Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh

 

Leh – Ladakh journey (especially by road) is quite an experience in anybody’s life who loves to travel and I feel one must visit Leh – Ladakh at least once in his / her lifetime. The mesmerizing beauty offered by mother nature in this region is simply jaw dropping and takes your soul away within minutes. Although, it has been quite a time since return from my Ladakh journey, I feel only my body has managed to arrive back and soul still explores that breathtaking vistas in my dreams. Surely, there is no other place like Ladakh in the world !!!

Being on the International borders, one need Inner Line permits to visit various inner line areas of the Ladakh region. The DC office is located in Leh town which issues the inner line permits to tourists visiting the different regions of Ladakh district and once you have the permits you can then move on with the further exploration of this cold desert. Given below are some facts or information you may like to know about inner line permits for Leh – Ladakh…

Update: May 2014

No Permits Required in Ladakh for Indian Tourists / Nationals
  • In the recent circular published by DM in Leh, it has been stated that Indian Nationals or Indian Tourists DO NOT need any inner line permits in Leh – Ladakh region any more starting from 1st May 2014 in order to visit the restricted places: “Dah, Hanu Villages, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Tso Moriri, Nyoma, Loma Bend, Khardung La, Nubra Valley (up to Panamik), Turtuk, Tyakshi, Digger La, Tangyar (for trekking only)
  • As an Indian Tourist or Indian Nationals, now you can just present your valid Photo ID Nationality Proof (Driving License, Indian Passport, Aadhar Card, PAN Card, etc..) at the ITBP/Army check-posts, when and where asked from you and that will just acts as permit for you :) :)
  • Please note that being an Indian or domestic tourist, you STILL NEED to apply for Inner Line Permits in order to visit places like: Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, beyond Loma bend, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors.

Detailed info. on this news and updates along with official circular, can be found at the link: No Permits Required for Indian Tourists in Ladakh

Information for Leh – Ladakh Inner Line Permits

  • Inner line permits are required to visit places like Nubra Valley, Khardung La, Pangong Tso Lake, Tso Moirri Lake, Dah – Hanu Villages,Hanle, Chusul, Tsaga, beyond Loma bend, Chumur, Marsimik La, Batalik sectors.
  • No permits are required to visit the local places near Leh town or Leh local sightseeing, places on Srinagar Leh Highway, places on Manali – Leh Highway, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Dah Hanu, Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Wari La, Turtuk for Indian Tourists
  • Inner line permits are issued from DC office in Leh town and you need to fill the application form to get the approval for your permits.
  • Timing of the Leh DC office are 10.00 AM to 5.00 PM (as told to us by clerk there but not confirmed as we didn’t saw it in written) but they generally do not accept applications after 3 PM I guess, so go there before 2 PM. Leh DC office is closed on Sundays and other national Holidays, hence plan the journey accordingly such that your exploration day does not start with Sunday. Having said that, I have heard that DC office is sometimes open on Sunday for half day as well but I will say don’t count on it.
  • If somehow you gets late and plan to reach/visit Leh DC office late afternoon (like after 1 PM), don’t do so because its is highly unlikely that you will get it that day. Rather try to catch some travel agent or talk to your Hotel staff to get you the required permits. They will very likely arrange these permits for you. Always try to reach the Leh DC office by 10 AM to experience a hassle free process for getting permits.
  • The permits costs you Rs 20 per day per person. There is a fees of Rs 10 which is charged per tourist one time towards Red Cross Fund. Update 2012: There is special fee for students, guess one time Rs 20 only and you need to show/attach the i-card I think with the permit copy. Also, as a part of environment fee, a you might at charged Rs. 200 per person (one time) starting from 2012. (Thanks “A Jeet” below in comments, for providing updates)
  • You need to have photocopies of valid nationality proof’s Photo-IDs (Passport, Driving License, Voters ID, PAN card etc.) which proves your identity. Although the photocopies were not checked for attestation for us but I feel one should not take any chance with it and get them attested before venturing to Ladakh.
  • You may apply the permits for your entire group but you need to attach an attested photocopy of photo-id cards (nationality proof) for each member in the group and make sure to fill the required details of all group members in the permit application form.
  • Anyone who has yours or your group’s photocopies of valid nationality proof’s Photo-IDs, he / she can get these permits for you as well. Usually, the hotels in the Leh town does provide this facility if you are OK with sharing the photocopies of your nationality proof’s Photo-IDs with them either via email or fax.
  • The permit approval process may take 0.5-3 hours and hence its always nice that you reach early morning at the Leh DC office. Sometimes, when there is a rush of tourists, the permits are issued in two batches viz. morning and evening. Hence, try to be in for early morning batch so that you have some time to partially head towards one of the destinations of your plan or do it at ease and consider Leh local sightseeing as side option for the day.
  • The application forms required to apply for the inner line permits are mostly available at the Photostat shops near by (one is just behind Leh office). You can also download the inner line permit application form for Leh – Ladakh from the following download link as well: Leh - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Application Form. Usually, the form remains same so filling the attached form at home and completing the documentation including required photo copies can save a lot of trouble running to-fro from Photostat shops.
  • In the application form, for each member you need to mention the name with parent/guardian name, complete permanent address, name of all the places you need to visit and the specific dates or date range for which you want these permits. At the last in copy information section, you may mention the hotel name plus address, you stayed or are staying in Leh.
  • For your reference, you can also download the sample completely filled application form which was approved for us from the following download link: Leh - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Sample Application Form
  • You need to list all major villages / towns en-route your journey in Ladakh district. Writing Nubra Valley will cover the Panamik, Sumur, Diskit, Hunder etc as after North Pullu there is no check post for Nubra Valley but if you need to visit Turtuk then you should explicitly mention Turtuk even if clerk/(or any travel agent) at the office says not to do so. There were many people who were sent back due to the same error following the clerk’s or travel agent’s advice. So, mention Turtuk explicitly if you want to visit that place.
  • Besides permit application form, you need to write a request application letter addressing DC of Leh – Ladakh district for the approval of your permits. In the application, you need to express your interest to visit the places you wish to travel along with the dates you would be visiting these places on your Leh – Ladakh trip. Make sure you write all the places that you have mentioned in application form. Both application form and this request letter should be in SYNC with each other for places and dates. For your reference you can download the sample request application from the following download link: Leh - Ladakh ILP Sample Request Application LetterUpdate 2013: The download link has been updated with template application letter where you just need to fill in the required details in pre-formatted template available at above link for download which eases out the job.
  • Once, you are done filling the application form and writing the request application to accompany it, you make two – three photocopies of the entire set consisting Application Form, Approval Request Application Letter, Photo – IDs of all the members requesting for the permits.
  • Once, the photocopies of the required set of documents are ready then you need to submit them at the DC office along with the original copies of the form and request application. The clerk will ask you to deposit the fees for required permits (amount will depend on number of days and number of member in the group) + red cross fund fees (Rs 10 per member) + Environment Fess (Rs 200 per member).
  • Once the fees is deposited, clerk may either ask you to get the signed approval from ADC room yourself if rush is low or he/she will place your documents in the ongoing batch for further approval. Of course, in latter case you will need to wait for the approved permits to arrive which usually takes sometime about 1-3 Hrs.
  • Once, you get the stamped approved permits you need to again rush back towards Photostat shop to make photocopies of the approved permits. These photocopies of the approved permits are submitted at every check post that comes up on the way to your sightseeing destinations in Ladakh region. Hence, you should make at least 10 copies of them if you are staying longer enough in this heaven.
  • Validity of the inner line permits are 3 weeks for Indians and 1 week for foreigners. However, there is no limit on the number of times you enter a place in the valid period provided you have the permits with you for that place.
  • Although not required but you may carry the passport size photographs as well. In fact I believe, on all your trips you should carry the passport sized photographs with you as none knows when you need one.

Permits for Hanle and Changthang or Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri

If you are interested in Changthang including Hanle area or going to Tso Moriri from Pangong Tso then consider that it is always better that you get the permits for Changthang yourself not through any travel agent or hotel member. The hotel or travel agents fool the tourist about these places and if they do not write any one of the checkpost you will be sent back.

Permits for inner Changthang are issued only to Indian Nationals not for foreign tourists.

ILP for Hanle & this route is issued subject to the present political or border situation but they are in any case issued by Leh DC only and in most cases the Hanle permit is issued if you go yourself in person.

In order to get the permits for Hanle and Changthang or to go to Tso Moriri via Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma route from Pangong Tso you need to mention all places enroute so that you are not sent back from any post. These places are: Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma (for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) and Hanle (if plan to visit Hanle too)

I will suggest that do not believe on what travel agents say because many of them don’t even know about the places of Changthang Valley and they fool tourists rather travelers interested in that part of Ladakh by giving some baseless statements. It is always better to get the inner line permits for Changthang including Hanle yourself.

Update: 2013: Even after getting the permits of this route, don’t consider 100% that you will be allowed to travel as army guys sent back many tourists since 2011 even having permits based on the actual present situation there. So, unless you pass Chusul or Loma from other side there is no guarantee that you will traverse that route.

Also, photography equipment are not allowed beyond Loma towards Hanle. So, in case you have cameras then please pack them in bags and refrain yourself from taking pictures en-route of sensitive areas.

Best or Quick Approach to get Leh – Ladakh Inner Line Permits

Best way to approach processing of Leh – Ladakh Inner Line Permits is to first download the application form from the link in the article. Completely fill the form and attach the photo copies of the photo ID nationality proofs with it for all members in the group. Write a request application letter addressing Leh – Ladakh DC showing your intent to visit the desired places and request the issuing of inner line permits to you for the desired duration. If you are in group you can write the names of all the members on the group and attach copies of their photo id nationality proofs. Staple the bundle including completely filled inner line permit application form, request application letter you will write for approval and the photo copies of photo id nationality proofs from home only.

Then, once you reach Leh go to Leh DC office and submit the bundle along with the required fees. Get the permit signed from the ADC office if asked or wait for your turn to get them processed in batch and you are done. On the way back to hotel or sightseeing ahead, get 8-10 photocopies of the permits issued to you. You need to submit these photo copies of the permits at the check posts while going to Nubra, Pangong and Tso Moriri etc. This will save a lot of time for you up in Leh as there you will need to keep running up and down to photo copy shop for one thing or the other. Even to get the inner line permit form, you will need to go to nearest Photocopy shop and all this will surely kill time over there.

I am sure this would save a lot of time and fatigue for you. Although highly unlikely, the worst case scenario would be that DC office changes the attached format of the inner line permit application form and refuse to take up the old version of it. :cry: Even in that case, you will just need to fill the new form and attach the documents with it before submission.

Update: 2013: Process has been slightly changed. Now you need not visit the ADC/DC office in permit. You can get the stamped permit in that room on the left side only after paying the required fees itself unless there is some special case in which you can request directly to ADC/DC after seeking permissions.

Conclusion

In the end, I hope the above article provides you some helpful information and I look forward for your thoughts or inputs or suggestions the inner line permits of Leh – Ladakh. Please leave your comments below if you have further questions / queries, I will try to be back with an answer as soon as possible.

Again at the end, to download the application form for Leh – Ladakh inner line permit you can click the following download link : Leh - Ladakh Inner Line Permit Application Form

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555 Comments

  1. Manoj says:

    Thanks a lot for this post. Really appreciate your efforts in putting such a wide range and exhaustive information for the benefits of tourists like his. Me and my wife are planning for Leh-Ladakh complete tour by road on our 500 CC bullet for about 10-15 days(leaving from Delhi), in September last week through the October first week. Will it be good time to visit the place w.r.t. weather and road conditions. Any any other advice to us.

    • Manoj, September is a very good time to visit Ladakh but most of the hotels starts to close by end of it and cold on Manali – Leh Highway and Lakes in Ladakh gets nippier. So, go prepared. Also, you will have limited options of stay too late in September, so will advice if possible try to wrap the trip in September only.

  2. biju t says:

    hi dheeraj,
    kudos for so putting together so much information.
    a doubt about the pangong tso to tso moriri route. is it possible to travel to man-merak-chushul and to mahe directly via mirpal tso (route indicated in google map, of course army permitting) instead of the tsaga-loma-nyoma mahe route.
    thanks in advance,
    biju.

    • Biju, both these routes first needs permit and then your luck if army will allow you to pass through or not from Chusul checkpost which in general they deny. Then the Mirpal Tso route if quite risky affair so instead choose the Tsaga La route if you get the permits and allowed by the army to cross Chusul. Else you need to come back the same route again.

  3. priyanka says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Following is our schedule for ladakh, need some help from you for permit:

    26th July – DAY 1
    Arrive at srinagar
    Stay – Srinagar

    27th July – DAY 2
    Route: Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass or Kargil
    Stay- drass/kargil

    28th July – DAY 3
    Route: drass – kargil – Lamayuru
    Stay – Lamayuru

    29th July – DAY 4
    Route: Lamayuru – leh (Alchi & Sham valley)
    Stay – Leh

    30th July – DAY 5
    Leh site seeing
    Stay – Leh

    31st July – DAY 6
    Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder – turkut
    Stay – Turtuk

    1st August – DAY 7
    Turtuk – Hunder – Diskit – Sumur – Panamik
    Stay – Diskit

    2nd August – Day 8
    Hunder – Diskit – – Sumur – Khardung La – leh
    Stay – Leh

    3rd August – Day 9
    Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
    Stay – Pangong

    4th August – Day 10
    Pangong Tso Lake – tsomoriri
    Remote Route Changthang (Merak – Chusul – Nyoma)
    Stay – Tsomoriri

    5th August – Day 11
    Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Sarchu/Jispa
    Stay – Sarchu/Jispa

    6th August – Day 12
    Sarchu/Jispa – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
    Stay – Manali

    I do not have to take Inner line permits for any of the places mentioned above except for Tso moriri via changthang so the places to be included in the permit are :
    Spangmik (Pangong Tso) – Man (9 KMs) – Merak (12 KMs)– Khaltse (4 KMs) – Chusul (24 KMs) – Tsaga La (33 KMs) – Tsaga Village (20 KMs) – Loma (23 KMs) – Nyoma (22 KMs) – Mahe (25 KMs) – Sumdo (10 KMs) – Tso Moriri / Korzok (53 KMs) = 235 KMs
    do this route come under Changthang region? Hanle is not on this route?
    What about ILP for tso kar?
    we have booked tempo traveller, is the permit needed for the vehicle aslo, should I mention it in the form?

    Have I missed anything?

    • Hi Priyanka,

      Instead of Lamayuru, stay at Alchi if you want to break the journey between Srinagar – Leh in 3 days. Secondly, don’t go to Panamik from Turtuk rather stay at Deskit or Hunder. Cover Sumur – Panamik as you return to Leh from Deskit – Hunder. You should avoid the direct route to Pangong Tso to Tso Morrii via Chusul because first it needs permits, second even if the permits are there then as well Army can send you back. Mostly they do so. Hence, better save one day either by skipping Turtuk or doing Srinagar – Leh in 2 days. Use that saved day in doing Tso Moriri from Leh by first going back to Leh from Pangong Tso.

      You do not need any permit for Tso Kar lake.

      In case you still wish to cover this route which can jeopardize the chances of visitng Tso Moriri in case army sends you back from Chusul, then yes, you need to mention these places on the ILP form. Hanle is 50 KM diversion from Loma.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • priyanka says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thank you very much for guiding me.
        I have kept 2 days spare at the end in manali, incase we need a day we can use that one if the army sends us back
        Is it safe to go to Tso Moriri by the remote route? The only problem is at the check post, right?

        Regards,
        Priyanka

        • Priyanka, not sure what you mean by safe here. As far as road is concerned there are no gorges there, flat grounds with dirt track type of roads and bumps in between. Apart from that major risk is since no one travel there rather very very less people travel that remote route, so any help if required will not be available around there.

      • neeraj Singh shekhawat says:

        Hi dheeraj! I am planning for a leh ladakh trip on 03.09.2014. As we have discussed and finalised this trip today itself, I will need some of your expert advice. Weare planning to leave on 02.09.14 from Mumbai by car and planning to reach srinagar on p4.09.2014. Beyind that I need your advice. We plan to reach Delhi on 11.09.2014.

  4. Marion says:

    Hey Dheeraj,
    I’m planning a trip to Ladakh for the first two weeks of this october. I’m planning on visiting Leh and surroundings and Tso Moriri as well as Pangong Tso. I want to reach Leh by plane and maybe leave via the route to manali and visiting the lakes on the way. Do you think it is possible at this time of the year? Should I plan all in advance or can I be spontaneous (book once there accordingly to weather) without exploding my budget? Will I be abble to find some none luxury accommodation near the lakes? And do I need to fill the applications as a non Indian tourist in 2014?

  5. Ashish Jain says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Firt thanx for giving such good informations & help everybody.
    We are visting shreenagar to leh & our programme is reaching srinagar at 3 pm on 27 June.
    Hire a car 7 leave for Baltal.
    on 28 June we go for Amarnath Darshan by pittu 7 try to come bake by night. Night Stay in sonmarg.
    On 29th early morning leave for LEH.
    And our return ticket from srinagar ia on 05 July 2014 at 2 pm.
    Pls suggest us in between programme.
    Also help us in hire A car (A/c or Non A/c (for 6 persons)from srinagar to srinagar with a driver who show us the leh properly.
    Thanx

  6. amit parui says:

    hi Dheeraj ! how r u ? give me 5 days itineray plan for leh ladak, i want to travelling by road from baltal/sonmarg, after darshan of baba amarnath. i have return railway ticket from jammu tawai, pls give me urs advice, thanks

    • 5 days travel to Leh? Mode of Transport? It will take 2 days to reach Leh from Sonamarg usually. 2 days to come back and one day further to Jammu. So, that completes the 5 days brother.

  7. Chetan Bhardwaj says:

    HI Dheeraj, We are planing to Leh Ladakh in mid of June(i.e Next month). Just want to confirm if Hired vehicles(Bikes on rent from Delhi) are allowed to be taken to places like Hunder/Sumur/Khandurg La/Tso morri/Pangong..I have heard that to few places only your own vehicles(On riders name)are allowed from Leh.Else we need to hire it from Leh itself. Would be great if you can provide some clarity on the sameThanks. Cheers!!

    • Hi Chetan,

      Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh except Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes which can be done while going to Manali from Leh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

      To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

      Since, this is the first time rule is getting implemented no one is sure what will happen or what will not. I personally feel larger groups will be targetted more than smaller groups or individuals.

      For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh, you can check the DoW Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

      Sorry I was on trip to Chansal Pass – Pabbar Valley to celebrate DoW Community’s first B’day and hence could not reply earlier ;)

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Moheet says:

        Hi we would be in Leh with bikes from Manali in July end. I am just curious if we can take the bikes and our back up vehicle (tourist vehicle) to Khardungla which is just about 40kms from leh. please advise. Also if you could let me know can we do Leh-Pangong and back in 2 days i.e 1 to go to Pangong and 2nd to return to Leh

        • Bikes rented outside Leh are not allowed for sightseeing inside Ladakh except Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes which can be done while going to Manali from Leh. Private bikes are completely allowed. You can use the outside rented bike to reach Leh but then for going to Pangong Tso, nubra Valley, etc.. you need to hire rented bikes from Leh only.

          To know more about this rule and present situation, please refer the link: Bikes Rented Outside Leh Banned in Ladakh

          Since, this is the first time rule is getting implemented no one is sure what will happen or what will not. I personally feel larger groups will be targetted more than smaller groups or individuals.

          For renting bikes in Leh – Ladakh along with current Bike Union Prices, you can check the DoW Community thread: Leh – Ladakh Bike Rental Rates 2014 – 15 & Reliable Shops

          Else you can take the bikes and if backup vehicle is private number, no issues then. Also, 2 day pangong tso trip can be done.

  8. amit parui says:

    hi ! dheeraj on 4 july 2014 my 2 friends got permission for ammarnath yatra,1 more friend got permission on 5 july2014, i personaly got permission on 6 july 2014. so we alltogether allow for ammarnath yatra on 4 july ? pls give me urs advice.

  9. Shrusti says:

    We plan to follow following route:
    Tso Moriri – Tso Kyagar – Sumdo -Puga Hotsprings – Tso Kar – Debring – Taglang La – Rumste – Upshi – Karu – Leh

    Do I need ILP to visit Tso kar and other places on this route?

    • Shrusti, Inner Line Permits are not required in Ladakh for any of the tourist places and traditional routes to them anymore. Tso Kar anyways never required a permit. So, short answer is “No permits are required”

  10. Mahesh says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Very useful and informative article.Thumbs up to you…

    I will reach ladakh around 8.30 morning saturday on May 24, 2014. There is a “copy for information & necessary action” field. Since i would be directly going to DC office to get the permit and plan to book the hotel after getting permit, therefore may i leave that blank since i wont be having info regarding hotel stay at that time??? Is it compulsory or optional???

    regards

    Mahesh

  11. Shaheen says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    Do we need to self attest the copies of the photo id proof or a formal attestation is required?

    Thanks in advance, Shaheen.

  12. Abhijit says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Me and my friends are planning to go to Leh this June. Unfortunately we had to cut short our plan by a day, hence have to make changes. Initially our plan was:
    Leh-Nubra
    Nubra-leh
    Leh-Pangong
    Pangong-leh
    Leh-tso moriri
    Tso moriri-leh
    Since we had to cut short by one day, I was thinking to take the route directly from Pangong to Tso Moriri so that we can compensate for the lost day and still cover all. So I wanted to know whether the DC is issuing the inner line permits for Pangong to Tso Moriri via Chushul this year. If not, what are the routes that can be taken from Nubra Valley to Pangong instead of coming back to Leh? We really want to cover all so considering all options. Could you please guide us on this?

    • Abhijit, permit will be issued or not will totally be based upon the situations during your visit. Even if the permit is issued, there is no guarantee that you will be able to pass through as it depends if army will allow you to cross Chusul or not. This might screw up your Tso Moriri plan. Best you can do is that you make a day trip to Pangong Tso. Second best I will suggest that you leave from Hunder or Diskit in Nubra and take the Wari La route to reach Pangong Tso lake the same day instead of coming back to Leh from Nubra. The only issue with Wari La is that it is a desolated route and only few people take it. Hence, in case of any emergency you will be on your own with help in far distance.

      • Abhijit says:

        Thanks a lot Dheeraj! Seems like the Pangong-Tso Moriri route is a risk considering our time limit. Otherwise it looked like a beautiful route(maybe best left for a longer trip). I guess we’ll have to consider the other two options. Thanks again!

  13. Rajiv Rai says:

    Dheeraj Bhai
    Kaise hai aap
    Again this year planning for Ladakh Once again
    any new places you have found kindly notify
    Sectors will be covered will are
    suru-Zanskar
    Nubra
    Pangong- tso mori – tso kar
    hanle

    • Sir ekdum baidya… we had this discussion last night !! I will suggest to add Kyon Tso Lakes. I did that last year and that route is fabulous from Hanle to Jyon Ts 1 and Kyon Tso 2 then to Thitzarbo La and further into Nidar – Nyoma route.

  14. Rakesh Adroja says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Wonderful articles and really nice website with great help to traveller.
    We are group of 16 and will start from manali in july. we all decided to stay in personal tent in SARCHU and PANGONG LAKE. I heard that people are not permitted to any one with private tent in sarchu. Can you please suggest some idea regading private tent.

    Thanks,
    Rakesh

    • Hello Rakesh,

      I doubt if that is true. There is no such restriction. Locals to create ruckus sometimes but it is freeland and do not come under any wetland reserve when compared to Pangong Tso Lake or Tso Moriri or Chandratal. Hence, at Sarchu it is fine to pitch the camps. If someone creates issues, try to calm him down with little tip, if required at all. Also, regarding camping at Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri, you are not allowed at the banks but can pitch on the lands of locals which is away from the shores. Ask homestays and tip them to use their land. They will help you with food and safety measures too.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  15. Giang says:

    Do you have the : Leh – Ladakh Inner Line Permit Application Form for international travellers ? ANd also it will be great to have application letter form for international travellers as well.

    Thank you

    • Giang, it has not been put up here because all foreigners have to go through registered travel agent only to get the Inner Line Permits in Ladakh. So, even if I arrange it and make it available, you will not be able to post it unless there are at least two of you and someone registered travel agent applies for it.

      • Giang says:

        Hi Dheeraj
        Thanks for your reply, is it possible to have a travel agent just apply for the permit and then we ( a group of 3 ) do the rest by our own , like just hire a taxi and do homestay instead of going with tour ?

        Regards

        • Yes, yes, completely possible for you. No worries. You can also check with your taxi driver if he can get the process done for you. You do not need to take any other service from them. Just apply the permits through the agent and rest can be managed on your own.

  16. Anup Gangras says:

    Hello Dheeraj,

    We the four people (2 Family ) planning to visit Leh in the mid of June or July. We are planning to come from Nagpur to Delhi to Manali to Leh.
    Please guide us about taxi hire charges from Manali to Leh as well as where we can stay during the journey?

    Thanks in advance..

  17. Ankita says:

    HI Is it possible for you to help me with an affordable and a trustworthy guest house and a guide please

  18. Reginold says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    i am planning to go by bike from delhi to leh. how many days it will take to reach leh? can we reach there by 3 days drive??? ..plz help me

  19. Kumar says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    I will be in leh by tomorrow. Could you please help me with routes and places which I can visit in next one week. Also please suggest me the routes need to be mentioned in ILP form.
    Thanks!!
    Kumar

    • Kumar, you should rest for couple of days in Leh. Then based on your health conditions, make a 2 day visit to Nubra Valley and a day visit to Pangong Tso. In between visit Sham Valley and region around Leh.

      • Pankaj says:

        Hi Dheeraj

        I am travelling with my family (2+2) to leh from 6th apr to 11 apr. could u provide itinery? I am considering stay at panorama & one overnight at numra valley> pls. suggest>

        • Pankaj, only 5 days? Check something like below:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
          — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
          — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
          — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
          — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
          — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
          — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
          — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.
           
          Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
          — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
          — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
          — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
          — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
          — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing. To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
          — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
          — Overnight at Leh
           
          Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh
          — Do not plan to stay overnight at Pangong Tso as you will not be acclimatized and may fall sick. So, make a day trip only.
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR Sham Valley tour OR Fly back home
          — Overnight at Leh
          — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
          — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib

        • pankaj says:

          HI Dheeraj,

          I am going with th esuggested itinery.

          pls. let me know what stuff, medicines, clothes etc. I need to carry?

        • Pankaj, Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

  20. Poonam Tanwani says:

    Hi Dheeraj, can i have your contact number. We are travelling in June 2014. Shanti Guest house is charging 1200/per day for double bed room. is it worth paying ? Also want to know how much do local cabs charge for local sight seeing/day for full day from 9am to evening 8pm. also, do i need to book the cabs in advance or can book as we reach there. if advance booking needs to be done, can i get the contact number of local travel agent or cab person

  21. ripan chy says:

    Hi, I’m Ripan from Bangladesh.
    I’d like to know which points/spots are restricted for non-Indians so that we can plan accordingly.
    besides that, can you add any more point for we Bangladeshis for visiting these region?
    Thanks in advance

  22. Supreed says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Thanks a lot for providing such an informative blog. I am planning to travel from Mumbai-Srinagar-Leh-Manali-Delhi-Mumbai sometime in June 2014. I want to explore both Srinagar-Leh and Leh-Manali routes. I am travelling with my son of 7 years old. Guess he can cope up and the time i had chosen is ok. I can spent upto 14 days. Pls suggest an iterinery for me. I had visited Srinagar twice so not interested in Srinagar.
    regards
    Supreed

    • Hello Supreed,

      Good that you have chosen to go via Srinagar. Going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Supreed says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks a lot for your prompt response. Really appreciate you in this regard, spending your valuable in helping others. Thanks a lot once again.

