DoW Himalayan Travel Community

Permits in Ladakh are not required for Indian Tourists from May 2014


Finally, there is good news midst all the confusing rules being laid with respect to outside bikes and all !!

Yes, you read the title correctly that “As an Indian National or Indian Tourist, you do not necessarily need to require Inner Line Permits in Ladakh starting from 1st May 2014 in order to visit common sightseeing places which lie in the restricted areas in Ladakh” …

Update: April 2017 = Pay environment fees and apply for permits again
  • The environment fees of Rs 400 & Inner Line Permits (most likely as well) will again be required in Ladakh for Indian Tourists / Nationals with effect from April 1st, 2017. This has been recently announced and is available on official website of Leh administration. It is expected that a public circular should follow soon as well. Hence, like it used to happen before 2014, all Indian Nationals or Indian Tourists WILL need to pay environment fees and may need to also get the inner line permits in Leh – Ladakh region in order to visit the restricted places like Dah, Hanu Villages, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Tso Moriri, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Tyakshi, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only).
  • You can download the permit form and application letter at the link: Inner Line Permit Form and Application Letter
No Permits Required in Ladakh for Indian Tourists / Nationals
  • In the recent circular published by DM in Leh, it has been stated that Indian Nationals or Indian Tourists DO NOT need any inner line permits in Leh – Ladakh region any more starting from 1st May 2014 in order to visit the restricted places: “Dah, Hanu Villages, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Tso Moriri, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Khardung La, Nubra Valley (up to Panamik), Turtuk, Tyakshi, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only)
  • As an Indian Tourist or Indian Nationals, now you can just present your valid Photo ID Nationality Proof (Driving License, Indian Passport, Aadhar Card, PAN Card, etc..) at the ITBP/Army check-posts along with a copy of a self declaration form: Link of Ladakh Self Declaration Form for Indians, when and where asked from you and that will just acts as permit for you 🙂 🙂 … You need to make copies of this self declaration form and submit them at the checkposts.

Earlier (that is before 1st May 2014), in order to visit all these places like Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley, etc.. Indian Tourists or Indian Nationals required to apply for Inner Line Permits and foreign nationals needed to apply for Protected Area Permits (PAPs). This copy of Inner Line Permit was used to be submitted at ITBP/Army check-posts and they allow you to pass through. Now with this rule or circular in place and effect from 1st May 2014, Indian Tourists will not require any permits or ILPs rather they can just present their valid Photo ID Nationality Proof. However, the rules for foreign nationals still remains same as earlier. That is, all foreign nationals must apply for Protect Area Permits (PAP) in a group of two or more through a registered travel agent in Leh in order to visit the restricted areas in Ladakh of Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Dah – Hanu Villages.

IMHO, this will immensely help Indian Tourists interested to visit these common sightseeing places in Ladakh in terms of saving money as well as avoiding any hassles and wastage of time / day in applying these permits. In turn, this will also ensure a boost to tourism sector in Ladakh in one way or the other because for a newbie, the process of Inner Line Permits was some kind of puzzle always and most of the tourists ended up paying for such a trivial process to some agent in between. Now, with this rule in place for no inner line permits are required for Indians, those who are short on time can have a day saved for them which can be utilized for sightseeing in around Leh as full day or just relax in Leh without any worry of Inner Line Permits for Ladakh.

Wait, Some Very Important Points to Remember / Take Care
  • Please note that being an Indian or domestic tourist, you STILL NEED to apply for Inner Line Permits in order to visit places like: Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, beyond Loma bend, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors.
  • Hence, if you need to visit non-touristy places in Ladakh like Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors then you need to apply for inner line permits using the same process as it used to be. For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here.
  • Please note that acclimatization is still required and equally necessary. So, just don’t feel that if permits are not required then you have the liberty of not acclimatizing yourself and hitting the road to Khardung La the day you land in Leh or Tso Moriri from Manali side.
  • You should not visit Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh on the way because even though permits are not required for Tso Moriri now BUT your body will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude of Tso Moriri lake (4500 Mtrs) in thin air so early in the trip. It may cause some really ugly AMS issues for you with least help around or even in distance, if the need arise. Highly not recommended unless you come acclimatized for 4500+ Mtrs.

Update: Circular Copy sent for uploading to NIC site on 24th April 2014 which confirms this good news 🙂 🙂

Circular for No Permits in Ladakh for Indian Tourists starting May 2014

Circular for No Permits in Ladakh for Indian Tourists starting May 2014

Here is the copy of this circular for your reference:

Circular for No Permits in Ladakh for Indian Tourists starting May 2014

Circular for No Permits in Ladakh for Indian Tourists starting May 2014

Circular for No Permits in Ladakh for Indian Tourists starting May 2014

Circular for No Permits in Ladakh for Indian Tourists starting May 2014

Circular for Permits in Ladakh not Required for Indian Tourists from May 2014

Circular for Permits in Ladakh not required for Indian Tourists from May 2014

Circular Copy Credits:Kumar HV Fan and Forum on FB

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You can call me an Avid Traveler, a Day - Night Dreamer and a Passionate Lover of Himalayas who has a high zest for driving whilst exploring new places in Himalayas & sharing back those Himalayan Travel experiences with the other fellow Travelers... I am in love with Spreading Smiles in Himalayas through DoW Causes & currently enjoying life as Happy Traveling Soul at DoW Community. You can read more about me in detail at the link here ...


  1. Sharon Ong on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I am a foreign national and was just reading about the relaxation of PAP requirements for certain areas of travel within Ladakh. I am planning to cover Lamayuru and Pangong Tso whilst in Leh – is it true then that I would not need a PAP to visit these two places?

    Thanks a billion,

  2. Md. Ershadul Kader Faruki on

    Dear Dheeraj,

    As I can see that no Bangladeshi citizen has ever get “in line permit” to restricted areas of “Ladakh”. Can you please suggest an itinerary for a small group of Bangladeshi citizen for 10 days trip from Srinagar-Leh-Srinagar including at least 2 days stay at each point. Or Srinagar-Leh-Manali with places to visit avoiding restricted areas.

    Thank you in advance.



    • Rahul Sinha on

      Hi Dheeraj,

      We are planning to make a trip to Leh ( 13-28 Aug). We will be renting bikes from Delhi. I just wanted to know the procedure for permits.
      1> Are permits compulsory for bikes?
      2> If yes , Can we get the permits online?
      3> Do we need to be physically present to get the permits.
      4> Since all of the bikes will be rented bikes, which all documents do we need to get the permit.
      5> If the permits need to be made once we are in Manali, How much does does this entire process take?
      6> Lastly, What are the documents needed to get a hasslefree permit.

      • Hey Rahul,

        Please find the answers below:

        1. YEs, you need permits from going from Manali side to Rohtang Pass.
        2. No, permits will be available in person from SDM office in Manali. Pnly permits upto Rohtang Pass are issued online not going beyond it.
        3. Not really, you need RC, PUC and DL to get the permits.
        4. No matter what documents you carry, you have to rent Leh bikes once you reach Leh to do sightseeing in entire Ladakh
        5. If you reach the office in time, hardly takes about 20-30 mins.
        6. Answered above.

  3. Sanjeet Gupte on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    We are travelling from Chandigarh to Manali and then to Leh, we are seeing multiple route options from Chandigarh to Manali and even different views and suggestion for choosing the route

    Can you please suggest which is the best route to travel from Chandigarh to Manali with good road conditions and minimum traffic.



    • Sanjeet, best is that you stick to Manali – Bilaspur – Sunder nagar route as it is shorter though do have traffic of trucks and bad roads of about 15-20 KMs. But it is shorter. However, the other route which goes from Una – Bhota – Jahu – Mandi is a longer route by about 60 KMs, devoid of traffic, very good roads mostly. Time taken by both routes is almost same and at times Manali – Bilaspur is faster.

