The highway runs along side the Indus River and through some extremely harsh and barren terrain including the three high mountain passes named Zozi La (3528 Mtrs), Namki La (3815 Mtrs) and Fotu La (4108 Mtrs). In any case, Srinagar – Leh highway offers some breathtaking landscapes ornamented by various historical and cultural constructions which are just like a dream treat for any traveler driving/riding through Srinagar – Leh Highway.

Generally, people traveling or flying directly to Leh – Ladakh suffers from acute mountain sickness as Leh (3500 Mtrs) due to sudden disturbance of altitude with which the body is adapted. However, Srinagar – Leh highway provides a gradual ascent to travelers thus helps them fight any chances of acute mountain sickness (AMS) caused due to high altitudes and let them enjoy the beautiful vistas in relaxed manner.

Season to Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway

The 434 KM long Srinagar Highway generally remains closed for about 6 months in an year starting from November to May due to heavy snowfall on the mountain passes mainly Zozi La pass. Zozi La pass starts receiving snowfall in the month of November and then any day of November (generally 15th November officially) the highway ceases to close officially as it becomes extremely difficult for BRO to clear the snow. Then, again as the winter months resides, the BRO guys begins the snow clearance process in spring season that is in March and repair the damaged roads, bridges and other parts of the highway. Finally, after completing this rigorous job of snow clearance and fixing the roads, bridges etc BRO announces the opening of Srinagar – Leh Highway generally around mid – May or by June first week.

Hence, the best season to travel Srinagar – Leh Highway is between June to October. In May, if the highway gets open then generally the roads are in really bad shape and only improves as the season progress with constant repair work conducted by BRO. By end of June as the road condition stabilizes the monsoon comes to the party in July and creates havoc in lower hills connecting Srinagar to Jammu and further to other parts of India. The landslides are almost inevitable in monsoon season which causes road blockages ever now and then. The Amarnath Yatra being in full flow in July – August, do expect heavy traffic and rush from Jammu – Srinagar – Kargil parts of highway. Even the dominance of armed forces also increase in July – August owing to the security of pilgrims of Amarnath Yatra.

It is almost a nightmare to drive through Zozi La Pass in July – August especially when its raining or has rained previous days but at any day better than Rohtang Pass on Manali – Leh Highway which becomes more than hell during monsoon season. One should always avoid Srinagar – Leh Highway during days alongside Independence Day in India i.e. 15th August which is when the bandhs and strikes gets more active. As the end of August approach, the Amarnath Yatra is over and monsoon starts to reside from Northern India, the conditions improve much more to travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway and in September it could be called as best time to travel but you will not find any snow of course. Even in August and late July snow will be hard to touch except few patches on Zozi La pass.

Since, the other side of Zozila Pass mainly Kargil onwards comes under rain shadow area where only the dry winds of monsoon reach. So, in July – August you need to tackle the monsoon rains and their havoc in lower hills only including Jammu, Srinagar, Zozi La pass i.e. till you reach Kargil where there is very little rain during these months.

Throughout the season, you need to let pass large convoys of army trucks as army also stock up required materials in Leh – Ladakh through Srinagar – Leh road majorly. This may cause delay of few hours every now and then in your entire journey on Srinagar – Leh highway.

Modes of Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh

Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is to live the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India. You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding through slushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks of your vehicle prior to the start of this comparatively less arduous journey than Manali – Leh Highway.

For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seen hatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Srinagar – Leh Highway than on Manali – Leh Highway. If you want to try your sedan or hatch back drive to Ladakh then Srinagar – Leh Highway is better bet when compared to taking a sedan or hatch from Manali – Leh Highway. However like on Manali – Leh Highway, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution even at Srinagar – Leh Highway and especially around Zozila pass (ascend and descend both).

You get less number of challenges on Srinagar – Leh Highway as compared to Manali – Leh Highway with only major hurdle being Zozila Pass. However even then, whenever you are in doubt, always step out of your car, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the path of exit before crossing a dangerous landslide or water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside and see how others are crossing the risky section to plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try to maintain the momentum without any half clutch measures and complete the entire stretch in one go only. Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issue rather keep the smooth momentum with required speed to pass you through, without half clutch measures. Do keep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you get stuck in slush then try to back and forth your vehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to ask your fellow co-travelers to get out of the car and push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling to pass through the slush or water crossing stretch.

Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three "2 ltr" empty bottles of pepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak), funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, M-seal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, do not forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. This will ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches that may have been introduced in that service

Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are only allowed for a drop in Leh – Ladakh. As per the taxi union rules only taxis with Ladakh number are only allowed to roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing purposes. If you want to travel within Leh – Ladakh in your private taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that case you need to hire a taxi with private number plate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queries by the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or police constables on your route. You need to ensure everyone interrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.