        I got few more queries…

        1) Is it OK to take my 7 year old son in this trip.(He had travelled with me to Kashmir , North East etc before)

        2) I am planning the trip some time in June. Is it OK?

        3) Are taxis available at Kargil , as you mentioned I can take Ladakh registered vehicle from Kargil and visit few places on the way. Or Ladakh registered vehicles available at Srinagar.

        4) How much do the taxi charge from Leh to Manali?

        regards

        Supreed

        • Hello Supreed,

          Thanks dear !!

          1. It is fine to take the children of such age group because AMS do not matter with respect to age. It can happen to anyone of any age. The issue with children is that they tend to exert the body considering it the same kind of place they belong to and this elevates the chances of getting struck with AMS. Secondly, they are not much expressive about their uneasy feelings, so it is parents who need to watch out and take care that the child is not suffering from uneasy feelings, headache or nausea and is behaving properly. With 5+ year child, I think he/she would be able to convey the uneasiness with little efforts. If you notice any such feeling or he/she tells you about such a feeling then please do not ascend anywhere, either descend to lower altitude or stay at the same place to watch things overnight and if symptom increase then start descending immediately. Same is applicable for any adult as well. And yes, do keep the body adequately hydrated!!

          2. Yes, June is pretty much fine. Please do check: Best Time to Travel Ladakh & Zanskar Valley

          3. Yes, it is very much feasible that you get the Ladakh taxi in Srinagar itself. Get in touch with the drivers recommended in the DoW Community at the link: List of Taxi Drivers for Ladakh – Srinagar – Leh – Manali

          4. For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2013-14 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-12% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

          Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Supreed says:

          Dear Deeraj,
          Thanks again…I am just preparing my iterinery, and its like opening the pandora box of doubts, so decided to trouble you with few more questions :-)
          1) Is it OK to travel from Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake stay there. The next day go to Tso Moriri stay there and the next day travel to Manali.
          My Iternery is as given below pls comment.

          Day -1 Saturday 6.00 AM Mumbai 11 AM Srinagar

          Day -1 Saturday 1 PM Srinagar 4 PM Sonmarg (Stay)

          Day -2 Sunday 7.00 AM Sonmarg 3 PM Kargil (Stay)

          Day -3 Monday 7.00 AM Kargil 3 PM Alchi (Stay)
          Day -4 Tuesday 7.00 AM Alchi 11 AM Leh (Stay)
          Day -5 Wednesday 7.00 AM Local/ Permit etc 3 PM Leh (Stay)
          Day -6 Local Leh (Stay)
          Day -7 Friday 7.00 AM Leh 1 PM Nubra Valley (Stay-Diksit)
          Day -8 7 AM Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake (Stay)
          Day -10 7.00 AM Pangong Lake 5 PM Tso Moriri (Stay)
          Day -11 7.00 AM Tso Moriri Manali (Stay- Sarchu)
          Day -12 7.00 AM Sarchu 5 PM Manali (Stay- Sarchu)
          Day -13 7.00 AM Manali 5 PM Delhi (Stay- Sarchu)
          Day -14 Delhi Mumbai

          I had put three days local in Leh, Is it too much since I am already planning to stay at Alchi for a day?

          People are talking of Zanskar valley. Is it worth visiting and is it possible to include that in these given number of days?

          Thank you
          regards
          Supreed

        • Hello Supreed,

          You can follow the below itinerary to keep it more relaxed as well as enjoy to the core rather running around the places.

          Day -1 Saturday 6.00 AM Mumbai 11 AM Srinagar
          Day -1 Saturday 1 PM Srinagar 4 PM Sonamarg (Stay)
          Day -2 Sonamarg – Kargil
          Day -3 Kargil – Leh
          Day -4 Leh Local + Permits & Rest for the day to acclimatize
          Day -5 Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley
          Day -6 Nubra Valley – Leh
          Day -7 Leh – Chang La – Pangong Tso
          Day -8 Pangong Tso – Leh
          Day -10 Leh – Tso Moriri
          Day -11 Tso Moriri – Sarchu
          Day -12 Sarchu – Manali
          Day -13 Manali – Delhi
          Day -14 Delhi Mumbai

          I will suggest you that you leave out Zanskar Valley, I know it is quite beautiful BUT need at least 4-5 days to make an enjoyable journey.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Supreed says:

          Dear Dheeraj,

          Thanks a lot…I will follow the same.

          regards
          Supreed

        • Great best wishes, feel free to ask any other queries you have :)

  23. Vikram says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Firstly, thanks for all this information. This website has been very helpful. We are planning to head to Ladakh this Wednesday. We are planning on going to Nubra and then back to Leh. Then to Pangong Tso and from Pangong to Tso Moriri and then to Pang. You mentioned that for Pangong to Tso Moriri, we’ll need to mention: (Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma). Could you please let me know what towns / places we’ll need to mention for Nubra and to Pangong Tso? And also, are there any towns that we need to mention for Tso Moriri to Pang? Thanks a ton!

    -Vikram

  24. Ritu says:

    Hi Dhiraj,
    I chanced upon this page and many thanks to you for writing it! While we will reach the office late, at least now we will have all the required docs and forms with us!

    • Thanks a lot Ritu!! just removed that line you suggested so and also updated the comment from you, so that all is cleaned up in this matter :) … Thanks for bringing up to my notice. VERY VALID point :)

  25. Prashant says:

    Hello Dhiraj,
    Your blog was extremely useful for my recent trip to Leh and nearby places. Specially this article of getting permits. Thanks for attaching the form and sample letter. All were really helpful. Thanks a lot for everything.

  26. Prashant says:

    Hello Dhiraj,
    Your blog was extremely useful for our recent trip to Leh and nearby places. Specially this one of getting of permits. The documents attached helped me get the permits quickly and saved a lot of our time there. Thanks a lot for everything!!

    • Thanks Prashant for posting the feedback and glad to know that DoW proved useful for your Ladakh trip. If possible, try and share your Himalayan experience with us at DoW – Himalayan Travel Community as Photo Tale or Travel Tale Or your reviews of the property where you stayed or dhabhas/restaurants you ate food on your trip…

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  27. Prashant says:

    Hello Dheeraj,

    Your blog was extremely helpful for our recent trip to Leh. The procedure and the documents attached for the permit were all helpful.And they saved a lot of our valuable time there. Thanks a lot for everythig.

  28. arun says:

    thnx for the info, actually we are planning to reach there by 1st or 2nd week of sep2013 via manali on bikes, is that ideal time to go there????

  29. arun says:

    hey dheeraj,thnx for sharing info and want to know that we r planning a trip to heaven(ladakh) via manali on bikes in 1st or 2nd week of sep 2013, is that the time acc to u ideal for the trip?

  30. Chinglen says:

    Guys,

    Go up directly to the DC office for the ILP. I got a 12 days permit instead of the regular 7. One of the man on the counter said for Indian they ca give you 2 weeks.

  31. Swaraj Singh says:

    Dear Dheeraj Ji,

    Thanks a ton friend……….

    your information is very very useful.

    thanks a lot again

  32. Sudipta says:

    Hi,
    Thanks for you valuable information Dheeraj regarding ILP for Leh.
    I have 2 questions about our trip which we have planned from 18th to 23rd October,2013.
    Q1. Is it possible to travel in a 14 seater Traveller to Pangong and other places , our group consits of 13 adults and 2 children?
    Q2.Is there any problem if we visit Ladakh and Manali from there in the last week of October as it is end of the season..?

    • Hi Sudipta,

      Please find my replies below:

      1. Yes, quite possible to travel traditional routes. But, 14 not sure but doubt if possible in Tempo Traveller, may they are 16 seater. Else you need to carry 1 taxi with you.
      2. Please avoid Manali – Leh Highway at that time of the year. STRONG NO for it.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Sudipta says:

        Thanks Dheeraj,
        Is ther any other route to reach Manali ? If , yes what is that ? Pls provide some detail on that.

        Pls find the tour plan below and need ur advice please;
        18/10/13- Jammu to Leh by Flight. 10.00am. Sight seing and permission for Pangong & Tso Moriri etc.
        19/10/13- Lah to Pangong 245km then stay at Korjok.
        20/10/13- korjok to Tso Moriri then night stay at Keylong.
        21/10/13- Keylong to Rothang then night stay at Manali.
        22/10/13 – Manali Sight seing.
        23/10/13 – Manali to Amritsar and night halt at Golden Temple.
        24/10/13 – Amritsar to Wagha.
        25/10/13 – Borading train for Kolkata.

        • This is not happening friend!! The above itinerary is a killer and will land you up in a big mess. Please read more about Ladakh to make it a worth trip. You have just 8 day, you can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh by Air followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 8 days: Leh – Ladakh | Most Common Itinerary by Air.

  33. mehul says:

    hello ,
    your blog is really very helpful. i am going to leh on a bike and most probably i will follow the same itinerary as u mentioned. i want to ask is it necessary to carry the original documents of the bike, i am leaving fro rajasthan,
    plzz reply asap

  34. Chinglen says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I am traveling with my tent and stuff toward Ladakh, been camping across North East India. Just want to know if there are any issues pitching Private camps across Ladakh. You know they chase away private campers in Goa and Kannyakumari :) hope its different in Ladakh.

    Thanks,
    Chinglen

    • Chinglen, You can pitch your own tents anywhere but I will suggest you pitch them at a place where there are some dhabha tents put up by locals or where other camping guy pitch theirs or somewhere near some house in village or in their garden/lawn. All you will need is to gently ask them (villagers/dhabha guys/camping guys) for permissions. Most likely they will allow, other wise negotiate for small little tip or move on to some other such place nearby. This will give you sense of security too.

      • Chinglen says:

        Thanks for clearing this up for me and the sound advice. Being local friendly is the best thing. Got some nice experience in Nongriat Village in Cherrapunjee, they have a guest house run by the village and didn’t allow campers to pitch tent. I paid off 100 bucks to use and washroom for 2 days and order lunch n diner from the GH. Suddenly the whole village came to see my tent and they all became friends. Believe it will be the same in Ladakh. Good to know that Ladakh authorities are not against private camping. Thanks again Dheeraj!

        • Best wishes for the trip!! Yes, you will love the stay in Ladakh and among Ladakhis … If possible, try and share your Himalayan experience with us at DoW – Himalayan Travel Community as Photo Tale or Travel Tale Or your reviews of the property where you stayed or dhabhas/restaurants you ate food on your trip…

        • Chinglen says:

          Ladakh turn out another awesome one and anther paradise for Campers. Camp in Pangong and Tso Moriri with no issue at all. Very few campers and real paradise who love the solitude. espc. Tso moriri

        • Thanks for sharing your experience with us. How about sharing some pictures as Photo Tale or may be detailed experience in DoW – Himalayan Travel Community

        • DocQ says:

          how was experience camping in ladakh, i am traveling in from 14th – 23rd Sept. Please share some trips for 1st time campers, will it be safe.

        • You can pitch your own tents anywhere but I will suggest you pitch them at a place where there are some dhabha tents put up by locals or where other camping guy pitch theirs or somewhere near some house in village or in their garden/lawn. All you will need is to gently ask them (villagers/dhabha guys/camping guys) for permissions. Most likely they will allow, other wise negotiate for small little tip or move on to some other such place nearby. This will give you sense of security too.
          But, keep in mind that camping at the lakes both Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri is not allowed as they are under Ramsar site. Hence, you need to pitch these camps away from the lakes where either other camps are there or at near by village.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  35. Ashwin says:

    Hello Dheeraj,

    Greetings! This is going to be long comment :-) !

    We had a fantastic trip to Leh-Ladakh in last 2 weeks of June and many many thanks to you! All the information on your blog was so helpful in planning entire trip for us. Without your information, it would have been a lot more difficult. Rather, your blog proved such a wonderful tour guide that such a tough trip also seemed very easy.

    I must say that all the pointers and even small tips given by you are very much precise. You have mentioned to go by Kargil road than Manali road, else there could be difficulties due to sudden change in height. That was true, yet we chose that route because on Kargil route, there could be political and safety issues. You had told not to stay at Sarchu or Pang at any cost, but rather stay at Keylong. This information was so valuable that in Leh we met few people who had stayed at Sarchu and had faced lot of trouble like headache, dizziness etc. Also, on the way to Khardung-La we met people who had been to Pangong lake first and they also faced some oxygen problem. They shouldn’t have done Pangong immediately after arriving at Leh. You had suggested rightly to keep it in the end so that we acclimatize well to that height. Your tips had helped us a lot.

    We started our journey to Leh from Manali. We went to taxi stand to look for Qualis or similar vehicle and to enquire about rates. There we met a person named “Kana” who gave all details and said he would charge Rs 20000 for Qualis. We had reached Manali very late in the night and we were discussing with him at about 11 pm. So, we didn’t have much time and choice to bargain. We settled at 20K. But I must mention that the driver [Kanha] was very very nice. He was very descent, excellent and safe in driving, and honest. So, we decided to book him for our return journey too. For return, he said he would charge 15 K since he was Manali driver. We agreed. We paid him 2000 in advance, no receipt, no record. But somehow we felt that he was trustworthy. And as expected, he reached Leh one day before, when our phones were not working in Leh, he came to the hotel, told Hotel manager to inform us that he had reached in Leh and would call us in the evening at the hotel. He did so. He proved his commitment. Also, when we returned Manali, we and he both forgot about advance payment we had given and we paid him full amount. When I remembered about this, I called him back on the same day. He told us not to worry and he would come and return the money. He did so! I must say that we rarely find this kind of trust, politeness in big cities like Mumbai-Delhi. So, I think you can add his number to the list of good drivers: Kanha, 91-94594-07400, 91-98166-28588. We also asked him to arrange for 1 day Manali sight-seeing we did in our buffer day.

    While going to Leh from Manali, Kana had told us to leave from Manali as early as possible- 3 am! We were very tired due to continuous journey, so we agreed for 4 am. This was so that we go ahead of Rohtang pass (as you had mentioned, leave Rohtang as early as possible) and avoid traffic jam! We were also fortunate to have left early because we came to know that on that same day, later on there was heavy snowfall and landslide in Rohtang pass and people were rescued with helicopters leaving behind their vehicles! The road was also blocked. On that same day, there had been unfortunate cloudburst in Uttarakhand, so it had some impact here as well. It rained whole night in Keylong. The other day while leaving only, Kana was suspicious whether road would be open at Baralacha-La. And so it happened. Due to thick cloud cover, there had been a heavy snowfall of 5+ feet height and road was totally blocked. We also heard that there were many vehicles trapped on the way because there was a snowfall on both sides of the road.

    We stayed one more day in Keylong and left the next day. Ah, what a scene it was when we were going to Leh from Keylong!!! Simply road to heaven!!! Fortunately there was complete sunshine on the next day. All the mountains were covered with thick blanket of snow and road was just cleared by cutting snow so that one vehicle could pass properly. On both sides of road, there were huge 3+ feet walls of snow. Kana also told that he had never seen snow in June on that road before for a long time! He also could not resist himself from taking snaps and videos all around! It was just awesome!! But soon we found that there was a traffic jam at the Baralacha-La top. And on the top there it took about 1.5 hours to cross the pass. Some members of our group actually felt uneasiness due to less oxygen over there. Even our driver felt so and I too. I felt it for about 1-2 minutes only, but it was really terrifying. I was praying to cross that pass as soon as possible and come to lower height. There was nothing on the top except for snow. No trees. We had camphor and inhaler with us which helped at that time. But once we reached Leh, we bought couple of oxygen cylinders. So, I would suggest that you add in your blog to have one or two oxygen cylinders which may be helpful on the way in case of emergency.

    We stayed at Shanti guest house in Leh. It is quite descent, Dorje family is very good and offers great hospitality. Our sightseeing at Leh and other areas was as per plan except that at Lamayuru, we could not stay because we lost one day during travel to Leh, so did that in one day. In Nubra valley, we stayed at Goba guest house in Hunder which was booked by Mr Dorje. It was very nice and descent and cost us only Rs 1300/- per double room including dinner and breakfast. Here is the contact number of Goba guest house: Landline: 01980-221083, 01980-200021; mobile: 09469534590. We stayed in a home-stay just near Pangong lakeside and had a wonderful lake-view. They charged very less – only Rs 200/- per person. It was amazing stay there as well. None of us had any oxygen problem or AMS later on, probably because we did acclimatize well.

    I won’t add about places we visited because that you have already covered nicely in your blog. About Pangong lake, I can say that the view is just mesmerizing in the noon between 12-5pm. All the magic of colors is because of sunshine. So, after sunset, water looks normal and also early in the morning after sunrise, it didn’t show those magical colors which we saw in the afternoon. Still, stay at Pangong is definitely worth and a memorable experience. So, I would suggest that reach Pangong early at around 12 pm, stay there and while returning, leave very early in the morning and then visit places en-route such as Thiksey, Hemis etc. I also appeal all to keep that area very clean. We saw plastic bottles and bags thrown in the water and some people throwing stones at those beautiful birds near the lake and arguing with us when told not to do so. I just pity them.

    Again, hats off to the Indian Army. It’s only because of them the roads are maintained so nicely and also snow gets cleared almost instantaneously and we are not blocked much. Also, hats off to them for protecting the country by staying at such heights all over the year.

    Regarding phone connectivity, I took BSNL postpaid card as only BSNL postpaid works over there. But that card didn’t have roaming enabled! So, it was useless. But I think that won’t be an issue there. Usually drivers have mobile phones, so we can use them in case of emergency. At the hotel, Mr. Dorje used to give his mobile on which my relatives would call on giving a missed call to them. So we didn’t have any problem because of no mobile-connectivity in Leh.

    Special note about BSNL postpaid for all: I think BSNL is still in the stone-age! One has to specifically give another application to enable roaming and STD. Even worse, in my case I called them and the call center guy told me that those services were activated for me! But in fact, it didn’t work at all. The worse was yet to come. When I went to BSNL office to close the card, they told me to pay the bill first. They charged me Rs 294 for a period of less than one month when my plan was just Rs 99 giving different reasons such as activation charges, advance bill etc. When I paid that, in the end that lady told me that your initial deposit of Rs 500 will be refunded sometime after 2-3 months (she didn’t even bother to tell me exact time!) plus interim bill might be deducted! How mean and pathetic!! In all I’m not having much hopes for Rs 500 as well, so I would say, BSNL has looted Rs 800 from me when I didn’t make a single call! So, I would suggest to think twice before taking such a crappy service. If you can manage it from someone who is already using it, fine, else there is no need of a mobile phone in Leh-Ladakh. Even though it’s remote area, people there are very very helpful and nice. So, I think one can easily go without a mobile phone there.

    That said, once again thanks to you! Without your help, we could not have such a well-planned and most memorable trip of lifetime. I wish you continue to maintain your blog so that more and more people will be benefited out of it and have a wonderful trip to the heaven on earth-Ladakh. All the best!

    Regards,
    Ashwin.

    • Hi Ashwin,

      Thank you so very much for this lovely, detailed info on the blog. I will surely add the information or contact about Kanha driver in the list too. Can you please re-post the same, may be copy paste the same in DoW – Himalayan Travel Community & Forums as Travel Tale!! at the link: http://devilonwheels.com/india/ladakh-zanskar-travel-tales/

      You can even add some pictures there. That ways the whole trip report would be more than helpful for many other people as well as it will be easy for me to share as well on other DoW social media platforms. In comments such useful information gets lost :(

      I am glad that you followed the advices on the blog and it proved quite useful for you to make it a memorable trip to Ladakh. Above all, thanks again for posting it back here.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Ashwin says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Sure, I’ll post it there as well and share photos too! One more point to add, we had total 12 GB of cards and still fell short of that! In all we had 2500+ snaps, so yes, I’ll share the most amazing amongst them!!

        • Thanks alot brother !! Would be a great help. Once you will copy the content in a post at community I will delete it from here to remove redundancy :) … Thanks again!1 And 2500+ pics…. whoa… Eagerly looking forward to it and in case you have covered some road signs tooo of BRO then there is an on going thread where you can append them too :)

  36. Rishi says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Very thorough and useful information. A question on the minimum size, can they issue an ILP for just one person? I am a US citizen.

    Thanks,
    Rishi

    • Rishi, if you are US Citizen then at least two people are reuqired and you need to go through a registered travel agent in that case. Also, there is a separate form that is available for foreigners or NRIs or OCI holder which is called Protected Area Permit, PAP. That will be applicable for you. However, this is very trivial process and you can get in touch with any registered travel agents in Leh to get it processed for you. Here is: Ladakh Travel Agent List

  37. pradeep says:

    Hi, Dheersaj, it is indeed an awesom blog, and many many thanks to u. This is Pradeep from Bengalooru. we are planning to go for Leh-Ladhak trip. and we want to start our journey from Srinar on 11th Aug 2013 and wants to back to Chandigad on 18th(sunday) morning. I got totally lost in our planning after reading all the quest and ur reply. Pls sugest us on how better we can ploan within given tight schedule

    • Pradeep, It will take 3 days to reach Leh from Delhi via Manali side and 4 days to come back to Delhi from Leh via Srinagar side OR vice-versa. This makes it 7 days. 1 Day is required in Leh for acclimatization and permits. You have about 8 days. Given, yo reach directly to Srinagar and then rest there for the day, it gives you an additional extra day. So, effectively you have 1 day in Leh which you can use for either Day trip to Pangong Tso or Nubra Valley.

  38. Farah says:

    Hello Dheeraj,
    1) what is the procedure for Bangladeshi tourists who are private service holder? It will be very helpful if u let me know.

    • It is a bit complicated. Permit for Bangladeshis are issued from Ministry of Home Affairs in Delhi. As per my conversations from last two readers, they were unsuccessful despite trying everywhere. I can pass along the info. from them I received over email if you like. If by chance you get though with the permits, it will be great savior for them, so please share it there too.

  39. Rajesh Salunke says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Just wanted to Give a Big THANKS to U. U r doing a GREAT job.
    I have gone through complete article and through each and every comment. U have answered each and every question and I do not have any query to ask U at this point of time.

    We, a group of 4 friends have planed to start our journey on bikes from Pune to Leh on 28th Sept 2013 (eagerly waiting for this date).

    Will come to U with lots of queries…
    Till then Thanks in advance :)

    Regards
    Rajesh Salunke

  40. Benoy says:

    hi
    Is the permit being given for Pangong Tso – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Tso Moriri route and will it be open during june end travelling in a scorpio??
    Thanks

  41. Ashwini says:

    Hello Dheeraj,
    This is a wonderful site with so much useful info.Thanks for that.
    Regards the permits, below are my queries:-
    1.We are travelling as a couple from 20-26June 2013.We arrive by flight in Leh on 20th,so do we apply for permits on 21st June?Or ask Hotel(Jigmet Guest House) to submit on our behalf oh 20th itself.This is in context of taking full rest on first day :).
    Would it be a problem to get the permits for just the two of us?Do we need to find more people and apply as a group?
    2.For attestation of documents,is self attestation ok?or do we need to get it from authorised personnel?

    • Hi Ashwini,

      1. You can apply the permits on 20th as well but better rest and apply on 21st. You can ask hotel as well or your driver too. You will not find any trouble as it is foreigners who need to be in a group of 4 to get permits. Domestic tourist can apply in any number.

      2. Though attestation is not required but better get them to be on the safest side if you can else no need for it, AFAIK.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  42. Swati says:

    Great article :) Really informative.

    I have a small query. We will be reaching Leh on sunday morning :( and we are on a tight schedule so we cannot spend a day simply without permit. How do you suggest we obtain permit in advance?

    Is it possible through an agent or in any other way?
    We just have 8 days for Leh-Ladakh.

    Maybe you have answered this already but 453 comments is a lot of comments to go through in detail :)

    • Swati, it is there in the article too :) … “Anyone who has yours or your group’s photocopies of valid nationality proof’s Photo-IDs, he / she can get these permits for you as well. Usually, the travel agents and hotels in the Leh town does provide this facility if you are OK with sharing the photocopies of your nationality proof’s Photo-IDs with them either via email or fax.”

      • Swati says:

        Thanks a lot for your reply Dheeraj.:) I read that in the article. But no one right now in Leh has photo copies of my national ID proof. And I do not know any agents from Leh.

        Can you recommend someone reliable if you happen to know anyone?
        Or can it be done online?

        • Anil Reddy says:

          Hi Dheeraj,

          We need to do either Nubra or Pangong in one day. We will go to Nubra on rented bike and Pangong on rented taxi. So , which place you suggest to make in one day ?

        • If only one has to be done, so that you do no regret, go to Pangong Tso as day trip.

        • Hi Swati,

          You can check the approved list of agent at the pdf linked here.

          It cannot be done online, but you can send/fax/email the copies to them and they will arrange it for you.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

        • Swati says:

          Thanks Dheeraj :)

  43. Gor says:

    hi dheeraj,
    Thanks for such a helpful forum.
    We are group of 3 and have a plan to visit Leh on our delhi registration bikes (June 30 to July 14). We will be following your “Most common itinerary”. We will be using Srinagar – Leh – Manali – Delhi route.

    1) Do we need to apply for any permit for our bikes? if yes where should we apply for permit?

    2) using your recommended Itinerary we will visiting following places. So for which all place do we need to apply for permit and what place name to put in forms?

    ——-
    1)Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
    2)Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
    3)Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
    4)Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
    5)Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
    6)Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
    Pang / Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
    ——–

    Thanks a lot

    • Hi Gaurav,

      1. You do not need permits anywhere if you are going in that direction that is from Srinagar to Manali. You will need Inner line permits for yourself once you reach Ladakh as described in the article above.

      2. Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri. just write these three places only.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  44. Ashwin says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I had a query about ATMs. Do ATM cards of different banks operate there in Leh? Also, are there sufficient ATMs available in Leh?

    Thanks & Regards,
    Ashwin.

  45. Om says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    On 18th June, From Srinagar we planning travel by JKRTC bus with overnight at Kargil and reaching Leh on 19th June,
    Do you know what time it reaches Leh?
    Since we are planning to leave for Nubra on 20th by booking a cab if permits are on the same day of arrival at Leh.

    Thanks in advance

    • manish singh says:

      hi dheeraj
      i m manish frm delhi plan 2 leh laddakh on 10 june 2013 so plsss tel me whole procedure of permission to pangong to tsomoriri to tso kar n dn manali via pang so plss tel me d whole procedure n villages name n post name so plsss guide me plss thankuuuu as sson as possible my no 9212512881

  46. Mandeep singh says:

    hi dheeraj,
    We will be reaching leh on 8th june. could you please advice us a 3 day itinerary from leh to pangong,tso moriri and nubra valley from leh..we will be going back from manali leh highway.we will leave leh on 11th or 12th june max.
    thanks,
    mandeep singh

  47. ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

    hi dheeraj let me know the temperature in the month of january restaurents will be open is it poss to make pangong trip

    • Anand, temperatures in Ladakh around January hovers somewhere between -4 to -8 types on an average I think, though not correctly sure. But it is assumed to be the coldest of all the seasons. Pangong Tso route will be open but there will be no accommodation present there. Restaurants, only few might be open may be Lamayuru and Gesmo but rest I assume will be closed.

