NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

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NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

Postby bivashd » Wed Apr 19, 2017 11:02 pm

The Durga Puja holidays were approaching and I was getting eager for an escape to the Himalayas. After few sessions of searching the internet I called up a friend for suggestions and he forwarded the contact number of Shri Gangaram from Munsiyari with whom he had done Milam Glacier trek earlier. I called him up to explore some options and finally decided on the Nanda Devi East Base camp trek after reading a few blogs on this trek. The blog of Kiran Chakravadhanula is very detailed and had lot of impressive pictures. I booked train tickets for Ranikhet Express from Delhi to Kathgodam and emailed Gangaji my Voter ID and passport photo in order to arrange necessary permission from ITBP.

07th Oct'2016 : Delhi to Haldwani :Boarded the Ranikhet Express at 10.30PM from New Delhi Railway station. The approach to the station was quite messy at that time of the night also.

08th Oct'2016 : Haldwani to Munsiyari: The train was running late and by the time it reached Haldwani it was already 7.30 A.M. The shared jeeps to Munsiyari start very early so I called up the driver of the shared jeep who was supposed to pick me up and he told me he had already left half an hour ago. Called up Gangaji who told me to get off at Haldwani and board a shared jeep to Thal which is 70kms from Munsiyari. Finally found a shared jeep for Thal and started the journey at around 9.30 A.M. It was already late and to make matters worse a co-passenger who was supposedly working in the Army and heading to his home at Berinag got drunk and started creating all sorts of nuisance. He would ask the driver to stop at his will and was troubling other passengers too. With all this action and drama finally reached Thal at around 5 P.M. By this time there were no shared jeeps for Munsiyari. Called up Gangaji again and he could arrange a taxi to pick me up from Thal. Finally reached Munsiyari late in the evening where I found Gangaji waiting for me at the hotel. Tired and exhausted I had dinner and retired for the night.

09th Oct'2016: Munsiyari to Bawalidhar : Woke up to beautiful sunshine on a chilly morning. The view from the hotel (Vijay Mount View Resort) was excellent. The town looked beautiful with Panchachuli peaks in the backdrop. Nothing much had changed since I was in Munsiyari long back in 2007 when a friend was posted there in a hydro power project. After breakfast at the hotel, Gangaji came and we drove off to the starting point of our trek Chilam dar. We started from Chilamdar at around 10 AM. The start of the trek had a steep descent and again a steep ascent after crossing the Goriganga river. Lack of exercise and a city lifestyle was showing up on me already. We reached Pumdev in the afternoon and had lunch in the dhaba run by Mohan Sing ji. After lunch we started again at around 1 PM. The trail had steep ascents and was quite tiring for me. It was getting dark by the time we reached the dhaba at Bawalidhar. After a dinner of Dal chawal we settled for the night.

10th Oct'2016: Bawalidhar to Rilkot : This would turn out to be the toughest day of the trek. We started after breakfast from Bawalidhar and reached Nahardevi by 2 P.M. The ITBP checks the permissions at Bugdiyar camp. Had lunch at Nahardevi and decided to push upto Rilkot. We walked on and the destination seemed to be getting further away. My legs had started aching and it was getting dark. The moon came up and we were still another 3-4 Kms away from Rilkot. We could see the lights at ITBP camp in Rilkot from a great distance and with hopes and last bit of energy we kept on walking. Finally by the time we reached Rilkot it was around 10PM. I was completely exhausted and did not felt like having dinner. After having a little food, took a paracetamol and disprin and went off to sleep.

11th Oct'2016 : Rilkot to Ghanghar : This was relatively easy day with less change in altitudes. We reached Martoli at around noon, had lunch and collected some food stuff for dinner and tent for camping for the night at Ghanghar. The villagers at Martoli had left for the lower grounds as winter was approaching. It was a unique and a little spooky experience watching deserted villages and stone houses abandoned on the way. We reached Ghanghar before dark and set up camp inside a deserted dhaba. We could catch a glimpse of the Nanda Devi from that place.There was not a single soul in the village. Only a light coming from a far off ITBP camp was the only sign of Human presence. A dog had meantime joined us and giving us company. As Gangaji was busy preparing dinner, I decided to look around for a place to get a shot of the Nanda Devi under the moonlight. It was a unique experience with silence all around and a deserted village under the moonlight. The dog was there all the time and at night I could hear it snoring. Never imagined dogs could also snore.