  4. Abhay Gaikwad on

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Next week, me and 4 of my friends( all Indian nationals) are planning to travel on rented bikes from manali to leh via rohtang pass( 1 night stay in sarchu). Then we will cover pangong lake, khardung la and nubra valley in 4 days.
    Please inform me about the permits that will be required to complete this journey.


    • Asif Khan on

      Hi Dheeraj, I have been to Leh (followed your advise and entered from Srinagar side and left from Manali). I found that though ILP is not required for Indians but declaration of all travelers on a form is still required and the form (2 copies) needs to be submitted at two of the check posts. Not sure if they will allow to pass without the formality of this form. I got the the photocopy of this from one of the travel agent in Leh main market for Rs. 5.

      • Yes Asif, it is just a form for noting down how many people passed, who they were and when. It is available for download too and one can take the copies themselves. Sorry for not being explicit about it, will mention for others in future. But, earlier permit was to be procured from DC office in Leh.

  5. Hi Dheeraj,

    I just wanted to ask if zoomcars are allowed in Leh Ladakh, or are these also counted as taxi’s.

    Travelling from Srinagar to Leh and returning via Manali.

  6. Abu Shid Polash on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I am from Bangladesh. And Next month July’16 i plan to visit Ladakh. Every thing is confirm. Pls can u confirm me that is Bangladeshi citizen are not allowed for visiting Nubra & Pangong? Pls Hurry I don’t have enough time.
    If any person know about this matter pls let me know.
    My E-mail –


  7. Hello Dheeraj, Am just adding an extra question here. We 2 people on RE 350 & RE 500 bikes. Planning to travel from following route – Leh > Khardung La > Diskit > Hundar > Nubra Valley > Panamik Hot Springs > Then via Wari La > Sakti > Chang La > Pangong Tso > Man > Merak > Chusul War Memorial > Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma Tso Moriri > then via Puga > Tso Kar > Pang > Sarchu.

    1) Please advise number of Petrol Pumps available on this route.
    2) How is the stay accommodation in these areas.

    Note – As I understand I need to get ILP fro Leh as we are travelling via Chusul area. (Not visiting Hanle)


  8. Hi, I’m on a solo trip to Ladakh, I will be riding to Tso Moriri from Leh and was wondering If i get the ILP will I be able to head to Hanle without much hassle at Army check posts? Are they particular about depositing camera at check post?

    Thanks in advance!

    • Ram, things have eased out. You should have permit and you can travel to Hanle. Do keep in mind about the amount of fuel you will need to carry to undertake the complete trip including Tso Moriri

      • Thanks Dheeraj, yeah fuel is another concern. I have a RE standard 350 that does not give great mileage. Tank capacity 13 plus jerry can 10 ltrs. I am wondering how I should plan Tso Moriri, Tso kar, Hanle and head back to Karu. Looks like I have to skip Hanle unfortunately.

        • Unless you plan to carry extra fuel with you, it is difficult to do Hanle trip. You can try to rely on fuel available in hanle but there will be no assurance.

      • Hello Dheeraj, Am just adding an extra question here. We 2 people on RE 350 & RE 500 bikes. Planning to travel from following route – Leh > Khardung La > Diskit > Hundar > Nubra Valley > Panamik Hot Springs > Then via Wari La > Sakti > Chang La > Pangong Tso > Man > Merak > Chusul War Memorial > Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma Tso Moriri > then via Puga > Tso Kar > Pang > Sarchu.

        1) Please advise number of Petrol Pumps available on this route.
        2) How is the stay accommodation in these areas.

        Note – As I understand I need to get ILP fro Leh as we are travelling via Chusul area. (Not visiting Hanle)


  9. hello sir
    my name is sanjeev i m planning to go ladakh with my enfield 350 cc , my bike is registered on my brothers name and Original RC is not issued till now but i have the registration papers and RTO paper that they use to give.
    Can you suggest with theis documents would i be able to visit pangong lake.

    thanks regards

  10. Hi dheeraj,

    We are planning for road trip to Leh via Chandigarh by private taxi. We are planning to hire taxi from Manali. Can you please confirm if Manali taxi will go to panong lake, nubra valley directly or we will need take the permit or else pay extra 10k or 20 k to visit these places. If I approach travel agent will they change our vehicles as outside vehicles are not allowed? Please confirm which approach should we use – book a cab and go or consider a travel agent so no issue of permit and all . Really confused 🙁

    • No Sneha, only Ladakh taxis can do sightseeing in Ladakh. You will get a taxi from Manali to drop you at Leh and then you need to hire a Ladakh based taxi for rest of the trip. For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2016 – 17 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

  11. Varunsharma8686 on

    Dear Dheeraj

    Do inner line permits are required for cyclist as well? My driver will accompany me on Honda shine 125 cc. The bike is registered on my wife’s name. Will there be any issue or marriage certificate should work. Is 125 cc bike ok. I will be on cycle starting from peo.
    If I divert from morah plains toward tso kar and then follow route of tso moriri, mahe Loma, tsaga la chushul, khaltse, Marek, spangmik, will I need permit in this case as well

    Kind regards

    • Permits are required for every person in case you are going to a place where permit is required. Vehicle does not matter. Yes, as long as you can prove the relation by some document and it is apparent that bike is not rented one, it should be fine. Yes, you wil neeed permit for this route. Better first go to Leh and from there do it from Nubra side.

  12. Pritam Saha on

    We are planning to visit Leh during this Hemis Festival, July 2016.
    We are 4/5 members in a group, and we are planning to travel through a rented vehicle. The places in our list are Shanti Stupa, Hemis Monastery, Turtuk Village via Khardung-la Pass, Changla Pass, Nubra valley, Shey Monastery, Confluence of Indus & Zanskar river etc.
    We all have valid photo ID of Indian nationals.
    Do we need to obtain any additional permit for the said route, to travel in a rented vehicle?
    Please let us know asap.
    Thank you.

  13. Sanjeet Gupte on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    We are travelling from Manali to Leh by Rented Zoom Car Self drive XUV. Is there any permit require to travel from Manali to Leh Via Rohtang Pass. If Yes then
    1. What is the procedure to get the permit.
    2. Whether it is available online
    3. Where we can get the permit.
    4. Also we will be returning via same route so is return permit different.
    5. Timings to get the permit.

    Will be grateful if you can share the above information



  14. Sanjeet Gupte on

    HI Dheeraj,

    We are 4 of us travelling from Chandigarh to Leh by XUV self drive.

    Just need to know can we use the same vehicle to travel in Ladakh like Pangong Lake, Nibru Valley etc. or we need hire a local vehicle from Leh.



  15. Hemant Binani on

    Dear Sir
    Please advice

    Day 1: New Delhi to Katra
    Day 2: Katra Local & Vaishno Devi
    Day 3: Katra to Srinagar
    Day 4: Srinagar to Kargil
    Day 5: Kargil to LEH
    Day 6: Leh Rest Day & Local Sight Seeing
    Day 7: Leh to Nubra Valley/ Diskit
    Day 8: Diskit to Pangong Tso/ Lukung
    Day 9: Lukung to Pang via Tso Kar
    Day 10: Pang to Sissu
    Day 11: Sissu to Manali
    Day 12: Manali to New Delhi

    • Hi Hemant,

      1. Lukung to Pang via Tso Kar will be too much to do in one day.
      2. Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not need any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from couple of year back in June & in July/August, most likely the route is washed away. Similar, reports are there from last year as well. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure.

      Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough. If your driver agrees to travel on this route then take the Wari La route to Pangong Tso. Remember that any help required on both these routes will be HARD to find in miles of distance. If you have couple of vehicles then only take this route otherwise best is to avoid it.

  16. Maria Jimenez on


    I have a foreigner friend who didnt plan properly and is now going to be in Leh only for 2 days.

    She has paid a lot for the flight tickets so its not possible to cancel the trip or change the dates.

    Could you help us by providing an itinerary for just 2 days? Shell reach in the morning on 24th of March and will go back to delhi 26th Morning.