    • Avijit Nandy says:

      Hi Mr.Dheeraj Sharma
      Im Avijit Nandy From Bangladesh. Me and some of my fiends are planning a trip to ladakh in upcoming August month. I have heard that Nationals of Bangladesh need to collect ILP permits from Ministry of Home Affairs in Delh, DC office of leh can not issue the permit. Could you just put some light on this issue, then i may need to rearrange my trip plan. Waiting for Your reply

      Thanking

      Avijit Nandy

      • Yes Avijit, permit for Bangladeshi, Pakistani, Chinese, Afghani and Burmese citizens are issued by the Ministry of Home Affairs in Delhi. They are called Protected Area Permit which is issued in a group of 4 or more through a registered travel agent.

  48. Vikrant Pathak says:

    Hi!

    I have found your articles interesting and very helpful indeed.
    I have already done Srinagar – Zojila Pass – Kargil – Leh – Khardungla. This time my family and self intend to do Delhi – Manali – Pangong Tso this year.
    I have the following querries,

    1. I have a Haryana Registration Scorpio, would I need a permit to go to Rohtang and beyond? If so, whats the process and time required to get the same and where would it be available from ?
    2. Where do I procure a permit to go to Pangong Tso if I am not going to Leh?
    3. Where is the last Diesel station before I reach Pangong Tso?
    4. What is a good enroute overnight halt between Manali and Pangong Tso? My family consists of me and my wife, out 2 teenaged children and 1 child of 5 years of age.
    5. When is the Manali – Pangong route likely to open? We are looking at leaving Delhi around 1st week of June.

    Await your revert.

    Thanks

    Vikrant

    • Hi Vikrant,

      1. Yes, you will need the permits to travel Manali to Rohtang Pass and beyond. Refer the article: Non – HP Vehicles Need Permit on Manali – Rohtang Pass Road

      2. You should not do Tso Moriri or Pangong Tso while going from Manali to Leh because even if you arrange these permits in advance through travel agents who can fax it to you then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended.

      3. You need to top-up from Karu ahead of Upshi.
      4. Will never suggest you do it. You should surely go to Leh to get yourself acclimatized properly. With family A BIG NO
      5. High chances that by first week it shall open, in fact in next 8-10 days it might open because snow has already been cleared from all the passes.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Javed says:

        Hi Dheeraj, I have heard from someone that the ILP fee is Rs 200+20+10 per person per day. for Environment tax+Wildlife protection tax +charity to red cross. whereas on your blog it is mentioned only rs 20/- per person per day
        can you pl elaborate on this

  49. abhisek says:

    dear all,
    do you know any reliable fair price driver who can pick us from srinagar-full leh tour and then srinagar drop.
    i talked to one driver..he is charging 25000 for srinagra leh pick and drop and 20000 for leh sight seeing for 5 days(including nubra, pangyong, local sight and river rafting point). i guess that is too much..?
    plz help….

    • For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2013-14 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

  50. Ashwin says:

    Hello Dheeraj,

    This is Ashwin again. I’ve gone through your articles in the series. All the details you have provided are very much helpful indeed. Thanks a ton for the same! Also, thanks a lot for answering queries of so many people with patience 

    Here is my plan (We modified it slightly and decided to go via Manali-Leh road as against Srinagar-Kargil-Leh as suggested by you):

    We are a family of 6 persons planning to start our journey on 16th June from Chandigarh. Also, we are planning to arrange for inner line permits through some local agent at Leh in advance.

    Day 1: Chandigarh-Manali by bus. Stay at Manali.
    Day 2: Manali-Keylong by HPTDC bus, stay at Keylong.
    Day 3: Keylong-Leh by HPTDC bus. Stay at Leh.
    Day 4: Leh local sightseeing – Shanti stupa, Zoravarsingh fort, Mud(Leh) palace.
    Day 5: Leh-Spituk-Lamayuru-UleyTokpo-Ringzong gompa-UleyTokpo. Stay at Uley-Tokpo.
    Day 6: UleyTokpo-Alchi-Likir-Nimoo-Basgo-Leh. Stay at Leh.
    Day 7: Leh-Khardung La-Khalsar-Diskit-Hunder-Diskit (stay at Hunder or Diskit)
    Day 8: Diskit-Tirith-Sumur-Panamik-Khalsar-Khardung La-Leh (Stay at Leh).
    Day 9: Leh- Stok Palace-Hemis monastery-Pangong Tso lake. (Stay at Pangong Tso lake).
    Day 10: Pangong Tso-Thiksey Monastery- Shey palace-Choglamasar – Leh (Stay at Leh).
    Day 11: Leh-Keylong by HPTDC bus. (Stay at Keylong)
    Day 12: Keylong-Manali by HPTDC bus (Stay at Manali)
    Day 13: Buffer day at Manali.
    Day 14: Manali-Chandigarh by bus.

    Does this plan look okay to you?

    In addition, I had few queries:

    1. How can we avoid traffic jam at Rohtang pass during our journey?
    2. Does any journey in this plan look too hectic or infeasible to you?
    3. I’ve gone through your list of hotels, but didn’t find a list for stay at or near Lamayuru/UleyTokpo. What sort of accommodation would be available at Lamayuru/Uley Tokpo? Is there any moderate accommodation?
    4. Do we require advanced booking for our stay in Leh, Nubra valley, Pangong lake, Uley Tokpo etc during this period (16th June – 30th June)?
    5. Which all places should we put on permit form considering this plan? Does Lamayuru/UleyTokpo (Spituk-Lamayuru-UleyTokpo-Ringzong gompa-UleyTokpo- Alchi-Likir-Nimoo-Basgo route) also require a permit?
    6. How will be the weather during this time? Will it be too cold?
    7. Can you please share your email id and contact number by mail (if you are ok with it)?
    8. Any suggestions for family safety?

    • Hi Ashwin,

      Glad you found the info. present on the blog useful enough. Regarding your queries:

      1. Not in your control brother as you are traveling by HPTDC vehicle. Also, there might not be too much mess this time because of timings of vehciles and one way traffic at Rohtang Pass from Manali and back.
      2. Not really, you should be able to do it.
      3. Uley will have mostly costly camps, at Lamayuru you will be able to find decent guest houses.
      4. If you are OK with searching abit here and there and do not have some speicifc property to stay with in mind then you can walk in and search, look and book hotels otherwise book from here.
      5. None of them required permits. In your itinerary, you only need to mention Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso.
      6. Yes, night shall be cold. Days if sun out will be pleasant, may be a bit cold at Pangong Tso.
      7. You will get an email as soon as I reply to this comment. Or use the Email Us Icon on the side bar to mail me.
      8. I think you are doing it in a fine way. Should not be a problem. Just do not exert much in initial days.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Ashwin says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks a lot for prompt response! I came to know that HPTDC bus (Manali-Leh) starts from July 1st. Is that true? In that case we’ll need to go Manali-Keylong and Keylong-Leh by HRTC buses. How is the frequency of Keylong-Leh buses? Do they commute daily? Can we book them online (because I didn’t find Keylong in the list of HRTC online reservation site) or we need to do booking once we reach Manali?

        • Ashwin, better go with taxi. HRTC for such long journey will be not that comfortable. May be take some seats in shared taxis or min buses run by local Manali Travel agents for Manali – Leh journey if you are on a budget. But, make sure they are having overnight stop at Keylong or ask for it.

    • OM says:

      Hi Dheeraj

      I have planned a tour to leh from 25april to 29 april, we have already booked hotel namgyal palace, we are a group of 23 pax.Please inform about road conditions for visit to khardungla pass, pangong tso. And cost of taxi for visiting these places.Any good place for north indian food vegetarian food.

      regards
      om

      • Roads would be full of snow but most likely open unless there is heavy snowfall on that very day.

        For the list of good restaurants in Leh – Ladakh or eateries or food joints where food is enjoyed by many travellers including me, you can check the link here: List of Good Restaurants in Leh – Ladakh | Restaurant Reviews

        For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

        • OM says:

          Hi Dheeraj

          Thanks for the reply.Information provided by u is very helpful for the first time visitor specially ILP details.
          It will be safe to visit pangong lake at this time or not.

          regards
          om

        • Thanks alot. Yes, OM it is OK to travel to Pangong Tso.

  51. piyush says:

    Hi dheeraj
    About taking the Batalik route from kargil to leh, i would require ILP right? Can tat b obained the morning i am leaving kargil? Though if theres a delay am planning on coming back to Lamayuru. How does the plan look??
    I read somewhere that such permits can be obtained from the ministry of home affairs New delhi, Khan Market office. Is that so?

    • Hi Piyush,

      Yes, you will need the permit for Batalik route. They can be obtained from Kargil DC office. Plan looks good to go I feel, you might want to stay at Alchi or Lamayuru in case you wish to stay prolonged on some places to cover. Yes, MHA does issue permits but I think they are more meant for foreigners rather domestic tourists. Not sure if they issue permits for domestic tourists

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  52. Manjunath Muniyarrappa says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Your Blog regarding the Permit details is quit brilliant, I appreciate your effort to serve :)

    Actually,I have planned for LEH in month of May. We have a team of 8 Pals who would be riding from DELHI-MANALI-LEH-JAMMU-DELHI for a period of 14 days from May 24th to June 06th 2013, I would require a few suggestions from you and Can you please suggest best itinerary according to your experience.

    Warm Regards,
    Manju

    • Hello Manjunath,

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  53. Elijah Sharma says:

    Hey Buddy.
    Thanks for this very useful thread here.
    Can i acquire all the permits i need in Leh itself?
    I’m gonna be going via Jammu – Srinagar – Kargil – Leh. Do i ned to pick up any permits along this route as well?
    Ty in advance

  54. Ashwin says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks a lot for this detailed info about inner line permits! Great article!

    We’re planning a trip to Leh for about 10 days. I had a few queries regarding this:

    1. Will we need any NOC or similar letter from local police station near our residence which we would need to carry with us?
    2. I searched for different travel agents online and found this one better amongst them:

    Do you have any idea about this agent?
    Also, can you provide contact info of the reliable local agents there who can provide tour package including accommodation, vehicle for sight seeing and other required services?

    • Hello Ashwin,

      1. No, not required. Why do you think so?
      2. Check with info@offbeatescapes.com (guys name is Gaurav) if you looking forward to economical prices or good deals. If required, you can refer my name or blog’s name too. I do not know about other travel agents else you can always plan a journey through this blog itself.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Ashwin says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        >> 1. No, not required. Why do you think so?
        I thought so because it’s a border state and may require the same from security point of view.

        Also, I saw your other blogs too. You have given very detailed info that we can plan journey ourselves. Thanks for sharing the same!

        I had few more queries regarding this:

        1. I read somewhere that we can do rafting at Phey in Indus river. Is it available for all? Will anybody who can’t swim be able to do that? Also, how far is Phey from Leh? Can we do it in one day?

        2. Would we require to buy one or two oxygen cylinders with us (just as a precaution in case of emergency)? Where will they be available? In Manali?

        3. In your sample schedule given in http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/how-to-calculate-cost-or-budget-for-leh-ladakh-trip/

        you have mentioned a stay at Pangong Tso. How is the accommodation available there?

        • Hello Ashwin,

          This is the process of Inner Line Permits and you are not required to submit any kind of police verification document as per the requirements of Inner Line Permits. Regarding other queries,

          1. Yes, you can do rafting from Phey to Nimmu in Indus River. This can be covered in one day very easily, Phey is about 12 KMs from Leh and Nimmu is about 37 KMs from Leh.

          2. I am not sure on this one because somewhere I read that small cylinders are not of that use. May be, search for Vistet blog for more on this one regarding AMS.

          3. You will be able to find luxury as well as standard tents at Pangong Tso. For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

          Regards
          dheeraj Sharma

  55. Sanjoy Ram says:

    hi..i want to visit leh-ladakh on late of june,2013.But we are only two fellows(me and my wife)a newly married couple.kindly suggest me is it safe for journey at leh.one more thing please suggest me about some vehicle in which we can travel either from manali or from jammu.
    Thanking you.

    • Sanjoy, it is completely safe to travel and a lot of people even do it alone. Try to take HPTDC Semi Deluxe bus from Manali or towards it which also include accommodation and would prove economical too. Also, from Srinagar side, you may tag along with other tourists or take some shared taxi because a dedicated taxi will be costly. Again, private taxis are very costly in Leh but you will be able to find the shared taxi without much fuss at all. There are lots of flyers which people put at cafes, dine-ins, restaurants, travel agent desks/shops/whiteboards wanting to share the taxis for different trips within Ladakh. Even travel agent organize such shared taxis trip as well but charge a little higher about Rs 200-300 more than it would ideally cost. So, in worst case you can always go back to them and book a seat for yourself. Gelling up with people in Ladakh is more or less easy because many people travel solo and look forward to meet new people and share cultural thoughts and values over the trip. No where else in the world you will find more smiling and helpful people as Ladakhis are :)

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Sanjoy Ram says:

      Thanks frnd for your suggession. Kindly give me the itinenary with as minimum as possible (5 to 7 days)for covering almost all places from Srinagar and Manali.I am starting my journey from Kolkata by Train.
      Regards
      Sanjoy Ram

      • Sanjoy, 7 days is too less a period to explore Leh – Ladakh by road. You need a bare minimum 12 days to explore Leh – Ladakh with Srinagar – Leh Highway and Manali – Leh Highway.

      • Sanjoy Ram says:

        So Frnd kindly gave me the 12days details itinenary according to you.
        Thanking you.
        Sanjoy Ram.

        • Hello Sanjoy,

          In that case, you can follow the below itinerary.

          Day 1 | Delhi – Srinagar
          — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
          — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          Day 2 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 3 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh Local Sightseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 6 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 7 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

          Day 8 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 9 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
          — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
          — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 10 | Leh – Taglang La – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu
          — Stay overnight at Sarchu

          Day 11 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Day 12 | Manali – Delhi
          Day 13 + 14 | Buffer days to be kept incase of road closure due to landslides or snowfall or perhaps you want to enjoy more.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any doubts or queries.

          regards
          Dheeraj sharma

  56. kishore nair says:

    Hi again. Some where earlier you have mentioned ‘Bargain hard with taxi driver’ . I thought that taxi rates are charged as prescribed by the Leh authorities. please clarify. Best wishes, Kishore

  57. kishore nair says:

    Dear Dheeraj

    Can you suggest some operators who will arrange for ILP, good guest house and taxi for our 9 days in Leh Ladakh from 20th June to 28th June 2013? Since we are two to three families and we are total strangers from Mumbai, a reliable tour facilitator will be of a great help.

    Best wishes

    Kishore

    • Kishore, I know some people out there who would be able to help you out. But, do you want to have it as complete package tour? How many of you are there (size does talk about pricing too, more you are more better deal you will get) and much will rely on your itinerary too. Is it finalized? Also, do you want the taxi yourself or as a part of it only?

      • kishore nair says:

        Hi Dheeraj

        The tentative programme follows your recommendation!!! We are ten of us (6 parents and 4 teens). Please put me across to some one reliable. Higher end Guest house stay will be preferable..
        15-Jun Mumbai
        17-Jun Jammu to Srinagar
        18-Jun Srinagar – Srinagar local sigh seeing
        19-Jun Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
        Enjoy the vistas enroute
        Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
        Overnight at Kargil
        About 8 Hrs drive, depend upon the traffic movement at Zozila and breaks you take in between
        20-Jun Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
        Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
        On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
        Overnight at Leh
        About 9-10 Hrs drive, , depending upon the breaks you take in between
        21-Jun Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
        To know the about the places to visit in/around Leh, check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
        For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
        Overnight at Leh
        22-Jun Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
        Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
        On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
        Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
        About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and at Khardung La
        23-Jun Day 7 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
        Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
        Overnight at Leh
        About 7-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
        24-Jun Day 8 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
        Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
        Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)
        About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
        25-Jun Day 9 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
        Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
        Overnight at Leh
        About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
        25-Jun Day 10 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
        Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, Gurudwara Pather Sahib
        Overnight at Leh
        26-Jun Day 11 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
        Cover Karzok Monastery
        Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
        About 7-8 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
        27-Jun Day 12 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
        Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
        Overnight at Sarchu or Pang
        About 11-12 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between
        28-Jun keylong
        29-Jun Manali
        30-Jun Manali – sight seeing
        1-Jul Manali to Chandigarh
        2-Jul Chandigarh sight seeing
        3-Jul Train to Mumbai

  58. Minakshi says:

    Hi!!
    First of all, I would really like to thank you for your efforts.

    I am writing to see what is the best time of the year to travel to Leh-Laddakh. I am planning to spend about 10-12 days and want to stay in tents, travel everywhere possible.

    I have not booked flights yet. So first need help in deciding the best time because I am sure its going to be like the trip of a lifetime.

    Could you suggest. Once I have the time and tickets booked, will request more specific itinerary.

    Thanks again
    Minakshi

    • Hello Minakshi,

      Thanks alot :)

      It is always nice to plan your journey in last 10 days of June or first 2-3 weeks of July when you can find ample of snow on roads and roads will be open by that time from both Srinagar as well as Manali side to Leh – Ladakh. However, please keep in mind that road conditions hardly improve on Manali – Leh road and remains almost quite challenging + adventurous all throughout the season. It improves slightly towards the end of season that is September or October first week but by that time snow is all gone and risk of road closure increases. So, you need to be prepared for all the adventure that Manali – Leh Highway offers a traveller in the month of June – July and situation worsens when monsoon comes in late July, August and early September now a days. So IMHO, overall whatever best window you will get so that you avoid monsoons, see ample of snow and roads are open for you will be like 15th June – 20th July window.

      If you want to see beautiful colours of Ladakh then second half/late of September is THE best time to visit Leh – Ladakh when these colours are oozing and burning out vividly and of course, the road conditions does get better in late September type when rains reside the region completely. It is my favorite time to visit Leh – Ladakh region and yeah, tourists head count all dips a bit in late in the season.

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  59. kishore nair says:

    Is Aadhar card accepted as identity proof for Inner Line Permit? Please advise

  60. Mrs. Koli says:

    Is there ant facility of getting the Leh Innerline permit online?
    through website or applying online?

  61. Rajiv shah says:

    I forgot to inform that we r taking innova as a self driven taxi all the way, will it be allowed everywhere or we have to take permit of vehicle also

    • Rajiv shah says:

      Hi dheeraj,plz reply and guide for the same, thanks, rajiv

      • Replied, please check and let me know if you have any further queries or doubts.

        • Rajiv shah says:

          Hi dheeraj , car dealer Avis provides self drive cars with black number plate and yellow fonts and that car is allowed to roam inside leh , could you plz guide what the funda is and can we take some other self drive suv the same way,
          Thanks , rajiv

        • As far as I last heard they both Avis and Carzonerent have stopped giving SUVs on rent for Ladakh trip, I am not sure about present situation though. Have you checked with them?

        • RAJIV SHAH says:

          thanks for replying, ya avis and two others are giving there self hired suv for ladakh,but the only confusion is that it would be allowed inside ladakh or not ,
          if possible gather some information from your side,
          thanks,
          rajiv

        • Wow, that’s surprise. Yes, if it has black colored number plate then it will be allowed. Also, if possible do share with us the procedure of hiring the self drive SUV with all of us here too. It will help many others. Thanks!!

    • Rajiv, permits are required only for people in Ladakh not for vehicles. If the innova has a private number then only you will be allowed to roam inside Ladakh otherwise you can use it to reach Leh and then move out of Leh to Manali but not within Ladakh.

      For details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  62. Rajiv shah says:

    Hi dheeraj,
    Very well detailed information on ur blog, thanks for that. I have a query.
    I am leaving from Delhi by a self driven taxi for leh on 27th may via srinagar route and will spend 12 days returning via manali route. Could u plz suggest the best places to visit as I think I have sufficient time, and also will I be able to take the Delhi taxi all the way, waiting for ur response , thanks , regards , rajiv shah, 09425412347

    • Hello Rajiv,

      Taxis outside Ladakh are not allowed to do any sightseeing within Leh – Ladakh. You can use them for drop-in and take-away modes only. So, the taxi you are hiring locally must have private number plate otherwise you will have to again hire a taxi within Ladakh and pay for your local taxi without using it.

      To get an idea of the places to see on the route, you can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the list of good restaurants in Leh – Ladakh or eateries or food joints where food is enjoyed by many travellers including me, you can check the link here: List of Good Restaurants in Leh – Ladakh | Restaurant Reviews

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Rajiv shah says:

        Thanks dheeraj,
        It’s a great help and advice, will be back If I have some more query,
        Thanks ,
        Rajiv Shah

  63. Mansoor says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Very much impressed with your Blog..explained very neatly in detail

    Need your suggestion abt my trip plan..v r group of 9 ppl and would like to start from chandigarh on 20june2013 to leh via srinagar and come back via manali by 29th june night..v r planning to hire a taxi (Tempo traveller) from chandigarh so could please advise wht al permits requiered for both individual and taxi (looking fro detailed explanation on this) and also would like to knw d road tax for entering each state…thanks in advance

    • Hello Mansoor,

      Your Tempo Traveller will not be permited for sightseeing in Leh – Ladakh. You will have to hire a separate Ladakh registered vehicle again. You do not need any permits for vehicle but for people traveling with you. For details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Mansoor says:

        I am little confused here…If we are hiring a Tempo Tempo Traveller from Chandigarh…cant we pass through Leh from Srinagar to Manali road…It would be great if you can suggest the best possible idea for hiring d vehicle..As I said before we would like to start from Chandigarh to Leh via Srinagar and come back via Manali (I thnk booking the taxi for one way would be little expensive)

        • Mansoor, you can take the Chandigarh vehicle to Ladakh and come back from there in it but once you will reach Ladakh then you will not be allowed to do sightseeing with in Leh – Ladakh to places like Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley. For that you will need to hire a taxi with Ladakh number on it. So, once you reach Leh hire another taxi for sightseeing and park your vehicle at taxi stand or at hotel.

          For the leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

    • Anil Reddy says:

      Hi Mansoor,

      I had a similar question on hired cab from delhi to travel via jammu,srinagar,kargil,leh,manali and back to delhi.
      what are all permits and road tax for entering each state.
      Could you please share the answer if you know ?

      • Hi Anil,

        Taxis outside Ladakh are not allowed to do any sightseeing within Leh – Ladakh. You can use them for drop-in and take-away modes only. So, the taxi you are hiring locally must have private number plate otherwise you will have to again hire a taxi within Ladakh and pay for your local taxi without using it.

        It is better to reach Srinagar by Air to save time and some energy. Then, hire a taxi to Kargil from Srinagar and fix a taxi of Ladakh number in Kargil (get help from drivers in the article of taxi rates linked below) which will allow you to do sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway as well (Srinagar taxi will not be allowed) and keep that Ladakh number taxi with you for rest of the trip.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

        • Anil Reddy says:

          Hi Dheeraj,

          Thanks for reply. Your answer is not complete , I am sorry.
          We will hire a separate taxi for ladakh sight seeing in Leh.
          What I want to know is if we hire a cab from delhi to delhi for our whole trip , what are state tax rates we need to pay for all the states we pass through if we go in the route DELHI-JAMMU-SRINAGAR-KARGIL-LEH-MANALI-DELHI

        • Sorry, Anil. I do not have updated tax rates as there are loads of them on NH-1 itself, mind you they are just tolls. The state tax would also be there but no idea on that front.

        • Anil Reddy says:

          Thanks much Dheersj.
          I will find out.

        • Anil, please share the details with us too :)

  64. abhishek says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    I plan to visit Leh via Srinagar and return via Manali with 3 of my friends in our car.Can you propose a good itinerary for 10 days going via srinagar and return via Manali. Look forward to your vaulable support.
    Our travel dates are June 15th to June 24, 2013> Let us know if we need to add another day, which we will do if there is a great need as this is a life time dream coming true. I dont wnt to visit too many monestries but rather visit more beatiful spots and spend time in nature and enjoy my best friends company.
    Best Regards
    Abhishek

    • Hello Abhishek,

      For 10 days you can follow the below itinerary, if you can add 2 more days then you can use one day for Nubra Valley to make it at ease and visit Sumur and Panamik as well. The other day can be used to visit Tso Moriri lake and exit from Tso Moriri towards Manali – Leh / sarchu.

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sightseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
      – Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
      – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      – Day trip to Pangong Tso
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 10 | Manali – Delhi

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  65. Chris Grose says:

    some great posts on inner line permits. Can you confirm that permits are only available in Leh? I had been planning to travel Manali-Tso Kar – Tso Moriri-Leh but if permits not available in Manali I guess this is not possible?
    Anyone got any comments?
    Thanks
    Chris

    • Hello Chris,

      You should not do Tso Moriri while going from Manali to Leh because one need permits to visit Tso Moriri and these permits are issued at DC office in Leh only. Even if you arrange these permits in advance (like mentioned below) somehow then taxi from Manali will not be allowed to visit Tso Moriri. Even if you manage Leh taxi or going on your own, then you will not be acclimatized to sleep at such high altitude so early in the trip and may cause some ugly AMS issues for you. Highly not recommended.

      You can get the permits in advance by contacting any local travel agent in Leh or your hotel. They will ask you to fax or email your photo IDs and the required fees they would be charging (Charge about Rs 200 to Rs 250 per person). Once done, they email/fax back your permit which you can make further copies and keep it with you.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  66. Chinmoy Khaskel says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    It’s Chinmoy again. I found out that the web page ‘travel-guide-local-sightseeing-leh-ladakh’ is not opening. Can you please check.
    Thanks,
    Chinmoy.

  67. Rupen says:

    11 of us are planning a trip to the region. Flying from Srinagar to Leh on Jul 24, and flying out of Leh on Jul 31. We have the following plan and would like to know if this is ok.

    Jul 24 – arrive and spend the night in Leh
    Jul 25 – Drive to Nubra Valley and spend the night in tent
    Jul 26 – Drive from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso Lake, spend 2 nights in tent
    Jul 28 – Drive to Tso Moriri Lake, spend 2 nights in tent
    Jul 30 – Drive back to Leh, spend 1 night in Leh
    Jul 31 – Fly out of Leh

    Do you see any problem with this. Our dates in/out of Leh are fixed. If you can offer any suggestions for changing this, it would be appreciated.

    Also, 8 of us are US citizens, and 3 are Indian citizens. Will all of us be able to visit Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri?

    Can we get permits ahead of time? I’m concerned about the risk of getting permits once we arrive in Leh.

    Thanks for your help.

    • Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
      — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
      — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
      — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
      — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
      — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
      — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
      — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.
       
      Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
      — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
      — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
      — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
      — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
      — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing. To know the about the places to visit check the link: Travel Guide for Local Sightseeing of Leh Town in Ladakh
      — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
      — Overnight at Leh
       
      Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
       
      Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh
      — Make a Day trip to Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
       
      Day 7 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Upshi – Leh
      — Come back via Tso Kar and Manali – Leh Highway to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Now instead of coming back to Leh on Day 4 from Nubra Valley, you can go to Pangong Tso directly using either Shyok Village route if that is open and driver agrees to do it OR you can take the Wari La route which is about 10+ hrs of drive. So start early and then skip Sumur and Panamik.

      You can get the permits in advance but since you are flying to Leh directly, you will have to stay there at least two days without much activity in order to acclimatize yourself.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Guess, something went wrong with last reply. I also stated that if you stick to normal routes to Pangong tso and Tso Moriri then it should be fine for all of us to visit these places. But, non-Indian citizens are not allowed on direct routes of Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri.

