reach Tabo – Kaza that is like one day and then one day again to come back. This is just touching and coming. So, in 5 days I do not think it is feasible to visit Spiti Valley.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  53. Hi Dheeraj , We are plannin to go to spiti on 9th apr 2014. So i have some questions to ask , please call me in dis number or provide me your email id .. Thanks , Dilip

    • Kavita, yeah, do make a trip to Spiti Valley and in case you have any queries feel free to shoot any !! There are many articles on the DoW Blog for explaining almost everything related to Spiti Valley 🙂

  54. Tarun gaur on

    mostly i travel with my own , by my own Mahindra Quanto , can i go to spiti valley in quanto or do i need a four wheel drive like scorpio or any other. How about in May month.

    • Quanto can make it to spiti and its possible to do it in May but you will not be able to cross Kunzam pass as it would not be open. You can go up to Losar (60 km further towards kunzam) and then do the back track. If possible go after mid June because at that time it will be possible to the complete circuit by going via Shimla and returning via Manali.

    • Tarun, you can perfectly make your trip to Spiti Valley in Quanto. You need a bit High GC which Quanto will provide you. No need of 4 WD. Also, in May actually you will not be able to complete the entire circuit that is going to Spiti from Shimla – Kinnaur and coming back from Manali. If you can plan it in June then you will be able to complete it as Anil bhai suggested above 🙂

  55. Quite informative. will help dozens of future commuters. Keep exploring the globe. all the best. Waiting for photo log 🙂

  56. debanjan das on

    Is it possible at this time? if not please suggest…
    25th MAY, SUNDAY —- –KALKA to RAMPUR(covering kufri,fagu,narkanda & padam palace)
    26th MAY, MONDAY —– RAMPUR to CHITKUL(covering kafnu, sarahan & sangla)
    27th MAY, TUESDAY——- CHITKUL to DHANKAR(covering kalpa, nako, nako lake, nako gumpha, tabo monastery)
    28th MAY, WEDNESDAY —— (early morning hike to Dhankar lake, visiting old & new dhankar monastery) DHANKAR to PIN VALLEY, STAY AT MUDH VILLAGE.
    29th MAY, THURSDAY ——– MUDH to KAZA(covering ki monastery)
    30th MAY, FRIDAY ——- STAY AT KAZA(covering kibber, langza,comic,gette)
    31st MAY SATURDAY —— KAZA to CHANDRATAL(covering kunzum la, losar)
    1st JUNE, SUNDAY ——— CHANDRATAL to SISHU(if possible MANALI)
    2nd JUNE, MONDAY ——- SISHU to MANALI or STAY AT MANALI.
    3rd JUNE, TUESDAY ——-STAY AT MANALI
    4th JUNE, WEDNESDAY ——- WHOLE DAY AT MANALI. At night depart for DELHI or CHANDIGARH.

    • Debanjan das ji, 27 May, it would be a really long considering the bad road condition at most of the places. We had done Kalpa to Tabo (170 km) in 11 hours.
      Secondly from chandratal to manali route does not touch Sissu. This route will be chandratal, batal, chattru, gramphoo and then left turn to Rohtang top and onwards journey to Manali. Total distance should be around 150 km.

    • Hi Debanjan,

      Make it like,

      Chitkul to Tabo
      Tabo – Dhangkar – Pin Valley

      Then, HIGHLY likely that Kunzum Pass will not open by that time and even if it opens I more doubt the road to Chandratal.

      In all likely case, you will have to return back at this time of the year.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

        • Debanjan, I will suggest to get in touch with Tsering at 09418208987. He is the owner of Sakya Abode, Kumphen and also runs couple of home stays. He will be able to guide you with reliable taxi driver too in Spiti.

  57. Sunil Arora on

    Very informative. I have been planning to visit Spiti since January this year. This log is a great help in planning. I intend to stay there for longer period, may be one month.

    • Wow, Sunil ji, amazing !! Do plan a trip there to Spiti Valley and in case any info. required. Please feel free to shoot any queries you have for your trip to Spiti Valley

  58. Manoj bhardwaj on

    Hello dheeraj sir, sir kinnuar roads give tuff always in season, but sir u did this trip then mostly roads r closed or block, sir u prove devil’s wheel never stop or stuck, my grand salute to u,

    • Yeah, it was indeed an amazing experience I will say !! Had a blast of a trip and was just like dream of seeing white spiti coming true !! More than physically, the trip was mentally challenging

  59. Nice updates brother. Really helpful for the people who are planning to do this splendid part of Himachal Pradesh. Waiting for more pictures now.

    • Thank you Anil bhai !! Yes, it was indeed an amazing trip I must say. Had really good time. Will share the rest of the log very soon, but after last few parts of Ladakh log completes 🙂

  60. Suhel Yadav on

    Hi Dheeraj I also went to Spiti valley last week, we went till Kaza covering Sangla, Nako and Kalpa, since we had only 5 days couldn’t went to lingti or Pin valley. It is indeed amazing place but I’ll say dangerous to go at this time, we encountered 5 landslides on the way. We stayed at IPH guest house in Kaza and home stay at Nako, would really want to go another time when all the routes are opened.

    • Wow Suhel, wish we knew each other before !! May be we had bumped into each other over there in the heaven. Feel free to join us on our DoW Mega Meet this september which is going to be held in Spiti Valley only…

  61. Tarun Goel on

    The tweet button in the right doesn’t work. It takes to a blank page.

    • Seems | symbol is the culprit :(, it should work now 😀 … BUT, that means need to correct all my titles or write code to fix this so that it ignores this symbol

  62. Devpriyo Bhattacharya on

    Waiting for the details. I can feel your anxiety on Day 6 and Day 7 and finally your achievement feeling on Day 8. Must have been a super exciting trip.