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Travel Guide for Tso Moriri Lake in Ladakh

 

Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

Tso Moriri lake in Changthang region of Ladakh is one of the most beautiful, calm and sacred (for ladakhis) high altitude lakes in India. In fact, it is the largest high altitude lake in India that is entirely in Indian Territory. This beautiful blue pallet lake is about 7 KM wide at its broadest point and about 19 KM long. Being part of the wetland reserve under Ramsar site, it is actual known as Tsomoriri Wetland Conservation Reserve and one cannot pitch any tents or construct anything near the banks of the lake. It is the highest Ramsar site in the world. A large number of flora and fauna is found in the region. Since, it is very near to the Line of Actual Control, one need to get Inner Line Permit to visit Tso Moriri. You can get more details on Inner Line Permits here: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh. Starting May 2014, Indian Tourists does not need Inner Line Permits for Tso Moriri. Read more about it here

The beautiful multi shades of blue color offered by this lake along with a picturesque landscape around gives this place an extremely romantic feel and breathtaking feel. However, in actual reality the place is extremely harsh and difficult to survive especially in winters. There is only one cemented accommodation available around the lake and the facilities like electricity, medical aid, hot running water, western toilets etc. are rare to find. The lack of oxygen makes survival difficult if your body is not properly acclimatized to its high altitude and hence, one need to plan his/her journey extremely carefully to make it acute mountain sickness free vacation.

Tso Moriri Lake in Ladakh

Photo credit: Kaushik Dada at IndiaMike

Location

Tso Moriri lake is located about 240 KMs from Leh town of Ladakh district.

Altitude

Tso Moriri lake is one of the high altitudes lakes of India at a staggering altitude of 4595 Meters or 15075 Feet, yes higher than Pangong Tso.

Season for Traveling to Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

In January to March, Tso Moriri remains mostly frozen, extremely cold conditions with no options to stay around the lake. In April types, it starts to melt and starts transforming into the beautiful multi shades of blue colors off the shores. Then May, June, July and August is the peak tourist season but as compared to Pangong Tso it gets less number of tourist.

Come September and early October, the tourists starts to reside as cold starts to set in and accommodation tents starts to pack up nearing to lake. According to me, this is by far the best time to visit Tso Moriri to see full glory of beautiful shades of blue color. The colors are purely magical at this time of the year and with less number of tourist comparatively, you get better deals and enjoy more. After second week of October up to December, all the accommodation packs up and the only nearest place you can stay is either in some home stay type guest house at Korzok village or at Chumathang with basic facilities to fight the harsh cold. Chumathang is at much lower in altitude and one can stay there if visiting at the onset or in winters.

How to Reach Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh
Route from Leh to Tso Moriri Lake

This is the general route to Tso Moriri that most people take to visit this ever beautiful lake in Ladakh. You can reach in about 6 – 7 Hrs depending upon the number of break you take in between. The route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:

Leh – Karu (36 KMs) – Upshi (13 KMs) – Kumdok (19 KMs) – Kere (53 KMs) – Chumathang (34 KMs) – Mahe (22 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Korzok or Tso Moriri(53 KMs) = 240 KMs

You can cover Thicksey, Hemis and Shey monasteries while going through this route, if you haven’t covered them earlier while going to Pangong Tso. This route provides the best road conditions among all other routes. So, if you are one of those who prefer relaxing vacation and do not want to rush through places then, I will suggest make a two day trip to Tso Moriri lake via this route from Leh. Of course, I assume your body has been acclimatized properly by staying for couple of nights in Leh and spending a night or two in Nubra Valley as well before attempting to sleep near Tso Moriri or Korzok. If you are short on time then you can also exit towards Manali via Manali – Leh Highway from Tso Moriri via this route only but you need to esnure you have enough fuel to cover about 550 KMs without any fuel pump.

Route from Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake

There exist a direct and an indirect route between Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso as well and in most general cases, you will always be doing it from direct route of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri because you can exit Ladakh from Tso Moriri towards Manali – Leh Highway after visiting Tso Moriri without coming back towards Leh and secondly, Tso Moriri is higher than Pangong Tso so as per acclimatization schedule you should stay near Pangong Tso before spending night at Tso Moriri.

Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake via Changthang (Merak – Chusul – Nyoma)

You can go to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso directly via the remote and ever beautiful Changthang region. The drive between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri is one of the most beautiful drives in whole Ladakh region. Foreigners are not allowed to go beyond Man – Merak Villages as permits are not issued to them for this route. Hence, they need to follow the indirect, slighly longer route to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso. You need to mention all the places mentioned in the route below on your permit form in order to under take this route. The route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:

Spangmik (Pangong Tso) – Man (9 KMs) – Merak (12 KMs)– Kakstet (4 KMs) – Chusul (24 KMs) – Tsaga La (33 KMs) – Tsaga Village (20 KMs) – Loma (23 KMs) – Nyoma (22 KMs) – Mahe (25 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Tso Moriri / Korzok (53 KMs) = 235 KMs

You need to make sure you carry fuel for about 550 – 600 KMs because you will be covering Leh – Pangong Tso – Nyoma – Loma – Tso Moriri – Leh without any other petrol pump. And if you want to exit Ladakh through Manali – Leh Highway from Tso Moriri then also carry petrol/diesel for about 650 – 700 KMs as the next petrol pump will be available at Tandi. Otherwise, you need to come back to Karu or Upshi, refill and move back again towards Manali – Leh Highway.

Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake via Chumathang

The indirect route that goes via Chumathang is the longer one, where you need to go all the way back from Pangong Tso to Leh upto Karu and from there you can take left towards Upshi – Chumathang – Korzok to reach Tso Moriri. This route can be followed by foreign tourists who are not allowed the permit for Changthang (Man – Merak – Chusul etc) region, if they do not want to go back to Leh. But, IMO one must go back to Leh from Pangong Tso, refresh themselves and start towards Tso Moriri next morning instead of very long day via Chumathang. You need to mention both Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso on your permit form in order to under take this route. The route along with distance between the subsequent places is as follows:

Spangmik – Lukung (16 KMs) – Tangtse (34 KMs) – Durbuk (9 KMs) – Chang La (32 KMs) – Sakti (34 KMs) – Karu (10 KMs) – Upshi (13 KMs) – Kumdok (19 KMs) – Kere (53 KMs) – Chumathang (34 KMs) – Mahe (22 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Korzok or Tso Moriri(53 KMs) = 339 KMs

Do not forget to refill petrol/diesel at Karu or Upshi petrol pump and if you want to exit Ladakh through Manali – Leh Highway then also carry petrol/diesel for about 500 – 550 KMs as the next petrol pump will be available at Tandi. Otherwise, you need to come back to Karu or Upshi, refill and move back again towards Manali – Leh Highway.

Preferred Vehicles

The higher ground clearance vehicles are preferable and 4×4 ones would definitely be helpful especially between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri via Man – Merak – Chusul – Nyoma (Changthang) route. However, for general route via Chumathang, quite a few people do it in hatchbacks and sedans as well which depends upon your skills to drive and road conditions at the time of travel.

Suggested Itinerary for Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

Generally, at least one night stay is preferable to truly witness the mesmerizing beauty of this blue colored salt water lake. Of course, one night stay will help you watch sunrise and sunset over the picturesque landscape and increase the charm of your vacation to great extent. Most people, generally do:

Day 1 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang

  • Cover Korzok Monastery
  • Overnight at Tso Moriri or Korzok

Day 2 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring – Taglang La – Rumste – Upshi – Karu – Leh

You can also check the most common and very well balanced itinerary for whole Leh – Ladakh region covering all major tourist destination including Srinagar – Leh Highway and Manali – Leh Highway, at the below link: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh

Accommodation Options at Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

You cannot find accommodation at Tso Moriri lake on the banks because it is restricted to pitch the camps there being a wetland reserve and sanctuary for migratory birds. You can pitch the tents near the other tented colonies pitched just before Korzok village or find an accommodation in Korzok village. Both ways you will definitely have a clear and broad view of the 24 KM in length, 6 KM in width this magnificent blue colored high altitude lake – Tso Moriri (Tsomoriri Wetland Conservation Reserve)

For a comprehensive list of accommodation options or hotels or camps around Tso Moriri lake, check the link here: Good Hotels or Accommodation options near Tso Moriri – Ladakh

Medical Facilities near Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

The nearest basic medical health center may be available at Korzok Village though I am not that sure about it. You can get basic first aid including Oxygen doses at some of the tents/camps, I guess.

Food Joints near Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

Being a remote place, you will either be eating in the home stay at Korzok Village or at the camps/tents near Korzok in which you might be staying overnight.

Phone Signals at Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

You will not find any phone or mobile signals at Tso Moriri lake.

Petrol Pumps near Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

Nearest Petrol Pump is at Karu (about 204 KMs) from Tso Moriri and comes on the way to Tso Moriri from Leh. I will suggest that you top-up the fuel from Leh itself and then drive/ride up to to Tso Moriri.

ATMs near Tso Moriri Lake – Ladakh

You will not find any ATMs near Tso Moriri lake and hence, it is always better to carry cash from Leh (the only place where you find ATM in Ladakh) itself.

Conclusion

It is a great place to visit and I am sure if you visit Ladakh, this one surely is not the place you would like to exclude from your plan. I hope the above information will be useful for your upcoming Leh – Ladakh trip.

Please feel free to post any queries or doubts you might have in planning your trip to Tso Moriri place in the comments section below. If you have been to Tso Moriri lake, kindly share your thoughts and other information you might feel will be worth sharing with other fellow travelers and prove helpful to them.

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240 Comments

  1. sudeep says:

    Also on the route to tso moriri from pangong via karu, is there any stay option/hotel/guesthouse

  2. sudeep says:

    Hi,
    I was looking at the map n jus wondering on the way to tso moriri from pangong tso via chusul can I skip tsaga la. Tk a turn after completing chusul reach mahe via kaksangla

    • Sudeep, that route is quite dangerous and risky and no one takes that route. It is an alternate in case of emergencies for army. If anything happens there, there is no one for rescue too. So, take a call accordingly. If you are not allowed to pass through Chusul, you will not be able to take any of these routes.

      • sudeep says:

        Thanks Dheeraj, one thing that’s not related to this thread. I hv a DSLR wid 18-55 lens is that gud engh fr ladakh or do I need to buy 55-250 as well

        • Sudeep, may be some wider lens will help you more because you will like to cover as much possible as you can in wide valley of Ladah. I have a 70-300 and rarely gets it out to change and take a shot. Unless you are interested to take some close portrait shots of persons or wildlife, 55-250 will not serve you much. You will see majority of picture you will click will be of 18-20 range only when you come back :)

  3. pub says:

    Hi, it’s wonderful to see the good work that you are doing. I too had a query. I prefer travelling alone on my bike. Have been to ladakh last year alone. covered delhi-manali-Leh-nubra-pangong-srinagar-delhi last year and missed out on Tso moriri. This year too I will be going in September solo and would want to cover Tso moriri. is it advisable to take the route before Pang on route Leh from Manali or should I come back from Leh and do a one night, two days trip to Moriri. Especially since I am travelling alone.

    • Pranab, it is NOT recommended at all to sleep at Tso Moriri while going to Leh from Manali side because of high altitude of the lake and your body will not be acclimatized by then. It is best that you do the trip to Tso Moriri when you return from the trip to rest of the Ladakh. Which dates are you planning?