  68. Philip says:

    Could you comment on current (2012-2013) road conditions from Manali leading to Mahhri into the Spitti and Kinaur valleys? I have reliable information from 2008 that road conditions are not that good, but that there are road works in that area. Has anything improved since then? We are cycling up there.

    • Hi Philip,

      Well, the road conditions from

      Manali to Gulaba – Quite Fine
      Gulaba to Marhi – Average in normal time, quite quite bad in Monsoon
      Marhi to Rothang Pass to Gramphu – Bad
      Gramphu to Batal to Kunzum Pass to Losar – Again bad and nothing much would have changed since you last visited
      Losar to Kaza – Very Nice, smooth Tarmac
      Kaza to Tabo to Nako to Kalpa to Sangla – Over all very nice but in between some bad or rough patches.

      I hope that helps. Let me know for any doubts or queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Abhishek says:

        Hi Dheeraj,
        How r u?
        Well if u can suggest that will it be a good decision to come Leh on 05 apr 2013? And would be able to have a stay in pangong and Tso moriri for 01 night each in camps by this time?

        Thanks in well advance,dear…
        Abhishek

        • Abhishek, you can fly to Ladakh at that time of the year. It will be very cold there but might be bearable if you are OK with cold conditions. Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri both will be frozen and no stay options would be running at that time of the year. Moreover, it is not recommended at all to stay overnight at Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri at that time of the year owing to extreme cold conditions.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Abhishek says:

          Hi Dheeraj,
          Thanks for ur kind advice, but are u sure that no night stay is recommended at pangong Tso & Tso moriri.
          As we have already booked our flights for the scheduled dates.
          If we can bear the cold condition than will it be possible for us?
          And will both Tso will be a beauty to watch at this type?
          Pl suggest dear…
          Thanks & Regards:-
          Abhishek

        • Abhishek, last year I was there in last week of April and it was super chill up there. None of the setups were up and running for accommodation at that time. My friends tried to camp there but it was mighty cold, expect temperatures well below zero. IN fact, in Leh itself it was like -6 degress and the super chilled winds makes it worse. Finally, my friend took a room and then installed the camp in that room and he was super chilled in that as well.

          Also, at this time of the year both Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri would be frozen. Check the pictures from the last year Travelogue in Travel Tales section. Pangong Tso was about to melt completely and Tso Moriri was mostly frozen only in April last week.

        • Abhishek says:

          Thanks buddy for the same.
          It means we have rethink for coming…
          And hopefully roads would be closed…can u give some clarity on it as well plz.
          Thanks
          Abhishek

        • Abhishek, if you are directly flying to Leh then there will not be much issues because roads inside Ladakh are kept open all round the year. But, if want to go to Ladakh on a road journey via Manali or via Srinagar then yes, both Manali – Leh Road and Srinagar – Leh Road will be closed.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  69. ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

    Halo dheeraj myself travelling with my spouse &child by last week of april pls suggest some good hotels with heating facilites

    • Hi Anand,

      Some of the good hotels I am aware off are Lasermo, Omasila, Caravan Centre, Royal Heritage Resort, Cho Palace, Shaynam, Oriental etc. where you can find good facility and even heaters too if their budget suits you.

      April will be cold in Leh – Ladakh, do carry heavy woolens and stay wrapped in them there. Do not play with cold by neglecting it in Ladakh especially in initial days of your stay.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

        thanks for u r valuable reply can u tell me approx cost by innova to leh locals,alchi,gurugwara,magnetic hill,hemis thiksey,big statue leh palace,nubra ,panamik,pangong and how to plan for 7 days

        • For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

      • ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

        Halo dheeraj my trip to ladakh by april last week advance booking for rooms is required pls give ur valuable suggestion

        • Hello Anand,

          In April you will not need any pre-bookings for the rooms in Ladakh as it is completely off season at that time of the year.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  70. Rajesh Sharma says:

    Dear sir
    we 15friends want leh ladakh tour on july 13 via manali spiti valley- keylong sarchu leh ladakh please help us leh ladakh visiting programme

    • Hi Rajesh,

      How many days you have in hand and what will be your mode of transport? I will reply accordingly.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Rajesh Sharma says:

        we have 5 days in leh ladakh tour from delhi jammu baltal – kargil leh. please tell us is it ok to cover the important places of leh ladakh then we will go to sarchu via thso morri- debring sarchu. visiting time july 8th to july 14th.

        • Rajesh are these 5 days just for Leh – Ladakh. If yes, then how are you managing the Jammu – Baltal – amarnath yatra. Is it excluded in the days you have mentioned here?

        • Rajesh Sharma says:

          we are in 5 days only in leh ladakh before coming to leh we are going to amaranath and vaishnov devi and after 5 days in leh ladakh to sarchu kaza manali ok

        • For 5 days in Ladakh, try follow the below itineary:

          Day 1 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits (6th August)
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 2 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 3 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          – Day trip to Pangong Tso
          – Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Taglang La – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu
          — Stay overnight at Sarchu

          Day 6 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Hope this helps, let me know in case of any further queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  71. Hirak says:

    I wanted to know if separate permission letters & form will be required for each car in the group. We will be going with 7 cars in the group.

    Also what is the current situation with Chusul route are we getting permits for it?

    • Hirak, Inner Line Permits are for individuals not for the car. So, every person must have their name on the permit with required fees paid in his/her name. If you have to traverse the Chusul route, it is better to make the trip in less touristy season ie late in the season. Most likely in season time permits may not be given but nothing certain if your lucky ;)

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Hirak says:

        It just came to my mind that our dates are coinciding with the Ladakh Festival dates from 1st to 15th Sept. So I guess during this time Leh will be super crowded and so it will be difficult to get accommodations as well as permits to off beat places? Also how is the scenario in the entire region during these festivities.

        • Hirak, generally the accommodation will be moderately full not to the entirety apart from few popular hotels or guest houses. Yes, it will be crowded but not mostly by tourists or travellers but by guests, participants and locals who are more keen in the festival. In season time, it will be difficult to get the permits considering the records of past few years as they do not want any kind of nuisance to be created by irresponsible tourists, so they avoid it. You can shoot some really vivid colors and portraits if you are interested in taking them at that time of the year :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  72. Rez Uddin says:

    Hello Sir,
    I would be visiting Leh- Ladakh region in mid-2013…
    1. In which routes foreigners are not allowed? Will I get permits for Turtuk, Shyok, Marsimik La, Man- Merak- Chususl- Tsaga- Loma- Hanle- Nyoma, Batalik- Dha- hanu etc. as a foreigner?
    2. Can you suggest some Travel Agent/ Guest House in Leh who can arrange permits in advance for me at a reasonable cost, for all the places I want to go, efficiently?
    3. If I want to go from Nubra to Pangong Tso and Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri directly, what (shortest) routes should I take as a foreigner?
    4. Can you plz list me the name of all the places I should put in the form so that I am not tuned back from any check post? I would like to cover Srinagar- Zanskar- Leh- Nubra Valley- Pangong Tso- Tso Moriri- Manali in 3 weeks.
    Thanks in advance.

    • Hi Rez,

      1. Nopes, you will not get the permits for Marsimik La, Man – Merak – Chusul – Hanle – Nyoma route. But, you can get the permits for Batalik, Dha-Hanu and might be even for Turtuk. Tough I am not sure of Turtuk.

      2. You can check with Asia Guest House, Shanti Guest House, Oriental, Shaynam Hotel, Sia La for getting the permits. Contacts in below link of list of hotels in Leh Ladakh

      3. Pangong – Nubra, you can take either Wari La or Shyok route wich ever is open. For Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, you will have to follow the traditional route only which takes you all the back to Karu, just 36 KMs before Leh and then you move left towards Tso Moriri.

      4. You do not need any permits for Zanskar Valley. Rest just put Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Shyok, Wari La, Turtuk.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  73. manish says:

    hi, i want to visit in june from ambala, kalpa, nako, kaza, chandra tal lake, keylong, pangong tso, tso moriri, and back to manali without going leh due to leh taxi union problem. so can i get leh inner permit from leh to visit tso lakes, can any travel agent arrange inner permit by post or hand over me by rout pls help me. if i can do so i can save lot of money from leh taxi rules

    • Manish, can’t you hire a taxi with private number? Also, you can get the permits in advance through some fax or email but the real problem is that your body will not be acclimatized by then to sleep at High altitudes lakes of Ladakh ie Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso. Plus, for the direct route to Pangong Tso from Tso moriri it will be highly difficult to get the permit without your presence and one mistake in writing down the place would let you stranded and make you return from that place along with the loss of money given for the advance permits.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  74. Faraz says:

    Hi there..We are a group of 6 people…and we are planning to camp at pangong lake for around 2 days/nights.

    We are planning to reach leh on the 28th of december, 2012. We would be leaving back to delhi on the 1st of january, 2013.

    Please let me know what could be our options to fully utilize this (short) trip to laddakh.

    • Faraz says:

      And also if it is feasible?

      :)

    • Hi Faraz,

      In December it is not possible to camp aside Pangong Tso, I mean not advisable at all else you might like to freeze there. You will have to stay at Tangste in some guest house may be and then make trip to Pangong Tso from there and come back. Acclimatize for the first two days in Leh only and then head for a day trip to Pangong Tso and be back in Leh. On the last day, make a day trip to Sham Valley or Khardung La pass and leave for Delhi on 5th day.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any query or doubt.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  75. Sheikh Aziz says:

    Hi,
    I have planned for leh from 31st march to 8th of april,2013. Is it good time to visit Leh? and How many days does it require to explore most of the places?
    Will the roads inside leh open in first week of leh?
    TIA

    • Hello Aziz,

      Well, it will be cold up there at that time of the year and limited options of food. I was there in late April this year and for couple of days we had trouble finding chapati :) … Since, roads to Leh – Ladakh will NOT be open so you will be flying in and out of Leh. You will need about 8-9 days to epxlore most of the places and keep in mind that both Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso would most likely be frozen at that time of the year.

      Regards
      Dheeraj sharma

      • Dipali says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        We 6 ppl are planning to fly to Leh on 28th April 2013.
        Will it be possible to visit all the main places, at that period of year?
        I mean, Khardung la would be opened at that time?

        Can you also please refer a good place to stay near Pangong lake?

        Regards,

        Dipali Abhyankar

        • Hi dipali,

          Yes, the inroads in Ladakh remain open all round the year. So, you can visit all the major tourist destination at time of the year. Only exception could be fresh snowfall on those dates only when you plan to travel Staying on Pangong Tso will not be possible and you will have to stay at some guest house at Tangste about 34 KMs before Pangong Tso.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any query or doubt.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Dipali says:

          Hi Dheeraj,

          Thanks for your reply.
          Please let me know if this plan looks ok.

          4th May : reaching Leh Airport t @ 8pm

          5th May : rest & Shanti Stup, shopping etc

          6 & 7th may : Nubra valley, Diskit, Hunder etc

          8 & 9th May : alchi, Lamayuru, Gurudwara, Magnetic hill etc etc

          10& 11th May : on way to Pangong, covering few monasteries.
          11th May eve : back to Leh.
          12th May : flight to Delhi

          Regards,

          Dipali Abhyankar

        • Dipali, I think it is 8 AM :) … Visit Alchi, Lamayuru first and then head for Nubra Valley of 8,9. Rest looks perfect :) … And yeah, do take ample of rest on first two days without any kind of exertion.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  76. Shahryar says:

    Hi Dheeraj!

    I have been a follower of your passionate & updated website for quiet some time as I am planning to visit the Srinagar- Leh/ Ladakh- Manali route next year. I have 2 options: (i) 2nd & 3rd week of August 2013 or (ii) 2nd & 3rd week of October 2013; which time-frame would be the better option for the trip? i.e. Will the August option create some problem regarding extra security checks/ threat of attack/ extra restrictions to visit places within Leh/ Ladakh due to Independence Day and also rain? Will the October option be too cold/ risky o visit places by road in the region?

    One more thing, I am from Bangladesh. I have heard that Bangladeshis need to take permission from the Indian Home Ministry to visit some places in the region. Is this requirement still in place, or has it been relaxed (i.e. is it now possible to get permits for Bangladeshis after reaching Leh?)?

    Hope you won’t mind answering my queries (current & future)… :)

    Thanks in advance.

    • Hello Sharyar,

      Well out of the two I will favor August window though you might need to battle a bit with monsoons in the lower hills over Manali – Leh Highway and Srinagar – Leh Highway. October will be cold and especially risky for road journey over Manali – Leh highway and accommodation problems as well at lot of places.

      I guess that is still applicable regarding permits but I am not 100% sure :(

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you need any further details or have any queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Shahryar, were you able to get the permits? If yes, can you please let us know the experience or process of getting it. Someone from Bangladesh really need to know. May be it will help them plan their trip successfully. Please help.

  77. Nattaporn Booranasrisak says:

    Dear Dheeraj H.,
    I and my team (total 4 prs incld. myself) are from Thailand. We are extremely want to visit Ladakh in June 12-19, 2013. I would like to ask about the Hemis Festival on June 18, 2013. There’ll be Hemis Festival on June 18-19, So would it be possible if we will go and take a night at Pangong Tso on June17, and depart from Pangong on early June 18, then enroute visit the festival ?? Please kindly answer. Regards.

    • Hello Nattaporn,

      It takes about 5-6 Hrs from Pangong Tso to reach to Hemis if you do not stop too often on the way. You can leave abbout 5 AM in the morning and may be able to see some part of that festival for sure. Or else make a day trip to Pangong Tso if you do not want to miss out on anything.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  78. Appaji Apte says:

    We are group of 4 senior citizens bet 62 to 65 planning Leh trip via Manali and reaching Srinagar. Duration 12 days. Can u suggest itinery?

    • Hello Appaji,

      Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  79. Nirmalya says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    please guide us regarding the ILP.
    We want to visit Nubra Valley(Deskit,Hunder,Panamik,Sumur),Pangong Tso, Tso moriri and Tso Kar and Sham Side. In that case whether I have to write ‘Nubra,Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri’ or have to mention Tso kar also?
    Waiting for your reply.

    • Hello Nirmalya,

      Just mention Nubra,Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. There is no need to mention Tso Kar.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  80. Kp says:

    I and my friend are planning to go to Leh in May-June for 15 Days by our own car and the route would be Delhi – Manali – Rohtang – Ladakh – Leh – Pangong Tso – Kargil – Srinagar – Delhi. Please let me know, how should we arrange the Permits and for what all places do we need to apply permits for?

    • Hello KP,

      Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

      You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here for 14-15 days: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh (Leh, Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri) including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

      Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

      For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway and Ladakh, I will say:

      You will indeed face few tough challenges on the route. The hatchback/sedan will increase the level of every challenge even further, sedan is the worst candidate. My suggestion will be to go via Srinagar route as it will help you feel comfortable with the driving, provide more acclimatization and then once you have done the local Leh-Ladakh, then come back via Manali side. Secondly, since you are in hatch/sedan, then you need to drive with extra care as well. There will be some sections on the Manali – Leh highway in which you might need to sacrifice some scratches on the underbelly. Just make sure you do not bump the engine sump (know it before where it is placed in your car). You need to protect it all around the trip. Thirdly, whenever in doubt do not rush into the section rather park aside and feel the section with your foot, see how other vehicles are crossing it and make a planned route in your mind to cross that section. At the very least do carry Mseal, quick fix, funnel, jerry cans and towing rope with you all the time.

      Also, I will strongly suggest that you go through and read my series on Ladakh Self Drive tips at the links below:

      7 Useful Tips for a Self Drive to Leh – Ladakh, Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips, Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  81. Rahul says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your quick response. Need answer to one more question. Below is my travel plan , can you tell me what all places should i write in application form for inner line permits.

    1) Nubra Valley via Khardungla,Deskit and Hunder Village.

    2) Pangong Lake through Changla Pass.

    3) Tsomoriri Lake- Sumda -Polokongka pass – Chumathang – Tsokar- Leh

    • I hope it is not that late but still you need to write Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Nubra Valley only to visit above places you have mentioned.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      PS -> Sorry for the delayed reply, I was traveling Zanskar Valley for past 9-10 days and was away from network.

  82. Praveen Kumar says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Need 1 more help is there and connecting route between Leh-Pangong Tso- Tso Moriri- to leh manali highway without coming back to leh.

    Please guide.

    Thanks
    Praveen

    • Hi Praveen,

      Though the permits are not being issued for this route but it goes like: Pangong Tso – Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  83. Praveen Kumar says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    I have 1 query. will we can roam in leh region in our own personal vehicle (white number plate) or we have to hire local taxi from there to visit leh region. I heard that they are not allowing taxi outside J&K in leh region. will this case is also applicable for private vehicle. Also i am writing below application letter for inner line permission. Pls go thru it and let me know if i have missed out something to mention.

    Thanks
    Praveen

    We (a group of 5 persons) came here as a tourist from New Delhi to visit Ladakh region for sightseeing purposes. We are keenly interested in visiting regions around “Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Hanle, Changthang and Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri ” and for the same we intend to stay from ………………….. to ………………….. in Ladakh region. Our mode of transport will be by our own vehicle number PB10 U 0866
    We request you to kindly grant permission so that we can get the required permits to visit the above mention places. We shall be highly grateful to you.
    Thanking You.

    • Hello Praveen,

      As long as it is white number plate, you will be allowed no problems with it. Regarding the letter, you will not get the permits for Pangong Tso to Tso MOriri route. But, in case you want to try you need not write Changthang but thhese places: Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle. Most likely you will be denied permits for Chusul and Tsaga.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Praveen Kumar says:

        Thanks Dheeraj for the info. I will try if they can give permit else we have no option to take a longer route. Just tell 1 more thing do i write changthang only for this route or i have to write all these place Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle in permission letter.

        Thanks once again for ur grate support

      • Praveen Kumar says:

        Thank U very much for the info Dheeraj… :-)

  84. noman hasan says:

    Hi Dheeraj sir,
    Really helpful & truly great article sir.
    Sir here I need ur help. Actually v group of 4 people intrested to visit srinagar + leh. I am going to reach srinagar on 15th october in my personal Xylo from gujarat. I would like to cover srinagar & leh both in max 10 days. is that fairly possible??
    Can u plz suggest me an ideall itinerary as per experience

    • Hi Noman,

      It is difficult to cover Srinagar – Leh – Srinagar in 10 days ex. Delhi because it requires 4 days to reach Leh from Delhi via Srinagar and then 4 days for coming back. This way you will have just one day for Leh – Ladakh. Is that OK for you?

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • noman hasan says:

        Thank u sir.
        Sir i am reaching to srinagar on 15th oct & i gonna leave it on 27th oct. so i hv complete 12 days in sringar. So i can manage 4 days in srinagr, 4 days leh & 4 days for traveling to Leh & back.
        So sir i want d itinerary for d key places to cover.
        Sir i also want one info regarding d car. Actually i heard tht in some places of leh as well in srinagar, local taxi drivers are not allowing d private cars to go for some sight seeing. Can i roam each & every place in my personal ( white number plate car).

        And wht aboout d road condition of srinagar-leh highway. Actully i am a good driver but not d professional off road driver. Can a person like me drive ovr thr?

        • Hi Noman,

          Nopes, this is not correct you can ply your private car anywhere in Ladakh and no one can stop unless otherwise it has a yellow number plate registered outside the Ladakh region. Srinagar – Leh would be in much better shape at that time considering dry weather those days. DO take care of heavy woolens as winters would have arrived there and it could get very cold

          That is good amount of time you have and in such a case you can do the following plan covering both the routes from Srinagar to Leh

          Day 1 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 2 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 3 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          –For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake – Tangste
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Tangste as Pangong Tso accommodation might have been closed

          Day 7 | Tangste – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 8 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
          — Cover Karzok Monastery
          — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri (Overnight might not be possible in camps so Homestay is the option)

          Day 9 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Upshi – Leh
          — Come back via Tso Kar and Manali – Leh Highway to Leh
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 10 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 11 | Leh – Batalik – Kargil
          — You can cover Dha/Hanu Villages on the way but DO NOT forget to take the permits for Dha / Hanu and Batalik
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 12 | Kargil – Drass – Zozi La – Sonamarg – Srinagar
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Sonamarg
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • noman hasan says:

          Thank u very much for ur kind & quick response.
          But sir I want d itinirary for 4 to 5 days for d key places of Srinagar & 4 to 5 days of leh(excluding travelling).
          Actually none of my friend hv any idea about any place of d J & K.
          Thank u sir

        • Hi Noman,

          In that case, you can have a two day trip to Nubra Valley and one day trip to Pangong Tso. Plus one day local sightseeing and permits day in Leh only. For Srinagar make a 2 day trip to Pahalgam and a day trip to Gulmarg lus a day in Srinagar.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • noman hasan says:

          thank u sir,
          I will surely share my experience regargind d trip after coming back..
          thank u,,

        • All the very best for the trip Noman.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

      • noman hasan says:

        here sir i would like to ask one more query.
        Actually v all people r going for the first time to srinagar & leh.
        Is thr any requirment to hire a local tourist guide over thr in srinagar & leh or its any of nearby sights like gulmarg & pehalgam?
        if yes then approx hw much they cost per day. if u hv contact of any good person ovr thr thn plz share it…

        • Hi Noman,

          You do not need any local guide buddy. You have the plan with you and rest places to visit can be found in this blog in the Ladakh section in various itineraries. Your cab guy whom you will hire will be the best guide for you. So no need to get any guide.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  85. Mahesh says:

    Itinerary

    31st August 2012
    Mumbai to Leh (Flight) Will reach around 10 AM

    Leh Local Sight Seeing + Inner Line Permits
    Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Changspa Road

    1st Sept 2012
    Leh – Excursion to Alchi Return to Leh
    Likir, Magnetic Hill, Hall of Fame, Confluence of Indus & Zanskar River

    2nd
    Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
    Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
    Overnight at Leh

    3rd
    Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder

    4th
    Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh

    5th
    Leh – Kargil via Lamayuru Overnight at Kargil

    6th
    Kargil Sonamarg Srinagar (Stay at Dal Lake)
    Srinagar via Drass

    7th
    Srinagar Overnight in Srinagar
    Shankaracharya Hill, Char Chinar, Nishant Bagh.

    8th September 2012
    Srinagar to Mumbai (Flight) Will leave at 4PM

    1. Can you help improve this itinerary?
    2. What places should we write on the IPL Form for permits?
    3. As we will be arriving directly to Leh from Mumbai(sea-level) how should we take care of Acclimatization?
    4. How should we go about hiring a taxi for Leh Tour and Leh-Kargil-Srinagar?
    5. The plan from 5th to 8th September(Leh-Kargil-Srinagar) doesn’t feel right, can you suggest some places here?

    We are a group of 3 guys in mid 20s.

    Thanks

    • Hi Mahesh,

      It would have been much better if it had been the other way round. But still,

      1. Try to do Nubra Valley first and then a day trip to Pangong Tso. You will feel much more better at Pangong Tso on fifth day than on third day itself.

      2. Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso will be sufficient.

      3. Just take rest for the first day, ONLY REST. In the early evening get out of hotel and have short slow walks. Drink plenty of fluids and do keep the body optimally hydrated as you do not also want to over hydrate yourself.

      4. For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      5. While on the way to Kargil from Leh, you can cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes, Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu. Ahead of Kargil, watch out for Kargil War Memorial.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  86. swapnil k says:

    Sir,
    I will reach there on 5th sep.
    Can you update me about issuing permits for Hanle route ?

    With Thanks
    Swapnil K., Nagpur

    • swapnil k says:

      Also one more querry regarding permit.At the top no sufficient place provided to mension Pangong tso, man merek chushul hanle…….Tsomoriri, nubra. Where to write all these ? Also I hope will get permit for Shyok route ……

      • I do not think you need to mention Shyok Village as it is in Nubra Valley and will be covered and yes, there is no enough space and you can write outside it but try to use tiny letter to accommodate as much as possible in that box. Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, Wari La, Tso Moriri, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Hanle, Nyoma is all that you have to mention on the permit. BTW, shyok route is closed since last updates and I do not think it would have opened up considering so much rains.

        Regards
        Dheeraj

    • Still, they are not issuing. Infact if you read the above comments, I guess by Kunal, you will find that after his so many request he gave him the permit upto Chusul and but not Tsaga which meant he could take an under construction route from Chusul to Mahe which only 4×4 prefer as per army guys. So, might be tough to get but still you can request DC/ADC there.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  87. R Singh says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    In a group of 4 shouls all fill forms or only 1 form is enough for 4 ppl. plz tel

    • Hello R Singh,

      Only one form can be used for all 4 people.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  88. ishan says:

    Hello Dheeraj,

    thank you so much for all the effort that you’re putting in helping everyone out. I really need your help as our flight to leh is on 29th though we’ve booked the return from srinagar i wanted to ask you and give us tips as to utilize best of these days.. dis is what i’ve planned after reading ur post :

    29: day 1 : Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
    – Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
    –For more details on inner line permits process

    30 : day 2 : | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
    – Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
    – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
    – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

    31: Day 3 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
    – Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
    – Overnight at Leh

    1: Day 4 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
    – Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
    – Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

    2: Day 5 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
    – Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
    – Overnight at Leh

    3: Day 6 :
    Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
    – Cover Karzok Monastery
    – Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

    do u think we’d be able to go back to srinagar before 5th sept or we shud take return flight from leh to make the best of everything?

    • Hello Ishan,

      I think you should have done ti reversed but anyways now it seems late. You should not do Khardung La top on the very second day of the trip rather stay in Leh itself and acclimatize there for the second day as well. Only if you guys feel well, then go to Nubra Valley. I do not think you have time to visit Tso Moriri so better drop it and use that extra day to acclimatize in Leh on the second day. You need 2 days to return to Srinagar as well, so you nly have the option to do Pangong Tso as day trip because on 3rd you have to start back to Srinagar to reach there before 5th Sept.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  89. Natalie says:

    Hi Dheeraj, thanks a lot for your blog and all the information! I was in Ladakh in 2005 so it is very useful to get uptodate! Do you also by any chance have an inner line permit application form for foreigners to download? Thank you in advance. Regards. Natalie

    • Hi Natalie,

      I guess it is applied with the same form even for foreigners, though not 100% sure. But, problem is that there is a rule that foreigners can apply permits in group and through a Travel agent only. So, even if you get the permit form in advance, I do not think you can manage it without Travel agent.

      Sorry for the delayed reply.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  90. pranay says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I am planning to travel to Leh between 25-29 of August.

    Plan is Delhi-Leh-Delhi (Air)

    ay 1) – sightseeing
    of Japness Shanti Stupa, leh palace.
    Day 2) Nubra valley, PM Sightseeing of
    Samstanling monastery & Panamik hot spring overnight stay.
    Day 3) return to Leh en route visit Deskit
    Monastery Hunder Sand Dune, Indian
    Army Hall of fame, Grudwara Pather Saab, Magnetic hill, Sangam Point.

    Day 4) – Excursion to Pongong lake,evening back to leh.

    Day 5 ) leh -delhi (Air)

    i would really appreciate your quick response on the above itenary?