If you can get hold of some taxi driver in Ladakh then hire that taxi only else go to Kargil first and change taxi from there. From Kargil, the Ladakh taxi driver can pick you and you will have the advantage to cover the sightseeing places en-route Leh on Srinagar – Leh Highway like Alchi, Basgo, Likir etc before you reach Leh. If that is not your plan then hire a direct taxi from Srinagar to Leh but with taxi hired with Srinagar number plate you will not be able to do sightseeing en-route especially Sham Valley, as far as I know.

To hire a taxi, go directly to Srinagar taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh. Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 1200-1500 extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 9000 to Rs 12000 for a drop to Leh from Srinagar with one night halt, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and the time of the year you are visiting.

Srinagar – Leh Bus Service, JK SRTC and Others | Economical mode of travel

JK SRTC ply buses on Srinagar – Leh Highway which are available at Srinagar Bus Stand near Lal Chowk and near Polo Ground in Leh. I guess JK SRTC have both standard as well as semi-deluxe buses which run Srinagar – Leh Highway with cost of about Rs 500 – Rs 600 for Standard bus and Rs 600 – Rs 700 for semi-deluxe types. There are also few private bus operators running semi-deluxe buses between Srinagar – Leh who charge about Rs 800 – Rs 900 per seat.

These buses generally stop at Kargil for the night and Sonamarg for tea and snacks. The JK SRTC buses may not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price. The buses leaves Srinagar around 5 AM and Leh around 6 AM, I guess.

Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Srinagar and reaches Leh on next evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Srinagar as well.

You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1500 per person for a drop to Leh from Srinagar or a drop to Srinagar from Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 7-8 other people plus the driver and completes the back braking cannon ball run of Srinagar – Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one is the second cheapest mode of travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on the body too

Also, not staying at Kargil will mean less acclimatization which may make you feel a bit sick in the first few days when you reach Leh.

Other travel modes

You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Srinagar who also runs their private buses or Tempo Travelers on Srinagar – Leh Highway.

Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway in one of the following ways –

Two Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali – Leh Highway due to the limited civilization but on the Srinagar – Leh Highway you get the respite as there are plenty of civilized places enroute and you get to find accommodation either one or the other place. You will find accommodation option ever 70-80 odd KMs on an average. But still, a two day journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway is the most common among all travelers as you tend to see the beauty in relaxing manner as well as you help your body to accilimatize to the altitude of Leh. Private Taxis and buses run by JK SRTC also cover the Srinagar – Leh Highway in two days with night halt at Kargil. Mostly, people break up the journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway in the following ways over a span of two days -

Srinagar – Kargil / Drass (Day 1) and Kargil / Drass – Leh (Day 2)

This option is mostly preferred by people as it evenly distributes the travel time of the entire journey in two days. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in the morning if you are interested to stop at every other point to take pictures and still reach Leh in time .

Personally, out of Kargil or Drass you shall prefer to stay at Kargil due to varied options of accommodation available at Kargil. But, many a times finding vegetarian food becomes difficult in Kargil in the late evening and hence, you can opt to stay at Drass which does offer a few accommodation options. The distance between Drass – Kargil is about 60 KMs only which means about 2 hours of more travel time on next day.

If you are a vegetarian then most likely, what you can do is that if you are reaching Drass by about evening then its good to take your dinner there and reach Kargil by the late evening or early night time. May be a tea or coffee with some biscuits will make you feel good for rest of the night. It will surely help rather than sleeping without vegetarian food due its unavailability in Kargil

One Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar – Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Srinagar – Leh in single day is mostly common among local people or people who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are the preferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this back braking, cannon ball run of 15-16 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as the mind of an average traveler. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amount of altitudes in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or some severe headaches and for initial days spent in Leh. Of course, this is true incase you have not stayed overnight in Gulmarg or Pahalgam or Sonamarg on previous nights of your tour. Doing in a single day, may certainly kill the joy of the journey.

Three Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar –  Kargil/Drass (Day 1) and  Kargil/Drass  – Lamayuru/Alchi (Day 2) and Lamayuru/Alchi – Leh (Day 3)

Well, by extending the journey of Srinagar – Leh Highway in three days, you give yourself a chance to explore the sightseeing places en-route thoroughly. There are many tourist destinations in Ladakh region which are situated on Srinagar – Leh Highway and requires time if you really wish to explore them. Hence, by extending the journey with one day you give your self ample of time to explore these tourist places before you reach Leh. For more details on sightseeing refer section: Sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway, below in the article.

Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money. If these two things have no place for consideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway much more than a memorable experience . I guess the comparison of night halts (Drass/Kargil) is already done in first option, so opt as per your taste.