    Also if she needs a permit can she get it before she reaches leh so she doesnt waste any time?

    Thank you

    • Maria, well, the key to any Ladakh trip is acclimatization which she/he will need for at least 36 Hrs after reaching Leh that makes 2 days for your friend. Ideally, apart from Leh and may be surrounding monasteries like in Sham Valley or Hemis, Thicksey, nothing can be explored.

  17. Dear Dheeraj,
    You are doing great service to all us travellers by answering our queries. I am a RE biker and have been to Leh via the Royal Enfield group trips. Now, in June 2016, my brother and I are planning another bike trip. Our route is – Del-Parwanoo-Narkanda-Kalpa-Kaza-Keylong-Sarchu-Leh-Khardung La-Nubra Valley-Leh-Kargil-Srinagar. In light of the recent circular as given above on ILPs, do we need an ILP on any of these routes? Our bikes are registered in our names and we are Indian nationals with valid IDs.

    • No Rishi, you do not need any permits. I will suggest you something like below plan:

      Day 1 | Chandigarh/Ambala – Narkanda – Sarahan
      Day 2 | Sarahan – Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul
      Day 3 | Rakcham/Sangla/Chitkul – Nako – Geyu Mummy – Tabo
      Day 4 | Tabo – Dhangkar – Dhangkar Lake – Pin Valley – Kaza
      Day 5 | Kaza Rest and Local Sightseeing
      — Ki, Kibber, Gette, Tashigang
      Day 6 | Kaza – Hikkim, Komik, Langza circuit – Kaza
      Day 7 | Kaza – Sissu / Keylong, leave early in the day
      Day 8 | Keylong/Jispa – Leh
      — Leave Keylong/Jispa early next morning, say by 4/5 AM types, so that you reach Leh in the evening.
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh Local Sightseeing + Acclimatization
      — To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 10 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 11 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 12 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 13 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 14 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
      Day 15 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Upshi – Leh
      — Come back via Tso Kar and Manali – Leh Highway to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 16 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 17 | Leh – Lamayuru – Kargil
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 18 | Kargil – Drass – Zozi La – Sonamarg – Srinagar
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Sonamarg
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 19 | Srinagar – Jammu
      — Overnight at Jammu

      Day 20 | Jammu – Ambala – Delhi
      — Back Home

      • Dear Dheeraj,
        Many thanks. Can you please look at this plan and advise:

        Day 1 Gurgaon to Parwanoo
        Day 2 Parwanoo to Narkanda
        Day 3 Narkanda to Kalpa
        Day 4 Kalpa to Kaza
        Day 5 Kaza to Sarchu (??)
        Day 6 Sarchu to Leh
        Day 7 Leh Town
        Day 8 Leh to Hunder
        Day 9 Hunder to Leh
        Day 10 Leh to Pangong
        Day 11 Pangong to Leh
        Day 12 Leh to Kargil
        Day 13 Kargil to Sonamarg/Srinagar
        Day 14 Srinagar
        Day 15 Srinagar to Amritsar
        Day 16 Amritsar to Patiala
        Day 17 Patiala to Delhi

        A specific question: last time i covered Kaza-Keylong in one day and then Keylong-Sarchu the next day. Can I do Kaza-Sarchu in one day?


        • Rishi, Kaza to Sarchu is way too long to be done in a day. Kaza to Keylong is possible and then Keylong to Leh also is possible. However, doing the journey like this is mostly like being just on road, eating and almost sleeping too. It is quite a hectic plan. Better relax some days in Spiti to ease it out

        • Dear Dheeraj, thank you for your response. Will do as you suggested. Also, please help with another query – can we do Leh-Pangong-Leh in one day? I did it last time in two days with overnight stay at Pangong and I know it is 340+ kms. Do you advise it?

        • Yes Rishi, since the roads are quite better you can for sure try Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh in one days, many people short on time do it and is possible due to good roads in most of the journey.

        • Alternatively, if we don’t want to come back to Leh from Pangong and go directly to Kargil from there, is that an option?

        • Better will be to make a trip to Pangong Tso in a day as i is in opposite direction of Kargil and you will have to come to Leh in anycase to move to Kargil

        • Dear Dheeraj, many thanks. One more query. We are going to do Leh-Pangong Tso and stay overnight. I believe that we dont need ILP for that.
          Next day, can we do Pangong Tso to Rezang La War Memorial at Hanle and then return to Leh? Do we need ILP for that? What is the suggested route? Thanks.

        • Yes, Rishi, you need permit for that route beyond Spangmik towards Chusul. Hanle is far off from Rezang La. Rest I answered in other reply. Please refer DoW Maps of Ladakh for better understanding of this region

      • Can I do Leh-Pangong on Day 1 and stay overnight and next day, use following route:
        Spangmik-Man-Merak-Chushul-Rezang La and return to Leh via Harong-Tangste-Karu? do I need ILP for this route? This seems shortest at 270kms. Please advise.

        • Rishi, you can do so BUT the problem is that Rezang La – Chusul route will take about 4 Hrs of ride due to no existent road but from the Erath – Harong route, you may run faster. Rest once you are at Tangste, you will follow the same route to Leh. Not sure how you came out on shortest.

          Pangong Tso to Tangste is just 34 KMs and you on this route need to go to Chusul first, 45 KMs and then come back to Tangste from Erath – Harong route, which is 81 KMs from Chusul to Tangste. So, I will not advice that you ride to Changla after riding 125 KMs and then further 130 odd KMs to Leh.

    • Many thanks, Dheeraj. This is what I understand:
      1. To go to Rezang La, I need an ILP.
      2. The route I should take is Pangong-back to Tangste-Harong-Chushul-Rezang La-back to Leh via same route.
      If this is correct, I will put this as my route in ILP.
      Much appreciated.

      • 1. Yes Rishi, you need permits for it.
        2. Regarding route, it will be like: Pangong Tso (Spangmik) – Man – Merak – Chusul, then from Chusul enter the road towards Nama – Erath – Harong – Tangste. It is a circuit. Please refer the map: Maps of Ladakh for better understanding.

        You need to write Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Nama, Erath, Harong on the permit.

        • Guess you finally suggested the same route that I thought of and asked in my original query – Spangmik-Man-Merak-Chushul-Rezang La and return to Leh via Harong-Tangste-Karu. Thanks!

        • But Rishi, take into account that going all the way to Leh after visiting Chusul, will be very very long and tedious journey for sure

        • Thanks. Want to pick your brains a little more so that we don’t end up being over-enthusiastic. Pan gong to Rezang La via Man/Merak and back to Leh via Erath:Tangste is a total of 270kms if my calculations is right. When people do 330kms in one day Leh-Pangong-Leh, that is doable. Why not the former? If you do not recommend this, we won’t embark on this stretch.

        • Yes, you are right, it is around 270 KMs when you take it from Lukung 🙂 … Well, thing is Spangmik to Chusul 45 KMs is all a dirt road and beautiful so you take more stops. It will take around 3 Hrs just to reach Chusul – Nama and then next 81 KMs as per couple of years back had good roads not sure how it stands today. 340 KMs of Pangong Tso takes 12 Hrs on good roads and one just do it for the sake of doing it not getting enjoyment of it. I am not saying you opt out of it, I am suggesting that it might be long that you reach Tangste itself and I am comparing it from just one side 170 KMs of Pangong Tso that you need to do incase you go directly to Leh. I will suggest take a call at what time you reach Tangste, if it is 2-3, you will only have 2.5-3 Hrs to make it to Leh in Daylight else drive in dark but if you end up there at 4, I will suggest not to proceed and stay at Tangste. Hence, if you want to run on road and capture the beauty it is fine to take that route but then if you want to thoroughly enjoy it, better do it slowly and stay overnight at Tangste and leave next day to Leh

        • Also, dont go by what people do, as including myself I have known many people who do Delhi – Srinagar, Leh – Manali, Srinagar – Leh, Leh – Tso Moriri – Leh, Tso Moriri – Manali – Bilaspur, Kaza – Kinnaur – Delhi etc in just one day 😀 😀 … All depends upon your definition of travel

        • Love the way you explain! Must appreciate it.
          I come from an army family and since youth have harboured a wish to pay homage to the Rezang La warriors. Here is what I am planning, after carefully listening to your advise:
          Will leave Pangong at 6am, reach Rezang La at 10 worst case, stay for 30min, reach Tangste back by 2:30 and Leh by 6:30. Hopefully that’s doable. However, if I hit Tangste after 4:30, will stay there overnight.
          BTW, how much time does it take from Tangste to Leh via Karu?