    • Ikshit shah says:

      Hi dheeraj,
      We were planning to visit Leh Ladakh on 29th July and returning on 5th Morning.
      Day 1: 30th July: Arrive Via Manali-Sarchu (night stay) at Leh and take rest.(Night-Leh)

      Day 2: 31st July: : Leh – Khardung La – Sumoor – Deskit – Hundar – Nubra Valley. (Night-Nubra)

      Day 3: 1st Aug Nubra valley Return to Leh and local sight seeing + (Thikse Monastery, Leh Palace, Leh Market, Shanti Stupa, etc.(Night-Leh)

      Day 4: 2nd Aug: Leh – Pangong Lake – Leh (Night-Leh)
      Day 5: 3rd Aug: Leh – Tsomoriri- ( Night- Tsomoriri)
      Day 6: 4th Aug: Tsomoriri- Alachi/Ule (Night-Ule orLamayuru)
      Day 7: 5th Aug: Ule to Srinagar ( Night- Sonamarg OR Srinagar)
      Day 8: 6th Aug: Leave Srinagar Airport 1400hrs
      Pls advise & suggest modification in route within time frame.

      • Ikshit, you are trying to cram to many things in this ladakh trip with limited number of days in hand. You leaving Manali on 29th morning?

        • Ikshit shah says:

          yes,29th morning will start from Manali.
          >29th Night Sarchu
          >30th rest day at Leh.
          > 31st drive to nubravalley across khardongla pass and over night stay at deluxe camp at hunder.
          > 01st august visit deskit monastery camel ridding own payment and back to Leh.
          > 2nd after breakfast early morning process to pangong lake and back to Leh evening.
          > 3rd after breakfast drive to tsomorri lake over night stay at camp.
          > 4th back to Leh and visit thiksey monastery, sindhu ghat night Leh.
          >5th Leave for srinagar by road

        • Ikshit , I will suggest couple of changes in here. First that you should avoid night stay at Sarchu as it can cause trouble of AMS. Better stay at Jispa or Keylong and do journey to Leh next day. Second, add one day in there after you reach Leh for acclimatization and rest. You will be reaching Leh on 30th which will not be enough for acclimatization and you will be carrying a lot of risk in it.

  4. Somnath Mahapatra says:

    Hi dheeraj,
    this is somnath from kolkata. Would like to know if it is possible to cover tso moriri from leh while exiting from leh to manali in a day… We would be be taking something like a leh jeep if possible in around 1st week of August… Thanks in advance…

  5. Gaurav Agrawal says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    We were planning to visit Leh Ladakh on 26th July (morning) and returning on 30th Morning. We are confused whether the time is sufficient to cover all the beauties of barren land. Can you please guide me the route if we have to cover both Pangong Tso-Tso Moriri.
    Thanks in Advance.

    • Gaurav, it is too less time to visit Ladakh. Better come back with some more time on hands to really enjoy the beauty of Ladakh. If you flying in and out of Leh, then you should have about 8–10 days of easy comfortable trip to Ladakh covering all three major tourist places in Ladakh.

      • Uday Shanker says:

        Hi Dheeraj,
        I am planning to visit Leh-Ladakh during 31/8 – 6/9 along with my wife. We are in our early 30′s and quite healthy :). we’ll be travelling from Hyderabad-Delhi-Leh by flight and same will be our return trip too. I believe the below itinerary suits our plan:

        Day 1: Arrive at Leh and take rest.
        Day 2: Leh local, Thikse Monastery, Leh Palace, Leh Market, Shanti Stupa, etc.
        Day 3: Leh – Khardung La – Sumoor – Deskit – Hundar – Nubra Valley
        Day 4: Return to Leh and take rest
        Day 5: Leh – Pangong Lake – Leh
        Day 6: Leh – Sangam – Magnetic Hill – Gurudwara

        However, we want to include Tso Moriri and Tso kar too in our itinerary. Please advice.

        • Uday, you do not have sufficient days to include Tso Moriri which need at least 2 days. Also, on day 3 just cover Hunder and Deskit. Day 4 you can cover Sumur and Panamik

      • Gaurav Agrawal says:

        Thanks Dheeraj for the feedback.
        But we have already booked the ticket and can’t postpone in the last minute.

        Keeping in mind the time constraints, which place we should not skip?

        • Gaurav, in that case you can follow something like below:

          26: Reach Leh, Rest and acclimatize
          27: Rest, acclimatize and local sightseeing in Leh
          28: Day trip to Khardung La and if you can stretch then Nubra Valley only if you are feeling good while ascending
          29: Day trip to Pangong Tso

  6. Sanjay Meela says:

    Dheeraj,

    We are planning to go to Tso Moriri from Pangong tso on 16th July. Is the “Pangong Tso Lake to Tso Moriri Lake via Changthang” open at this time? The person at camps of ladakh mentioned that it might not be open but am not able to find clear information from anyone. Any suggestions to whom to talk to?

    • Sanjay, Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route or Pangong Tso to Hanle, the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga or remote Changthang routes are being given by DC office in Leh at ON and OFF basis, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit or issue you on your lucky day. Also, even if the permits are given then as well there is no guarantee that you will be allowed to cross Chusul Post or not because last year several such incidents happened and people with permits also had to return via same route. All this will mean that you will have to risk it for at least a day getting wasted if you are not allowed because there will be no guarantee until you cross Chusul and Tsaga post. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only via Leh.

  7. Moun says:

    is it possible to find shared taxi from manali via tso Morri lake to leh.

    • Moun, it is very hard to find. And above all You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because first the taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help if required will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS.

  8. Is it possible to get to Moriri lake from South. There’s a small road Kibber leading to Thaktote and Lam Tso and Krangdom than continue along lake. We are by bicycle. Is it possible by car? Then perhaps by bicycle too…

    • Cinderellla, to get an idea of all the motorable routes in Ladakh along with distances, you can refer: DoW – Maps of Ladakh | Nubra Valley & Changthang. Keep in mind that, the remote routes are isolated and completely off track with almost no roads. Better stick to traditional routes in case it is the first trip to Ladakh.

      Regarding the road you talking about, that is a trek path that leads from Kibber to Tso Moriri and by car it is not motorable. I have not done the trek so can suggest if at all you can take the bicycle there because there could be some steep climbing involved too.

  9. Teja says:

    HI Dheeraj,

    I am quite confused about the permissions for the following route

    Leh – Chang la – Pangong – Chang la – Karu – Chumathang (2 days) – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Tanglang la – Leh

    Do i need to take any permits for this route…?

    In DOW user community they are saying no permits needed ..

    http://devilonwheels.com/india/post10661.html#p10661

  10. Rivu sarkar says:

    if any road gown towards manali to tso moriri to leh…..?

    • Rivu, there is a direct route from Manali to Tso Moriri and then further to Leh. But, You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because first the taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help if required will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS.

  11. Puneet says:

    Hi,
    I am eager to try out the Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri lake route. We are planning it as below:
    Day 1: Leh to Pangong and overnight stay there.
    Day 2: Head to Tso Moriri and back to Leh.
    How much time does it take from Pangong to Tso Moriri and then from there to Leh? Does the above plan seem fine?

    • Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, itself is 10-11 Hrs. You cannot make it to Leh on the same day as it is 240 KM of mountain roads more from Tso Moriri to Leh. Also, you need permits for this route and even with permits army might not allow you to pass through.

  12. Yatish says:

    Hi Dheeraj, Need your help, I am coming leh from Sringar route, from nubra valley we decided to go pangong tso directly, please suggest me route, KM, and time. and from pangong tso we want to go tso moriri and exit from sarchu. suggest route for that too.. is it open for bikers (Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) also. if we go back to leh, we will loose one day and wont be able to visit tso moriri. If its not possible, either from Pangong tso or tso moriri, which one to go for.

    • Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not need any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from last June & in July/August, most likely the route is washed away. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure.

      Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough. If your driver agrees to travel on this route then take the Wari La route to Pangong Tso. Remember that any help required on both these routes will be HARD to find in miles of distance. If you have couple of vehicles then only take this route otherwise best is to avoid it.

      Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route or Pangong Tso to Hanle, the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga or remote Changthang routes are being given by DC office in Leh at ON and OFF basis, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit or issue you on your lucky day. Also, even if the permits are given then as well there is no guarantee that you will be allowed to cross Chusul Post or not because last year several such incidents happened and people with permits also had to return via same route. All this will mean that you will have to risk it for at least a day getting wasted if you are not allowed because there will be no guarantee until you cross Chusul and Tsaga post. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only via Leh.

  13. Teja says:

    HI Dheeraj,

    YOu said permits are not required for indian tourists in first paragraph, but coming down to travel from pangong to tsomori you should take permit by mentioning the route , Does this permit is required?? What all other permits one should take in
    and around ladakh ??

    Thank you for your contribution on whole ladakh tthings :)

  14. Vishal says:

    What is d condition of road if we were going through manali-sarchu-pang-tso kar-tso moriri…plz tell me d condition of road after pang from where we have to take a right cut…..

  15. poonam says:

    Hi Dheeraj, compliments on this wonderful sharing that you are facilitating .I came on this site by chance. I have a query is how to plan driving from Manali to Leh with stop over at Tsomoriri ++. We are driving up in a Scorpio, 4 of us and have 2 nights – 3 days….Also what would it cost to do an independent trip from Leh to tsomoriri-leh 3-4 nights in our own car vs a taxi tour. Thanks.

    • Poonam, You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because if you are going on your own, you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and it may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended, because any help, if required, will be very hard to find in case you get hit with AMS there and it will take time to descend from there…

      • poonam says:

        Thanks Dheeraj.

        Would you know what would be the cost for a trip by a taxi service from Leh -Tsomoriri, back to Leh for a 2 night out trip?

  16. Saransh Mahajan says:

    Hi Dheeraj, I am planning a road trip on my car from Delhi to Leh and back in 8-9 days, I plan to travel by Srinagar while going and coming back from Manali. Is the number of day sufficient and also what other advice you have for us.

    • These are too less number of days for Ladakh road trip. Make it at least 11-12 days to get at least something of the trip. That too will be kind of hectic only.

  17. Partho says:

    I am not getting accommodation in TsoMoriri camp/resort on 22 july. Nomadic is not an option based on the review. Please suggest some other option.

  18. Swati says:

    This may be a repeated question but can I go from Leh to Tsomoriri and be back to Leh within a day? Leave early morning and reach back late at night on the same day.
    Note: We will be totally acclamatized by then.

    Cheers,
    Swati :)

  19. Sumana says:

    Hi Dheeraj, Thanks a lot for help to get Taxi driver’s name and fair from Manali to Leh

  20. Chetan Doshi says:

    Hello dheeraj
    As I am travelling to Leh this June have discussed the initiary in common initiary page I have planned a night vault at pangong and then wish to go from pangong to tsomorie via chusul-nyoma so is it possible for me to reach tsomorie same day when I leave pangong?

  21. Manna Chowdhury says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Me and my friend gng to leh ladakh in the 2nd week of June, will start from Delhi via Srinagar reach Leh and exit through Manali. We have sorted out the route till Nubra and Pangong.
    And we want to cover Hanle, Tso Moriri and exit through Leh-Manali highway (with a night stop in each places) but we are worried about the road condition as we will pass by it in the last week of June.
    Can you give us some input about the road conditions keeping in mind that its our first trip to Leh-Ladakh region.

    Thanks a lot
    Cheers
    Manna

  22. Pradip Bedajna says:

    I am travelling to Ladhak in early June. The last point of my travel is TSO Moriri lake. I would like to know how I can make my return plan from TSO Moriri to Delhi. Should I have to go to Leh and then catch a flight back to Delhi.

    • Pradip, if you do not have time, then better go back and take the flight to Delhi from Leh. Else, you can do it like below:

      Day 1 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      – Cover Karzok Monastery
      – Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 2 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      – Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      – Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 3 | Pang / Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      – On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      – Overnight at Manali

      Day 4 | Manali – Delhi
      – Return

  23. aditya raj kapoor says:

    hello and thnx for the lovely write-up and advice…am trying to google from Chumathang to Tso moriri..no luck, maybe dirt roads? shall try and do these lakes someday…cheers!!