12th Oct 2016: Ghanghar to View point to Nahardevi: Gangaji Woke me up early to catch the sunrise over Nanda Devi. I could feel the excitement and adrenaline rush as I desperately climbed up the mountain to catch the first rays of the sun on the mountain. The temperature must have been sub zero as I could see frost on the ground but I was sweating by the time I reached the top. Finally the first rays of sun lit up the mountain peak and I could feel a sense of accomplishment within me. After a breakfast of noodles we started our return journey from Ghanghar. Found a GREF truck going towards Rilkot and both of us jumped on it. This was by far the most bone shaking experience I had till date. After getting down I checked thoroughly whether any bone in my body had been dislodged. Had lunch at Rilkot and moved towards Nahardevi. That night I had the best sleep.

13th Oct 2016 : Nahardevi to Pumdev: This was all the way back. Came across many groups of foreigners and Indians going for Milam Glacier. Had lunch at Bawalidhar and reached Pumdev in the evening.

14th Oct 2016 : Pumdev to Munsiyari : We reached Munsiyari before noon. That night we partied hard. Gangaji, Myself, Laxmanji(Ganga jis relative) with their group of friends on a moonlit night at the Munsiyari Helipad.

15th Oct 2016: Munsiyari to Haldwani by shared jeep and Haldwani to Delhi overnight by UPSRTC bus.

This was a very challenging trek for me as I had done almost 100 Kms in less than 6 days. However, the experience was unique. I am planning to do the Panchachuli base camp with Gangaji next time. I would recommend Mr. Gangaram for any trek in the Kumaon region. His contact no. is 9568163053. In Munsiyari everyone knows him and his relative Lakhsman ji. He had requested me to send him three framed photographs-one of us together at Rilkot, one of Mt.Nanda Devi under moonlight and another taken at sunrise. I sent him these after a few months which now adorns his home. Posting a few images made during this trek

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Deserted
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Panchchuli Peaks in moonlight
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Fire and Ice
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First rays of Sun on the Nanda Devi
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The Nanda Devi in Moonlight
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Hide and Seek
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My guide and saviour
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Re: NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

Postby Shivendra009 » Wed Apr 19, 2017 11:31 pm

@bivashd sir ji beautifully narration , only three pics ? Feed us more :P :P :P
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Re: NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

Postby dheerajsharma14 » Thu Apr 20, 2017 8:22 am

That is an awesome start and the pictures are just jaw dropping !! :D :D

Hooked to a travel tale here after a long time :)
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Re: NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

Postby bivashd » Thu Apr 20, 2017 11:04 am

Thank you Shivendra009 and Dheeraj ji...I could not concentrate on taking pictures during this trek as it was physically tiring for me due to long walks. Infact this is a 7-8 days trek which I completed in around 5 days..Posting some more pics from this trek...Btw I am just back from Kuari Pass trek day before yesterday..It was a good one for me..Will soon post the pics and a short travelogue.. :D ..Cheers!

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Deserted Village
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Chachaji, Owner of the dhaba at Bawalidhar
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Re: NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

Postby dheerajsharma14 » Fri Apr 21, 2017 7:20 am

Those are just lovely shots brother !! You still managed to steal some great moments... So, that means we will be treated with another tale :)
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Re: NANDA DEVI EAST BASE CAMP TREK

Postby sharada » Fri Apr 21, 2017 11:58 am

Amazing pictures... Its actually tempting :) 100kms in less than 6 days... really adventurous :o
Waiting for Kuari pass travel tale with many more colorful pics...
Travel far enough, you meet yourself.-David Mitchelle
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