        • Hi Rishi,

          It will take about 4-4.5 Hrs minimum to reach Leh from Tangste. Actually, if you reach Tangste anytime beyond 3.30, I will suggest take a step back and stay there only. Why I am suggesting is because you need to cross Chang La pass which is actually higher than Khardung La 🙂 🙂 … And getting stuck at such a high altitude late in the evening will not help the cause if at all. Hence, skeptical about it 🙂 … So, better keep 3-3.30 as the deadline not 4.30.

          PS: Really appreciate you guys taking time to pay homage to our brave soldiers !! Do spend sometime with them, they feel really good when people from other parts meet and spend time with them. Thanks

        • Best wishes for your Ladakh trip. Have great fun and inc ase any doubt, please feel frer to leave a comment here. and if in case you happen to be happy to spread smiles, please execute our initiatives of DoW Causes on your own when you travel there, in order to help the local community up there in remote Himalayas. You can check more details about them at: DoW – Causes | A Step Towards Responsible Travel and can execute them on your own.

        • Hi Dheeraj, need guidance. I have a new situation to deal with. I have booked the recently launched Himalayan from Royal Enfield. Due to technical issues, the delivery is moved to mid-May month. My trip starts June 17. Thus, there is a high chance that I may not receive original RC in time, while the number may still be out. Can I take this bike to Leh then?

        • Hmm, this could be OK. I think the papers will still be in your name which should be OK for you AFAIK. But, be ready with the papers which should be OK when confronted.

    • dheeraj

      how much is fees to get the permit for foreign tourist to go khardungla, and how much time it will take to get these permissions.

  18. Sreeram Gopal on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are a group of 5 planning to travel to Leh-Ladakh. We are planning on renting a car fropm Delhi (via zoomcar). Our itinerary is Srinagar-Gulmarg-Kargil-Leh-Sarchu-Manali-Kulu.

    What all documents are required to ply in this route considering that we are taking a rental car? Do you have any suggestions for the order for travel?

    Sreeram Gopal


    Dear Dhreej ji,

    Your site and yourself has helped me several times. Now this year i am travelling from srinagar to leh and return through manali route.

    please reply for following points so that i can plan accordingly:

    1. Is ILP required for Nubra- wari la pass – pangong lake?
    2. Is ILP required for Nubra- shyok village- pangong lake?
    3. from your blogs i think permit is required to travel from pangong to tso moriri. Please correct my understanding.

    BTW i am travelling from 16 Aug to 27 Aug.

    • Hi Ravi,

      1,2. No you do not need ILP for Wari La or Shyok route AFAIK.
      3. Yes if you go from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul route, you will need inner line permits and even after that army can send you back from Chusul

  20. chintanbhatt777 on

    Dear Dhiraj,

    We are 4 members (Male) planning for self drive SUV round road trip to Leh from Rajkot (Gujarat).

    Starting from Rajkot to Ajmer, Amritsar, Srinagar, Kargil, Leh, Nubra (Turtuk), Pangong (Spangmik), Moriri (Karzok), Jispa / Sarchu, Manali, Chandigarh and back to Delhi.

    How many days should this trim take?
    Should we take any kind of permit for this route?

    Thanks & Regards,

    • Hello Chintan,

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travellers including me at the link here for 13-14 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh. You can extend the day in Nubra Valley to visit Turtuk and drop the rest day after Pangong Tso in the plan. You will not need any permit for the above route being indians.


  21. Hi Dheeraj,

    we are planning a trip to leh from manali in August 2015 (1st week) .is this the right time to travel?
    do we need to to book Bykes in Leh in advance?
    can we cover pangong lake from leh in 1 day and come back to leh?
    in case we spend night in Dunker(Nubra) or near Pangong lake,do we need to do advance booking?

    • Deepak, It is monsoon time in general up there in North and at some parts of Manali – Leh Highway (like before Baralacha La) and Srinagar – Leh Highway (like before Kargil) you might need to face monsoon hassles but once you get closer to Ladakh, then Ladakh being rain shadow region is least affected by monsoon rains, though rains does reach Ladakh now but to minimum and mostly it might remains overcast conditions. There is no thumb rule of certainty about weather conditions but above is generally common pictures seen over last few years except ugly 2010 …

  22. Hello Concern,

    I am planning to do a ride from Indore – shimla – Kaza – Keylong – Tso kar – Tso Morriri – Chumathang – Upshi – Karu – Sakti – Pangong – Marismak La – Back to Thiksey – Shey – Leh (spending 4-5 days in Leh including panamik and khardung and Hundar etc) – Leaving Leh and riding towards Kargil (Including Dha Hanu Detours)
    – ShriNagar – Delhi – and back to Indore .

    Now my Main concern is if I ride from Kaza side and reach Tso kar and Morrriri ,
    1. Will it be okay and will I face any Permit issue?.
    2. As I have read the above portal, i will be needing the permit to Marismak La pass, so from where I can get those permit.?
    3. What will be the better route according to you , if this itinerary is not okay.
    4. Which all places here will I needing a permit for?
    Also includes your tips for my safe ride.
    Desperately waiting for your reply?

    • Hi Ashish,

      1. Yes, it will be OK to travel from Kaza towards Tso Moriri with overnight halt at Jispa/Keylong and then Sarchu or do Kaza to Sissu, Sissu to Sarchu and sarchu to Tso Moriri, may be. No permit is required if all are indians in the group.
      2. Yes, you will need permit for Marsimik La. Here is the process: Ladakh Inner Line Permit Updates on Process & Download Form
      3. Plan seems OK to me if you can crack the availability of fuel as that is what concerns me with plan like this. There is only one fuel pump that is there at Karu. So, from Keylong to Leh via Tso Moriri, Pangong tso and Marsimik La, you will need fuel in spare.
      4. Tso Moriri to Pangong Tso via Chusul will need permits, even after permits you can be sent back from Loma or Tsaga or Chusul, so be prepared for that hiccup.

  23. Sajan Joseph on

    Hi Dheeraj
    My dad served in the Indian Army and he was killed in a road accident in November 1978. He was cremated or buried in Kargil. Are you aware of any such burial grounds for Army in Kargil. Till today , we have not visited the place and neither did we see his body. Now my mother is aged and she has expressed her desire to visit the place at least once. Can you help me out. I stay in Kerala and it is quite a long way. If there is any information , please write to me. I will be highly obliged.

  24. Dear Dheeraj

    My husband and I are now in Leh. We found overselves a nice driver to take us around and who has agreed to take us to Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, Lake Moriri. However we are having difficulties finding a travel agent willing to process our Inner Permit without us using their driver (we are French/Singaporean citizens). Could you recommend a travel agency that would help us to apply for a permit for us.

    Thank you in advance for your good advice.

    • No, in order to follow Batalik route, you have to take permits from Kargil DC Office. However, there is another route from Chitkan to Dah – Hanu which as per my knowledge is exempted from permits.

  25. ABtraveller on

    Hello Dheeraj,

    I am off to Leh via Srinagar on this Friday i.e 12th and will be back via manali . I have couple of queries related to Ladkah.

    – I am hiring Taxi number (yellow no Plate) which is not allowed for local sightseeing , i know , however is there any extra Taxes i need to bear for entering or parking the Car in Leh ?

    – If i start on 16th from Srinagar can i reach leh on 17th Evening ?? Halting at kargil of course .