  24. Vidhya says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    After reading all your advises, this is the plan I have come up with. We are flying to Srinagar and planning to go to Kargil and take a ladhaki driver for taxi from Kargil till our trip to Manali. We are 4 members + one 5 year old kid. Can you please give me approx amount for the taxi alone from Kargil to Manali in the month of September .
    Friday 12-Sep Reach Srinagar
    Saturday 13-Sep Srinagar
    Sun 14-Sep Go to Kargil in private buses. – Overnight at Kargil
    Mon 15-Sep “Kargil to Leh in a ladhaki taxi , Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
    On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
    Overnight at Leh. Continue the same taxi upto Manali from Kargil.”
    Tuesday 16-Sep Leh local sightseeing; inner line permits
    Wednesday 17-Sep Leh- Hunder; overnight stay at Hundar
    Thursday 18-Sep Hunder- Leh
    Friday 19-Sep Leh- Pangong Tso Lake; overnight at Pangong Lake
    Saturday 20-Sep Pangong Tso Lake- Merak – Chusul – Nyoma- Tso Moriri ; Overnight at Tso Moriri lake
    Sunday 21-Sep Tso Moriri – Pang ; Overnight at Pang
    Monday 2 2-Sep Pang- manali – Start from Manali through some night bus to Delhi
    Tuesday 23-Sep Reach Delhi. Rest in Delhi.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Vidhya says:

      Also let me know if the above plan looks good to you.. thank you..

    • Vidhya, I seriously will not suggest that you make a trip to Tso moriri via chusul with family having small child. Any mechanical failure could prove bad decision over there. I will suggest that you make a day trip to Pangong Tso and do Leh – Tso Moriri or skip Tso Moriri al together and make 2 day trip to Pangong Tso.

  25. […] too because as a foreigner he is not allowed beyond Merak village. We had tied up to meet again at Tso Moriri so that we can continue ahead together on Manali – Leh […]

  26. […] visible from the Hora La Pass that comes on the way. It is just 20 KMs from Mahe. So while visiting Tso Moriri you can easily do it in case you are ready to spend some extra time on […]

  27. […] Namashang La Pass: We moved from Chumathang to Tso Moriri and just before Kiagar Tso, we reached Namashang La at an altitude unknown to […]

  28. Pranab Kumar Acharyya says:

    Dear Dheerajji,
    Kindly inform how much is the yearly/monthly subscription of your blog and how to pay the subscription.
    Regards,
    P.k.Achryya

    • Hello Pranab,

      Well, there is no subscription fees at all, it is all free. You can register your email address for free using the “SUBSCRIBE VIA EMAIL” option given on the right hand sidebar. All new articles when published will be delivered to your mail box as is :)

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • However, I will request that if possible for you then better put the saved money to use for Responsible Travel in Himalayas and support our DoW Causes right there in Ladakh when you travel there. Here is the link which provides all the details on the causes we support in DoW Community: DoW – Causes | A Step Towards Responsible Travel

  29. Pranab Kumar Acharyya says:

    Dear Jheeraj Ji,
    As per your suggation, self with 7 heads visitedKalpa,Nako,tabo,Kunjum pass etc.with out any problem.In 2014 we are 7 again planning to visit Ladakh region via Srinagar. Kindly suggest the followings:
    1. Which single car will be most cheap and comfortable for 7 heads for complete journey starts
    from Srinagar,Kargil,leh,Numra vally,pangong lake,Tsomariri,sarchu,Manali and end at Chandigarh station for train for Kolkata?
    2.1st. week of Sept. is O.K.?
    I will follow your suggation regarding Ladakh visit strictly.
    Kindly give your valued comments.
    Regards,
    P.K.Acharyya

    • Hello Pranab,

      Great to know about your Spiti Valley expedition and you r enjoyed it alot.

      1. I will suggest that you take up Winger as none of the small cars will suffice 7 people with luggage and that too on such long journey. It will cost you 35% more than the cost of normal MUV taxi. Also, you cannot have a single vehicle for the complete journey because of Taxi union rules which does not allow taxis outside Ladakh to do sightseeing in Ladakh.

      2. September is a good time to travel to Ladakh when you see the most beautiful colors. IF you can post pone the trip by a week it will help you find the accommodation on the spot as well and save some money too.

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2013-14 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-12% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      For the list of good restaurants in Leh – Ladakh or eateries or food joints where food is enjoyed by many travellers including me, you can check the link here: List of Good Restaurants in Leh – Ladakh | Restaurant Reviews

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  30. DR.VIVEK KESHARI says:

    HI DHEERAJ,
    AFTER READING UR BLOGS, COMMENTS & PICS WE ALL DOCTORS FINALLY BOOKED PACKAGE FOR LADAKH AS FOLLOWS , PLZ READ & ADVISE US THAT ANYTHING WHICH IS NOT INCLUDED IN THAT OR ANYTHING U WANT…….
    WE R 4 COUPLES WITH 2 KIDS (2YRS OF AGE) WITH 2 INNOVA ……

    Travel Date: Reaching Leh 9 June 2014 around 7:30 am.

    09th June 2014 / Day 01: Delhi – LehArrival at Leh airport, to be received by our representative and transferred to the Hotel. Check in to the hotel for a complete day of rest wherein welcome tea and coffee will be served by the Hotel. Post lunch visit Leh Market, Leh Palace and Shanti Stupa. O/N Leh.

    10th June 2014 / Day 02: Leh – Lamayuru – Ule 180 Kms / 6-7 hrsAfter breakfast drive to Lamayuru enroute visit Liker Monastery, Magnetic hill and Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. Check in Resort / Camp at Alchi or Ule and enjoy your hot Lunch. After Lunch drive to visit the mesmerising Moon landscapes and the Lamayuru monastery (one of the oldest Monastery in central Ladakh) O/N Ule.

    11th June 2014 / Day 03: Ule – Leh 72 Kms / 3-4 hrsAfter the Breakfast drive to Leh enroute visit Alchi monastery and Hall of Fame. Arrive at Leh by afternoon. Hot Lunch at Hotel. Evening free time at your leisure. O/N Leh.

    12th June 2014 / Day 04: Leh – Pangong Lake 140 Kms / 4-5 KmsAfter Breakfast leave for Pangong Lake 14,500 ft, through Changla Pass 17,350 ft. (third Highest Motorable road in the world) Arrival at Camp, Hot Lunch will be served aat Camp, Later free time at Leisure and enjoy the color changing lake and the sun set on the banks of lake. O/N On the banksof Pangong Lake.

    13th June 2014 / Day 05: Pangong Lake – Leh 140 Kms / 4-5 KmsEarly morning enjoy the pictuereque view of Sun rise on lake. After Breakfast drive back to Leh. O/N Leh.

    14th June 2014 / Day 06: Leh – Nubra Valley 120 Kms / 4-5 hrsAfter Breakfast drive to Nubra Valley via Khardungla (Highest Motorable road in the World, 18,380 ft) Arrive at Hundur by afternoon. Lunch at Camp, rest of the day one is free to explore Panamik Hot water spring, Deskit, Hunder Villages and camel Safari in Sand Dunes between Deskit and Hunder Village. O/N Nubra Valley.

    15th June 2014 / Day 07: Nubra Valley – Leh 120 Kms / 4-5 hrsAfter Breakfast visit Deskit Monastery, where you can have a magnificient view of Nubra Valley and drive back to Leh by same Route, crossing Khardungla Pass. O/N Leh.

    16th June 2014 / Day 08: Leh to Tsomoriri Lake 240 Kms / 240 Kms / 7-8 hrsMorning after breakfast drive to Tsomoriri lake (14000 ft abov sea level) by passing Chumathang (Hot Spring) along the Indus river. Tsomoriri Arr. 1600 Hrs. Afterwards take a walk around the Lake to enjoy the scenic beauty. O/N Korzok Village.

    17th June 2014 / Day 09: Tsomoriri – Tsokar – Taglangla – Leh 260 Kms / 8-9 hrsMorning after breakfast leave to Leh passing Puga (Sulphur Mine), Tsokar Lake, Taklang La Pass 17,585ft, 2nd Highest motorable road in the world. Arrival at Leh by evening. O/N Leh.

    18th June 2014 / Day 10: Leh – DelhiEarly morning transfer to Leh airport to board flight back to destination. Journey ends with Sweet Memories of Ladakh. Tour End
    Hotel Used Confirmed:

    09th – 10th June 2014 / Leh: Pangong Hotel / Confirmed

    10th – 11th June 2014 / Alchi: Zimskhang Holiday Home / Confirmed

    11th – 12th June 2014 / Leh: Pangong Hotel / Confirmed

    12th – 13th June 2014 / Pangong: Martsemik camp / Confirmed

    13th – 14th June 2014 / Leh: Pangong Hotel / Confirmed

    14th – 15th June 2014 / Nubra: Stendal Hotel / Confirmed

    15th – 16th June 2014 / Leh: Pangong Hotel / Confirmed

    16th – 17th June 2014 /Tsomoriri: Tsomoriri Resort (Cottages) / Confirmed

    17th – 18th June 2014 / Leh: Pangong Hotel / Confirmed

    THANXXXX IN ADVANCE

    DR.VIVEK KESHARI
    SECRETARY
    INDIAN MEDICAL ASSOCIATION

    • Hello Dr. Vivek,

      Itinerary looks fine to me, apart from that the only thing that I would like to change here is that you do Nubra Valley First before Pangong Tso. so, do Nubra Valley tour first then Pangong Tso Lake and finally Tso moriri lake.

      Apart from that, just that take ample of rest on Day 1 and keep the body hydrated. You must already know about it ;)

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  31. Pranab Kumar Acharyya says:

    Dear Dheerajji, Sorry of incomplete information.Self will start my trip from Simla.21.9.-Sarhan,22.9-Chitkul 23/24.9-Kalpa,25.26.9-Kaza 26.9 Kaza to manali.If possible from batal to Chandratal by car.Due by health and knee problem could not walk 36 Km.Kindly advise whether by car(Inova) we can visit Chandratal or not and how.I am in full of energy. Regrds, P.K.Acharyya-09331896835,from Kolka.

    • Pranab ji, roads have not been good so far via Kinnaur and I hope the situation and conditions of the roads might have settled well by now. The above trip is possible and you already have a fair idea of the itinerary. If you want to cover Chandratal then better stay at Losar a day before while move to Manali. This will give you more time at least couple of hours to enjoy at the lake. Road will be open but there is about 2 KMs one side which you will need to trek as road ends 2 KM before. So, it will be 4 KMs of trek but some part of it is quite steep, so in case the problem is of greater magnitude then probably skip Chandratal.

      Do not miss on Komik, Langza villages.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  32. Pranab Kumar Acharyya says:

    Dear Dhirajji,
    Again I am calling you after the gap of 4/5 months. I left the idea to visit Leh this year.you know I got my by-pass sugary 2 years back. I contacted my doctor
    , he has given green signal to visit Leh accaording to you suggation.Due to some other reason , I left this idea for 2013.I am planning to visit Kalpa/Kaza from simla

  33. Saikat Roy says:

    Thanks Dheeraj for sharing the information about Tsomoriri Lake. Just wondering whether Pangong-Tsomoriri via Chusul is accessible in Late September and permits are available for Indians. Also if you can share the tentative range of cost of Car hire for Leh-Pangong/spangmik(night stay)-Chusul-Tsomoriri/Korzok(night stay)-Leh. Thanks,

    • Hi Saikat,

      It depends totally upon the permits thing, you may get or you may not get. This year these permits are on and off only. So, nothing can be said if you will surely get these permits or not. For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2013-14 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-12% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  34. Shravan says:

    Hi Dheeraj

    I saw that most of the package tours exclude Tso moriri. But after reading your post i wouldn’t want to miss this lake. I am traveling with my wife to leh, my wife is concerned about the safety, as many ppl don’t travel to this place. Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Shravan,

      Before going for the packaged tour, just read some valuable tips along with pros and cons of your own customized tours and packaged tours at the article in out community: Package tour or own customised tour for ladakh?