    • Hi Pranay,

      Considering the number of days the plan is OK but just I am a bit concerned about the fact that you will be crossing Khardung La the second day itself and will have a long exerted day, so you might get caught with AMS. Try to increase a day buddy!! If not, then if you feel alright on the second day then only move to Nubra Valley and stay as less as possible at Khardung La pass. If not feeling well, then do not go there rather rest for the day in Leh and do day trip to Khardung La the next day.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  91. kunal says:

    Hello dheeraj bhai…Had a wonderful trip of ladakh… A BIG hanks to u for all your guidance…Ladakh is just amazing….regarding inner line permits on chushul route ,I went to ADC,after a lot of persuading he gave me permits till man merak chusul but he was adamant that he wont give permit till tsaga,so i said to him whats the point in having the permits till chushul only as i want to travel till tsomoriri from pangong.ADC showed me a map and suggested to take the man,merak,chushul -mahe route.To this i told him i have never heard about this route and my driver must also not be aware of it,so next came in my driver in front of the ADC!!!!!! The ADC immediately dialled to the SP of leh asking about the road conditions from chushul to Mahe and the SP responded that the roads were fine…I was escatic that I will travel on some new route. Now On reality grounds…My driver Phunsukh was damn sure that the route was not good,regzin met me just outside ADC office he also said that the route is not good and not done by any one.

    But I had decided that i will take this route and felt how can the ADC and The SP be wrong???

    But then I thought ,what if the route was really bad???? then I will have to come back from chushul to tangste and then to karu route which will make me short by a day!!!!

    So in consultation with my driver we went to a BRO office along the highway near Tangste,there met an official who was incharge of the chushul route,he said he had returned just 3 days ago after inspecting the chushul -mahe route and that it was in pathetic condition!!!!!! only 4*4 vehicles and military trucks are able to cross that road,he suggested not to take that route and moreover said if you get struck then you wont be rescued before 2-3 days as hardly any vehicles take that route….then again went to an ITBP office nearby to check if i can get permit for tsaga,,,but was denied the permission so i enquired about the chushul -mahe route….again this officer also said the same story to me!!!! and he informed that the road was still under construction its a 77km road and only 55 km is constructed rest of the part is kaccha and has a lot of snow melted and huge stones.So finally i took the karu upshi route.

    Moral of the story is ,Please dont follow the ADC blindly also do the reality check and know the facts…Thank you

    • Hi Kunal,

      As said earlier, thanks a ton for sharing this valuable information. It will surely help decide others. Yes, those routes are still in the making and you should not take that route unless you are on 4×4 and not sure why they have stopped the permits to such an extent that even after pleading so much and showing genuine interest they are not issuing it. You will not believe that one of the clerk said you do not need any permit for this route and you can go along but I knew he did not know anything about the route. So, in ant writing I mentioned those places and told him that I will go to DC/ADC to talk to if required and asked him to take money and continue with his job. So, one shall keep doing reallity check every other turn/post you see on such obsolete roads/routes. I hope a lot of people learn from this experience. Thanks again for sharing it!!

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • swapnil k says:

        Is it possible over bike …? Route seems to be really short cut,
        ADC k bat me dum hai !
        ;)

        • Do not attempt it as the route is under construction and if you get stuck alone there, then you are alone for sure and on your own. Help will be very hard to find brother :) … Uski baat mein dum to hai but office mein baid kar sab aasan lagta hai and mind you even the toughest roads are very easy for locals and when they say it is tough or little difficult then better stay away from that route or go with backup.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  92. Swapnil K says:

    hello sir,
    Can v get permits on Saturday/Sunday

    • Hi Swapnil,

      You can get permit on Saturday if it is not a second Saturday or any other local or national holiday. You cannot get permit on Sunday.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

    • swapnil k says:

      Sir,

      Many more thanks for replying every single query till date.
      (Hope I will not not trouble you more in future ;) )
      Information provided by you & quick replies were really helpful for planning my tour to Ladakh (first time).
      I will be there from 5th to 20th Sep,12. I am sure after going through all your informations I will be having safe & colorful journey :)

      I really had nice time reading your all blogs :) All were wonderful. Wish you great future ahead & your life full of achievements in all aspects.

      Have a pictorious tour of Zanskar ! TC

      Thanks & Regards
      Swapnil Kotpalliwar

      • Hi Swapnil,

        This is awesome!! Could not ask for a better start for the day… Thanks buddy for much appreciation and glad that me and my blog was helpful for you planning the trip and I must say you should share your wonderful and colorful experience as guest post on my blog too once you are back in town and hope that you will keep coming back to blog for any info. or reading at least some travelogues of mine ;)

        Have a rocking trip!!

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

  93. Somesh says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    As per our phone conversation(on reference of Vishal Dwivedi), I have sent an email on Tuesday but I am not sure you have received my mail. I might have sent it on wrong email id.
    Anyways, could you please send me contact info of some travel agents to get in advance the Inner line permits for Leh.

    We have decided the following route (if possible and roads are not blocked)
    Leh – Nubra Valley (till Turtuk) – Pangong Tso Lake (via Wari La) – Tso Moriri Lake (via Chusul) – Tso Kar Lake – Leh

    I think we need permits for all the below places for 7-8 days:
    1. Nubra valley (hope it covers Khardunga La, Panamik, Sumur, Diskit, Hunder)
    2. Turtuk
    3. Siachen Base Camp
    4. Agam
    5. Wari La
    6. Chang La
    7. Shyok
    8. Pangong Tso Lake (hope it covers till Spangmik village)
    9. Man
    10. Merak
    11. Chusul (hope it includes Chusul war memorial)
    12. Tsaga
    13. Loma
    14. Nyoma
    15. Mahe
    16. Chumathang
    17. Hanle
    18. Tso Moriri Lake
    19. Tso Kar
    20. Dah village
    21. Hanu village
    22. Batalik

    Do we have to mention all the above places on our permit as per our route OR can some of the above places need not be required to be mentioned on permit?

    If we would not be able to follow the above route and we have to start and come back to Leh each time for Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso-Moriri, then do we have to mention any other place in between on Permit?
    Leh-Nubra- Leh
    Leh-Pangong Tso-Leh
    Leh-Tso Moriri-Leh

    I believe that we do not need permits for Nimmu, Alchi, Likir, Lamayuru, Kargil, Zanskar valley (Rangdum, Padum etc). Please confirm.

    Thanks a lot for your help.

    Regards,
    Somesh Tayal

    • Hi Somesh,

      You need to write following: Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Wari La, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle, Tso Moriri. If oginto Dha Hanu Villages, then write them as well, if going to Batalik then write it as well. Rest you do not need to write.

      The permits to Man – Merak – Chusul or remote Changthang routes including Marsimik La and Wari La are still not being given by DC office in Leh, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only.

      In second case just write: Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri. Yes, you do not need permits for Sham Valley and Zanskar.

      You can get in touch with Hotel Shaynam: 01982252345, 09419178484 and Shanti Guest House: +91-1982-253084, +91-1982-250023, +91-9419178760, +91-9419888833, +91-9906982118 to get the permits. Please keep in mind that chances of getting Changthang permit via Travel agent or any hotel is more slimmer.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  94. Dibyendu Chowdhury says:

    Hello Mr. Dheeraj

    I am planning to visit Leh via Srinagar-Leh route. Will it be ok to travel with my 20m old child? If yes, then is any ID required for her to obtain the passes to visit the places from Leh?
    Waiting for ur reply

    • hi Dibyendu,

      Well, you do not need any permit for such a small child and even if the permit would be required, then you will not need the ID proof. But, for safer side, cary the birth certificate copy with you if in worst case they ask for it. Also, brother, please take extreme care of your child and monitor the well being constantly. In any day, you feel he/she is feeling irritated, having nausea try not to go anywhere but rest or possibly descend from that altitude to lower regions. Though Srinagar – Leh Highway will help you increase the height in gradual manner but still since, such a small child cannot explain the uneasiness at his own, so keep an eye on him/her all the time. Do keep your bodies hydrated (NOT Over-Hydrated) and avoid any exertion, jumping around for first few days.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  95. Dheeraj Sharma, thx a lot for what you did my friend :)

    I’m Tinku from Bangladesh. Live in Dhaka. Planing to visit and photograph and make a Documentary on ‘how to go Leh from Dhaka. Hope you can help me a lot.

    Here You can see my videos.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/banglarpothe?feature=mhee

    Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tinkutraveler

    tinkutraveler@gmail still my email address :)

    hope i see you :)

  96. Kunal Sanghavi says:

    Hello Dheeraj bhai,

    Sirji,If I take the traditional route from leh to tsomoriri,tso kar and Hanle then which places should I write on the permits?????

    Thanks a lot for all your advices…..

    • Hey Kunal,

      In order to take traditional route to Hanle from Leh, you need to mention Loma, Nyoma, Hanle. For Tso Moriri, mention Tso Morri and for Pangong Tso mention Pangong Tso. Then for Nubra Valley – mention nubra Valley and if going to Turtuk then mention Turtuk as well.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  97. Vikas Bhagat says:

    Mr. Dheeraj,
    After reading the complete details on Inner Line Permits, I think I wont be able to go to Tso Moriri Lake directly from Sarchu, I think I have to go to Leh first, take the permit & then back to Sarchu to Korzok & Tso Moriri for our Trekking, if m wrong anywere or u feel that our Initiary is wrong. ….Sir can u please suggest me…!!

  98. kunal sanghavi says:

    Dheeraj bhai,
    My plan is to straight away head to pangog from diskit the what should i write on my permit??? and if i go to hanle and tsomoriri then which all places need to be mentioned in the permit…please reply sson as i am leaving in a couple of days..HAS the DC started approving permits from pangong to tsomoriri???

    Thanks a TOn in advance…

    • Hello Kunal,

      Well, I have no idea if the permits have been resumed but in order to do Nubra to Pangong Tso, you need to write Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Wari La on the permit form. And, in order to do Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, you need to mention Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Hanle – Nyoma – Tso Moriri. Do not miss anyone else you will be sent back, highly likely. They are extremely strict in that region

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  99. rakesh rawat says:

    hi, We group of 4 with one infant are visiting leh on 10/Aug/2012 for 5 days, please suggest how can i get inner line permit for infant as he is not having any ID proof…please guide on this…

    • Hi Rakesh,

      You do not need any permit for infant, even if in the worst case the clerk asks for it OR if I am mistaken, just carry the birth certificate with you. I do not think it will be required 99% :)

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  100. yogie says:

    Sorry I miss one point.

    We are two travelling together.
    Can we get the ILP on our own or do we have to go through a travel agency ? Thanks

    Yogie

    • Hi Yogie,

      Being foreigners you will have to go through the Travel agent as I guess there is a minimum requirement of 4 in a group and that too through some travel agent/hotel for foreigners.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  101. yogie says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the detailed guidelines on getting ILP.

    I wish to visit Nubra Valley, Tso Moriri and Pangon Tso using Leh as a hub. As we have to return to Leh after visiting each place, it is most likely that we can’t finish the three places within 7 days. What can we do ? Apply two IPL at the same time or apply another one when the first one expired ?
    We are holding foreign passports.

    Thanks for your advice.

    Regards,

    Yogie

    • Hi Yogie,

      Okies, so you do not have any choice than to return back to Leh because you will not be allowed on any non-traditional routes in Ladakh. All traditional routes starts from Leh itself. I suppose you are foreigners, and if not then you have validity of 3 weeks not 1.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  102. Sanjiv Sawhney says:

    Just returned from Manali – Leh – Srinagar trip, Pangong, Nubra Valley. All the roads were open and weather was fabulous. We stayed at Hotel Thongsal at Leh. It was quite comfortable with 24hrs electricity and hot water. Mr Sonam Rinchen at hotel even arranged our permits in advance. Complimentary wifi was quite handy for skyping back home.

    • Hey Sanjiv, that’s awesome. Glad to read that you enjoyed your trip to fullest. Please try and share few pictures with us too at FB page may be :)

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  103. Partha says:

    Hi Dheeraj,
    Need your views once again:)
    1. A Jispa travel agent told me that PAN cards may not be accepted as ID Proof. Is this true?
    2. Photocopies of ID Proofs need to be self attested, or by gazetted officers?
    3. What is the scope and availablity of ATMs in Manali, on Manali-Leh Highway and Ladakh?
    Thanks!!

    • Hello Partha,

      1. Yes, this might be true because recently PAN card is not being accepted by many GOVT. Departments but I am not 100% sure because I also believe that they should.
      2. Though they do not need attested one, but you can have them self-attested at least.
      3. In Leh there 4-5 ATMs now but no where else in Ladakh, in Manali they have couple of ATMs, in Keylong again I guess there is one and rest of the Manali – Leh Highway do not have any. It is better that you carry money from Manali and do not rely on Keylong one.

      Regards
      Dheeraj sharma

      • Partha says:

        Thanks again! Your assistance is one of the most valuable aid for all the visitors.

        • All the best for your trip Partha :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Partha Mitra says:

          Hi Dheeraj,
          Finally we are back from a mesmerizing trip to Ladakh. Missed out Tso Moriri, though. Anyways seems like should visit again, as so much of beauty can’t be absorbed in a single trip.
          Thanks to you for everything, but a special thanks for your info on Inner Line Permits – we did all documentation beforehand in Delhi, and it took merely ~10 mins to get the permits:).

        • This is so nice to hear buddy, Cheers!! Do share some of the lovely pictures at DOW FB Page :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  104. ash says:

    Hi Deeraj,
    what a superb post! I need some assistance from you, regarding my trip to North India.
    I and 2 my friends are heading to Leh via Srinagar. Guess, by ur recommendation, its a good start to travel. My concern, is i am a foreigner, while my 2 friends are Indians nationality. Will i have a problem travelling with my friends in Leh(Ladakh)? Will i get the ILP easily, even though my 2 friends are locals while i am a foreigner, kindly advise.
    2ndly, we intend to rent a 4×4 vehicle from Srinagar, and self drive to Leh. My question is will the car rental company allow to leave the car in Leh or do we have to return to Srinagar to return the car, as we intend to fly from Leh to Delhi, kindly advise.
    Is 12 days enough for us to self drive from Srinagar to Leh? If possible can draw up an itinerary for us. Much thanks!

    • Hello Ash,

      1. You will not have any trouble exploring the tourist destination of Ladakh following traditional routes. You will be able to get the permits done, just ask some local travel agent to get it done for you. I am sure, it would be very much trivial.
      2. Nopes, you cannot get an self-drive car from Srinagar at least and some well known rental firm have stopped giving cars on rent for Ladakh, at least as per what I read few weeks back. You have to hire a local taxi and may be ask the driver to let you drive. Also, you will need to hire one taxi from Srinagar that will take you to Leh and then again hire another local taxi in Leh for rest of the days in Ladakh.

      For 12 days, you might like to follow an itinerary like below:

      Day 1 | Reach Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 2 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 3 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      –For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 6 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 7 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 8 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 10 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 11 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 12 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 13 | Fly back

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ash says:

        Hi Dheeraj,
        thanks for taking the time to reply to me, and guide me through my coming adventures in North India.
        have another query for you, i did browse some articles saying if ur group is less than 4 people, you have to travel with a tour operator. Is that true? Can we just go and visit tourist places in Leh by ourselves, 3 of us, w/o tour operator? If we visit the ILP tour places, with only 3 of us, are they gonna send us back, just because minimum in a group is 4, and max is 20? very confused…kindly advise bro…super thanks!

        • Hello Ash,

          The condition for tour operator is just to get the permits for foreigners and won’t be applicable for your other two friends. The local tour operator would charge some money from you and place your name in already existing group with him for those dates and get you the copy of that permit which you can keep with you. Once, you get the permits, you can travel on your wish. Your other two friends can apply for separate permit issued for Indians or ask that local agent to place their names as well in that group if possible (m not sure on this one). So, it wont be a big issue once you are in Leh.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • abhishek says:

          this is very nice Dheeraj.Thanks for such an early reply.
          Also if you dont mind can i have your number.In case I need some indo i would definetly like to call you.

          Sorry for asking if you can’t share.In any case thanks again.

        • Great!! I have emailed my number to you. do check your spam, if you do not have any email from my side.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

        • ash says:

          Hi Dheeraj,
          thank you for all your patience in answering my questions. I have a clearer picture now of what to expect and my course of actions. I have a couple of queries for you, hope you can clear my doubts.
          1) We intend to pitch our tents at Panggong Tso. Will it be allowed? if not, can you recommend me the nearest town to spend the night, as we do not plan to waste time to return to Leh.
          2) we intend to move on from Panggong Tso to Tso Morriri by traditional route, since im a foreigner, not allowed to go thru Man-Merak route, so whic parts of area we can camp by the river banks? if not the nearest town to spend the night?
          3) if we camp by the lake banks, will it be safe at night, in terms of wild dogs, bandits etc
          Hope i can widen my picture more of Leh, with ur guidance and advice. Thank you Dheeraj.

        • Hello Ash,

          1. Yes, you can pitch the tents near the lake at Pangong Tso. Just ask gently for the permission by near by camping site. Otherwise, you can always go to Lukung or Spangmik on the other end.

          2. Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri, can be managed by long drive of about 12 Hrs starting early morning from Pangong Tso. If you are able to reach Tso Moriri, you can stay at Korzok Village. You are not allowed to pitch tents near Tso Moriri, being part of wetland reserve project. Otherwise, Chumathang would be ideal to spend the night along side Indus river near Hot Springs.

          3. Since, other camping sites would be around it shall be safe enough anywhere at Korzok, Lukung and Spangmik. At Chumathang, it will be nice to stay near Hot Springs where there is a dhabha/local food shop run by a locale.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • ash says:

          Hi Dheeraj,
          Excellent bro, thanks once again for your patience and guidance, for my trip to the North. Will holla you, if i need more tips. if you don’t mind, can pm me your contact number & prolly email add as well, thru my email address given, just in case….once again, thank you very much bro!

        • All the best buddy for your wonderful trip to Ladakh… I have emailed you my contact.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

      • abhishek says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        This post of yours is really a gud one.I am also planning for a trip from delhi via srinagar leh manali delhi.
        I am planning for a 10 days trip.Please suggest if the above post for ASH holds good for me as well.
        10 days includes the travelling time also.

        Waiting for your response.

        Thanks & Regards
        Abhishek

        • Hello Abhishek,

          They are flying out of Leh and you guys wanna do road trip to Manali. So, you might have to follow the below plan:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
          — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

          Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
          — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
          — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
          – Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
          – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          – Day trip to Pangong Tso
          – Overnight at Leh

          Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
          — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
          — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

          Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Day 10 | Manali – Delhi
          — Reach home

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

      • Chris Grose says:

        Hi Dheeraj
        What a great website and loads of info.

        I plan to cycle Manali-Leh via Tso Kar/Tso Moriri and Mahe Bridge next July. YOur website suggests that this is not possible as innerline permits for Tso Moriri are only available in Leh. Is this correct?

        The solution would be to undertake the trip from Leh to Manali instead. Presumeably there will be no problems getting permits in Leh forn this?

        Thanks and keep up the great website.
        REgards
        Chris

        • Hello Chris,

          Thanks alot. Glad you liked the info. present on the blog and found it useful.

          Yes, you are correct that you cannot ride to Tso Moriri via Tso Kar from Manali – Leh highway because you will need permit for the same. Even if you get the permits before hand through fax or email it is not advisable enough to ride to Tso Moriri and sleep there being so high in altitude and extreme chances of hitting with Acute Mountain Sickness. So, visit Leh first, relax for few days over there within Ladakh then finally ride it towards Tso Moriri via Chumathang and Mahe Bridge and may be exit via Tso Kar towards Manali – Leh Highway back.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you need any further details or have any queries.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

    • Karan Singh says:

      hey dhiraj…
      i must say your blog is the most informative and the updated one.
      nways now for my query. i am travelling from delhi to leh by road from 23rd to 31st july. i am travelling by my own private car and there are 5 of us. we are taking manali- leh route. i had made a itinerary for our trip but ILP has spoiled all of it.. i will reach leh on 25th evening and have to reach back to delhi on 1st august. i plan to visit NUbra velley, pangong LAke. tso morari lake, Grd> pathar Sahib. i dont know if its possible with the limited days i have, so was hoping if you could make an itinerary for me too. i have some other queries which i am numbering and go as follows;
      !) we plan to camp on both of the nights at the lake area. do one need extra permission for it?

      2) which route should i take from Pangong LAke to Tso morari LAke?

      3) As we are bringing our own car, and its not chauffer driven should i hire a driver from manali for leh route.as i have heard the road is quite bad uphill. we will be bringing Qualis.

      4) its also come to my notice that locals dont allow you to drive your car there, instead they ask you to hire a cab. how true is that?

      5)i did my research but could not find a local agent. since you know the place so well. i was hoping if you could give us a no and name of any agent who could help us to get local permit there. (i have downloaded the form from your link . so i can fax or mail to him )

      6) if i mentioned in my form that i plan to visit the above said areas. will that be sufficient or do i need to write each name seperately like the town i will be crossing through to visit that area.

      thankyou very much in appreciation. looking forward to hear from you.

      • Hello Karan,

        You have only 9 days and out which at least 6 days would be required to travel from Delhi – Leh – Delhi via Manali. In three days left with you, you cannot cover both lakes, nubra valley and sham valley including the permits. You are going by your own car and not sure, if it would be possible for you to get the permits from Manali as well to travel on Manali – Rohtang Pass road on the same day :( … Still, I have mentioned below a 9 day tour, which you might like.

        1. No you do not need any permissions for it. You can camp at Pangong Tso. Camping at Tso moriri is restricted and you cannot campt at that lake. However, you can camp near where others have placed there camps. just as for gently permission from them.

        2. As per itinerary, you cannot visit both lakes.

        3. It is fine I guess.

        4. It is false. You can drive your own car but not the taxi number place one. As long as it is white number plate, you can drive it.

        5. Check with Hotel Shaynam or Shanti Guest House. Contact mentioned in the accommodation series linked here

        6. Nopes, just mention the place you want to visit, in this case. Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso.

        Here is the itinerary:

        Day 1 | Delhi – Manali/Solang Valley
        — Better stay at Solang Valley and avoid Manali as sleeping at Solang Valley does help in acclimatization
        — If going by own car, get the permit made in advance to drive on Manali – Rohtang Pass road through hotel/travel agent in Manali
        — Overnight at Manali/Solang Valley

        Day 2 | Manali/Solang Valley – Keylong/Jispa
        — It is always better to stay either at Keylong/Jispa so that you do not feel sick or hit by AMS.
        — Avoid sleeping at Sarchu at any cost while going to Leh from Manali because your body will not be acclimatized by the time you reach there.
        — I prefer staying at Jispa more because Keylong gives the feeling of a town while Jispa is more closer to nature having Bhaga river running just aside the Manali – Leh Highway at Jispa.
        — Overnight at Keylong/Jispa

        Day 3 | Keylong/Jispa – Leh
        — Leave Keylong/Jispa early next morning, say by 4/5 AM types, so that you reach Leh in the evening.
        — Overnight at Leh

        Day 4 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
        — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
        — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
        — Overnight at Leh
        — You can visit Magnetic Hills and Gurudwara Pather Sahib on this day

        Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
        — Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
        — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
        — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

        Day 6 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
        — Day trip to Pangong Tso
        — Overnight at Leh

        Day 7 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
        — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
        — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

        Day 8 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
        — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
        — Overnight at Manali

        Day 9 | Manali – Delhi

        I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

  105. jiggaw says:

    sir my plan is to take taxi from manali to leh with a night halt in sarchu….since we are only 2 people pls advice how to get leh regn taxi from manali as they will be cheaper than manali taxis. do u have any such drivers number then kindly share…

    • Hello Jiggaw,

      For getting a Leh based taxi to Manali, please read the link here: Cheap private taxi to Leh – Ladakh | A Myth or A Reality?

      Secondly, Avoid sleeping at Sarchu or Pang at any cost while going to Leh from Manali because your body will not be acclimatized by the time you reach there. It is always better to stay either at Keylong/Jispa so that you minimize the chances for falling sick or hit by AMS while going to Leh from Manali. And, then next day carry on the rest of the journey to Leh without sleeping in between anywhere by leaving early in the morning say, by 4-5 AM types. I prefer staying at Jispa more because Keylong gives the feeling of a town while Jispa is more closer to nature having Bhaga river running just aside the Manali – Leh Highway at Jispa. If you are coming back via Manali – Leh, then it should be OK to stay at Sarchu as your body will be acclimatized by that time.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  106. Shakti Saini says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    i want to know which palaces name we have to mention in ILP, if we plane to go given below place.

    Khardungla Pass>Nubra Valley>Diskit>Hundar>Turtok>Rongdo>Darbuk>Tangste>Pangong Tso>chushul>Tso Moriri>hanle>Changthang>Sarchu.

    plz explain, Thanks in advance

    • hello Shakti,

      You need to mention Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Pangong Tso, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga, Loma, Nyoma, Hanle, Tso Moriri for the above mentioned route. Just for your info. the permits to Man – Merak – Chusul or remote Changthang routes including Marsimik La and Wari La are still not being given by DC office in Leh, so keep your fingers crossed and hope for the best if they start issuing the permits by the time you visit. Otherwise, you have to take the traditional routes only.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  107. Swapnil K says:

    Sir,

    Do we need inner line permit for Zanskar valley from leh via Kargil….?

    • Nopes Swapnil. You do not need any permits for Zanskar Valley.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

      • Rahul says:

        Hi Dheeraj, we are five friends planning a tour chandigarh-manali- leh ladakh- pangong lake, tiso morri lake, nubhra velley- kargil- srinagar- jammu- chandigarh. from 3rd august. we are hiring a taxi from chandigarh for 14 days.. can you make a iterney for 14days.. we have 6 days in leh .. do we have to our taxi park there for 6-7 days and we have to hire a local taxi for these days.. please tell me which places we have to mention in inner area permits for pangong, tisso morri and nubhra velly ???

        • Hi Rahul,

          Firstly, I will suggest you that please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way. You can read more reasons on the link here

          You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh. You need to mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri only.

          For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

          For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 10-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

          Check the list of things to carry for Leh – Ladakh or other trip including basic medical kit, clothing, must haves etc. at the link here: List of Things to Carry for Leh – Ladakh trip.

          I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  108. Ankit says:

    Hi Dheeraj, its Ankit again. I hope you are doing pretty good there. Would like to disturb you again with few queries. Our forecasted itinerary is like:

    4th Aug:reaching to Leh from Kargil via Alchi and Lamayuru. I dont think that same day will get the ILP done.

    5th Aug:planning for Nubra valley or Kardunga La which requires ILP.

    6th Aug: Early morning departure from Leh for Delhi.

    I would like to know your expert advice on two points:

    01.) can we get the ILP done well in advance as same day trip will not allow us to do these formalities.

    02.) How about hiring bikes for sightseeing at Nubra or Kardung la. If it is an good option then may I request you to please provide few phone nos for the same.

    • Hi Ankit,

      1. You can get the permits in advance by contacting any local travel agent in Leh or your hotel. They will ask you to fax or email your photo IDs and the required fees they would be charging (Charge about Rs 200 to Rs 250 per person). Once done, they email/fax back your permit which you can make further copies and keep it with you.

      2. It is just a day in Ladakh, so better take taxi and enjoy the place as you have to catch a flight next day and any mechanical failure in bike may result in missing the flight. You can always leave the taxi behind and get the new one to reach back to Leh.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Ankit says:

        Hi Dheeraj, Thanks once again for guiding us through. We have added one more day in Leh and now will leave Leh on 7th Aug. Hence we have two fulldays at Leh to enjoy. May I request you to please provide few agent nos. who can help us in getting ILP arranged at nominal prices?

        • Hi Ankit,

          You can get in touch with any of these hotels below:

          1. 01982252345, 09419178484 – Hotel Shaynam
          2. +91-1982-253403, +91-9622958260 – Asia Guest House
          3. +91-1982-253084, +91-1982-250023, +91-9419178760, +91-9419888833, +91-9906982118 – Shanti Guest House.