    – We are only 3 ppl and would be hiring Enfield to visit Nubhra and Tso-Pangong , we are not much experienced Bikers , So will we get other Bikers en route whom we can follow , just to have a group . Also , do ppl add there in their group to ride ??

    – I guess no extra Tax for returning via manali as well ? except state one !!

    – By any chance do ppl travelling via Srinagar get other ppl to Share Taxi at some cost ? Like we have space in Xylo can we get somebody to share some cost till leh or to manali from leh maybe ??

    – What are the road conditions to Nubhra via Khardungla and Pangong riding in Bikes ?

    Would be a great help if you can help answering above questions. 🙂
    Many Thanks !!

    • Hi AB,

      1. No parking charges required, You can park it near your hotel as most people do. Toll you need to give state wise only not district wise.
      2. Yes, very easily and most people do it that ways only as 2 day trip over Srinagar to Leh
      3. Mostly people on roads become welcoming up there but you never know in case you get some arrogant groups though chances are less
      4. No extra tax.
      5. Sometimes yes. Please see the DoW Calendar from the menu and you can of course accommodate couple of people in case they are traveling the same dates. On the road or near taxiu stand as well you will get to find some as well
      6. Road conditions are OK but there will be snow and being first time riders consult from the rental agency before going up there in case snow is present on the roads.


  26. Sir m planning to visit Leh in a taxi (with a private number and not as a commercial vehicle) will I require any permit to visit pangong tso and nubra valley in this case

  27. Dear Dheeraj,

    1) Being a Bangladeshi what are the places in Kargil and Ladakh that I can see with an Indian Visa only?

    2) In a 6 days visit @ Ladakh how long will it take to get the permission to visit Nubra valley and Pangong lake?
    I have already read that no Bangladeshi has ever been successful to get the permission to visit these places, just wondering as of 2015 if there is any change now.

    3) Are unmarried couple allowed to share same room in Hotels in this Himalayan province?
    ( eg: kashmir, kargil, ladakh, manali)? is it considered as illegal act or social offense ?

    • Robin, you can only cover Srinagar – Leh Highway, Manali – Leh Highway and local sightseeing in Leh. Also, you can go over and visit Suru Valley from Kargil

      You cannot visit Pangong Tso and Nubra Valley.

  28. Nilavishek on

    Hi Sir,
    Can u clear my doubts whether permits are required for this route
    Manali-Leh-Khardungla-Nubra valley-Pangong-Marshim La-Tso Mori-Leh…

    Let me know which are the places in the above route where I require permits…….
    Any additional details will be appreciated……..Thanks

        • Yes, you can hire the taxi from Manali but that will drop you to Leh only. Then you need to hire a Leh based taxi to roam all other places in Ladakh. Else you can ask a Ladakhi driver to come and pick you up from Manali incase you want to have just one taxi for whole ladakh tour.

          For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2015 – 16 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-12% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

  29. Hi,
    to all i m planing to 11june 2015 to go by taxxi leh laddak. Rout is open this time. My rout is delhi to shimla-manali-keylong-leh.
    We are go only two person. Any one join this trip.. i have total 7 to 8 days this trip.

  30. Hi again Dheeraj,
    I have a few more queries regarding travel to Leh. We are a group of four people travelling to Leh, renting a taxi with a driver from Delhi. We plan to use the same rental car for the whole trip, i.e. from Delhi-Srinagar-Leh-Manali-Delhi.
    1) Is outside car (taxi from delhi) allowed for internal travelling within Leh (Nubra valley/Pangong/leh city).
    2) If yes, any permits required for the same?
    3) The driver will be a local from Delhi, can that be a problem of any sort?


    • Taxis outside Ladakh are not allowed to do any sightseeing within Leh – Ladakh. You can use them for drop-in and take-away modes only. So, the taxi you are hiring locally must have private number plate otherwise you will have to again hire a taxi within Ladakh and pay for your local taxi without using it.

      It is better to reach Srinagar by Air to save time and some energy. Then, hire a taxi to Kargil from Srinagar and fix a taxi of Ladakh number in Kargil (get help from drivers in the article of taxi rates linked below) which will allow you to do sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway as well (Srinagar taxi will not be allowed) and keep that Ladakh number taxi with you for rest of the trip.

  31. Hi Dheeraj! You’re doing a great job providing such great information through your posts! Kudos to that!
    i need a little help from you. I’m planning Leh from june 09- june 19, 2015. Delhi-Patnitiop-srinagar-kargil-leh-leh city-nubra valley-leh city-pangong tso-sarchu-manali-delhi.
    I am planning to leave for manali via sarchu from pangong tso directly. is this possible? what route do i take? any permits required for this?

    • Kanika, yes, if you can start early in the morning, you can take the route from Pangong Tso to Sarchu via Chang La – Karu – Upshi – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu. No permits needed for this.

  32. Thanks Dheeraj.

    We will also be traveling from Nubra Valley via Wari La – Chang La to Pangong Tso on 31st May. Will this road be open by then? Where can I check the status?

  33. Hello Dheeraj,

    We, family of 5 adults will be traveling to Ladakh from Srinagar between 28th May & 7th June. I am finding it extremely confusing to ascertain whether ILP is required to visit Moriri.

    I have followed the posts on DOW and it seems to suggest that ILP is not required for Moriri but the J&K tourism website (see the link below) says it is required. We called and checked with them again and they confirmed the same.

    Can you throw some light on this? Also is there any way to go from Pangong to Moriri directly without requiring ILP?

    Thanks very much.

    • Shweta there is no doubt that Tso Moriri does not require any permit and the circular says it all 🙂 🙂 … As long as you following the conventional route from Upshi – Chumathang – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri, you do not require any permits. However, the last line where you say direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, there you require a permit and even with the permit it is not assured that if army will allow you to pass through that route or not.

      • Thanks so much for your very prompt response.

        Hmm…so it seems that the J&K tourism website is not up to date. I see that going to Moriri via Chulshul will require ILP, what if we went from Spangmik-Lukung- Erath- dirt 4×4 track via Mitpal Tso and Hor La to Moriri. Would you recommend this route and also whether it require ILP?

        • Shweta, not at all. That route is more troublesome and army does not allow that route at all. Plus no one will be there on that route in case of any help.

  34. Hi dheeraj I have to go ley by road using sentro so pls advise my vehicle is right to traveling srinagar-leh-manali route and which is the best time to travel let ladhak I plan my trip 10june 2015

  35. Rahul Nathani on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the help/ guidance you have been providing.

    I, along with my friends will be travelling to Ladakh on bike. We will be having 4 bikes, all RE Classic 500CC (with pillion) and 1 back up vehicle. The following is our plan.

    14-Aug-15 Mumbai to Srinagar
    15-Aug-15 Srinagar to Kargil
    16-Aug-15 Kargil to Leh
    17-Aug-15 Leh Local
    18-Aug-15 Leh to Nubra
    19-Aug-15 Nubra to Pangong
    20-Aug-15 Pangong to Tsokar via Keylong
    21-Aug-15 Tsokar lake to Sarchu
    22-Aug-15 Sarchu to Rohtang pass to Manali
    23-Aug-15 Manali to Delhi

    The following are my queries:

    1. I understand that Nubra to Pangong will be most difficult part of our trip (please correct me if I am wrong). Which route will you suggest for it?
    2. As per the above plan, at which places will we require Inner Line Permits?
    3. What will suggest, Tso moriri or Tso Kar?
    4. At which routes will we require to carry fuel with us?
    5. We are planning to take bikes on rental. I hope it will be not be a problem as the bikes will not be in our name.
    6. Is august right time to be in Leh?

    Also, let me know if there is any place which according to you is worth visiting and I have missed.

    Looking forward to your reply. Cheers!!!

    P.S: This will be the first time we will be riding in such extreme conditions.


    • Hi Rahul

      following are my answers:

      1. Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not need any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from couple of year back in June & in July/August, most likely the route is washed away. Similar, reports are there from last year as well. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure.

      Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough. If your driver agrees to travel on this route then take the Wari La route to Pangong Tso. Remember that any help required on both these routes will be HARD to find in miles of distance. If you have couple of vehicles then only take this route otherwise best is to avoid it.

      2 + 3. I will suggest here to skip Tso Moriri and also on 20th, there is no such route to Tso Kar via Keylong from PAngong Tso. Keylong comes in Himachal when travel to Manali from Sarchu. On 20th, best will be that you come back towards Leh, either stay at Leh OR stay at Upshi. Tso Kar will be quite far from PAngong Tso and back to back long days will be tough.

      4. Refer:
      5. Are you planning to hire from Delhi? If yes, outside rental bikes are not allowed now in Ladakh. Bikes can be punded.
      6. For Ladakh August is fine, but you will face hassles on the way to Leh from Srinagar up to Kargil and then beyond Baralacha La Pass up to Manali – Delhi route.

      PS: Since, you are riding first time in such conditions, my personal advice will be to skip Wari La route as well and do conventional route only.


  36. Hi Dheeraj,

    First of all, I would like to express my gratitude to you. Your supplied information is really helpful.

    I have one question. I’m not indian national. So, I’m quite unfamiliar with the places and area that are mentioned above even after “googling” via Gmaps. So, just wanna get confirmation, as per my understanding, areas at Sham Valley do not required PAP, right? For example, from Leh, I visit Magnetic hill, Confluence of Indus- Zanskar river, Alchi, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib and Likir.

    Appreciate your advice.

    • Hi Zul,

      Thanks a lot. Yes, Sham Valley does not fall under Inner Line. You need to get permits for Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri in case you planning to visit any of these common places in Ladakh apart from Dah – Hanu and Batalik route where also you need permits. The article will be more helpful, check : Protected Area Permit in Ladakh for Foreigners


      • Thanks Dheeraj. I need another help. Just a quick review on my planned itinerary and few questions. This itinerary is modified from the common itinerary by air posted by you.

        My plan is to travel from 13/9/2015 till 19/9/2015. Just a very short trip.

        13/9/2015: Delhi- Leh by air. Expected to touch down around 9-10 am. Acclimatize once reach Leh. In the late afternoon, try to go sightseeing at local leh bazaar etc (if body permits)

        14/9/2015: Apply for Inner Line Permit in the morning. After obtain ILP, go for Sham Valley tour (Magnetic Hill- Confluence of Indus- Zanskar river- Gurudwara Pathar Sahib- Alchi- Likir- return to Leh).

        15/9/2015: Nubra Valley Trip (Leh- Khardung La- Diskit- Hunder)

        16/9/2015: Return to Leh from Nubra Valley (Hunder- Diskit- Sumur- Panamik- Khardung La- Leh)

        17/9/2015: Pangong Tso trip (Leh- Thiksey Monastery- Pangong Tso)

        18/9/2015: Return to Leh from Pangong Tso (Pangong Tso- Hemis Monastery- shey- druk white lotus school- Leh)

        19/9/2015: Leh- Delhi by air

        My questions:
        1. On what day DC office open? Is it open everyday or just on working days?
        2. On 14/9/2015, which is on monday, we plan to apply for permit through our guest house/ registered travel agents in Leh. Based on my reading, the approval is very swift. So, I assume it is manageable to apply for the permit and at the same time, pay a visit to sham valley. Is it ok?

        Thanks yaar!
        p/s. Actually, this is my 2nd try to reach ladakh. Last year, me and my friends were very unlucky. We planned to go by land to Ladakh via Srinagar- Leh highway on early June. However, due to landslide (happen after heavy rain), the road was closed and we had to cancel our trip and resorted to Plan B, which is Kashmir visit. I really hope this year everything will go smoothly, hence appreciate your review on our itinerary.

  37. Hi .

    I would be reaching leh on Feb 22 . My tour plan is
    Leh – Kargil ( I hope the roads will be open in winter also from leh to kargil )
    Kargil – Leh
    Leh – Khardungla
    Leh – Pangong Lake via changla pass
    Please do let me know if i require any special permit to visit Kargil

    • Viplav, no special permits are required to visit Kargil. However, you should rest completely on the first day after landing in Leh for some acclimatization. Mostly the roads are open barring few days of heavy snowfall.

  38. Dheeraj,
    your site is wornderful. I am gaining lot of info from here. And its awesome to know that now Indians do not need permits at some places in ladakh.
    in order to understand exact area/routes that are now permit free for Indians, is it possible to show it on a map with a green colour or so? and/or may be other permit required roads in red ?
    This is because, it is not easier to find the small villages that you mentioned as required permit type, on the google map or so.

    • Hrushi, nice suggestions. We have a DoW Map of Ladakh which we will try to enhance and suit it that ways to color code the villages where permit is required and where it is not. For a workaround, you can check the itinerary mentioned in the article below which covers almost all the tourist destination in Ladakh which a first timer will be interested in and the routes mentioned there does not require any permits. You can check the article: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh

      • I am interested in going following route.
        Manali – keylong stay – sarchu stay – tso moriri stay – mahe – mirpal tso – nama(or chushul) pangong tso stay leh stay

        to be precise, tso moriri to pangong is via mahe, yaye tso, hor la, kakasang la, mirpal tso, Satatho la, nama (or chushul), merak

        will I require permit for this route between two lakes ? for chushul one will require a permit as per your site. But if we go via Nama (as per google, one can skip chushul by this way), will I require a permit?
        if permit is required, is it possible to get permits in Manali (officially or through travel agents) ? or only place to get it is Leh?

        another different query than this page is, on any site on internet including DoW, does not give any information about renting a bike in Srinagar. Can you please include that on your site? If renting is possible, is it possible to drop the bike in manali or any other place? On internet, there is one such site that allows renting a bike in manali and dropping in srinagar, delhi etc.
        I believe lot of people are interested in this information as per my search on internet.

        Last but not the least, I am extremely grateful for your site with its immensely valuable information.

        • hrushi, you will not be allowed to go through that route. That route is forbidden and army do not allow it unless you are too too lucky and they allow you which is quite unlikely. Also, that route is completely isolated, in case army allows you and you get stuck then you are no where near any help. And yes, you need inner line permits for this route and need to mention these places on the permit form. Permit cannot be taken from Manali, they have to be taken from Leh DC Office and that too in person especially for this route. Here is the article detailing the process: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh

          Regarding your other query, all the details are present here on DoW may be missed or not searchable enough 😀 …

          Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh except Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes which can be done while going to Manali from Leh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

          To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

          Since, this is the first time rule is getting implemented no one is sure what will happen or what will not. I personally feel larger groups will be targetted more than smaller groups or individuals.

          For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh along with current Bike Union Prices, you can check the DoW Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

          the one way bike rental is quite costly and leave a big dent in pocket for you, sometimes like 12K for just the pickup from Manali. Be sure if you are ready to make that investment or not or if at all it is worth the money spent. My suggestion is unless you are hard core biker and cannot live up the passion of biking, it is not wise to spend that much money just for the pickup of bike.

          For Srinagar bike rental you can refer the link:

  39. Pingback: Protected Area Permit in Ladakh for Foreigners - Devil On Wheels™

  40. Hello Dheeraj, What about Bangladeshis?do they have to take inner line permit from Delhi?Can’t we manage it from Leh?
    Your help would be greatly appreciated.

    • No, you need to apply it from Delhi only. Permit for citizens of Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Burma are issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs (MHA) and permits for those people who are on diplomatic or official VISA are issued by the Ministry of External Affairs (MEA) in Delhi. 

    • Thanks Dheeraj. How many days it will take to manage the permit from Delhi?Do you please help me providing the procedures?You can just gimme any official link. No need to give details here.
      Thanks in advance.