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Shravan says:

        Thank you dheeraj for the immediate reply. I have decided to go for a customized tour of 9days n 8 nights. We would be covering indus zanskar sangam, nubra valley, pangong lake and tso moriri and a couple of monasteries on the way. My wife is apprehensive that if only the 2 of travel in a cab, we might get kidnapped or something bad might happen. That is what I want to know is it safe for a couple to go to tso moriri. many ppl will be there at pangong n nubra as many tour packages offer to take them there. But with tso moriri I am concerned with the safety!!! Thanking you in advance. DoW is an amazing site.

        • Shravan Ladakh is the SAFEST of places I have been to in my life in terms of human crimes. every single soul is so helpful that words can fell short to explain it. You will always be greeted with lovely smiles no matter what people will be ready to help :)

          Still, DoW has started an initiative under DoW – Himalayan Travel Community for finding Travel Partners or Companions, leave your message in Travel Partners section at the link: Ladakh & Zanskar – Travel Partners Section. There is also a DoW Travel Calendar linked here which can be used to easily and quickly spot a travel partner with similar dates of all the people looking for Travel Partners for their trips. May be you meet someone online going over the same dates.

  35. Hrishikesh Chakraborty says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Thanks for sharing valuable information in your forum. I want to back in Leh from Tso Moriri Lake in a Mahindra Xylo cab on 25 Aug 2013. I want to avail Tso Moriri – Karzok – Sumodo – Tso Kar – Tanglang La -Upshi – Leh route. I want to know -
    1. What will be the distance for this route (KM).
    2. Can we avail this route with Mahindra Xylo.
    3. To avail this route may I require any permit.
    4. How much time require to reach Leh through this route from Tso Moriri Lake.

    Thanks.
    Hrishikesh Chakraborty.

    • Hi,

      1. To get an idea of the routes in Ladakh along with distances, you can refer: DoW – Maps of Ladakh | Nubra Valley & Changthang. Keep in mind that, the remote routes are isolated and completely off track with almost no roads. Better stick to traditional routes in case it is the first trip to Ladakh.

      2. Xylo is good enough.
      3. Yes, you will need permits.
      4. It wil take about 8-9 Hrs to reach Tso Moriri from Leh

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Hrishikesh Chakraborty says:

        Thanks Dheeraj.
        Actually I want to avial for both the routes -
        Leh – Upshi – Mahe – Sumodo – Tso Moriri to reach Tso Moriri
        and
        Tso Moriri – Karzok – Tso Kar- Tanglang La – Upshi – Leh to return back to Leh
        Is it be possible then .

        Thanks
        Hrishikesh

        • Yes, Go from Leh to Tso Moriri via Mahe bridge and then come back from Taglang La next day.

        • Hrishikesh Chakraborty says:

          Thanks Dheeraj.

          Is it be possible to make this trip (Leh to Tso Moriri and back to Leh) in a Single day – Starting from Leh in early morning (5:30 am).

          Thanks,
          Hrishikesh

        • VERY VERY tough…. Needs 16+ Hrs for touch and go :) … Better not do it in such a case.

  36. Raju Sharma says:

    Hi Dhiraj

    After going thru’ the internet and writing to tour operators, finally I saw your blog and found it really informative. Inspired by your suggestions on various trips in Ladakh, I have framed a plan for Pangong, Tsomoriri, Nubra Valley to be undertaken during 20th to 30th September, 2013. The plan is as follows:

    22/09/2013: Leh – Pangong Lake 140 Kms.
    After Breakfast leave for Pangong Lake 14,500 ft, on the way visit Stok, Shey Palace, Thiksey Monastery, Hemis. Arrival at Camp(Pangong). O/N On the banks of Pangong Lake.

    23/09/2013: Pangong Lake – Tsomoriri Lake 235 Kms vis Mera, Chusul.
    After Breakfast drive to Tsomoriri by the following route:
    Spangmik (Pangong Tso) – Man (9 KMs) – Merak (12 KMs)– Khaltse (4 KMs) – Chusul (24 KMs) – Tsaga La (33 KMs) – Tsaga Village (20 KMs) – Loma (23 KMs) – Nyoma (22 KMs) – Mahe (25 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Tso Moriri / Korzok (53 KMs) = 235 KMs.
    Arrive at Tsomoriri. O/N Tsomoriri, Korzok Village.

    24/09/2013: Tsomoriri – Tsokar – Taglangla – Leh 260 Kms / 9-10 hrs
    Morning after breakfast leave to Leh passing Puga (Sulphur Mine), Tsokar Lake, Taklang La Pass 17,585ft, 2ndHighest motorable road in the world. Arrival at Leh by evening. O/N Leh.

    27/09/2013: Leh – Nubra Valley 120 Kms / 4-5 hrs
    After Breakfast drive to Nubra Valley via Khardungla (Highest Motorable road in the World, 18,380 ft) Arrive at Hundur by afternoon. Rest of the day explore Deskit, Hunder Villages and camel Safari in Sand Dunes between Deskit and Hunder Village. O/N Nubra Valley.

    28/09/2013: Nubra Valley – Leh 120 Kms / 4-5 hrs
    After Breakfast visit Deskit Monastery to have a magnificient view of Nubra Valley and drive back to Leh by same Route, crossing Khardungla Pass. O/N Leh.

    We are 2 persons i.e. me and my wife. Please give your views on the above plan and specifically on the route to Tsomoriri from Pangong via Merak, Chususl considering that time of the year i.e. September end.
    My night stays at Leh has been already fixed. What will be the cost involvement considering stays and food at Pangong, Tsomoriri, Nubra and travel by exclusive vehicle. Also give your views on type of vehicle to be used.

    Above plan is expected to give more time at Leh as the projected dates for Ladakh Festival is 20th to 26th September, 2013 and we are arriving at Leh on 20/09/2013.

    Pls give your contact details if possible (email, phn no etc.). It will be of great help.

  37. Pratik says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are planning to goto Leh by self driven car (4 adults) this August from New Delhi Via Manali. What should be the best itinerary for this trip. We are planning to cover the most of Ladakh including Tso Moiri.
    Thanks

  38. [...] mountain passes, lakes etc. in entire Ladakh covering Nubra Valley, Sham Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Hanle and other parts of Changthang Valley. Map also has couple of legends that explains the fuel [...]

    • Amit Saharan says:

      Hi Dheeraj,

      Thanks for being there for all the fellow travelers especially for First Timers.
      We are total 4 guys including 2 Bikers and 1 Jipsy(2 guys). We will be carrying our own camps. Now my route and dates are as below.

      1. Is the route and trip timinh and days ok?

      2. I really really want to do Pangong to Morriri directly.

      3. Where should we stay 2 nights in our camp: Pangong or Morriri?

      09-Aug Rohtak Jammu
      10-Aug Jammu Pahelgaon
      11-Aug Pahelgaon Kashmir
      12-Aug Kashmir Kargil
      13-Aug Kargil Leh
      14-Aug Leh Leh
      15-Aug Leh Nubra
      16-Aug Nubra Leh
      17-Aug Leh Pangong Tso
      18-Aug Pangong Tso Tso morriri
      19-Aug Tso Morriri Tso Morriri
      20-Aug Tso Morriri Sarchu
      21-Aug Sarchu Keylong
      22-Aug Keylong Manali
      23-Aug Manali Rohtak

      • Hi Amit,

        It looks really fine :) … how about slight change:

        17-Aug Leh Pangong Tso
        18-Aug Pangong Tso Hanle
        19-Aug Hanle Tso Morriri
        20-Aug Tso Morriri Sarchu

        Regarding Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route, the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul or remote Changthang routes are still not being given by DC office in Leh or perhaps I should say they are on and off, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit or issue you on your lucky day. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

        • Amit says:

          Hi thanks for the reply.

          some questions though.

          1. What is there in hanle?

          2. Can we camp our own camp all the way through including the lakes n nubra valley?

          3. What about nubra to pangong route. Is it doable and do we need permit too?

          4. we want to stay 2 nights at any one lakes. Which one you suggest. For 1 day here, I will kill pahalgam and srinagar sightseeing.

        • Hello Amit,

          1. Please check: Hanle Village | The Hidden Gems of Ladakh

          2. You can pitch your own tents anywhere but I will suggest you pitch them at a place where there are some dhabha tents put up by locals or where other camping guy pitch theirs or somewhere near some house in village or in their garden/lawn. All you will need is to gently ask them (villagers/dhabha guys/camping guys) for permissions. Most likely they will allow, other wise negotiate for small little tip or move on to some other such place nearby. This will give you sense of security too.

          But, keep in mind that camping at the lakes both Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri is not allowed as they are under Ramsar site. Hence, you need to pitch these camps away from the lakes where either other camps are there or at near by village.

          3. Regarding Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso route, in order to take Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village, you need not have any permits. However, with such a small distance it appears tempting to be done BUT just to analyze the difficulty I will strongly suggest that you read:Trip Report | Nubra – Shyok Village – Pangong Tso Route. The report is from June & in July/August, most likely the route will be washed away. So better confirm first, analyze the high risk involved and then only attempt it or better avoid it unless very much sure. Next possible way is to attempt Wari La route, which is also a bit desolated but doable enough.

          4. I will say, go with Tso Moriri.

          Regards
          Dheeraj sharma

  39. Om says:

    Hey bro..
    We got Permits for Chusul..
    And also done with our trip..
    And guess what as you have mentioned and I second…
    Yes its the best route of Entire Ladakh Region.. Hurray!!

    • Rakesh Sachdeva says:

      Excellent. I envy you. We have just returned and were not as lucky. Anyways, there is always a next time.

  40. sanjay says:

    hi,

    excellent info. we are heading to Leh in few days. We have also a foreigner with us. Which route should we take from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri. I learnt from your blog that foreigners have to take an indirect route. can you please state which route that is.
    Thanks in advance.
    -Sanjay

    • sanjay says:

      Hi Dheeraj:
      some more info. We had planned to take Pangong Tso-Upshi-Mahe-Sumdo-Karzok-Tso Moriri-Tso Kar-Debring-Pang-Sarchu route as of now. With a foreigner with us, is this still possible? do we need to change the route? if so, what could it be so that we can still ride together?
      BR
      -Sanjay

    • Sanjay, you have to come back to Leh or Karu from Pangong Tso and then take Leh/Karu – Upshi – Chumathang – Mahe Bridge – Sumdo – Tso Moriri route.

  41. Rakesh Sachdeva says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Compliments again for the good work that you are doing.
    Do you think it is possible to reach Jispa from Tso Moriri via Tso Kar on the same day ?

    • Thanks Dr. Rakesh, Tight it will be but may be possible if you leave early in the morning. Though will not suggest.

      • Rakesh Sachdeva says:

        Thanks for the quick reply. Much appreciated.

        • Rakesh Sachdeva says:

          Just completed Delhi-Jammmu-Srinagar-Leh-Manali-Delhi circuit; alongwith excursions to Nubra, Pangong, & Tso Moriri.
          I will like to add that Tso Moriri to Jispa in 1 day is pretty comfortable. We left Tso Moriri at around 7.30 in the morning & reached Jispa (via Tso Kar) at around 4.30pm
          Thanks a ton for all your support Dheeraj.

        • That is awesome, glad you had a wonderful time over there in Ladakh. If possible, try and share your Himalayan Travel or Photo Tale or experience with us at DoW – Himalayan Travel Community

        • sanjeev rastogi says:

          Rakesh ji
          My planning is similar like you in August last week from DELHI-JAMMU-SRINAGAR-LEH-MANALI-DELHI.Can you provide your mob.no as my family is thinking it is very-2 tiring trip.

        • Rakesh Sachdeva says:

          Sanjeev Rastogi Ji,
          No doubt the trip was long, but the Natural beauty rejuvenated us every time we felt exhausted. Since this road trip is once a life time experience, must do it with family. My cell no. is (0)9899666633. Facebook – Rakesh Sachdeva. Pls feel free to call any time.