          I am sure, they will be able to help you out.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  109. anks rawat says:

    great great great help sir. thanks a very lot.

  110. a jeet says:

    post needs to be updated as there's revised fee structure now. also there's rebate for students having students I card copy personally to be told/handed over to fee clerk. our member paid rs 20/- only against rs 200/- if i am not wrong. thanks

    (pl ignore if found not suitable to post )

    • Thanks alot A Jeet, updated the post above. It was indeed very useful. I have the new form and application letter format as well but somehow my laziness is not allowing me to get those scanned and uploaded here :cry: … Will do the needful over weekend.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  111. Hardeep says:

    Hi Dheeraj, You are really an awesum guy!! Helping all the travellers and with the right info/ approach. Many thanks for such a work. God bless you.

    I am also planning a trip in last week of July. Travelling by public transport from Delhi to Leh and will take a flight back from Leh to Delhi.

    Need ur feedback on our plan. Some of the questions I have are within that.

    -Friday 20 July 2012

    Delhi to Jammu Eve. Train to Jammu

    -Saturday 21 July 2012

    Jammu to Srinagar reach by 12 noon. ..Have lunch .. Start for Srinagar.. Reach Srinagar by nite – Nite Stay in Srinagar

    -Sunday 22 July 2012

    Srinagar to Leh – Shared Taxi to Leh

    -Monday 23 July 2012

    Leh Permits / Local Sight seeing (Which places to go?)

    (Where can we get motobikes? Rates?)

    (Or Taxi/ Theur rates?)

    (We are 2 of us and plan to take a bike? Thou we have not done long distance before however we r comfortable)- what do u suggest taking bike or Taxi?

    (Shall we go to Nubra Valley first or to the Pangong Lake first?)

    -Tuesday 24 July 2012

    Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley – Leh

    (Is it poosible to do it in 1 day?) If not places to stay in Nubra Valley?)

    -Wednesday 25 July 2012

    Leh – Karu – Shakti – Chang La – Durbuk – Tangste – Pangong Tso

    (Is it poosible to do it in 1 day? What is advisable?) If not in 1 day, then places to stay in Pangong?)

    -Thursday 26 July 2012

    Leh & Around Back from Pangong and Rest in Leh- Nite stay in Hotel

    -Friday 27 July 2012 – Buffer Day

    -Saturday 28 July 2012

    White water rafting in Indus River

    -Sunday 29 July 2012

    Leh to Delhi by Morning Flight

    Pls help/ Kindly Suggest.

    ===========

    • Hello Hardeep,

      You have 6 days with you once you reach Leh. So, you can do it like below in those 6 days:

      Day 1 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link : http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/inner-line-per
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 2 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 3 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      – Day trip to Pangong Tso
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Rafting Day

      Day 6 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey, Stakna and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Now, you can also do two day trip to Pangong Tso on Day 4 and Day 5 and do rafting on the last day.

      Also, you can rent bikes in Leh and Fort Road in Leh is full of such shops that rent bikes. Depending upon the condition, model, make and tourist rush you can get bikes starting from Rs 600 to Rs 1200.

      But, I will suggest you shared taxis. Read below.

      Private taxis are very costly in Leh but you will be able to find the shared taxi without much fuss at all. There are lots of flyers which people put at cafes, dine-ins, restaurants, travel agent desks/shops/whiteboards wanting to share the taxis for different trips within Ladakh. Even travel agent organize such shared taxis trip as well but charge a little higher about Rs 200-300 more than it would ideally cost. So, in worst case you can always go back to them and book a seat for yourself. Gelling up with people in Ladakh is more or less easy because many people travel solo and look forward to meet new people and share cultural thoughts and values over the trip. No where else in the world you will find more smiling and helpful people as Ladakhis are :)

      I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you need more info or have any doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  112. jiggaw says:

    hi.. we are two guys and our plan is:

    Day 1 arrive at manali from delhi

    Day2 : leave manali for Leh in Haimachal tourism bus/may try for cabs als0o

    Day 3: arrive at Leh by eve

    Day 4: local sightseeing /innerline permit

    Day 5: Nubra valley with turtuk

    Day 6th Back to leh by eve

    Day 7th Pyongyong lake and back

    Day 8th fly to delhi

    pls suggest what will be car hiring cost for nubra and pyongyong lake and what is decen place to stay in hunder/turtuk…

    Regards

    • Hello Jigsaw,

      Itinerary is fine buddy. For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • jiggaw says:

        Dheeraji thanks for your reply, need to know that while returing from turtuk can we straight away go to pyongyong lake instead of going to leh…how much is the time taken? and how is the route? it will be mid aug

        • Hello Jiggaw,

          From deskit to Pangong Tso via Wari La would take about 10-11 Hrs and then Turtuk to Deskit is I think about 90 KMs, if I remember correctly. Add a bout 3 HRs more. So, it will be a long long day with least sightseeing inbetween. Route the will be almost isolated once you start for Wari La all the way upto Sakit village where it meets the traditional route of Pangong Tso from Leh via Chang La. So, on that isolated stretch help will be hard to find.

          There is another route via Shyok village that is shorter and take about 6-7 Hrs but that is more isolated and dangerous with many landslide prone areas and if water crossings will be in flow then hard to negotiate as well.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

  113. ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

    we 2 adults 1 child like to travel leh by 18th of april 2013,we like to stay for 6 to 7 nights it is possible to see places like pangong lake,nubra valley ,khardungla pass,alchi,& leh locals by own or through travel agency pls give suggestions & itenary for us

    • Hello Anand,

      In April the conditions and pretty cold and challenging. Roads to Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso also gets closed frequently due to snow fall. And above all Pangong Tso will be frozen. Do you still want to go in April?

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

        yes sir is it possible to reach pangong lake and others or roads will be blocked

        • Hello Anand,

          They do keep them open throughout the year but if there is snowfall in recent days when your are traveling then the road will be closed. Chances of AMS problems by stucking in Jams at both Khardung La and Chang La are very high. In fact I visited in April last week only this year and luckily for use all the time snowfall was two days behind and by the time we reached the passes, they were made claer but we had torrid time at Khardung La. We saw many not able to make it to Pangong Tso and Nubra Valley due to road closure and all…

          I hope this helps. Please let me know in case you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

          sharma sir i heard that we cant get good food by april is it true

        • Hello Anand,

          Yes, food is limited in April as it is about when the roads had to open but it does not mean that you do not get the food. In Leh, you will be able to find very decent food especially at Lamayuru and Gesmo restaurants.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • ANAND K, TAMILNADU says:

          sharmaji, is it possible to make trip by our own or we must do with travel agent for ladakh trip

        • All the information you will need to make a Ladakh trip, will be available in the Ladakh section of my blog. Since, you have lots of time you can go through the articles and plan it best way. If anything you could not find in the articles, just shoot an email to me or write comment and I would be more than happy to assist you in all the required planning. There is no need for any travel agent in between ;)

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  114. Robin Chaudhary says:

    Hi Dheeraj, you are doing a nice work. Appreciations.

    I am planning to visit leh DURING LAST HALF OF JULY-2012.We have only 10 DAYS, starting our jourey from Delhi.

    Could you please suggest me the ltinerary for 10 days(Delhi-LEH-DELHI).

    We ll use our car which is HONDA JAZZ(HATCHBACK), Is it ok to use hatchback on this route.

    Weather around these days

    Where can we find the accomodations,petrol pump(AS I ve heard that duriang a patch of 500 kms ,no petrol pump)

    Thanks in adavance :)

    Regards

    Robin

    • Helo Robin,

      For hatchback/sedan taking on Manali – Leh Highway and Ladakh, I will say:

      The roads may be stabilized now but you will need to face few tough challenges on the route. The hatchback/sedan will increase the level of every challenge even further. My suggestion will be to go via Srinagar route which is opened for light vehicles earlier (most likely) and will be stabilized by then. It will help you feel comfortable with the driving, provide more acclimatization and then once you have done the local Leh Ladakh come back via Manali side. Secondly, since you are in hatch/sedan back then you need to drive with extra care as well. There will be some sections on the Manali – Leh highway in which you might need to sacrifice some scratches on the underbelly. Just make sure you do not bump the engine sump (know it before where it is placed in your car). You need to protect it all around the trip. Thirdly, whenever in doubt do not rush into the section rather park aside and feel the section with your foot, see how other vehicles are crossing it and make a planned route in your mind to cross that section. At the very least do carry Mseal, quick fix, funnel, jerry cans and towing rope with you all the time.

      Also, I will strongly suggest that you go through and read my series on Ladakh Self Drive tips at the links below:

      7 Useful Tips for a Self Drive to Leh – Ladakh, Routes and Road Conditions In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips, Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

      Now regarding the 10 day plan, you can do it like:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Leh
      – Head for Nubra Valley very early in the day and come back by late evening after visiting Deskit. If you have time go little further and see Hunder sand dunes too
      – On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      – Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      – Day trip to Pangong Tso
      – Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 10 | Manali – Delhi

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  115. kirti kumar tiwari says:

    hello mr sharma, can we use our own scorpio for nubra velly,pangang tso,tso moriri & tso kar.scopio is new and pvt. passing.

  116. Akshat Sharma says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    You are quite an expert in leh :-)

    I have visited once and have an idea about where to visit.

    Clueless on two issues-

    1. Requirement of room heaters during July?

    2. How to get hold of a taxi with whom I can coordinate in advance for pick up, sightseeing(6 days) and drop to the airport?

    Will be highly obliged,

    Akshat Sharma

    • Hello Akshat,

      Thanks buddy.

      1. There won't be any requirements for that as I was in quite cold conditions in April and we didn't feel the need of it.
      2. For the current leh – ladakh taxi union rate list 2012-13 including the contacts of some reliable taxi drivers within Leh – Ladakh, check the link here. You can get about 12-15% of discount by directly getting in touch with drivers and of course, talking in person rather on phone always help in bargaining more.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  117. manmohan says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    we are traveling to leh in July from Chandigarh via local cab he. We have heard that only local leh taxis are allowed for local sigh seeing and other taxis are allowed only for drop. the same has been confirmed by two tour operators in manali. can you please let us know whether that is true.

    • Hi Manmohan,

      Yes, true. Taxis outside Ladakh are not allowed to do any sighseeing within Leh – Ladakh. You can use them from drop-in and take-away modes only. So, the taxi you are hiring locally must have private number plate otherwise you will have to again hire a taxi within Ladakh and pay for your local taxi without using it.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  118. rajeev kr says:

    dear, dheeraj please tell me how many palaces in leh which required inner line permit. what is its name and how to fill in the form is there ant short foam. and how many person can be mentioned in one permit.

    • Hi Rajeev,

      There is no limit AFAIK for the number of persons to be listed. There are lots of places where permits are required but for conventional routes you just need to mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri on the permit if you plan to visit these places. There is sample attached filled form in this article, please download and fill it accordingly. I hope you have gone through the article above.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • RAJESH SHARMA says:

        Hello Dheeraj,

        Is Adhar Card would be accepted as a proof for identity for making inner line permit?

        • Hi Rajesh,

          If it is a valid national photo id proof then it will be accepted otherwise not.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

    • Sachin Nair says:

      Hi Dheeraj – Good Morning.. I have read your above article and I am sure queries which we ask is already covered in the topic. Good show indeed!! and keep up the good work…As you have suggested on a query that “There are lots of places where permits are required but for conventional routes you just need to mention Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri on the permit if you plan to visit these places”, my question is what if I mention some more places on the form like “Nubra Valley, Turtuk , Khardung La, Pangang Tso Lake, Tso Moirri Lake,( Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma (for Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri) and Hanle), Dah -Hanu Villages, Hanle, Chusul War Memorial i.e. Changthang” ? Will the form still be accepted?. we will try to travel these places by bikes. IS it feasible?…plan date : will reach leh on 4th june and travel plan from 5th june to 15th june.

      Please advice if any change required.

      • Hi Sachin,

        Very Good Morning buddy!!

        Yes, the conventional routes are only for Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri. For any other place, you need to mention that in the permit. For Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri as mentioned above write only "Man – Merak – Chusul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma", of course including the two lakes. Then, for Hanle and Dha – Hanu villages, again you need to write their names. No need for Chusul War Memorial as it is covered with Chusul.

        Yes, this is very much feasible but just make sure your are OK riding long distances without any roads :) … Also, ensure you are carrying enough spare fuel to cover Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri distance including to-fro from Leh.

        I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

        • Sachin Nair says:

          Thanks much for the update Dheeraj. It means a lot..:)..This would be our first trip to north india however we all are very enthu to have such long, tough and adventurous trip. Looking forward to it.We dont have any specific plan as such as which places mentioned above to travel first. Basically, we only know that we will start our journey from leh and need to be back on leh..:)…and then we will drive back to manali..If you can help us on the navigation from leh to these places as in when and where we should exactly travel from leh to cover the baove places, it would be really helpful and much appreciated!!..:)…any idea how many days, we require to cover these places. 1 more thing, any idea on fuel stations that we can get in between these places?

          Thanks!! in advance..:)

          Have a great day..

        • Hi Sachin,

          I will you to check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh. This will give you an idea on how to go about these places an sketch a rough plan. We can discuss it from there on then.

          Regarding fuel availability, check the article linke here: Fuel Availability In Leh – Ladakh | Ladakh Self Drive Tips

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  119. sangeeta says:

    Hi Dheeraj, the information you provide is incredible and you reply with all the patience- which is highly appreciated. Okay my request is that we 4 women want to visit Ladakh starting 10th June onwards. We are taking a train from Mumbai to Jammu tawi and want to return via manali.

    1.Can you work out an itenary for us starting 9th June till we reach delhi to depart on 23rd June. Please can you also work out a rough estimate of the budget.

    2. We want no fancy hotels and okay with budget of Rs 500 per head (means room tariff of 1000 on twin sharing).

    3.Places we would like to visit are: a couple of monasteries, Nubra via Khardungla, pangong lake, Tso moriri, (any any more you suggest).

    4. I also read that there is an international film festive. Will that affect hotel availability.

    5. Do hotel rooms require room heaters during this period.

    6. We would like one- day halt in HP and reach Delhi on 23rd morning.

    Please can you assist as always.

    Sangeeta

    • Hi Sangeeta,

      Thanks alot, but replying to all does delay sometimes for some :) … Coming to your queries,

      1. As I see you have about 14 days ex Delhi? In such a case, I will advice the plan mentioned below. For all bout estimating the budget, I will suggets you read: How to calculate cost or budget for Leh – Ladakh trip

      2. For accommodation, check the nice, preferred list of accommodation options in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well in the series of articles starting on the link here

      3. Check the plan below :)

      4. A little bit but mostly high tariff ones will be affected.

      5. Some can provide and some can't. You may no need it in June.

      6. Guess too much in little number of days ;)

      Your Ladakh plan for 14 days ex. Delhi below:

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link : http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/inner-line-per
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      — Day trip to Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      DO NOT FORGET to Carry spare fuel for about 550 KMs including your tankful
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 11 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 12 | Manali – Delhi
      — Return home

      Day 13 + 14 | Buffer days to be kept incase of road closure due to landslides or snowfall or perhaps you want to enjoy more. Use them in Himachal or anywhere you like

      Additional Points:
      1. Instead of coming back to Leh from Nubra Valley, you can head towards Pangong Tso via Wari La route. If you are riding then you need to carry sufficient fuel for it. The additional day could be rest day at Leh where you can do Sham Valley tour or some shopping in Leh. Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, Gurudwara Pather Sahib

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Pankaj Choudhary says:

        Hi Dheeraj, M planing form Delhi to Srinagar to Leh Ladakh Coming Month 9 of june 2012, But I am confused, we Are 6 Person, coming for own personal SUV, So please tell that, m able to cross srinagar to leh from or personal SUV, After can we pass through srinagar to Manali or we need to take any permission for, i came to know about that we can do srinagar to manali by our SUV, Some one tell me that U need permission for leh to manali, so plz tell me it is possible to go srinagar to leh and leh to manali, Plz help me out……….???

        • Hi Pankaj,

          You do not need any permission if you travel in the direction Delhi -> Srinagar -> Leh -> Manali -> Delhi. Vehicles outside Himachal are required to get permits to travel from Manali side to Rohtang Pass but those vehicles if coming from Rohtang Pass side or Leh side, do not need any kind of permit.

          But, yes of course in Ladakh to visit places like Khardung La, Tso Moriri, Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley etc. you need permit for yourself as person not for your vehicle. For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Pankaj choudhary says:

          Thanks Dheeraj Sir, for the Suggestion, As According to ur words, m finally follow the same route as u said, is it possible the trip in 10 days, For 10 days trip plz suggest route guide line with maximun distance i have to cover in a day…….Plz…?

        • Hi Pankaj,

          For 10 days, I will suggest something like below:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Srinagar
          — Fly to Srinagar if you are not self driving because it will almost cost the same and help you save one day plus fatigue of traveling unnecessary in plains or boring hills for 2 days
          — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
          — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
          — Overnight at Srinagar

          Day 2 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
          — Enjoy the vistas enroute
          — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
          — Overnight at Kargil

          Day 3 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
          — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
          — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Nimmu
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

          Day 6 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 7 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          — Day trip to Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 8 | Leh – Taglang La – Pang – Sarchu
          — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
          — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

          Day 9 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
          — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
          — Overnight at Manali

          Day 10 | Manali – Delhi

          Note: No buffer days for Ladakh trip mostly many a times means trouble, so do plan a day or two as buffer apart from these 10 days.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Pankaj Choudhary says:

          thanks again Dheeraj Sir for instant Rply.

          Hello Dheeraj Ji, How U, One more Query for u, is their any way to Leh Ladakh via Manali by OUR PERSONAL CAR (Not a taxi or tourist Reg. No), if it is so please tell How..?

          i Came to know about that taking permission by Manali SDM office or Manali DC. u can go throw by this route, if u you know about this anything plz give direction…?

        • Hi Pankaj,

          There is no other way via Manali to Ladakh. You have to go via Manali only. I guess the Manali – Leh highway has been throw open officially, so permits will not be an issue at all. Check more information at the link here: Non – HP Vehicles Need Permit on Manali – Rohtang Pass Road

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.
          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  120. Jafar Khan says:

    What kind of document proof is required for a student to get the inner line permit ?

    • Any College/School Photo Id or Metric Exam Photo Id will do the job.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Jafar Khan says:

        Thanks Dheeraj.

        • My pleasure, have a nice trip :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj

        • Jafar Khan says:

          I have one more.

          In the article its mentioned that we need to give a copy of the permit at check-posts. The question I have in mind is , might be a silly one, do we have give a copy of the whole bundle, I mean permit letter along with ID proofs or just the approved permit application form will do?

        • Hi Jafar,

          You will only be handed back the permit not the documents by DC office. For that permit, you need to make copies which will be handed over to each post that comes on the way to sightseeing places. It will be filled form with signatures/stamp on it by DC office. That is the permit.

          Regards
          Dheeraj

        • Jafar Khan says:

          Super. That's crystal.

          Thanks Again Dheeraj.

  121. Sharmeen Khan says:

    Hi Dheeraj, You have mentioned here that the ILP costs about 20 rupees. But I contacted Camps of Ladakh for this and they are asking for 150 rupees per place per person. Isnt that too much? Do you think it is advisable to get ILP from them only so that we save time on reaching Leh?

    • Hi Sharmeen,

      Permits are not based on the number of places you write. It is Rs 20 per day per person for any number of places. Also, you need to pay Rs 10 per person as on time fee. So, for 5 days, inner line permit for one person will cost Rs 110 only. Rs 150 is too much. Do it yourself or ask your taxi driver to get it done for you. Either he will not take any money from you or will charge very minimum.

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  122. vikas singh says:

    hi dheeraj thanks for ur usefull tips for leh tourist.

    sir we are 4 person want to go leh with scorpio self driving we start from delhi next is shimla nako lekh spiti rohtang pass keylong then we go to leh is this a right route pls tell me we are goning to 1st september 2012

    • Hi Vikas,

      This route is possible but you will nnot be reaching Rohtang Pass in this case. You will directly join on the Norther Portal of Rohtang Pass at Gramphu via Kunzum Pass. The route with night halts will be like:

      — Shimla – Kalpa
      — Kalpa – Tabo
      — Tabo – Kaza – Kunzum Pass – Keylong
      — Keylong – Sarchu OR Keylong – Leh (you need to leave by 4 AM to reach Leh in time)

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  123. paresh patel says:

    we are a group of 18 persons planning to start from srinagar by self driven cars viz pajero,fortuner and santafe on 28 of june please advice me for legal formalities and places of interest we are planning to stay for four days in leh and then proceed to manali via rohtang please advise

    • Hi Paresh,

      I am jealous for this bon voyage ;) … No legal formalities are required except you the inner line permits you read above in Ladakh and since you start from Srinagar side, you do not need the permit for Manali – Rohtang Pass road as well :) … You can check a very balanced and most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh followed by many travelers including me at the link here: Most Common Itinerary for Leh – Ladakh.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  124. Shreyans Dadde says:

    Dear sir,

    First of all thank you for such a wonderful article. It's seriously very helpful, and it's probably the only article on the Internet that is so clear and to the point.

    I am from Mumbai and I am along with my friends planing a road trip along the manali LEH highway.

    I have a few queries they are listed below.

    – I am from mumbai and my friends are from Kolhapur ( 450 km south of Mumbai) we are all students except one who is getting married next month. We are just 7 guys, and we are planing to drive in a safari Dicor. Considering this fact will we be able to the required permission without any problems.

    Because we are just guys, plus we are from different cities and we are planing to go to sensitive areas.

    Our rough itinerary is as follows please check it out and put your required inputs.

    Day 1, 4 june, Monday.

    Mumbai to udaipur.

    850 km, time required 20 hrs.

    We leave Mumbai at sharp 5

    we have a speed limit to follow and hence I am considering 20 hrs.

    Day 2, 5 June, Tuesday.

    Udaipur to Amritsar.

    900 km, time required 21 hrs.

    We check in at a hotel in Amritsar.

    Day 3, 6 June, Wednesday.

    In Amritsar.

    Visit golden temple, jallianwalla baug in the morning and rest for afternoon.

    In the evening go to wagha border. Rest for the night in Amritsar.

    Day 4, 7 June, Thursday.

    Amritsar to DALHOUSIE.

    189 km, time required 6 hrs

    We leave again at 5 in the morning from Amritsar. Reach DALHOUSIE before 12 noon check into a hotel have lunch and then go to see khajihaar.    Then we rest in our rooms.

    Day 5, 8 June, Friday.

    DALHOUSIE to dharmsala.

    120 km time required 3 hrs.

    Meet dalai lama and stay over night.

    Day 6, 9 June, Saturday.

    Dharmsala to kullu to manali.

    180+55 kms

    We leave again early in the morning by five reach kullu before 9 have breakfast, do river rafting. And leave kullu by 12 noon.

    Reach manali by 1:30 have lunch and check in our hotel. Overnight in manali.

    Day 7, 10 June, Sunday.

    Stay in manali to get acclimatise to the conditions and prevent from ams. We shall also use this time to get latest information about the highway and if we need to hire a driver.

    Day 8, 11 June, Monday.

    Manali to darcha.

    146 kms time required 4-10 hrs depends upon the conditions at that time.

    Here we camp,

    Day 9, 12 June, Tuesday.

    Darcha to sarchu.

    92 km. time required is 4- 8 hrs.

    Day 10, 13 June, Wednesday.

    Sarchu to LEH

    260 km time required is 10 hrs.

    We reach LEH and see the monasteries in and around the town.

    Day 11, 14 June, Thursday.

    LEH-pangong-LEH

    Day 12, 15June, Friday.

    LEH to tso morri lake.

    130 km.

    We camp near the lake.

    Day 13, 16 June, Saturday.

    Tso morri to LEH.

    We spend the night again at LEH.

    Day 14, 17 June, Sunday.

    LEH to nubra valley.

    150 km.

    Day15, 18 June, Monday.

    Nubra to LEH.

    Stay for the night at LEH.

    Day 16, 19 June, Tuesday.

    LEH to KARGIL.  

    225 km 10 hrs.

    Camp at KARGIL.

    Day 17, 20 June, Wednesday.

    KARGIL to Srinagar.

    200 km 10 hrs.

    On the way to Srinagar visit pehalgam, sonmarg and other tourist attractions.

    Check in our houseboat in Srinagar.

    Day 18, 21 June, Thursday.

    Stay in Srinagar.

    Visit the tourist attractions of Srinagar.

    Overnight in Srinagar.

    Day 19, 22 June, Friday.

    Srinagar to Jammu.

    290 km, time required 8hrs.

    Overnight in Jammu.

    Day 20, 23 June, Saturday.

    Jammu to new Delhi.

    620 km time required is 12 hrs.

    Stay overnight in Delhi.

    Day 21, 24 June , Sunday.

    Delhi to indore.

    816 kms, time required is 16 hrs.

    Overnight in indore.

    Day 22, 25 June, Monday.

    Indore to Mumbai.

    578 km, time required 12 hrs.

    End of journey.

    After reading your post I realised that we have to be in manali on weekdays but the problem is that, we cannot leave Mumbai before 4 as my friends have their exams till 2nd. And I have to reach Mumbai by 25 as I have college to attend.

    Can you please help me by telling me how do I apply for permits before hand.

    Secondly can you also ( if it's not too much to ask for) tell me how much cash we need to carry per person( we are 7).

    Also please tell me where can I find really cheap accommodation. We can stay any where.

    I know all this is very confusing, but please help as I am getting more confused every day.

    Thankyou.

    • Hi Shreyans,

      1. You will get the permits within Ladakh, so no issues at that front.
      2. You can get the Manali – Rohtang Pass permit in advance by getting in touch with some Travel Agent or hotel staff based in Manali. He will arrange the permits for you. however, check below itinerary you will not need one and also Dharmshala is much near to Jammu than Manali and hence you will save time on that front as well.
      3. For cheap accommodation in Manali, you can search over Vashisth/Old Manali/Manali – Naggar road which are full of moderate to cheap budget accommodation options. For cheap stay or accommodation options within Leh – Ladakh, check the comprehensive and preferred list of such hotels at the series of articles starting from the link here.
      4. I guess Rs 18-20K should be fine for the whole trip, considering you will stay at budget hotels and do not spend lavishly.

      Now finally, I will suggest you the following plan where I find changes needs to be done very much:

      Day 6 | Dharamshala – Jammu / Patnitop (Going via Srinagar side will help you alot with AMS as well as less number of days and making the whole itinerary more balanced)
      Day 7 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      Overnight at Srinagar
      About 8-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 8 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      Enjoy the vistas enroute
      Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      Overnight at Kargil
      About 8 Hrs drive, depend upon the traffic movement at Zozila and breaks you take in between

      Day 9 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      Overnight at Leh
      About 9-10 Hrs drive, , depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 10 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      Overnight at Leh

      Day 11 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
      About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and at Khardung La

      Day 12 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      Overnight at Leh
      About 7-9 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 13 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)
      About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 14 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      Overnight at Leh
      About 5-6 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 15 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
      Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      Overnight at Leh

      Day 16 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      Cover Karzok Monastery
      Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri
      About 7-8 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 17 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Pang / Sarchu
      Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      Overnight at Sarchu or Pang
      About 11-12 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      Day 18 | Pang / Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      Overnight at Manali
      About 11-12 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between and of course the mess at Rohtang Pass

      Day 19 | Manali – Delhi

      Return Home
      About 13-14 Hrs drive, depending upon the breaks you take in between

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Shreyans Dadde says:

        Thank you very much sir.