      • Anindya, till date, to whomsoever I interacted from Bangladesh and who were seeking the permits, have not been able to get any success in acquiring the permits or if anyone did, they never shared back with me, may be. So, I am not really sure. It should be a long process I believe as one girl I forgot the name even took to much time to apply for it and still in vein. She posted the experience and details in a thread on India Mike, please try searching for it there.

        • Dheeraj,
          I’ve heard that now there are possibilities to get leagal permit from Leh to visit Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake and Tso Moriri Lake.
          Do you have any update regarding this?

          Thanks in advance

  41. nagendra kushwah on

    hi dheeraj,can u plan the itinerary for us as we planned the bike trip in first week of sept from manali to leh,days we have 12-15…thx

  42. Farogh mahmood on

    dear dheeraj, google maps shows a road from tangste to mahe via harong, nama and mirpal tso. have you been on that road? if yes, then please tell what is the condition of the road and is it doable if we are denied permit for merak chushul hanle route to go directly to tso morriri from pangong

    • Farogh, the route that goes from Nama – Kaksang La – Mitpal Tso is completely desolated and not at all suggested for vehicles not having 4×4. The Kaksang La is even higher than Khardung La in actual altitude measurements and climb to it with sharp stones is not that recommended. Also, army uses this route as an alternate only in case required, so in case of any help there will not be any one around and also, there could be possibility that route might be closed at some point and then you cannot ask for any help anywhere. These alternate routes are cleared on and off basis.

      Above all, to enter this route as well, you need to submit the papers at Chusul Checkpost where actually they will deny the permissions and there is an extra permissions to enter this route that is given by army 🙂 🙂 … So, you can try your luck if required but recently only there was a member in the community who was returned after having permits from Chusul.

  43. Deepak Agnani on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    One quick help.
    We have a private Delhi passed car that we are driving from Delhi to Leh.

    Will there be any problems in using the car internally in Leh?
    Please let us know if we need to carry any permits..


    • Deepak, since it is a private number car with white number plate then there should not be any issue at all. In case you are traveling from Manali side yo Leh, then you need to take permit to drive on Manali to Rohtang Pass road. In case you are going via Srinagar side, then you do not need any permits.

  44. Hi Deepak,
    Your Blog is just Amazingly Wonderful. It has been very helpful in planning for us. My wife and me are planning a trip to Leh by plane. We are planning to travel from 2nd August to 11 August. I had a few questions and I would be highly obliged if you canhelp me with this. Our Itenary is as follows.
    Day 1 Arrive at Leh. Acclimatize
    Day 2 Local Sightseeing Leh
    Day 3: Alchi via nimmu (Or even Lamayuru to see moonscape) and back
    Day 4: Pangong (Spangmik) Via Chang La
    Day 5: Back to Leh from pangong
    Day 6: Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder-Diskit
    Day 7: Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
    Day 8: Tso Moriri via Chumathang-Mahe-Sumdo-Karzok (211 Km)
    Day 9: Tso Moriri-Tso Kar- Leh (232Km)
    Day 10: Fly Back

    1)Is this itenary Ok or do u have some suggestions?
    2)Is Lamayuru worth it or can we skip and save one day?
    3)We Are planning to do all of local sightseeing by Bike. Is it safe and how easy is it to get petrol on these routes especially Tso Moriri.
    4) In case we get tired by bike rides which route should we do by Car/Xylo etc? We dont want to lose the charm of the Leh Landscape. But just in case we are not able to bike which place can we compromise for Car?
    4) We are NRIs staying in Dubai since one year. Do we need permits as per the new rules?
    5) Can you suggest some places to stay according to your experience at the places mentioned. Budget may not be a constraint.
    6)Is it OK if we go hotel Hunting on the spot or prior bookings is recommended? Is August Peak season?
    7)Is it easy to get a Bike on rent easily and are the bikes well maintained? Since we will be alone is it safe especially if there is a mechanical failure or something? is help accessible and available easily for roadside assistance?

    I would be highly Obliged if you can reply.
    Thanks and regards

    • Thanks Aneez, just a little correction, it is Dheeraj 🙂

      Below are my replies to your queries:

      1) Your itinerary is OK except the fact that just do Nubra Valley first and then Pangong Tso so that you are more acclimatized to the conditions to sleep at Pangong Tso.
      2) Instead of Lamayuru, try to focus just on Sham Valley with Alchi and Likir in place and make it less hectic.
      3) No petrol is available apart from Karu and Leh. You need to tank up everytime you come back to Leh or start for these trips. I hope you have decent experience of riding in hills.
      4) Take it as it comes. In case you feeling tired after Nubra then do rest of the tour by car, same applies to Pangong.
      5) All foreign nationals, NRIs having PIOs or OCIs need PAP (Protected Area Permit) to visit Inner Line areas of Ladakh which has been now waived of for Indian Nationals starting May 2014 only. He/she must be in a group of 2 or more foreigners and PAP must be applied at DC Office with required fees through a registered Travel Agent in Leh. Also, go through the thread in DoW Community: Inner Line Permit and application letter for foreigners

      6) You can check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate (cheap budget hotels as well) in the series of articles starting on the link here

      7) It is season time always in Ladakh when the roads are open with April / September being the leanest among all. So, in case you are OK to search here and there a bit, it should be fine with on the spot bookings too.

      8) In general, bikes in Leh are new models. For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh along with current Bike Union Prices, you can check the DoW Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

      • Sorry Dheeraj regarding your name 🙂
        And thankyou so much for your reply. I have modified my itenary as per your advice. Infact after reading more in the blog I have changed my itenary a lot. I just have one query. I was seeing the list of hotels on your blog and the websites like offbeat escapes and even hotels websites. There is a big diference in the prices. For example on your website the price for Hotel Standel in 800-1200 whereas Offbeat and other online website gave me a rate of 3000 per night!!!
        Anyway, after going through your blog we have decided that we will not pre book hotels for Leh and would go there and search. But I am still confused about Pangong Pso and Tso Moriri. The prices quoted by Offbeat is 3400 with meals.
        So what is your advice regarding pre-booking for Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri.
        Regarding Inner line permits, we are still Indian Citizens. We dont have PIO or OCI status. We are NRIs just by virtue of staying away from India for more than 6 months and hence our salaries are taxfree. Thats its. we can still vote in india. So do we still fall in category of PAP or are we exempted?
        Thanks once again for your help and advices.

        • Sorry sent you the wrong itenary 🙁
          here is the corrected final Itenary
          Day1 – 31st July: Fly to Srinagar from Bombay
          o Reach at around 2 pm
          o Srinagar Dal Lake
          o Overnight at hotel at Srinagar.
          Day 2 — 1st August | Srinagar, – Sonamarg – Zoji La – Drass – Kargil
          o About 8 Hrs drive, depend upon the traffic movement at Zojila and breaks you take in between
          o Approx 200 Kms
          o overnight at Kargil
          Day 3 –- 2nd August | Kargil – Lamayaru – Leh
          o Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes, Redzong monastery
          o On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, confluence at Nimmu
          o Overnight at Leh
          o Approx 225 Kms
          o About 9-10 Hrs drive, , depending upon the breaks you take in between

          Day 4—3rd August | Leh and Local Sightseeing
          o Local sightseeing including Leh Palace, Main Market, Shanti Stupa, Hemis, Thiksey and Samstanling monasteries
          o overnight at Leh
          Day 5—4th August | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder – Diskit (Nubra Valley)
          o Visit Diskit old and new monastery including the tallest Buddha statue
          o In the evening you can go for double humped camel ride at Hunder
          o See the confluence of rivers at Diskit.
          o Overnight at Diskit/ Hunder
          o Approx 120 kms
          o About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and at Khardung La
          Day 6 – 5th August | Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          o Visit Sumur and Panamik and finally return to Leh.
          o Panamik has hot water springs and Sumur has a nice monastery.
          o overnight at Leh
          o Approx 150 Kms
          o About 7-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
          Day 7 – 6th August | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
          o Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          o Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)
          o Approx 160 Kms
          o About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
          Day 8 – 7th August | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
          o Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
          o Overnight at Leh
          o About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
          Day 9 – 8th August | Leh – Upshi – Chumathang – Mahe – Tso Moriri
          o Overnight at Tso Moriri, Karzok.
          o Cover Karzok Monastery.
          o Approx 211 Kms drive
          o About 7-9 hours drive depending on breaks and stops.
          Day 10 – 9th August | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring – Tanglang La – Leh
          o Stay overnight at Leh
          o Approx 232 Kms
          o About 7-8 hours drive depending on breaks and stops
          Day 11 – 10th August | Leh Local rest / Sham Valley
          o Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib
          o Overnight at Leh
          Day 12 – 11th August | Fly From Leh to Bombay