  42. Shefali says:

    Hi Dheeraj.
    Just need to ask is there any route which connect Tso moriri to Keylong-leh road. while coming back from Leh I am thinking like Leh-tsomoriri-pang. any possibility?

    • Yes Shefali and this is how people use to do it

      Day 1 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      – Cover Karzok Monastery
      – Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 2 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      – Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      – Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 3 | Pang / Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      – On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      – Overnight at Manali

      Day 4 | Manali – Delhi

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Shefali says:

        Thanks for quick reply Dheeraj.
        How about if we can cover Leh – Pangong Tso – Tso Moriri – and rest as u advised.

  43. Rakesh Sachdeva says:

    There seems to be some error in this article. In your article above under the heading “Itinerary” you have mentioned “Spangmik or Lukung” for stay at Tso Moriri. I think these are the places to stay at Pangong Tso & not Tso Moriri. Please pardon me if I am wrong.

    • Sorry, guess, it ended up being a copy past error. Just corrected it. Yes, you have to stay at Korzok here. I tried to go through it once again as quick read, please let me know in case you feel there is any other error. And again thanks for pointing this one out :)

  44. Souvik says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are the final stage of our Ladakh planning for august. We are still confused about the Tso-moriri to Pangong or viceversa route. Can anyone of be done for sure during this august?

    If not, we have decided to go to Turtuk & give 1 extra day to Nubra valley & make our Nubra valley trip to 2 nights/3 days.

    Can you just confirm us about this doubt we are having, then we’ll be all set up… Thanks dheeraj, waiting for ur reply.

  45. Amit Goyal says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    We are planning to visit leh ladakh this june . We are 14 people ( age 28-30).We have hired 3 innovas and we will be driving ourselves. please check our itinerary.
    Day 1 (8th jun): delhi to jammu
    day 2 : jammu to srinagar/ sonmarg
    day3: srinagar/sonmarg to kargil
    day 4: kargil to leh
    day 5: leh to khardungla/diskit
    day 6: back to leh
    day 7: leh to pangong tse
    day 8 : pangong tse to leh
    day 9 : leh to tso moriri
    day 10 : tso moriri to jispa
    day 11: jispa to manali
    day 12 : manali to delhi

    Now i have few questions to ask :
    1) is it doable in 12 days
    2) do we need to book rooms/camps in advance
    3) can we go tso moriri directly from pangong? how is the direct route (road conditions etc)
    4) where will we find petrol pump if we are coming back from tso moriri to manali
    5)should we stay at jispa or sarcu or keylong
    6) is it hard to get permit for the direct route from pangong tse to tso moriri
    7) can an agent get a permit for us?

    Thanks and regards
    amit

    • Hi Amit,

      1 + 5. Doable, just make it Tso MOriri to Sarchu and then Sarchu to Manali. Rest looks OK to me. Keep in mind there are no buffer days.
      2. Not really if you do not plan to stay at some specific hotel or are ok with searching hotels. I also see you are a big group, so if you want to stay together then better book them in advance else you may end up in scattered locations.
      3. Permits highly likely will not be issued.
      4. You need to carry the fuel with you from Leh or Karu for covering about 550+ KMs
      5. Yes, very hard to get the permits for direct route of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri
      6. Agent can get the permits for you in advance for the above itinerary not for the direct route from Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Amit Goyal says:

        Hi Dheeraj,
        Thanks for your reply. It would very helpful for our trip. One more thing i would like to ask u. One of our friend is coming directly to leh by flight. Can we take him straight to nubra that day only?
        Thanks and regards,
        amit

        • Amit, please do not do that else he might fell severely ill. Best is to let him take couple of days rest and then only take him to Nubra Valley. also, do not plan to take him with you after you come back from Nubra and then to Pangong Tso. He will need some more days to acclimatize to sleep at Pangong Tso.

      • Ludovic says:

        Good evening,
        I plan to doSpangmik (Pangonk Tso) =>Merak => Chusul => Nyoma => Korzok.
        I understood that it would be hard to have a permit.
        But hard doesn’t mean impossible :)
        How can I get a chance to obtain this permit?
        Thank you in advance.
        Kind regards,
        Ludovic

        • Ludovic I believe you are a foreigner. Sorry to say but foreigners are only permitted upto Man – Merak villages and that too this year only. Earlier Spangmik was the point where they can get permits but from this year Man – Merak are also opened for them. So, no chance of getting permit for Chusul

        • Ludovic says:

          Dear Dheeraj,
          Thank you very much for your super fast answer!!!
          Yes I’m a foreigner :(

          I understand that the possible way to go is from Spangmik => Tangtse =>Chemre =>Ubshi =>Tarchitdok =>Chumathang => Korzog.

          Is there any place where we can book an hotel / guesthouse / tent on the itinerary?

          I checked your EXCELLENT website but didn’t find any info on that.

          Thanks a lot for your help :)

        • Ludovic, get in touch with info@offbeatescapes.com and ask for DoW discounts.

        • Ludovic says:

          Will do.
          Thanks for you help ;)

  46. MANOJ MEHTA says:

    I forget to mention that i am accompanied by a child of 10 years.Can you please give me the latest weather update. will it be comfortable at night stay and suggest precaution to be taken

  47. MANOJ MEHTA says:

    I am reaching leh from srinagar on 14 th may 13 and planning to visit tsomoriri on 15th . I am accompanied by my family of two. how is the weather their and it will be harsh or bearable, Is it the right time to visit.

    • Please do not do it!! Your body will not be acclimatized to visit Tso MOriri at that early stage of the trip. Not sure what the plan is and how many days you have.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      PS: Sorry for the delayed response, I was traveling to Spiti Valley for past 10 days.

  48. hardik says:

    do we need permit for tso-moriri. if yes what village name should we write in form for purmit. i want to go to nubra, pangong and tso-moriri so tell me name of village for this all.

  49. [...] 7 (27-09-2013) | Leh / Rumtse / Upshi – Tso Moriri via [...]

  50. Pranab Kumar Acharyya says:

    Dear Mr. Dheeraj, Kindly suggrenst me. I am of 62 years . Got my by-pass in 2011.I want to visit Leh vis Srinagar Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri and Nubra vally and back to Kolkata via Manali. Now i am full of energy. As such no physical problem. Kinldy suggest me , whether I can visit the above area or not.My mobile No. .Kinldy reply or give a miss call from your mobile. I will call you back.
    Thanks,
    P.k.Acharyya

    • Hello Pranab ji,

      Well, I am not sure about the impacts of By Pass surgery with High altitude traveling, I will suggest you to talk to some doctor first before you make a dash. In case of any help for planning the trip I would be always happy to revert back and provide all inputs I have for it. Regarding AMS, you are doing in correct way of ascending from Srinagar side and then exploring the places in Ladakh. You must consider the sequence as Nubra Valley then Pangong Tso and then Tso Moriri. This will help you acclimatize in best shape.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Pranab Kumar Acharyya says:

        Dear Dheeraj ji, This year We want to visit.Simla-Kaza/manali.Also to visit Chandratal lake by car.Is is possible to visit Batal to tal by car?I cannot want updown 36 Km.Iam of 62 years.Kinldy suggest and advise.Regards,P.K.Achryya

  51. Ashwin says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I followed your preferred schedule:

    http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/how-to-calculate-cost-or-budget-for-leh-ladakh-trip/

    This plan is excellent and am working on a similar schedule. I had query about Tso Moriri-Sarchu-Manali route:

    On the way back to Manali from Leh, we don’t want to miss Tso Moriri. We’ll be going to Tso Moriri by a private taxi from Leh which we’ll drop at Sarchu and we will stay at Sarchu. How easily will we get public vehicle to go back from Sarchu to Manali? How is the frequency of such transport? Is it preferable and safe when we’re going with family?

    • Hi Ashwin,

      These are not villages rather just tented colonies for adventure camps. You will not get any public transport there and the private taxi you have to take upto Keylong if not Manali. From Keylong, being head quarter of Lahaul, you will be able to find either Shared taxi to Manali or public HRTC bus as well.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  52. shekhar says:

    Dear Dheeraj
    Can Swift Dzire can make it to Tso Moriri especially last 50 KM.
    Secondly Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Manali Highway can be done in Dzire safely.
    Thanks a Lot.

    • Shekhar, it is a bit difficult brother but does not mean that it cannot make it. With careful and skilled driving you will be able to make it but not to forget that there will be places where you may not have a choice than to sacrifice some scratch in the under belly of the car. I will strongly suggest that you go through and read my series on Ladakh Self Drive tips at the links below:

      7 Useful Tips for a Self Drive to Leh – Ladakh, Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips, Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • shekhar says:

        Dear Dheeraj
        I have gone through your articles & they are really superb.
        How do you compare last 50 KM of Tso Moriri route & Tso Moriri To Manali Highway route with Gramphu-Manali stretch.I have driven Dzire on this route.

        • Hello Shekhar,

          Well, yeah the experience is quite different though a bit similar. The road ahead of Sumdo on either side towards Tso Moriri as well as towards Tso Kar and Manali Leh Highway is almost in very bad shape but manageable when you compare to Gramphu to Manali stretch. That stretch is just horrible, especially 8-10 KMs of either side of Rohtang Pass. In fact, it is the most troublesome point for the past few years on the whole Ladakh journey. It is commendable to read that you did it in dZire :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  53. hardik mehta says:

    if we go direct from tso moriri to manali we will mis tangla pass and suraj tal ? and other thing we miss by this road ? and what about road condition from leh to tso moriri and tso moraiai to manali, >

    • Hardik, You will miss Taglang La but you will not miss Suraj Tal. Nothing else you will miss but you will then see Tso Kar lake too :) … Leh to Tso Moriri, is mostly good apart from last 50 KMs which is more like a dirt track. Tso Moriri to Manali is much like the same dirt track only.

      • madhumeeta says:

        Me and my husband are travelling to Leh in July with the Tour operator and need some help from you.
        My itinerary is as follows :

        Day01 Arrive Leh
        Ladakh. Acclimatize.
        Day02 In Leh Shanti Stupa Sankar Gompa monastery, Leh Pal ace.
        Day03 On t o Nubra Valley
        Day04 On t o Leh : Khardungla Pass 39 kms f rom Leh.
        Day05 I n Leh : Alchi, Sangam – Confluence,Magneti c Hill ,
        Day06 On t o Pangong
        Overnight st ay in Pangong.
        Day07 On t o Leh
        Enrout e visit Hemi s Monastery Stok Pal ace,
        Day08 Depart Leh * Ret urn home wit h happy memories
        Today bid f arewell t o your ‘Ladakh Del i ght’ t our, as you are t ransf erred t o Leh airport f or your onwards journey.

        Now, I have couple of queries :

        1. I want to include the Tso-morir lake in this. Is there any way we can add it?
        2. I am planning to go to Tsomoriri on day 8 instead of boarding flight and then take Tso-moriri Manali or Tso-moriri Srinagar route? Out of these 2 which route is better and how much time it`ll take to reach any of these destinations?
        3. Also, if we are going on our own to Tsomorir, which all permits we will have to get as rest all permits will be taken by tour operator? And how much this Leh-Tso Morir- manali can cost us?
        4. Do you see any problem with this travel/Itinerary?? Also advise how much above tour will cost us?

  54. priyanka says:

    Hi,

    I’m planning a visit to Leh Ladakh next month (March) around 13th. I want to do Tso Moriri and Lake Pangong for sure. I read in one of your early answers that one has to book the guesthouse in
    Chumathang or home stays in Korzok. So how do I organise this? is there a telephone number/mail to contact for such a stay? I live in Bombay.

    Thanks

    • Priyanka, March is way off season and it will be extremely cold. You will not get any accommodation at Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri and both lakes will be frozen!! Are you planning to see both frozen lakes?