        I discussed this itinerary with all my friends and we agreed upon the Srinagar LEH manali route. As of now we have roughly decided to head towards Srinagar directly from Amritsar and then follow the given itinerary. As far as DALHOUSIE and dharmsala is concerned we shall cover it during our next trip. Now just one more question, if I go to Srinagar and from there to LEH via KARGIL, are there any chances of the police or the army stoping us? Do we require to get a character certificate from our police stations as we are just guys? Or is there any other type of permission required? We were thinking of carrying a small kerosine stove, will it be allowed? Can we travell to Srinagar and from there till LEH without any permission and problem?

        • Hi Shreyans,

          Nice that you settled over Srinagar – Leh, good and safe decision :) … and dropping Dalhousie and Dharamshala is another good one :D … Army or police might stop for routine checking only in case it is going on otherwise no definitive checks are present. No you do not need to get any such certificate (is such applicable or necessary somehwere in India?) I mostly travel/drive with guys only and has never been stopped :) … Yes, stove will be allowed. Yes, no permissions are required on Srinagar – Leh Highway.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  125. Prasad says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    I guess you r in ladakh right now.I am reading ur blog for last one month & MAN what a useful this info to me.It seems watever info i require is here.
    Here i have revised my plan bit.
    1.7th june – Leaving for kargil from srinagar.N/H at kargil.8th june evening will reach leh.
    2.9th june local sight seeing & for taking ILP.(READ UR BLOG FOR TAKING ILP)
    3.10th june – heading for nubra valley.N/H at diskit.11th june back to leh.
    4.12th june heading to pangong lake.N/H at pangong.13th june heading to tso moriri via man-merek-chusul-tsaga la-nyoma-korzok.N/H at korzok.
    5 14th june heading to sarchu.N/H at sarchu.15th june want to reach manali before 4:30 pm.since we want to take bus to delhi which departs manali at 06:30 p.m.
    6.Will taxi driver be able to take extra fuel for pangong tso-tso moriri trip?bcoz that trip depends on his willingness to take extra fuel.also considering that we proceeding from tso moriri to sarchu,so only fuel pump immediatly available is tandi.If he doesnt agree then we have come back on same day from pangongtso & proceed to tso moriri next day.but i read from many people here that pangong-tso moriri route via ghusul,nyoma has awesome scenic beauty.so dont want to miss that.
    Pls advice.

  126. NAMS says:

    hi, we are planning to travel from mumbai in our own car.

    I would like to know if there is any special permission required for taking permission of our own vehicle ?

    If yes,

    1.Then I would like to know can we take permission in advance via post ?

    2.DC office postal Address

    3.DC office reverts in how much time???

    do they post back your permission letter ?

    any special format for taking permission for vehicle?

    and for zojila pass what are the timings ???

    • Hello,

      You do not need any permission for taking your own vehicle. Just carry all the required papers/documents with you. You can get the inner line permits in advance only through a hotel or travel agency which provide this service. They will ask you the documents and once you send the documents and moeny they will fax or email you back the permits which you can make copies.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any doubts or inputs.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  127. Rajesh says:

    Hi Dhiraj- I posted couple of quetions on IM but have not had any response yet. I wonder how to book stay at Nubra or Pangong? Is it done in package by the shared taxi owners who takes tourist to those places?

    one of the other question which I can not find any exact details regarding the Tso Moriri. Are the Pangong and Moriri lake are nearby each other? Visiting Pangong would be enough or should I plan to go up to Moriri? Please advise

    • Hello rajesh,

      You can call up any of the guest houses, or accommodation options present at Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso lake and get your bookings done. I will suggest you check out the most preferred list on hotels in entire Leh – Ladakh including Nubra Valley and Pangong tso, mentioned in the series of articles linked here and here

      For comprehensive details on Tso Moriri including the accommodation, check the article linked here: Travel Guide for Tso Moriri Lake in Ladakh If you have couple of days then do plan for Tso Moriri as well but if you do not have much time then you can skip it. If you can share more details on number of days you have in hand, your starting point and how you are commuting perhaps I can suggest you the itinerary for the trip.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      PS-> Currently blocked a little so not that active on IM and BCMT now a days :(

      • Rajesh says:

        Thanks Dheeraj, here is my itineary

        My itinearay is

        26th- Reach in Leh, rest , evening to Shanti Stupa and Leh Market.

        27th- River Indus may be Alchi, please suggest on this?

        28th- Nubra Valley and stay there

        29th- back in Leh and stay overnight

        30th- Pangong lake and stay there

        1st May- Back to Leh, stay overnight in Leh.

        • Rajesh says:

          Hi Dheeraj

          Do you find this Itinerary good for six nights? Should we take some pills or injection before couple of days reaching to Leh.

        • Just replied to your itinerary :)

        • Hi Rajesh,

          I will suggest you follow this plan:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)

          — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.

          — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.

          — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.

          — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .

          — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,

          — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.

          — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.

           

          Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits

          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link: http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/inner-line-per

          — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.

          — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.

          — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.

          — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.

          — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.

          — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening

          — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.

          — Overnight at Leh

           

          Day 3 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder

          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit

          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La

          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

           

          Day 4 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh

          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs

          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 5 | Leh – Pangong Tso – Leh

          — Do not plan to stay overnight at Pangong Tso as you will not be acclimatized and may fall sick. So, make a day trip only.

          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping OR Monastery tour OR fly back home

          — Overnight at Leh

          — Monastery tour may include Hemis, Thicksey and Shey monasteries. They come on the route of Pangong Tso but as you will be doing day trip, it will be a bit hectic to include them on that day only.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you need any details or have any queries.

          Regards

          Dheeraj Sharma

          PS -> I am traveling to Ladakh on today for 10 days, so might not be able to reply instant.

  128. Ratnaksha says:

    Hi, I read somewhere that they don't give the permit to individual tourists and it has to be a group. I am going to markha in mid may and was planning to mountain bike up to khardungla too while I am in Leh. Is getting the permit going to be a problem? I am 19 and am going solo. Thanks.

    • Hello Ratnaksha,

      That is the case with foreigners. Foregin tourist had to apply for permits in batches/groups of four minimum and shall come through a reputed travel agency. Indians can get the permits easily done, just carry the documents as suggested in the article.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any doubts or inputs.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Ratnakshas says:

        Thanks for the help!

        I dunno if this is the right place to ask this but doing the mountain bike upto KhardungLa shouldn't be a problem isn't it? Should a support vehicle be arranged? The thing is that my parents are allowing me to travel to Leh and do Markha alone but this is bit too adventurous they say "foolhardy" to be exact. But I still am not gonna pass up the opportunity. I should be able to manage,right? If I think straight! :)

        • Hi Ratnaksha,

          If you are good in fitness measures, have your body well acclimatized to under go any fatigue, then the answer will be "you will be able to do biking to Khardung La". When I went last time, there was one guy with one leg who pedaled upto Kahardung La with one leg only, just hats off to his spirit + passion. I am sharing this with you just for the motivation you might get thinking about that guy :) … All you will need is strong passion, good fitness level and acclimatized body to pedal your way upto Khardung La pass. But, keep in mind that pedaling at 18K+ feet is not everybody's ball game, so do not consider it even lightly as well.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  129. Sanjay Bhatt says:

    Hi Dheeraj
    I am planning a bike journey to ladhak this june( most probably from 10 june) but i am totally confused about how to plan the itinerary. we are planning to go via Manali route( Manali- Leh- Srinagr). we want to see almost all the places whatever is possible in 10-12 days trip. can u suggest some plan for the trip. Also as we are going on bullet (350 cc) can u suggest what all we need to carry with us and where we will find mechanic shops and where not. Also some information about the petrol pumps in that area.
    Thanks in advance

    Sanjay Bhatt

    • Hi Sanjay,

      Please plan it in other direction as going via Srinagar – Leh Highway will be much much easier on your body and help you acclimatize to the high altitude of Manali – Leh Highway. Also, it allows you to enjoy the beauty of Manali – Leh by splitting the journey into almost evenly in two days which is very difficult in the other direction. Thirdly, it will allow you to fit Tso Moriri lake into the itinerary in better way.

      For all the information regarding amenities like petrol pumps, mechanic shops etc. please refer the summary at the bottom of articles How to plan a journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway and How to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway

      Day 1 | Delhi – Jammu / Patnitop
      — Overnight at Jammu or Patnitop

      Day 2 | Jammu / Patnitop – Srinagar
      — Enjoy walk around Dal lake and may be Shikara ride as well
      — If you have time then check out, floating market, Shalimar Garden.
      — Overnight at Srinagar

      Day 3 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 4 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 5 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link : http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/inner-line-per
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 7 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Leh – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
      — Day trip to Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      DO NOT FORGET to Carry spare fuel for about 550 KMs including your tankful
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Moore Plains – Sarchu
      — Try to start early in the day so that you reach Sarchu where the accommodation options are better than Pang
      — Overnight at Sarchu or Pang

      Day 11 | Sarchu – Baralacha La – Keylong – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      — On the way cover Suraj Tal, Deepak Tal which are on the road sides only
      — Overnight at Manali

      Day 12 | Manali – Delhi
      — Return home

      Day 13 + 14 | Buffer days to be kept incase of road closure due to landslides or snowfall or perhaps you want to enjoy more.

      Additional Points:
      1. Instead of coming back to Leh from Nubra Valley, you can head towards Pangong Tso via Wari La route. If you are riding then you need to carry sufficient fuel for it.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know for any doubts or queries you have.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Sanjay Bhatt says:

        Thank you very much Dheeraj. Why I was looking the other route because I am from vikasnagar, Uttarakhand and manali via rohru is much shorter than going the other way.I had already covered the Manali highway when I travelled to Rohtang Pass. Also acclimatization would not be that big problems I am habitual to such environment.

        Also regarding the accommodation is it better to book earlier or walk-in accommodation is easy to find(economic, not costly).

        • Hi Sanjay,

          Since, you are habitual than perhaps you may feel OK on Manali – Leh Highway. Keep in mind that most of the Manali – Leh Highway is above 14000 feet and requires good acclimatization. But, yes since you are habitual then may be you can try, though I will still say take Srinagar route :) … In case you are prefer Manali – Leh then halt your journey at Keylong after Solang Valley (suggested) or Manali and then do Keylong – Leh in one day. On the way back you can do Tso Moriri – Sarchu and then Sarchu – Manali to make it evenly balanced.

          Booking over phone will always be costly and since, I never book and OK to do a little search once I land at the place, I do get some good deals :) … So, if you are OK for running around a bit you shall be fine walking in and getting the accomodation. For nice, prefered list of accommodation option in entire Leh – Ladakh including moderate and cheap budget hotels as well, check the series of articles starting from the link here

          I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  130. a jeet says:

    hello Dheeraj,

    my 1st query is for siachin base camp, how & from where to get permission for this from delhi, and if not got permission,then from panamik (i hope its on the same route) how far can we go without having permits for siachin base camp?

    2nd- is getting permit for tutok is a bit tricky?

    thanks

    • Hello Ajeet,

      Not exactly sure buddy about your first query but AFAIK, I feel until you have some good contacts in Army, the permits to Siachin base camp would be hard to find. Best bet will be Army Headquarters at Leh. They also send/fax some document to Delhi for final approval. Hence, the process is going to take sometime, if at all someone agrees in the army to provide you the permits.

      You can get the permits for Turtuk from DC office itself.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  131. ramesh says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I need some more assistance from you.

    1.where shall we get tasty food ( veg & non veg ) and suggest us some Leh local food ( other than momos ).

    2. What will be approximate money we need to spend for lunch or dinner per person.

    3. Whether leather jackets are reasonable or expensive at Leh.

    4. Which vehicle suits well to hire for Nubra valley trip & Pangong lake ( for 3 persons )

    • Hello Ramesh,

      1. There are many places at Main Market and Changspa road where you can have good tasty food. Jeevan Cafe is one of them
      2. For a day, you may take average of Rs 200-400 depending upon what you eat and where you eat.
      3. Not sure about this one.
      4. I guess, all vehicles have same price apart from Jeep or vans which do local sightseeing I guess. So, book a Scorpio and go drive :)

      I hope this helps. Please let me know for any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ramesh says:

        Hi Dheeraj,

        Thanks a lot. Very valuable information you are sharing with us. Keep going on. I will call u if i any any more assistance. May i have your contact number.

  132. ramesh says:

    dear Mr dheeraj. Your blog is very much helpful for the people who are planning to visit Ladakh for the first time. my trip to leh is confirmed between 11th april to 17 th april. How will be the weather. could there be any snow fall in leh?

    • Hello Ramesh,

      Thanks a lot. Well in April, weather will be generally cold and temperatures would go below sub-zero at night. Do go prepared with heavy woolens clothes for sure. In Daylight, light woolens will work and you will have pleasant times but nights if you are not used to cold, you may find sub-zero temperatures to by nippy. Keep heavy woolens with you.

      I hope this helps Please let me knwo for any queries or doubts you might have.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • ramesh says:

        Hi dheeraj. Thanx for your quick response. this is a family trip. in this trip i want to go to nubra valley and stay there for a night and secondly to pangong lake. Will you please suggest me how should i plan my itenerary ( i.e., day 1 to day 6 )

        • Hello Ramesh,

          In such a case I suppose you are flying in and out of Leh. So, you can follow something like below:

          Day 1 | Delhi – Leh (By Flight)
          — Checkin at Hotel. Many hotels provide free pick and drop from Airport. Ask while you book them.
          — Take ample of rest as well as water or anything that keep your body hydrated enough. DO NOT OVER HYDRATE. Take ORS Soluted water or ORS – L tetra packs from home.
          — Do not over exert your body at any cost. Avoid too much up-down on stairs or avoid it in entirety, if possible.
          — After 5-6 Hrs of rest you can visit Leh Palace, Local Leh market, Shankar Gompa .
          — If you feel exerted go back to Hotel, have dinner at Hotel and take rest. Avoid any exertion. Else continue and,
          — Follow the sunset by stroll at Changspa road and have a nice dinner on varied cuisines offered in-around Changspa road.
          — Go back to hotel for overnight stay at Leh.

          Day 2 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
          — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here: http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/inner-line-per
          — Hire a taxi from Leh taxi stand or Hotel whichever suits you.
          — Bargain hard with taxi driver. Book that single taxi for entire trip after explaining the complete plan.
          — Take his inputs if you feel reasonable and if required modify the plan accordingly but should suits you best.
          — Ask him to be with you guys starting first day itself, if required and charged reasonable else do it at your own.
          — Again DO NOT over exert and take little steps and slow walks only.
          — If feeling OK then do Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
          — Do not use stairs at any of these places just to see them as it will exert your body much more.
          — Overnight at Leh
           
          Day 3 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
          — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
          — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
          — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
          — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari
           
          Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
          — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
          — Overnight at Leh

          Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake – Leh
          — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
          — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

          Day 7 | Leh – Delhi – Flyout

          Now incase, you feel better on Day 3 then skip Day 3 and head to Nubra Valley for night stay. You can plan to travel Day 3 on Day 6 in that case as it will give you a buffer day so as to ensure you do not miss flight due to any road closure in worst case. But, make sure you are feeling well on Day 3 before heading to Nubra Valley.

          I hope this helps. Please let me know for any queries or doubts.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • ramesh says:

          Hi Dheeraj,

          Thanks for your valuable guidance.

  133. Nishank Jain says:

    Hi Deeraj,

    Can you help me just that how much Inner line permit copies are required for visiting of Pangong Lake & Nubra valley for submiting at check post.

    The sample form & application available in artical is valid for April 2012.

    • Hi Nishank,

      You should get 6-7 copies and I guess it should be fine. The sample form is to show how to fill the application form, so use blank version of it to fill in your details. The application letter can be written in any format, I have just presented my version of the same. As long as you specify the details mentioned in the application letter, you are good to go with any other format.

      The format of the application form most likely will remain same. IN worst case if it has changed you can just copy the details you have filled in your form to other and submit the already ready document set of yours.

      Regards

      Dheeraj

  134. S Bandyopadhyay says:

    Hi Deeraj,

    Many thanks again. Another related query. Will the Leh taxi drivers be ready to stay overnight for our trip to nubra valey from Leh.

    Sanjoy

    • Hi Sanjoy,

      Yes, the rates are according to the option you choose with one night, two night, single day etc. Are you flying to Leh? What else do you like to do in 4 days in Leh? May be I can help suggest the itinerary for the trip, to get maximum out of your stay.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  135. S Bandyopadhyay says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your reply. I have another query. We are planning to stay 5 nights at Leh and 1 night in Nubra valey. Can you please suggest whether we should book beforehand the vehicle for the sight-seeing trips or we can do that after arrival at Leh. Which one will be less costly.

    Thanks again for youe helpful comments.

    Sanjoy

    • Hi Sanjoy,

      You should book it once you land in Leh and you should directly speak to drivers at Leh taxi stand instead of involving Taxi Union or any travel agent. It would certainly help you get about 12-15% discounts on the union rates. Talking over phone always will always be costly :)

      I hope this helps. Let me know incase of any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  136. S Bandyopadhyay says:

    Dear Dheeraj,

    I am planning to visit Leh with my family. We have proper photo IDs, but my daughter does not have yet. Is it ok to get inner line permit for her if we produce her original birth ceritificate along with our (parents) voter ID copies.

    Thanks a lot..

    sanjoy

    • Hi Sanjoy,

      I guess it should be fine enough to get you the permits for your daughter. You will get the permits after showing the above documents.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any doubt or queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  137. Robert Devasia says:

    Dheeraj

    Is there any issue in using a Private Vehicle (Mahindra Jeep) from Kerala in Leh-Ladakh.

    Thanks for the GREAT Post

    Robert

    • Hi Robert,

      Thanks alot. No if the vehicle is private number registered then there is no issue at all. Just carry all the relevant car papers and photo identity proofs along with valid Driving License. If you go via Manali – Leh Highway, then you will need permit to travel on Manali – Rohtang Pass road, which is issued from DC office Manali. In case you are coming from Leh side on Manali – Leh Highway, you will not require any permit to drive down from Rohtang Pass to Manali.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  138. Nitin says:

    Hey Dheeraj, thanks for putting up such a great piece of information altogether on one website. Had a query regarding getting the permits:

    Is it possible to get all the permits for all the places you want to visit at the same time if in case the trip is pre-planned?

    • Hi Nitin,

      Usually, this is the process only. You get all the permits for all the places you want to visit in the trip at one time only :) … You just need to mention the names of the places you visit and the number of days you will stay in Ladakh for the same. Fees is calculated on the basis of number of days and permit is provided on the basis of places you want to visit. So, mention all the places when you apply for the permits. You can check the sample application letter as well as sample application form to have more details.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regrads
      Dheeraj Sharma

  139. hi dheeraj,i do follow u on indiamike and your post is really helpful.i am finalizing my trip via srinagar and 14 days is too much for me.but i do want to cover the must see places in leh and ladakh..

    i also want to cover sonmarg on my way to leh from srinagar.is it possible??

    we are a group of four and rest of my friends are from IT sector,so we can spend a maximum of 7 days in leh and ladakh,rest 3 days we want to cover srinagar,patnitop,sonmarg etc..

    can you please help me on this???

    thanks for such an useful post…

    • Hi Dr. Shyam,

      I will suggest skip patnitop and directly fly to Srinagar and finally fly out of Leh. In this way you will be able to cover everyting in Ladakh and Sonamarg too. You can follow the belo itinerary in such a case:

      Day 1 | Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil
      — Enjoy the vistas enroute
      — Have late drunch meal at Drass is you are a vegetarian as sometimes it gets difficult to find veg. food at Kargil
      — Overnight at Kargil

      Day 2 | Kargil – Lamayuru – Leh
      — Cover Mulbekh Maitrey, Lamayuru Moanstery, Lunar Landscapes
      — On the way you can also see Gurudwara Pather Sahib, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 3 | Leh Local Sighseeing + Inner Line Permits
      — Local sightseeing include Namgyal Gompa, Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shankar Gompa, Main Market, Hall of Fame, Spituk Gompa, Changspa Road Stroll in evening
      — For more details on inner line permits process and to download application form read the link here
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 4 | Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder
      — Head for Nubra Valley and stay overnight at Hunder / Diskit
      — On the way enjoy a cup of soup at Highest Motorable Pass (as claimed) Khardung La
      — Diskit has monasteries with tallest lord Buddha statue and Hunder has sand dunes and bacterian camel safari

      Day 5 | Hunder / Diskit – Sumur – Panamik – Sumur – Khardung La – Leh
      — Sumur has a famous monastery to check out and Panamik has hot water springs
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 6 | Leh – Hemis Monastery – Pangong Tso Lake
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on the go towards Pangong Tso
      — Overnight at Pangong Tso (Spangmik or Lukung)

      Day 7 | Pangong Tso Lake – Thicksey Monastery – Shey Palace – Leh
      — Cover either of Hemis, Thicksey and Shey on return to Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 8 | Rest day at Leh to enjoy local culture and some shopping or you can do tour to Sham Valley
      — Sham Valley include Alchi, Likir, Basgo Palace, Magnetic Hills, Confluence at Zanskar, , Gurudwara Pather Sahib
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 9 | Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang
      — Cover Karzok Monastery
      — Overnight at Karzok or Tso Moriri

      Day 10 | Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Debring (Manali – Leh Highway starts) – Taglang La – Leh
      — Overnight at Leh

      Day 11 | Fly out.

      In case, you still need to skip any day then skip Day 8 and try to start early on Day 2 from Kargil to cover these places of Day 8 on the way to Leh.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know incase you have any doubts or queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  140. Rocky Manch says:

    Thanks for the helpful blog…..It seems you got stuck during your visit as the cloud burst happened on the time if i am not wrong…just checked from the dates on the sample filled form..:)

    • Hi Rocky,

      O yes, we did get caught in the Leh – Ladakh flash floods. It was scary, very scary I shall say and so many prayers brought us alive back to share such helpful content with others too.

      I am glad that you liked the information present on the blog. Please let me know incase you need any inputs for your Leh – Ladakh trip.

      Regards
      Dheeraj sharma

  141. Giao says:

    it's so great to find out your blog. I'm going there 1st April by myself and staying there for a week. An inner permit for a foreigner like me is a must rite. I would be great if I can see you there.

    • Hello Giao,

      Thanks alot buddy. But, most probably I will be going in the third week of April this year. Yes, you will need a protected area permit (similar to Inner Line Permit). Let me know incase you need any details or have any queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma
      PS -> Sorry for the delayed reply

    • Amol Shivarkar says:

      Hi all last year i was visited Leh with my Parents but this year m planning to go with Friends anybody want to join i will plan to go around April.

      • hey Amol,

        I hope you doing great. All the best wishes for your trip, I will be in ladakh too in April end. so, if you happen to be there around that time, we will surely meet over a cup of tea or coffee :)

        Cheers!!

        Dheeraj Sharma

  142. Ravi says:

    Hi Dheeraj.

    Just finished reading this article..

    I'm confused whether they will provide the permit for two of us or not as I'm going on my bike with a pillion rider.

    Thanks,

    Ravi

    • hi Ravi,

      Why do you think so? You need to apply the permits for both of you, they will collect the fees per person and that is it :) … You will get the permits for both of you. There is no connection between permits and how you gonna travel to places of the permits. So, nothing stops you here, just download the form and prepare the documents as mentioned in the article. Once you reach Leh, get the permits for both of you without much hassle.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • Ravi says:

        Dheeraj,

        I had read somewhere that they don't allow one or 2 person for travelling.. They give the permit to 4 or a group of more than 4 people.

        • Yups, Ravi you heard it correctly but that is for foreign tourist and not Indians. In any case, they also get the permits because they club with other tourist present around the DC Office having similar requirement. So, nothing much to worry.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Ravi says:

          Great…!!

          Another mystery resolved..

          Thanks Dheeraj!

        • Great Ravi, my pleasure. All the best for your trip and keep letting me know for any queries or doubts you might have for your trip :)

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

    • naveen says:

      mr.Ravi when r u planning to go???? even i am planing a trip in my bike!!!! i am from kerala

      • Hey Naveen,

        I hope the above article was useful for your Leh – Ladakh trip. If you have any queries related to planning the Leh – Ladakh trip.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

    • Abhishek says:

      Dear Dheeraj,

      Thanks for all the excellent posts. I very much appreciate all the effort and time you have put behind all this :)

      Can you please tell me if there is any way to get these inner line permits from other cities like Kolkata/Delhi (J&K Tourism offices or somewhere)?

      My plan is to do a Manali to Leh trip and was wondering if we could visit Pangong Tso & Tso Moriri before reaching Leh. I don't want to go to Leh, get the permit and again go back the same road.

      Thanks,

      Good luck & take care,

      Abhishek.

      • Hello Abhishek,

        Thanks buddy for the appreciation. It helps alot :)… I am glad that you liked the information present on the blog. You cannot get the permits outside Leh – Ladakh. Also, first doing Manali – Leh Highway from Manali side should be avoided as most of the highway runs above 14000 feet which results in Acute Mountain Sickness and could result in spoiling the trip. You can minimize it by staying at Keylong and then doing long run to Leh from Keylong and then again you feel sickness while you travel.

        Now, you are taking many steps higher by having an idea to stay atthese high altitude lakes without acclimatization. AMS could be fatal too buddy and should be taken seriously. Staying overnight at these lakes are very much avoided and not suggested even on third night after you reach Leh and doing it from Manali side will be insane act. If you are planning to cover Srinagar – Leh as well then, do it from Srinagar side and that ways you will be acclimatized for Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri while you come back towards Manali.If that is not the case, thengo to Leh and then go to Nubra Valley for two days and finally try to spend a night at Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri after that.

        Read more about Acute Mountain Sickness here

        For most common itinerary for Leh – Ladakh you can check the article here as well. It is very balanced itinerary followed by many of the travellers including me :)

        I hope this helps. Let me know incase you need more info. or have any queries or doubts.

        Regards
        Dheeraj Sharma

        • Abhishek says:

          Hi Dheeraj,

          Thanks so much for the reply :)

          I have read most of your posts. All are very well written and thorough.

          I do like your idea of doing it from Leh side, but the problem is that it would be a little hectic to return to Kolkata from Manali.

          Anyways I have pitched both the plans to our group. Let's see how it works out :)

          Regarding AMS, well it's pretty common. Almost 75% people will have some mild degree of AMS. I myself had it when I went to Sandakphu by a trekker. This time we'll be taking all the meds with us including acetazolamide, dexamethasone, ibuprofen etc. The queasy feeling does tend to bother you and often ruins the trip, but this time we might consider taking prophylactic acetazolamide.

          But you are going to feel some degree of nausea and uneasiness no matter from which direction you travel due to the high passes, but yes I agree that it might be a little more comfortable travelling from Leh side.

          Just curious, have you done it both ways? I mean both from Manali and Leh?

          I liked the itinerary that you posted, but can you please add maybe a shorter version for people who have a time crunch. Given that you have been there so many times I think you'd have a good idea about which places are a must see :)

          Thanks once again for all the help. Much appreciate it.

          Good luck & take care,

          Abhishek.

        • Hi Abhishek,

          Not sure how did I missed your comment. Sorry, for not replying so far. Thanks alot for appreciation buddy, I am really glad that you found the info. available here useful enough. Not sure, are you planning to take the flight back from Srinagar?? Manali is connected well too and in terms of number of days it won't affect much. But, believe me it will help you tremendously with AMS. It is great that you already know about the affects of it and have experienced with it. Nopes, buddy I have never done it from both sides (only via Manali) but I always regret this fact :) … Luckily both times only my friends suffered through it badly and I had only mild affects. But, here you are talking of sleeping at Pangong Tso or Tso Moriri after Sarchu. My advice is that if you feel alright at Sarchu then only try to attempt it else drop this idea because the region is so remote that little help if required at all will be hard to find.