        • Aneez, the prices put up on DoW are mostly the walkin prices and those articles as mentioned in them are couple of years old now. So, consider about increment of 10-15% rates every year in hotels. Also, talking over phone and booking will always cost you about 30-35% more than what you actually get when you do walkin and hence I always walkin and see properties and take it 🙂 🙂 … Best way to save money 😀

          If you can search a little here and there, just carry along the print out of the list of stay options with you then there is no need to pre-book. Just go there and save some money and if by chance you happen to be happy to spread smiles, please execute our initiatives of DoW Causes on your own when you travel there, in order to help the local community up there in remote Himalayas. You can check more details about them at: DoW – Causes | A Step Towards Responsible Travel and can execute them on your own 🙂 🙂

  45. Deepak Agnani on


    We have the below plan for Leh and would like to take insights from you on the itinerary:

    8th Aug – Delhi to Manali
    9th Aug – Manali to Keylong
    10th Aug – Keylong – Leh
    11th Aug – 14th Aug – Need suggestions on places that can be visited in Leh
    15th Aug – Leh to Sarchu
    16th Aug – Sarchu to Manali
    17th Aug – Manali to Delhi

    We were also planning to return to Delhi via Srinagar but are not sure if we can fir that in our plan.

    Any help is highly appreciated.

    • Deepak, you can do following:

      12: Rest in Leh and get acclimatized. visit Shanti Stupa in the evening
      13: Day trip to Khardung La
      14: Day trip to Pangong Tso.

      If you plan to return from Srinagar side then you need one day more and hence need to scrape off either Khardung La or Pangong Tso

      • Deepak Agnani on

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks for the reply.

        1. We are reaching Leh on 10th Aug early evening. We will have 4 days in hand.

        2. Also, we read your post where you suggested to take the Srinagar-Leh highway while going and coming back by the Manali-Leh highway.

        3. We are traveling by our own car. We leave from Delhi on 8th August and have to be back on 17th Aug by night.

        You think this is a good plan? Is it achievable?

        Help is much appreciated. 🙂

        • Since, you will have 4 days in hand then you can actually do 2 day trip to Nubra Valley and 1 day trip to Pangong Tso lake after taking one complete day of rest in Leh for acclimatization on 11th aug. I am not sure if you will be able to make it to Leh on 10th evening in case you leaving Delhi on 8th. It takes 4 days to reach Leh from Delhi via Srinagar.

  46. Hello Dheeraj, Really want to thank you for your inputs. These are the valuable ones which helped me during my previous trip to Leh. I am planning my second trip and I wanted to know the procedure to obtain ILP for batalik (kargil-batalik-khaltse). Do I need to mention the complete route in the form?

  47. Gautam Kumbhakar on

    Dear Dhiraj
    Thanks a lot for your quick response.After considering your opinions, I made the programme given below. Is it OK? If not, what should we do ? Our programme is :
    Aug 3 Arrived Jammu station at 12-30 pm. Go to Katra & visit Mata Vaishnodevi.(One way by Helicopter).O/N at Katra.
    Aug 4 Katra to Srinagar. O/N at Srinagar.
    Aug 5 Srinagar to Kargil. O/N at Kargil.
    Aug 6 Kargil to Leh. O/N at Leh
    Aug 7 Leh to Takthok Monastery to see the festival, en-route Hemis, Shey,Thiksey etc. O/N at Leh.
    Aug 8 Leh to Dah to Leh.O/N at Leh.
    Aug 9 Leh-Khardung La-Khalsar-Panamik-Khalsar-Hundar. O/N at Hundar.
    Aug 10 Hundar-Turtuk-Deskit-Khalsar/Agham. O/N at Khalsar/Agham.(Are there any accommodation at Agham ?)
    Aug 11 Khalsar/Agham-Wari La-Karu (for Petrol) -Tangtse-Pangong Tso. O/N at Spangmik.
    Aug 12 Rest at 1sthalf. In 2nd. half, Spangmik—Karu/Upshi. O/N at Karu/Upshi. (Which is better ? )
    Aug 13 Karu/Upshi –Chumathang – Mahe -Tso Moriri. O/N at Korzok.
    Aug 14 Tso Moriri-Tso Kar-Morey Plain-Sarchu. O/N at Sarchu.
    Aug 15 Sauchu-Keylong-Manali-Kullu. O/N at Kullu.
    Aug 16 Kullu-Shimla-Kalka. Train at 11-55 pm.
    Also I have questions
    1. For carrying petrol, where we can buy jerry cans ?
    2. Is it safe to carry petrol in jerry cans ?
    3. What will be the day and night temperature at that time ?
    Pls. help us.We are very tensed about this tour as it is our first bike tour.

    • Gautam, your plan more or less is pretty fine. But I will suggest following tweaks
      Day 9 : Leh to Turtuk and stay overnight there
      Day 10 : Turtuk to Hunder and stay overnight at Hunder or Deskit. Hardly 1 Hr difference form Khalsar where you divert for Wari La. So, just start early on Day 11 from Hunder or Deskit and you should be good.

      Between Upshi and Karu, I think Upshi will have the options of stay, try to see if you can go over to Chumathang for stay.

      Regarding other queries:
      1. You get in Mayapuri in Delhi if you from Delhi NCR.
      2. Yeah, safe. You can carry them in 2 ltrs Coke Bottles too as they are leak proof, so provide better slippage safety. Good quality jerry cans also are slippage proof.
      3. Night will be cool to cold and days will be warm to cool, depending upon overcast conditions

      • Gautam Kumbhakar on

        Dear Dhiraj
        Many many thanks for your valuable suggestions . I will try my best to follow your instructions. It will be a immense help if I get answers of some more queries.
        1. Is there any time schedule to cross Zozi La by bike ? Is it one way or both way ?
        2. We want to buy jerry cans from Leh as we are going from Howrah (Kolkata) to Jammu directly by Howrah Jammu Himgiri Exp. Is there any shop at Leh from where we can buy Jerry cans?
        3. As far as I know, ILP is required for the route from Nubra Vally to Pangong Tso via Wari La. Is it hard to get like Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul ?
        4. I want to do some outdoor night photography at Hundar, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. So it is very important to me to know the approximate temperature at night (around 10 pm.) of that places . In overcast/normal weather, will it be below zero at that time ?
        5. If I borrow a bike from my friend (outside of our team) , what extra papers should we carry apart from Driving licence, Blue book etc. ?
        Waiting for your response. With regards

        • Dear Gautam

          Please find my replies below:

          1. Currently there is schedule to cross Zoji La Pass. Traffic from Drass is allowed from 2 AM to 7 AM and from Sonamarg, 2 PM to 7 PM. But, as the season progress and snow disappear, the timings also gets relaxed.
          2. Sorry brother no idea about this one. May be you will get, else get 2 Ltrs Coke Bottles which are very much leak proof too.
          3. IMO ILP may not be required for Nubra Valley or Wari La. Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri it is very hard to get and recently many people were returned from the Chusul Checkpost even after having permits.
          4. It will not be below zero in night at this time of the year. Should be somewhere 5-8 deg C if I can guess.
          5. It will be difficult to ride it without issues as many bikes have been pounded recently. It has to be in your name or father’s name as per the rules laid by Bike Union of Leh.


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