      • Priyanka says:

        Actually that’s the only time I have holidays! and i’m accustomed to very cold weather as I have spent a lot of time in European winters. So if both lakes are inaccessible, what would you suggest as a good plan for this time of the year?

        • Priyanka, it is not just about cold rather about High Altitude with such conditions as well. Even people staying ages in alps go for a toss in Ladakh. Nevertheless, locals will also not suggest to stay at these places at that time of the year. I was there in April last week, last year and even a single soul was not present and one of the friends who stayed a previous night in his own camps had to look for some shelter at night and then he pitches the tent inside that shelter and barely able to sleep whole night :) … Lake will be accessible but they will be frozen. Would you want to see them as frozen or with colors for which they are known for?

    • anand says:

      Hi Priyanka,
      Me and my wife visited leh ladakh in 2011 july end. It was summer time there and the tsomoriri lake was not frozen and it was very beautiful. We spent a night in camp near the lake. It was very cold at night.The water was freezing cold.

  55. [...] Since, you can always exit from Tso Moriri lake towards Manali via Tso Kar or Taglang La over Manali – Leh Highway, it gives more flexibility to place it in the itinerary when you travel from Leh towards Manali. For more details on Tso Moriri Lake, check the comprehensive Travel Guide for it at the link here [...]

  56. Anand Tewari says:

    Hi Dheeraj, I am planning to visit Tso moriri, Pangong and Zanskar around 19th Dec 2012. Are these places accessible by Taxi during this time? Also if tens are open in Dec to stay near the lake. My trip is mostly for winter photography. I have been there last year in Summer.

    • Hi Ananad,

      Are you flying to Leh? Roads to Leh are closed and if you fly to Leh then except Zanskar you will be able to visit both PAngong Tso and Tso Moriri as they are accessible all round the year but with least stay options only limited to homestays. Tents will not be present near the lake. At Pangong Tso, you will need to stay at Tangste and make trip in day time there and at Tso Moriri, you might get a homestay option in Korzok or visit the lake and come stay at Chumathang Guest House.

      If it snows heavily then Chang La might close down for a day or two.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • SRINIVAS says:

      NO, ITS NOT POSSIBLE TO GO … DURING SUMMER ONLY IT IS POSSIBLE TO GO OVER THERE AND THERE ARE NO TAXI SERVICE TO GO OVERTHERE.. RENT A BIKE FROM LEH.. OR RENT A CAR FROM LEH.. ANY THING FROM LEH IS BETTER

  57. [...] our journey over Tso Moriri, Hanle, Pangong Tso, Shyok Village, Sumur over next few days we reached Panamik on Day 6. We [...]

  58. Jolin says:

    We are planning to do Leh-Tso Moriri-Kibber-Kaza-Manali in Sep, just wonder if the plan is doable?

    few questions :
    1. How can i get Kibber/Ki/Kaza from Tso Moriri?
    2. Any tent rental in Tso Moriri Area or we need to bring our tent?
    Any advices?

    • Hi Jolin,

      There are some options available at Tso Moriri for tents, so you need not bring your own. For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      Are you planning to trek this route (Tso Moriri to Kibber)or want to travel by road in a taxi?

      Regards
      Dheeraj

    • chand bhatt says:

      Hi Dheeraj ,I have 3 questions: .
      1) Is it possible to stay at Karu or Upshi while going from Pangong to Tso moriri. 2) Which route is better,through Mahe bridge or through Tso Kar?3) Can I go through one and back through another? If I do so, should I mention it while making the permit?
      Regards

      • Chand, which month are you planning this journey?

        • chand bhatt says:

          I am planning to go in the month of April next year

        • Hello Chand,

          In the month of April, chances are Tso Moriri will be frozen and so as Pangong Tso. There is no place to stay at Karu or Upshi, better stay at Chumathang which has a guest house. From Tso Moriri you can directly go to Pangong Tso or you can halt for one night at Hanle and then go to Pangong Tso. It can be done in either direction the way you want to start. If you are going via Pangong Tso then you need to stay at Tangste. Getting permits if difficult for that route but since it is off season you might get them in April. You will need to write Pangong Tso – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Tso Moriri – Hanle.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  59. Anand says:

    Hi,

    Are there any local transport from leh – tso moriri lake? We are planning to come back to leh on the same day. is it possible?

    Regards
    Anand

    • Hi Anand,

      There might be a local transport but that would be like once or twice a week only. And Tso Moriri cannot be done in a single day.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  60. Arunav says:

    Hey Dheeraj,

    This blog goes a ton in helping us pan for ladakh and you are really generous for all the replies.

    I am planning to visit Ladkah in September. I needed your inputs on few things.
    1. is visiting Leh/Ladakh in around sptember 16 too late with the roads to changla and khardungla closed.
    2. I plan to go to Leh and then bargain a taxi for the entire trip. do the taxis agree to do do Nubra to Pangong and Pangong to Tso Moriri
    3. we are a couple, as i understand we can get other fellow travelers easily to share ride with us. Just wondering if anyone would like to share the whole trip with us

    Thks,
    Arunav

    • Hello Arunav,

      1. It should be OK by mid-September and roads within Ladakh are kept open throughout the year barring few days of blockages due to snowfall.
      2. They will agree to do so but you will need permits for these routes which are not being issued as of now and may be in September when off-season starts, the permits would be issued again.
      3. Hmm.. it is tricky one and even it might get difficult to get travelers in lean season for the non-traditional route you are planning to take. Hence, most likely, you might need to follow the traditional routes only to share the taxi cost with others.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Lalit says:

      hey Arunav, me & my wife are reaching leh on 28th August. We are ok sharing car with like minded people. If you are intrested please let me know.

  61. Paddy says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Excellent blog i must add.. a couple of my frens (3 in all) are planning to do the Manali-Leh-Nubra-Pangong-Leh-Alchi-Lamayuru-Kargil-Sonmarg-Srinagar circuit.. Wanted suggestions..

    The dates are between 25th Aug – 5th Sept 2012.

    Day Itinerary

    Day 1 Blore – Chd (by air)

    Day 1 Chd – Manali (by bus)

    Day 2 Reach Manali – Rest ( not interested in Manali coz already covered last time)

    Day 3 Rohtang – Sarchu (By Taxi – Pvt number)

    Day 4 Sarchu – Leh

    Day 5 Leh town (ILP and local sights)

    Day 6 Leh Nubra, Diskit,Hunder

    Day 7 Hunder to Pangong

    Day 8 Pangong to Leh

    Day 9 Leh – Alchi / Lamayuru

    Day 11 Lamayuru – Kargil

    Day 12 Kargil to Srinagar via Sonmarg

    Day 13 Srinagar to Blore (by Air)

    Thanks in advance

    • Hello Paddy,

      The plan looks fine to me and I hope you get the direct route from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso open for you via Shyok Village or DC office start issuing permits for Wari La route. But, most importantly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Paddy says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        We have some additional changes taking place from what we originally thought of..

        Date Day Itinerary
        26-Aug Day 1 Bangalore – Delhi
        27-Aug Day 2 Delhi – Leh – Obtain Permits – aclimatize – evening local market – Shanti Stupa
        28-Aug Day 3 Leh – [Lamayuru - Hangroo Loops] Optional – Alchi – Likir – [Gurdwara Pathar Sahib - Magnetic Hill] Optional – Leh
        29-Aug Day 4 Leh – Shey – Karu – Shakti – Chang La – Durbuk – Tangtse – Lukung – Spangmik (Pangong Tso)
        30-Aug Day 5 [Spangmik - Phobrang - Marsimek La - Spangmik] Optional – lukung – Tangtse – Durbuk – Chang La – Shakti – Karu – Hemis – Shey Palace – Stok Palace Museum – Leh
        31-Aug Day 6 Leh – Phyang – Khardung La – Phyang – Leh – Evening at Leisure
        01-Sep Day 7 Leh – Karu – Upshi – Tanglang La – More Plains – Pang – Lachulung La – Nakee La – Gata Loops – Sarchu
        02-Sep Day 8 Sarchu – Bharatpur – Baralacha La – Darcha – Jispa – Keylong – Tandi – Kokhsar – Rohtang Jot – Manali
        03-Sep Day 9 Manali – Chandigarh
        04-Sep Day 10 Chandigarh – Bangalore

        Had a few questions :

        1) Would you recommend Marsimek La and would we be able to receive permits with ease.. planning on renting a 4*4 scorpio or other from leh. Would the drivers dare to tame the mighty la. ?

        2) We would love to do a manali via tsomoriri (3 days trip).. would you be able to tell me which areas enroute have a STD dialing facility or bsnl postpaid coverage. Its highly critical for us to call the family atleast once a day.. I am aware that once we leave leh.. the next fone lines are available at keylong.

        3) Is it possible to do, khardungla , alchi, likir in one day… this is only if we intend to accomodate the return trip covering tsomoriri.

        Thanks in advance for your help.

        • Hi Paddy,

          1. The drivers might dare to do so but you need to search them a bit. Also, I do not think you have time to attempt Marsimik La and get back to Leh that very day.

          2. I do not think there is anything in between. Phones were not working at Tso Moriri when I was there this spring but upto Chumathang there were signals in BSNL . From Tso Moriri to Darcha/jispa/Keylong I do not think you will be able to find any phone signal. Guess there is one phone at Pang Transit camps, somewhere read, but not sure if the army guys would allow you to call or not. You can cover this one using the Day 6.

          3. I think so, you can do that if you leave early morning and spend OK amount of time at these places, not too much.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Sorry for the delayed reply.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  62. punit says:

    Hi! Our plan is to visit TsoMoriri while riding from Sarchu to Leh, i.e. tent at TsoKar, ride to TosMoriri early morning and then ride ahead to Leh. Will we require a Permit in that case?

    • Hello Puneet,

      You cannot do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because one need permits to visit Tso Moriri and these permits are issued at DC office in Leh. Even if you arrange these permits in advance somehow then taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Punit says:

        Thanks for the input Dheeraj.

        Actually we are riding Bulllets, and plan to ride upto TsoKar, tent there and spend the night. Next day early morning, ride to TsoMoriri from the other side and not Karzok. Few of my friends did it with a Ladakhi's taxi in 2010 and didnt have to cross any post. TsoKar-Punga-'a short cut'-TsoMoriri's Northern tip. We're trying to get permits faxed to use before starting. What do you advice, is it doable? We wont be staying overnight at TsoMoriri.

        • Hi Punit,

          Yes, the checkpost is just before the Korzok village, so in that case you can of course, visit the lake and return back from there but you might be questioned at Mahe bridge if the guy manned at that post catches you. I do not see latter part much of a concern though. What I am not sure is that how you guys will cope up with the acclimatization part at Sarchu and Tso Kar.

          My final advice would certainly be, if anyone of you do not feel alright at Sarchu (in case you are planning to stay overnight there) then PLEASE DO NOT go over and sleep at Tso Kar, it might worsen the situation for the guy who was ill a day before.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Punit says:

          Thank you so much Dheeraj.
          On your suggestion, we are carrying an alternate plan. If we feel any hint of AMS at Sarchu or before TsoKar, we’ll ditch the current plan and visit TsoKar-TsoMoriri later in trip.
          Thanks again bhai, would keep visiting and troubling you before the trip (and ofcourse after it too) :)

        • All the very best for a wonderful trip to Ladakh, Punit :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  63. j.venkatraman says:

    dear dheeraj

    I am 63 and have done the shimla -sangla-nako- tabo-kaza-kunzam pass-manali-delhi two years back in hyundai accent diesel.

    It most exciting and thrilling to drive and admire raw nature.

    I had then decided to do the del-srinagar-leh-manali-del circuit and the time has come now.i am planning to drive in the same car with my wife end august/early september.

    Your 14day itenary for the above

    suits me well.

    I want you laet me know from where i can get a roadmap for ladhak showing all the tourist spots as mentioned in your exhaustive blog.

    I bought a j&k rad mapof (ttk publication)which is insuffienct.