          Let me know how many days you have in hand and what all places you need to visit or plan to visit? I will present the shorter version of it. Also let me know how much comfortable are you with riding/driving for long hours, say about 12-13 Hrs a day.

          BTW, I am again going to Leh – Ladakh this April and would come back with latest updates about the most awaited route that connects Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Shyok village :) … Meanwhile we can discuss your plans.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • Abhishek says:

          Thanks Dheeraj :)

          I am also very curious about that Shyok village route.
          I will definitely keep you suggestions in mind.
          I will ask you for more once we have our basic itinerary finalized. :)
          Good luck with your trip in April.

          Take care,

          Abhishek.

        • Sure, most welcome anytime. One more thing I forgot to tell you is that you can get the permits either faxed or emailed by asking the hotel/travel agents in Leh. So, no need to get them in any other cities.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

  143. Amigo says:

    We are planning a trip to Manali – Leh – Nubra in July-Aug. Some of us are non-Indian passport holders. Could you plea advise if process for Inner Line Permits is same for both or is there a diffrent process?

    • Hi Amigo,

      For NRIs, I am not so sure about whether you guys need to apply for Protect Area Permit or for Inner Line Permit. But, the process is more or like similar for all and it is just the application forms that may differ. Foreigners need to apply for PAP (Protected Area Permit) which is issued for one week and Indians apply for Inner Line Permit whose application form has been linked in the article. I stronly feel that you may also be required to apply for Inner Line Permit but again not so sure :(

      I am heading there in April again and will definitely get this clarification done then, perhaps even get the application form for Protected Area Permit as well.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  144. Aatmik says:

    I am still below 18 and do not hold a PASSPORT.
    WHAT should be the alternative for PASSPORt as PHOTO ID.
    I have school ID card.
    COLLEGE ID CARD.
    10th 12th MARKSHEET.

    • Aatmik, if you are still below 18 yrs. I guess college/school id card will suffice but I hope you are being accompanied with some adult member? I will still confirm this from my friends who take their children with them and reply you back :)

      Regards
      Dheeraj

    • nehul says:

      hi i want to visit leh ledak in

      15 of april or best in may 15

      • Nehul how many day you want to visit? At that time the only option is to fly-in and out of Leh as the roads are closed by that time. What is your starting point?

        Regards
        Dheeraj

  145. A.K.Paul says:

    Road open 12 may 12 Srinagar to Kargil. Appely for Inerline Permit for Leh & Kargil from Kolkata address D.C.Office Ley & Kargil.

    • Hi Mr. Paul,

      I guess it will be difficult to predict so early if on May 12, 2012 the Srinagar – Leh Highway will be open or not. Generally, June is the safe time to travel because the highway opens either by end of May or starting June. So, I will suggest that you keep the plans for June.

      I do not have the exact addresses of DC offices in Leh and Kargil but once you reach there they are not at hard to find and every other person knows the way to it.

      Regards
      Dheeraj

  146. Deepak Rao says:

    hello dheeraj

    Can i go to ladakh alone .is there any difficulty to get inner line permit for single person.

    • Yes, Deepak, you can go to Ladakh alone. No issues in getting the inner line permits for even a single person :)… Let me know incase you need more details about Leh – Ladakh.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Amol says:

      Hi Deepak Rao. i have one suggestion for you go with your friends u will enjoy more.

  147. Amol says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Me and my friends are planning to visit Leh- ladakh. But we cannot ride bike from mumbai to Ladakh. Is there any alternative way which way we can enjoy d beauty of kashmir on bike. I mean do you know any polace where we can get bike on rent for 8-10 days. If Yes, Could you please share that with me & Do you have any iternary in that case?

    • Hi Amol,

      I will suggest that you go through the article on renting bikes from Manali for Leh or may be you can fly to Leh and then rent the bikes there. The tips mentioned in the article remains same for Leh as well. But, if you want to enjoy journey from Manali to Leh then hire/rent bikes in Manali only. Here is the link – How to Hire or Rent a Bike or Motorcycle in Manali

      Let me know the number of days you are planning for the trip, I will suggest the itinerary accordingly :)

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  148. Ashish says:

    Hi Dheeraj,

    Thanks for the fascinating and detailed blog.

    I have a query for you, and I hope I can get an answer.

    I am planning for a trip to Laddakh on bike with a friend (No girlfriend .. lol….) just two of us.

    I have heard that Border Police and Army do not allow you go to beyond certain places around Pagong and Tso Moriri, if you are a group of less then 4 people.

    Is it so ? Please clarify if you have any idea about it.

    Regards

    Ashish

    • Hello Ashish,

      As long as you both have permits for the place, you are free to roam there. No one will stop you. to go beyond Pangong Tso towards Changthang Valley you need to write all places enroute which you wish to cover. With Pangong Tso written on your ILP, you will not be allowed to go ahead of Spangmik. So, write all places mentioned above for Changthang Valley and do take this permit in person not through any agent. I have known many couples too who have done this circuit together without any group. So, it is a fallacy or may be rumor spread by some travel agents who are not able to get permits for Changthang Valley :)

      Don't worry plan your journey ahead and just make sure you have the permits for places you want to visit. I hope this helps. Let me know incase you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

  149. [...] Leh, the dream of reaching Ladakh is finally true and if you love this place then the excitement to reach Leh will refresh each of your body part even after a 14-15 hours of strolling journey. It’s better that you give some days to local Leh sightseeing and feel the culture, people, traditions and magical aura of Leh – Ladakh. Main market and Changspa road really rocks, so if you like lively environment then try to get a hotel as close to them as possible. Next day, along with local sightseeing you can also arrange the Inner Line Permits for other destinations you are planning to visit in Leh – Ladakh. If you need more details on Inner Line Permits of Leh – Ladakh then read this article: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh [...]

  150. BHSKAR says:

    Hi Dheeraj….

    This is Bhaskar from W.B.Its great relief from stress to plan ladakh tour after reading your article.We are a group of 12-15 people and starting from 1st of july 2012 from Delhi.We are trying to cover Kashmir valley,Lahul & Spiti and ofcourse entire ladakh.Its a dream tour for us and i have given the massive job to plan the entire tour.

    After reading your all of the post i have planned to start from Srinagar.

    DAY 1. JAMMU RAJHANI

    DAY 2. JAMMU TO SRINAGAR night stay at Srinagar.

    DAY 3,4.Explore Kashmir valley.

    DAY 5. Srinagar to Kargil/Dras(?)[suggest me the better place for night stay]

    DAY 6. Transfer to Leh.

    DAY 7. ILP preparation and Leh sight seeing.

    DAY 8. Tour to Nubra valley,night stay at DISKIT.

    DAY 9. Visit Sumur,Panamik and start for PANGONG Tso through Wari la,night stay at Pangong Tso.[is it possible & how many km we have to travel for the day?]

    DAY 10. Enjoy the Pangong Tso and start for Hanle on the way to Tso moriri.Night stay at Hanle.

    DAY 11. Hanle to Tso Moriri,night stay there.

    DAY 12. Start for Tso Kar and night stay there.

    DAY 13. Finally start for Himachal on the way night stay at Jispa.

    DAY 14,15,16 FOR ENTIRE LAHUL & SPITI….

    1. Is it possible to move directly from Nubra to Pangong in one day bypassing Leh?

    2.If we leave Rotang Pass & take Kunjum Pass to enter Spiti,can we miss the beauty of Leh to Manali journey,if so,how should we add that along with the entire Spiti.We can add 1 or 2 days for that.

    Expecting your valuable comments for the dream tour…

    Thanking you

    BHASKAR

    • Hello Bhaskar,

      You plan looks quite OK but I will add a few days more to really enjoy the beauty of Ladakh. Actually, you will be on road most of the time with least rest days as well as no buffer days. Few inputs that I will suggest –
      Day 5 – You can stay at Kargil. If someone is strict Veg. then take the dinner (or drunch) at Drass only as Veg. food is hard to get in late hours at Kargil, as I know.
      Day 9 – I guess it will be a very long day if you include Sumur and Panamik too. If you are OK with 13-14 Hrs ride then it can be done. I will suggest either add few days here or drop Changthang as of now. Also, You are looking for Nubra Valley + Pangong Tso + Tso Moriri via Changthang + Manali – Leh Highway in one go without any Petrol Pump to refuel the tank. This will mean you need to carry fuel for about 900 KMs as it might be possible that you will not find fuel at Diskit Petrol Pump in Nubra Valley. So, try avoid such a long journey without fuel and either add 3-4 days or skip Changthang.

      Better will be to do –
      Day 9 – Sumur, Panamilk – Tangste/Pangong Tso (if possible with daylight left)
      Day 10 – Pangong Tso, whole day and overnight
      Day 11 – Pangong Tso – Leh
      Day 12 – Leh – Tso Moriri via Chumathang (This way you will need to carry the fuel at Leh/Upshi/Karu for just 550+ KMs circuit including Manali – Leh Highway)
      Day 13 – Tso Moriri – Tso Kar – Moore Plains – Pang – Sarchu (No need to stay at Tso Kar visit it by leaving early from Tso Moriri on Day 12)
      Day 14 – Sarchu – Jispa
      Day 15 – Jispa – Udaipur – Triloknath Temple – Jispa (You are covering Lahaul here)
      Day 16 – Jispa – Chandratal (you can spend time at Chandratal. Skip Spiti Valley as there is too much to see/explore in it and you do have much time.
      Day 17 – Chandratal – Rohtang Pass – Manali
      Day 18 – Manali – Delhi
      Day 19 + Day 20 – Keep atleast two buffer days or more.

      Now, there is trade-off between Kashmir Valley (covered in above plan but if excluded will save you two days), Changthang (dropped in above plan), Lahaul Valley (covered mostly in above plan), Spiti Valley (only Chandratal included). Make your choice and we can re-iterate the itinerary based on the choice. You have to choose little if you have less number of days and keep leftovers for your next visit.

      I hope this helps. Please let me know for any doubts/queries.

      Regards
      Dheeraj Sharma

      • BHSKAR says:

        Hi Dheeraj…

        Firstly beg a pardon….since i forgot to say you HAPPY DIWALI…..so its BELATED HAPPY DIWALI.

        NOW again thanks to you for your valuable advice.

        Keeping the scarcity of fuel pump i am rescheduling the trip.Actually i am trying to avoiding Leh for second time and also there is a wish to visit the remote corner of Ladakh viz. HANLE.

        would you plz suggest me the best place to stay at PANGONG Tso & Tso MORIRI…for Leh & Diskit i have got your HOTEL REVIEW and its also within our budget.

        Lastly plz guide me about road condition either it will open or not on the 1st week of July and also about the rent of SUV type of car for the whole trip…..

        Waiting for your reply….

        Regards

        BHASKAR

        • Hey Bhaskar,

          Wishing you a very very Happy Diwali as well… Thanks for your wishes too.
          Well, if you want to visit Changthang then I will advice you to drop Kashmir Valley that will save you two days for Changthang. It will be far better experience than Kashmir Valley in July. If you like to go with Changthang then we can re-iterate the itinerary. As I said, you can avoid Leh but I will advice you to got to Leh as it cut shorts the journey and give you time to relax as well as enjoy culture around Leh. It is a good experience too. Rather I will ssay plan the whole trip for Leh – Ladakh only to actually get the feel of the place and relax too with apt time to do justice for the place. I am sure it will be far far better than running to see many places, just concentrate on Ladakh because even one month is less to actually explore Leh – Ladakh. You will not be disappointed. The approximate cost for the taxi (hire Scorpio only as prices are all same) will be around 50-55K for the entire tour. Keep in mind that Kashmir taxi is not allowed to roam in Leh – Ladakh for sightseeing and vice – versa. Similarly, Leh – Ladakh taxi is not allowed for sightseeing in Himachal region and vice-versa.

          Let me know what you finalize and I will edit the required itinerary. I hope this helps. Please let me know for any doubts/queries.

          Regards
          Dheeraj Sharma

        • BHSKAR says:

          Again its good to see your valuable and prompt reply.I will be very grateful to you if you kindly provide your mail id or mobile no[if there is no problem],so that i can reach to you very promptly……

          Regards

          BHASKAR

        • Bhaskar, I will mail you my contact number. Cheers!! :)

  151. PraKaant says:

    Thanks a lot, Dheeraj, for such a wonderful article and Application Form!

    And also link to Srinagar – Leh Guide!

    Looking forward to expert guidance on other issues also whenever needed!!

    Thanks once again

    Regards

    PraKaant

  152. Sheetal says:

    I have prepared an itinerary that I wish to see in Leh but Can you suggest a good contact info who arrange jeep safari. I shall be leaving in Sep 2011

    • Hello Sheetal,

      Well I am not sure what do you mean by jeep Safari. I guess you can arrange a taxi (Scorpio / Xylo types) comfortably yourself once you are in Leh from Leh taxi stand because booking anything from here would mean higher price and less discount. While once you reach Leh, you can go to Leh taxi stand directly talk to drivers and check the condition of vehicle and then bargain about 15-20% to what they quote as taxi union rates. Sepetmber being lean season for domestic tourist you may be able to get close to that 20% discount figure. I hope this helps.

      If you like to go for some specialized jeep safaris then you can also contact the owner of Shanti Guest House who runs a travel agency as well and are well established too. The contact given below for Shanti Guest House and Tour Travels.

      Phone: 0091-1982-253084/250023
      Mobile: +91-94191 78760, 99069 82118, 94198 88833

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  153. Saugata Mahindar says:

    Dear Mr. Dheeraj,

    Thanks for your input.

    I am concerned about the comment of the tour operator that DC-Leh does not have power to issue permit for Hanle ! If it is so, who is the next higher authority – can you please arrange to provide me the communication-address of DC-Leh so that I can write to him directly in this regard?

    I already mentioned the places on the way through which we can reach to Hanle, but still the tour operator refused to persue the ILP for Hanle and advised me to arrange by my own. Will there be any issue, if applicable ILP for the entire trip (except Hanle)is arranged by the tour operator and the Hanle part is arranged by myself ? We would be having 2 ILPS for the entire trip , in that case !

    Last but not the least, unless I get any accommodation, it won't be possible to be at Hanle – apart from the observatory guest house, I heard few local people also provide Homestay – do you have any contacts at Hanle or Leh who can help me in this aspect ?

    Regards,

    saugata

    • Hello Saugata,

      I am wondering why he gave you such statement. It is only Leh DC who can give the permits for Hanle, no other authority as far as I know. Yes, it is true that ILP for Hanle is issued subject to the present political or border situation but they are in any case issued by Leh DC only. I will suggest that do not believe on what travel agents say because many of them don't even know about the places of Changthang Valley and they fool tourists rather travelers interested in that part of Ladakh by giving such baseless statements. It is always better to get the inner line permits for Changthang yourself. Are you short on time? If no, then just spare 2-3 hours on the first day you visit Leh and get the permits made yourself. If you are short on time then you need to find some strong source who can get the permit for you. The travel agents or hotel staff may not be of much help in case of ILP for Changthang including Hanle, AFAIK.

      Yes, there can be issues if you apply separate permits, I would suggest better not apply the permits twice within the same duration. If he has got the permits for the Changthang then just drop Hanle rather comprising the whole plan. I am quite sure that you will be able to get the permits for Hanle if you go in person to Leh DC office. I have read about and knew so many people who have visited Hanle by getting the permits from Leh DC office only. My friends mostly stayed at couple of home stays available there but you cannot book them any how. As far as accommodation for observatory guest house goes, the last update I got from my friend was they no longer entertain people who just land there and for booking the rest house you need to know someone in Indian Institute of Astrophysics, as told by him. Anyhow, you can check yourself by writing or calling at the below contact –

      Indian Astronomical Observatory
      Indian Institute of Astrophysics
      Post Box No. 100, Leh-Ladakh 194 101 INDIA
      Tel : 91 (01982) 252195, 253104

      There is a PWD rest house as well along with some homestay options. I hope this helps. Let me know in case you have more queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

    • Ravi Bansal says:

      Thanks a lot for the valuable information. I am going soon.

  154. Also, please make sure that you are not accompanied by any foreigner as ONLY Indians are allowed for permits for Changthang Valley (Man – Merak – Chusul – Hanle etc)

    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma

  155. Amol Shivarkar says:

    To Mahindar,

    Its a very easy job to get ILM its takes only 1hr for whole procedure. People are very helpfull in Leh.

  156. Saugata Mahindar says:

    Dear Mr. Sharma,

    Your information and the permit forms are extremely helpful for whom who would like to visit Ladakh (myself along with my wife & son of 10.5 yrs. in coming Oct'11). I have few specific queries regarding the ILP:

    1. Can I arrange to get ILP in advance ? If yes, for how many days in advance the ILP is issued ?

    2. Can I send all documents/request letter/at per cheque/draft from my place (Haldia, WB) to the DC office at Leh (or any other place in J&K) so as to get an ILP by post ?

    3. We would like to follow the following route to go to Tsomoriri via Hanle from Pangong:

    Tso Pangong-Man-Merak-Chusul-Dungti-Loma-Rhongo-Lekaru-Hanle (overnight stay) and Hanle-Lekaru-Rhongo-Loma-Nyoma-Mahe-Puga-Korzok/Tsomoriri(overnight stay)

    I have contacted one tour operator at Leh for customising my entire trip to Ladakh starting from 04.10.11 upto 13.10.11. They informed me that although they would be arranging the ILP for the entire trip, but they would be unable to do so for going to Hanle since according to them Hanle is not a Tourists Area and it’s a restricted area. They won't get it and also the DC does not have power to issue the permits for the Hanle.

    Request you to guide me to get the permit for going to Hanle from Pangong and back to Tsomoriri.

    4. Do you suggest any accommodation in Hanle? I came to know there are two G.H of PWD & Observatory – is there any way to book the same on 10.10.11 ?

    Would be grateful on receipt of your reply.

    Regards,

    Saugata Mahindar

    • Hello Saugata,

      As Amol said people are indeed very helpful in Leh and it will not take much time to get the permits. Once you reach Leh submit the entire set of documents which you can prepare before leaving for the trip using the article above and visit DC office in the morning, pay the respective fees and get the required permits within 10-15 minutes. If there will be rush the clerk will ask you to come after 2-3 hours within which you can book taxi, explore main market, Leh Palace etc. Please find my answer to your queries in respective order

      1. Yes, you can get permits in advance by sending the details to some travel agent or hotel staff in Leh who can arrange permits for you for Tso Moriri, Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley, Dah Hanu, Batalik etc. i.e. most tourist places. Read reply 3 specific to you. The ILP is not issued in advance rather for the specific period when you are planning to travel in Ladakh.

      2. No DC office do not offer permits in advance. It is rather some travel agent or hotel staff or any other known person in Leh who can get permits on your behalf after you send required documents mentioned above in the article. These travel agents.hotel staff charge about Rs 150 – 250 per person for arranging permits on your behalf. They will keep it ready for you before you reach Leh so that you are ready to move as soon as you reach.

      3. Please keep in mind that in order to get the permits for Changthang Valley that is Pangong Tso to Tso Moriri via Chusul route you need to get the permits yourself. The hotel or travel agents mostly get those permits incorrectly resulting in deporting of travelers from some or the other army checkpost. So, get the permits yourself once you reach Leh. In order to visit this Man – Merak route you need to mention each and every place that comes on the way Spangmik – Man – Merak – Khaltse – Chusul – Tsaga La – Loma – Nyoma – Mahe – Sumdo – Tso Moriri and Hanle of course. The permit for Hanle is issued depending upon the present situation but generally the permit is issued AFAIK.

      4. I guess these are the only place of accommodation I know is rest house of observatory. Currently, I have no idea how to book them, so sorry for that. Once, you reach Leh you can ask the hotel staff or I will search and catch any of my friend who have stayed there, if I can.

      Also, please make sure that you are not accompanied by any foreigner as ONLY Indians are allowed for permits for Changthang Valley (Man – Merak – Chusul – Hanle etc)

      I hope the this helps. Please let me know if you have any queries or doubts.

      Regards,
      Dheeraj Sharma

  157. Hello Mahipal,
    If you are traveling on your own car or taxi which has registration outside Himchal Pradesh then you will need permit to on Manali – Rohtang Pass road. If you are traveling on bike or using the public transport or shared taxis or taxis registered in Himchal Pradesh then you do not require any permits.More information is given on the link: Non – HP Vehicles Need Permit on Manali – Rohtang Pass Road
    Of course being officer in Indian army I guess you may stay in your transit camps setup at many places on Manali – Leh Highway. Also, you may get any required assistance from your fellow army jawans as and when you require from them, I guess.
    I hope this helps. Let me know incase you have any queries.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma

  158. mahipal says:

    im planning to go to Leh Via Manali- Rohtang pass.Can u just tell me whether I need to take any permit for entering Leh from Manali. Also does being an Indian Army Officer helps?

  159. Hi Nitu,
    1. You need to only fill Nubra Valley it will include the other palces as well. And for Pangong Tso you need to mention that onl. but for Tso Moriri and Tso Kar you need to mention both names.
    2. Then you need to mention Agham, Shyok Village, Wari La as well else just mention Pangong Tso. No, they won't object until the format of form is not changed anytime in future. Till date its the same form.
    3. Zingzing Bar to Baralacha La is about 18KMs. No permit required. Present status is bad roads but open. For more details on the distance and altitudes on Manali – Lhe Highway refer the below link –
    Places on Manali – Leh Highway | A Detailed Description
    4. Although I have not been to Zanskar Valley but I guess you may not be able to do it in just two days. It would be hectic I feel as the roads are not so good in Zanskar which makes the progress slow. It takes about 10-12 Hrs for each side.
    Let me know if you have any queries.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj

  160. Nitu says:

    hello dheeraj, its nitu again with a bunch of questions regarding filling up permit application form at Leh.

    Q.1 For Nubra valley i am going to fill up "Khardungla-Hunder-Turtuk-sumur-Panamik", is it ok ?

    Q2 If I want to do Pangong from hunder or panamik via shyok or via wari la subject to open the routes and availability of fuel at Diskit to cover 650/700 KM, what should i mention in app. form ?

    otherwise, what should i mention in app. form to do via normal route of leh- karu-changla-pangong & back ?

    i dont think they will object on downloaded and comp. filled form.

    Q3 Baralacha la to Zingzing Bar- distance ? permit required? present status?

    Q4 kargil-Padum, Padum Kargil 245+245 doable in two days? keeping in view we 4 are doing this on 4 REs.

    thanks
    Nitu…

  161. Hello Harsh,
    Yes, the updates you have got are reliable buddy and July 2nd is far away. Currently, petrol is being rationed at Tandi petrol pump since the fuel has not started to reach the place, I guess. Once the supply will start I guess the rationing will stop and before you are going we will surely have definitive updates on the same. So, you need not worry much.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj sharma

  162. Harshavardhan says:

    Hey dheeraj.vardhan again.do u have any update

    Regarding petrol at tandi.bcm t have some blogs

    Which say petrol is being rationed.2 lit per bike.

    We r going on 2july.please let me no.

  163. [...] Leh is the main town of Ladakh and acts as the base for every tourist or traveler. Generally, the people reach Leh town first, which is the most populated regions of the Ladakh district and then move on further with the exploration of this cold desert. There are plenty of hotels available in Leh town and tourists book the taxis, accommodation, adventurous activities like trekking, rafting from Leh town only. Changspa road along with Leh main bazaar tops the hot spots in Leh town. The DC office is also located in Leh town and is responsible for issuing the inner line permits to people visiting restricted regions of Ladakh along with other administration activities. Being on the International borders, one need Inner Line permits to visit various restricted places defined in the Ladakh region. You can get more details about Inner Line Permits and tips to speed up the processing of your permits on the following link: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh [...]

  164. [...] To know more about Inner Line Permits read information on the link: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh [...]

  165. Hi Ravi,
    Thanks a lot for liking the info, I hope it helped you in getting information about the inner line permits for Ladakh. Do download the form and complete the formalities at home itself. Then in Leh it will save you much time from running up and down to photocopy shops. Well, yes you can refer the below link for the Ladakh itinerary covering Nubra Valley and Tso Moriri Lakes and the complete loop from Delhi – Srinagar – Leh – Manali – Delhi:
    <a title="Leh Ladakh Sample Itinerary" href="http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/leh-ladakh-sample-itinerary-2/&quot; target="_blank" rel="nofollow"&gt <a href="http://;http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/leh-ladakh-sample-itinerary-2/” target=”_blank”>;http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/leh-ladakh-sample-itinerary-2/
    You may add one or two more days to cover the Pangong Tso lake as well in the above plan. Let me know incase you you want to fine tune it according to your needs. I would be happy to provide my inputs. Just let me know the days in hand with you.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma
     

  166. Ravi kiran says:

    Hey liked ur info on this page . Do you have any travel itinerary to leh-Ladakh . I live in delhi and plan to hire a Royal enfiedl bike and travel by road to ladakh . can you let me know the best itinerary and suggests plans .

    Thanks …

  167. [...] Arrange Inner Line Permits. To know more about Leh Ladakh inner line permits visit the link: Details on Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh [...]

  168. Kamlesh C says:

    Hi,

    Great article! & truly appreciate the pdf ILP form, that certainly saves a lot of time. Thanks a lot again. Keep up the good work.

    Cheers!

    Kamlesh

    • Thanks alot Kamlesh. I am glad that you liked it and the information + the PDF form was useful to you. It will surely save much needed time over there. Using this PDF one need to just get it signed and pay the fees at DC office rather running up-down at photostat shop :)

  169. Hello Amol,
    I hope the information about Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh was of use to you. Regarding hotels in Leh, we stayed in Hotel Chubi (09419242514/01982253456) near Changspa Road for one day and at at Shanti Guest House, Shanti Stupa Road (09419178760/01982253084) for 3 days. While former had nice garden and good food taste, the later had good room conditions. The dampness was less in the rooms of Shanti Guest House, plus the Shanti Stupa and Changspa Road were both very near to it. Changspa Road is very lively, especially in night and offer variety of cuisines. Most of the other hotels were booked and we didn't get any accomodation other than these two. We wanted a decent and economic option of stay and guess Shanti Guest House served its purpose to the best. You can always walk down to Changspa Road if you want much tastier food though.
    We also checked Hotel Asia on Changspa Road (09622958260,01982253403) which had decent rooms though only rooms with shared toilets were available at our time. Hence, we didn't stay over there. There are other options too but I didn't checked them so can't much comment although if I required I can provide contacts of some other Hotels in Leh as well. I am not sure about your budget but there are other luxury hotels in Leh too, which offers far more comfort but they charge handsome too :)
    Let me know in case you need more info.
    Regards,
    Dheeraj Sharma

  170. Amol Shivarkar says:

    Thanks a lot. Could you please suggest me the good hotel in Leh, we are around 10 people?

  171. [...] Arrange Inner Line Permits. To know more about Leh Ladakh inner line permits visit the link: Details on Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh [...]

  172. Tweets that mention Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh | DeViL on WheeLs… -- Topsy.com says:

    [...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by Abhijit Singh. Abhijit Singh said: RT @devilonwheeels: All you want to know about Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh http://fb.me/E9khBSmd [...]

 
 

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