    My son will join me atsrinagar and fly back from leah after the tour.

    I will drive back leh-manaliwith my wife.I need your guidance on the unpredictable nallahs between pang and manali and how bad theyare.Otherwise i dont mind retracing via srinagar though i will still love to do leh-manali.

    My drive from kaza-kunzam-rohtang was a thrilling experience.

    I could not make it to chandratal as an Innova was struck in treacherous nallah 1kmbefore chandratal.I was a bit apprehencive about the infamous Rani Nallah But I manged to cross it.We literally drove on thestoney river bed for quite a distance.Ihad to replace the front suspension of mycar on my return costing me a bomb.

    Hence your best guidance is needed for pang -rohtang.

    regards

    venkatraman

    • Hello Mr. Venkatraman,

      You will definitely face challenges for sure on Manali – Leh Highway and may be somewhat of similar difficulty that you would have faced between Kunzum Pass and Manali plus the famous Malling Nalla (not sure if it was in full glory when you made the trip :)) … Zingzing Bar nallah is the most difficult one and rest are manageable with cautious driving. Better, to cross these Nallas in early morning when water is less in them.

      For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway and Ladakh, I will say:

      You will indeed face few tough challenges on the route. The hatchback/sedan will increase the level of every challenge even further, sedan is the worst candidate. My suggestion will be to go via Srinagar route as it will help you feel comfortable with the driving, provide more acclimatization and then once you have done the local Leh-Ladakh, then come back via Manali side. Secondly, since you are in hatch/sedan, then you need to drive with extra care as well. There will be some sections on the Manali – Leh highway in which you might need to sacrifice some scratches on the underbelly. Just make sure you do not bump the engine sump (know it before where it is placed in your car). You need to protect it all around the trip. Thirdly, whenever in doubt do not rush into the section rather park aside and feel the section with your foot, see how other vehicles are crossing it and make a planned route in your mind to cross that section. At the very least do carry Mseal, quick fix, funnel, jerry cans and towing rope with you all the time.

      Also, I will strongly suggest that you go through and read my series on Ladakh Self Drive tips at the links below:

      7 Useful Tips for a Self Drive to Leh – Ladakh, Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips, Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

      I have emailed you the map for Ladakh.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      PS: Sorry, for the delayed response, was offline for last few days.

  64. Jay says:

    Hi Dheeraj, we are three of us travelling from Mumbai..here is our detailed plan, going to be a long road trip using a private cab:

    Day 1 ; Reach Srinagar from Mumbai, then to Sonmarg

    Day 2 : Sonmarg to Alchi –

    Day 3 : River Rafting and then proceed to Leh –

    Day 4 : Leh to Nubra Valley –

    Day 5 : Nubra Valley to Leh –

    Day 6: Leh to Pangong & Back to Leh

    Day 7 : Leh to Tsomoriri

    Day 8 : Tsomoriri to Sarchu –

    Day 9 : Sarchu to Manali –

    Day 10 : Departure from Manali –

    Planning to travel in Mid- August. Looking at the trip mostly by road, do you think it is too hectic? Any suggestions from your end?

    Regards..

    • Hello Jay,

      Well, firstly do the first two days as: Sonamarg to Lamayuru and then Lamayuru to Leh. Skip the rafting part. It would not anything but might add AMS trouble doing it so early with less acclimatized body and also forcing you to travel more. So, better enjoy the journey. Secondly, in order to move to Nubra Vally on Day 4, you will have to get the permits done in advance through some travel agent or hotel in Leh.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  65. Abhishek says:

    I am planning to go to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso via the Changthang route (Merak – Chusul – Nyoma). You have written that this is one of the most beautiful routes. But I just read in some of your posts that the dc office in leh is not issuing permits for these villages currently. So what route would you suggest. I would love to roughly stick to the same route and bypass the restricted villages.

    Please help me out!

    Regards,

    Abhishek

    • Hi Abhishesk,

      Yes, as of now the permits are not being issued for Changthang route via Chusul. So, from Pangong Tso you have to go back to Leh and then for Tso Moriri you have to go via Chumathang from Leh.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Abhishek says:

        Is this the route you are suggesting?
        Spangmik – Lukung (16 KMs) – Tangtse (34 KMs) – Durbuk (9 KMs) – Chang La (32 KMs) – Sakti (34 KMs) – Karu (10 KMs) – Upshi (13 KMs) – Kumdok (19 KMs) – Kere (53 KMs) – Chumathang (34 KMs) – Mahe (22 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Korzok or Tso Moriri(53 KMs) = 339 KMs
        And which route are you currently taking for getting to Tso Moriri?
        On an unrelated note, can you give me a list of places you would suggest to rent a bike in leh where we could get pulsars, not royal enfields and the bike would not have many problems.

  66. swapnil k says:

    Hello Dhiraj sir!

    Thanks a lot fo r replying to so many queries and helping all. :) just want to know traveling ALONE over bike from leh to pangong, tsomoriri and nubra is safe or not? Also from pangong to nubra is ok with bike or shall I rest at leh

    from where to hire bike for zanskar valley?

    With Thanks &

    Regards

    Swapnil k

    • Hello Swapnil,

      You will not be alone brother on the traditional routes as there are quite a large number of tourists who plly on these roads everyday in season time. Hence, do not worry much about that as you will surely get company or two while riding. Both routes from Pangong Tso to Nubra direct are very isolated few people travel over it including very few locales, so help is hard to find if required. I will suggest you avoid it while traveling alone, rather go back to Leh and start by traditional route only.

      You have to hire the bike from Leh only and return them to Leh if you want to visit Zanskar. It will take three days to reach Padum from Leh as Leh – Kargil, Kargil – Rangdum, Rangdum – Padum. Then, Padum – Kargil and Kargil – Leh. So, you will get about half a day's sightseeing in Padum when you reach or else increase a day more for Zanskar.

      You can rent bikes in Leh and Fort Road in Leh is full of such shops that rent bikes. Depending upon the condition, model, make and tourist rush you can get bikes starting from Rs 600 to Rs 1200.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  67. Laukik says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Opting for the Leh-Tso moriri route via Kumdok-Mahe are there any check-points on the way we need to mention on the permit request or just mention Tso-Moriri?

    • Hi Laukik,

      It is Mahe – Sumdo I guess you are talking about. If yes, then you need to mention only Tso Moriri. You need to submit one permit copy at Mahe before you cross the bridge and then you need to submit the permit copy once you reach Tso Moriri just before the Korzok Village.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  68. Tanu says:

    Hi,

    We are visiting leh on June 28th, the itinerary goes as:

    day 1 – leh, day 2 – leh to alchi/basgo, Day 3 – leh to nubra, day 4 – nubra to pangong, day 5 – pangong to chumathang, day 6 – chumathang to tso moriri, day 7 – tsomoriri to leh, day 8 – flight back home.

    We are two of us and will be travelling in a hired car. Please suggest if this is a good itinerary(hectic or not). How much will a taxi cost us for this whole trip.Can we arrange passes on our own on the day 1, when we reach leh – its a thrusday.

    • Hi Tanu,

      You are traveling too much I will say. I will suggest something like below:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
      – Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
      – Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
      – Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
      – After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
      – If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
      – Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
      – Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.
       
      Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      – For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here:
      – Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
      – Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
      – Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
      – Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
      – Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
      – If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      – Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      – Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      – Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      – Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      – Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 6 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      – Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 7 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
      – Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Fly back

      For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone alwayshelp in bargaining more.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  69. Chandan Gupta says:

    Hi Dheeraj

    Thanks for your reply.

    could you please tell me how much time it approximately takes while going Tso Moriri from Pangong via chusul-loma-Nyoma and not going to hanle in between?

    I am not considering going to hanle as i found stay options are very limited there. (IS this correct?)

    Thanks

    Regards

    Chandan Gupta

    • Hi Chandan,

      Yes stay is very limited at Hanle. Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri will easily take about 12 or more bumpy hours of drive/ride.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  70. Chandan Gupta says:

    Contd from last comment..

    I am interested in this route as you have mentioned that it is (pangong-chusul-Nyoma-Tso Moriri) one of the most beautiful drives of ladakh.

    Thanks and regards

    Chandan Gupta

  71. Chandan Gupta says:

    Hi Dheeraj

    I am following your blog since last few days and its very informative and has been managed in beautiful way.

    I am planning to go ladakh in september and i have sufficient time in hand to follow the 'most common itinerary' mentioned by you. But then i came across this pangong lake to Tso Moriri route via chusul, nyoma which is remote and bit less travelled route as mentioned by you.

    My question is: what do you advice Leh-pangong-chusul-Nyoma-Tso Moriri-Manali or Leh-Pangong-Leh-chumathang-Tso Moriri-Manali?

    Is this route pangong(spangmik)-chusul-Nyoma-Tso Moriri doable in one day?

    Thanks

    Regards

    Chandan Gupta

    • Hi Chandan,

      Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul is doable in a day but will be very long and hectic and you will not enjoy the beauty very much. Better halt that at Hanle and then again continue ahead of Hanle via Chumur to Tso Moriri or come back to Loma and join the road to Tso Moriri again the next day. You will really enjoy the route in this way. At any day, if you are comfortable with long, bumpy rides with exemplary beauty I will suggest this route only.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  72. Ujjwal jain says:

    Hey dheeraj …

    Finally June has arrived and as first timers we are all too excited. As always need your hand to walk along ….

    Although we are planning to do

    Leh nubra via khurdungla

    then next day nubra to pangong Tso via shyok village since I read some where in your blog that the drive is pretty scenic and

    then finally pangong tso to tsomoriri via the direct route. We plan to cover this on day to day basis. Would this get a little too hectic since we are planning this just for the sake of shortage of time and we don't wanna miss the fun of seeing the place.

    However At the same time we are confused if we should be making it comfortable rather then hectic by touching all the places inspite of enjoying the places

    Ur advice would be real icebreaker … Since we will alter out itinerary accordingly …

    Cheers ujjwal

    Regards

    Ujjwal

    • Hi Ujjwal,

      The Shyok route is most scenic but most vulnerable to landslides and dangerous too. The isolation is such that you may not find anyone on the entire route. So, any help required, you guys are on your own. We had to spend about 2 hrs almost to get our car out of the sand where it got stuck. Every time we had to put jack, dig the sand out from below, place stones and then push the car towards road. It took 7 healthy attempts when we were finally on road :) … At few sections stones were falling, I was removing and them from front and driver was driving the vehicle ;)

      Coming back, this will get hectic as I believe. Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri is all dirt track with lots of bumps. Tough and long drive. Better return to Leh from Pangong Tso I will say and keep Tso Moriri and this Changthang route for next trip. Cover Manali – Leh Highway at ease.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.
      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  73. Laukik says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I was planning to take the following route Leh-Pangong Tso-Tso Moriri-Leh(About 650km).

    Had some queries for you.

    If we take this route can you confirm me if we need to mention the below placed in the permit?

    Pangong Tso,Man,Merak,Khaltse,Chusul,Tsaga La,Tsaga Village,Loma,Nyoma,Mahe,Sumdo,Tso Moriri.

    How long would it take to reach Tso Moriri from Pnagaong Tso via Chusul-Loma? about 6-7 hrs

    Thanks in advance

    • Hi Laukik,

      Yes, mention: Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma (for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) and Hanle (if plan to visit Hanle too). It will take I guess about 10+ Hrs to reach Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso. Depends how much break you take.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • hardik mehta says:

        hi dheeraj,
        from pangong tso to tso moriri where can we take brack from night and what is the distance from pangong to that place and from that place to tso moriri and what will be the optain for night stay

        • Hardik, it will be really diffcult that you will get the permits for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri route. For more details on the distance and road conditions, check the article:

  74. Amar Kumar says:

    Hi,

    I am looking forward to this years bike trip to Leh. Attempted it two years back during the same days, got caught at Kaza due to heavy snow fall. Finsihed the Leh visit last year by air. But the high of going by bike ( Teo of us in two bikes) has to be experienced. Hence again a schedule is made. We are from Bangalore and intedn to start the ride from Delhi. Not keen on Nubra, Hunder and Tsomoriri as already covered last year. Would be obliged fro your remarks and reccomendations about the itenary.

    Regards

    Date Day Journey Details Stay Details Distance

    07-06-2012 Book the bike by train – Karnataka Express – Private -

    09-06-2012 Saturday Bangalore – Delhi by Indigo morning flight

    Delhi – Pathankot Pathankot 470

    10-06-2012 Sunday Pathankot – Sonamarg Sonamarg 436

    11-06-2012 Monday Sonamarg Sonamarg 0

    12-06-2012 Tuesday Sonamarg – Leh Leh 373

    13-06-2012 Wednesday Leh spare day Leh 0

    14-06-2012 Thursday Leh – Pangontso – Leh Leh 370

    15-06-201216-06-2012 Friday Leh – Khardungla – Leh – Vehicel service Leh 80

    16-06-2012 Saturday Leh – Srachu Sarchu 250

    17-06-2012 Sunday Sarchu – Kaza Kaza 290

    18-06-2012 Monday kaza – Local – Vehicle service Kaza 50

    19-06-2012 Tuesday kaza – Local Kaza 50

    20-06-2012 Wednesday Kaza – Kalpa Kalpa 200

    21-06-2012 Thursday Kalpa – Chandigarh Chandigarh 326

    22-06-2012 Friday Chandigarh – Delhi – Load the bikes in private – train Delhi 250

    23-06-2012 Saturday Delhi – Bangalore Morning Flight

    • Hi Amar,

      Great to know about yor passion buddy. My 2 cents:

      1. Sonamarg to Leh is very long. do it like Sonamarg – Kargil, Kargil – Leh or Sonamarg – Lamayuru, Lamayuru – Leh
      2. Sarchu – Kaza seems tough too, try to leave early from Sarchu, very early I will say. The terrain after Gramphu is no road and tough ride. It takes lot of time to reach Kaza from Keylong itself, and you adding Sarchu – Keylong as well. I guess you will be better halting at Khoksar and then next day may be start from Khoksar cover Chdnratal on the way and reach either Losar or Kaza same day.
      3. Do not do Kaza local twice. Do Kaza – Pin Valley – Tabo the next day and then Tabo to Kalpaseeing Nako Lake and Geyu Mummy on the way.
      4. For Kalpa – Chandigarh leave a it early in the morning.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  75. Tejinder Brar says:

    Hello Sir,

    Sir we r planning a tour to leh from 10th june onwards. I have a query regarding road conditions from leh to nubra,leh to moriri and leh to pangong. Can u tell the current status of these roads, as we are going on ford figo , i doubt tht it will make some problem (due to low GC) on these routes…!!! Please help

    • Hi Tejinder,

      Well, first you will be reaching Leh by road. Which route are you following? If Manali – Leh, then that is the worry factor rather going to Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. At these places, you will find few issues around passes Chang La and Khardung La but rest roads are manageable and even around passes, with careful driving you can manage it. Secondly, on the way to Tso Moriri, roads are excellent except after Sumdo/Kiagar Tso from where there are no roads rather dirt track for about 40 odd KMs at all.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Tejinder Brar says:

        Sir,

        first of all thanks for the reply. We are two people and going by manali to leh. As u suggested with careful driving we can manage, tht means i have to be very careful while going through the passes.One more thing i come to know from some local people from manali tht SDM office has not started giving permits !!!! Is this true…and any idea about official opening of manali-leh route ??

        • Hi Tejinder,

          Yes, passes as well as water crossings and section of landslides. Yes, this is true untill and unless road is opened officially, they will not provide permits to anyone. Best bet is to take risk by 3-4 AM when other taxis leave and try to plead and convince the guy at checkpost.

          No idea as of now, but I read somewhere they are planning for the coming week if weather stays good.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  76. Meeth Maharana says:

    Thank you for putting up the encyclopedia for leh travel. Only after reading your blogs have i made up my mind to travel to tso moriri from pangong tso.

    We are planning to take manali – leh highway for the onwards journey and for the return we are taking pangong tso to tso moriri with a stay in either or both the lakes. I had some questions to which I hope you would provide some answers:

    1. pangong tso – tso moriri : do able with bike?

    2. one cannot travel to tso moriri without inner line permit? and do we need permit from manali to cross rohtang pass?? (no sneaking out possible? :P)

    3. the route that has to be taken from leh – pangong tso – tso moriri – Manali. quite confused with so many articles on float. AS far i can see, there are two routes possible one through chusul-Nyoma and other through Changla-Chumathang. Where does Hanle lie? I mean which route?

    Which of the two routes is preferable to ride through bike?

    I just booked my tickets for visiting ladakh from 28th may to 24th june. And I would be going in for the first time. I would love for you to suggest me places to visit that often are missed in a regular itenary. I plan to go to Chandratal as well, but since I'll be traveling alone for 15 days : I am not sure how safe it is. Though I am not suckers for safety :D

    • Hi Meeth,

      1. Doable but back breaking.
      2. You need permits for Tso Moriri lake. Also, if you are on bikes then you do not need permit for Manali – Rohtang Pass road.
      3. Pangong tso to Tso Moriri ride is back breaking ride. Once you reach Loma while coming from Pangong Tso, if you go straight you go towards Nyoma – Mahe – Tso Moriri but in such a case you have to reach Tso Moriri because there is nothing between to sleep or eat. Now, from Loma if you take left then you reach Hanle which is about 50 KMs from Loma. There you will find accommodation and one of the greatest and scenic drives of your life.

      Now, you can either come back to Loma and then move towards Nyoma and Mahe for Tso Moriri or you can continue from Hanle towards Chumnur via Salasal La and Charchaghan La to reach Tso Moriri from the other side of the lake. Again out of the world beauty on this route.

      Hanle – Chumur one is tough or rough ride and Hanle – Loma – Nyoma is just crusing on fresh tarmac :)

      BTW, there are actually 3 routes and extra 2 in the making, so in all 5 ;) …Two of them goes via Hanle :)

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Meeth Maharana says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks for the insight. But how does one decide : tough and scenic vs safe and not-so-scenic? That's quit a conundrum.

        Couple of points for clarification :

        1.When you say back breaking do you mean you will regret it or the spectacle will overcompensate for it? :P

        2.how do you join Manali-Leh highway ? the point of approach should be closer to Manali. We actually intend to make it to Manali from Tso moriri.

        3. Will Xylo/Sumo can make it across the Charchagan La?

        I promise this is the last time I ask a question ;).

        Thanks again, Meeth

        • Hi Meeth,

          If I were you, I will go with Hanle – Chumur route to see how Tso Moriri looks from both sides.

          1. You will not regret it and if you are adventurous you will just love it thoroughly :D .. Not sure being biker how you are planning for any mechanical failure or so in such rough and isolated terrain.
          2. Tso Moriri – Sumdo – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts here) – Pang – Sarchu. You need to carry fuel for about 900 KMs to do this circuit, not sure how you gonna do it one bikes.
          3. Yes, it can make it through and I hope you are going with an experienced driver. There is just one tricky water crossing near Charchagan La.

          You can ask any number of questions any number of times ;)

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  77. adventurenorth says:

    Thanks dheeraj! I am talking about :

    Spangmik (Pangong Tso) – Man (9 KMs) – Merak (12 KMs)– Khaltse (4 KMs) – Chusul (24 KMs) – Tsaga La (33 KMs) – Tsaga Village (20 KMs) – Loma (23 KMs) – Nyoma (22 KMs) – Mahe (25 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Tso Moriri / Korzok (53 KMs) = 235 KMs.

    Other route option available is : Spangmik (Pangong Tso) – Man (9 KMs) – Merak (12 KMs)– Khaltse (4 KMs) – Chusul (24 KMs) – Tsaga La (33 KMs) – Tsaga Village (20 KMs) – Loma (23 KMs) – Rongho- hanle- (46 KMS)-SALSAL LA (62KMS)-CHARCHAGAN LA (23KMS)-THRU KARZOK TO TSOMORIRI (60 KMS)

    What about if I include visit to Kyun Tso too?

    • First one can be done without too much hassle… For the second one, there is a little tricky water crossing near Charchagan La if I remember correctly, which if needed to be crossed (as there is one route that diverts it too) will pose some issue for Innova.

      Kyun Tso is near to Salasal La only and you can include a visit to it as well if you like :)

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  78. adventurenorth says:

    Do you think innova will be able to do this trip? please suggest as i'll be hit highway in first week of june.

    • Hi AN,

      Yes, Innova will be able to cover Leh – Tso Moriri route, assuming you are talking about this route only. Although, it can do other routes in Ladakh as well but with little care at least in water crossings.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  79. Partha says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Do you recommend going directly from Pangong to Tsomoriri, or is it better to break them into 2 separate roundtrip journeys from Leh? How long does it take to reach Tsomoriri from Pangong?

    Thanks and Regards,

    Partha

    • Hi Partha,

      It is better that you halt at Hanle in between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. First you will be able to break the tiring long journey and second you will get the chance to see beautiful Hanle drive as well ;) … You need to take permits of whole Changthang if you plan to take that route and of courseif you going by bike then you need to carry spare fuel as well. So, either make two separate trips to Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso OR do it with night halt at Hanle. The time taken to drive between Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri will be easily about 12-14 Hrs with least break. But, since majority of the road is all Kuccha/dirt track, it will be tiring too day too.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • G.Shivasankar says:

        Hi Deeraj,

        We are planning the route as below

        Leh to Nubra

        Nubra to Pangong tso

        Pangong tso – Tso Morir (halt in Hanle)

        Tso Morir – Shortest avaialbe route to Manali leh high way. Please advice where we join in Highway with Distance,is it after Sarchu or Before, We wish to drive down to Manali Further.

        Also need your kind advice, Petrol we can fillup in Leh, then where we can expect Petrol Bunk Next (is it Tandi). How much fuel we should carry as Extra. We all Drive Bullet Electra UCE – 4 People 4 Bikes.

        Kindly also advice on tentative time required through Bike.

  80. SHREE KUMAR says:

    Please suggest whether it is advisable to cover pangong lake to tso moriri lake via chushul bypassing loma and nyoma as there exists direct route

    • SHREE KUMAR says:

      Hi Sh Dheeraj

      Hope u had very nice trip and post your latest comments on the trip.would like to know after visit to pangong lake whether v can proceed and stay at chushul and next day proceed to tso morriri lake and from morriri lake how much v can cover maximum towards manali and where v should stay

      please advise

      • Hi Shree,

        It is better that you halt at Hanle in between Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. You will find homestays at Hanle only. Chusul is a big town on the way but may not be the ideal place to split the journey in between Pangong Tso and Hanle. Hanle itself is too beautiful to be missed.
        You have to carry spare fuel for this drive you wish to undertake. If you start early from Tso Moriri then you can reach Sarchu on Manli – Leh Highway vis Tso Kar lake with some daylight to spare.

        But, since majority of the road is all Kuccha/dirt track from Pangong Tso to Tsaga Village and then from little ahead of Sumdo to Korzok Village and Sumdo to Tso Kar to Moore Plains, is tiring a bit.

        I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

        Regards,
        Dheeraj Sharma

        PS -> Sorry for the delayed reply. I was traveling Ladakh for past two weeks :)

  81. bhavana says:

    Will be in Ladakh hopefully this august. I so hope I will be able to make it to this beautiful place. Thanks for the post!

    • Wish you all the luck Bhavna, any info. you need in planning the trip to Ladakh, feel free to leave a comment and I will share all possible knowledge I have for the same.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  82. [...] be exploring the remote Changthang region of Ladakh including the ever beautiful Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri lakes. There are lots of to-dos in terms of collecting various kind of information and the list is [...]

 
 

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