This option will mostly be available, if you are traveling by your own vehicle. To be very frank, this option is not even available if you are hiring a private Srinagar registered taxi as well because Srinagar registered taxi are not allowed for local sightseeing in Ladakh region especially Sham Valley where all these tourist places are present. In such a case you need to book a taxi to Kargil first from Srinagar and then hire yourself a taxi from Kargil to Leh or you need to hire a Ladakh registered number taxi. Confirm in advance from the driver if he will do sightseeing for Sham Valley before booking it. Then, in next two days after covering all tourist destinations including Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Redzong, Alchi, Likir, Sham Valley etc on the route you can reach Leh.

Staying one night at Alchi, which is lower in altitude than Leh, also make sure that your body is much more acclimatized to the altitude of Leh and you enjoy a lot better conditions once you reach Leh after a stay at Kargil and Alchi on previous nights.

Alternate Route to Leh from Kargil via Batalik and Dah

There exist an alternate route to reach Leh once you reach Kargil which is a bit more scenic than the usual route. The usual route goes like Kargil – Mulbekh – Lamayuru – Leh and the alternate, less used route goes like Kargil – Batalik – Dah – Skurbuchan – Leh.

Please make a note that the route via Batalik requires you to get the Inner Line Permits from either DC Office Kargil or DC Office Leh. So, I will advise that you go to Leh from Kargil via Lamayuru following the usual route and then you can come back to Kargil via Batalik after getting the permits from Leh DC office at the time you apply permits for Ladakh sightseeing places like Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso etc. If you are returning via Manali – Leh Highway then you need to take permits from Kargil DC Office to go via Batalik route and thereby miss the usual route to Leh which goes via Lamayuru.

Sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Well, while traversing this beautiful road of Srinagar – Leh Highway you also give yourself a chance to visit the following places either on the route or with little diversions from the route -

Maitrey at Mulbek, Lamayuru Monastery, Lunar Landscape, Redzong Monastery,  Alchi Monastery, Likir Monastery, Basgo Palace, Confluence at Nimmu, Magnetic Hills, Pathar Sahib Gurudwara, Phyang Monastery, Spituk Monastery.

You need to give yourself time to explore these places especially Lamayuru, Alchi and Likir monasteries. Hence, if you plan to cover these sightseeing places either while going towards Leh from Srinagar or towards Srinagar from Leh, then give yourself at least 3 days to cover the entire Srinagar – Leh route.

List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar – Leh Highway is much better than Manali – Leh Highway in terms of accommodation options it offers and one can find decent place to stay within 125 odd KMs at max. At some places like Mulbekh, Sonamarg, Drass etc the accommodation options could be very limited and basic guest house / home stay types while places like Kargil, Lamayuru does offer varied amount of accommodation options. So, it always better to break the journey at Kargil or Lamayuru but of course there are not much worries for places of stay on Srinagar – Leh Highway than on Manali – Leh Highway. You can also take diversion to the towns of Alchi / Likir for a stay there as well. Of course you will find basic home stay types of accommodation at both Alchi / Likir but it would be a worthwhile experience in any case. Here is the break up of accommodation options available on Srinagar – Leh Highway with distances -

Please keep in mind that Alchi and Likir are not exactly on Srinagar – Leh Highway and you need to take diversions near Sasapol, I guess, for either of them. The distance between Alchi – Likir is about 18 – 20 KMs only.

Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Unlike Manali – Leh Highway, the journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway goes through gradual increase in altitude thereby helping our body to get acclimatized properly for the altitude of Leh. That is why going through Srinagar – Leh Highway is always preferred for road trip to Ladakh than going via Manali – Leh Highway. By going to Leh – Ladakh from Srinagar – Leh Highway, one gives himself a chance to properly acclimatize to the high altitudes there by decreasing the chances of being hit by AMS. In the return leg, you can go via Leh – Manali Highway so that your body is properly acclimatized by the time you under take the varied high altitudes on that route. This helps you enjoy the Manali – Leh highway in a better way as well.

Having said that even on Srinagar – Leh Highway its always good that you take little precautions to further minimize the effects of high altitude  sickness. Here are some tips which will help acclimatizing the body faster

For more information on Acute Mountain Sickness and all above acclimatization tips, please refer the following link at least once: Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization

Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Again, unlike Manali – Leh Highway, it is easy to find fuel or petrol on Srinagar – Leh Highway. One can get fuel or petrol on Srinagar Leh Highway at:  Srinagar, Mangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha,  Khaltsi, Leh

ATMs on Srinagar – Leh Highway

As per my knowledge there are ATMS available at Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil, Sasapol apart from Leh and Srinagar ATMs. I guess you should carry enough cash with you in Ladakh because ATMs at these limited places can run out of money or become un-operational at any day or time.

Places on Srinagar – Leh Highway with their Distances and Altitudes

Generally, the places of on Srinagar – Leh Highway majorly goes like Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil – Mulbekh – Namika La – Fotu La – Lamayuru – Khaltsi – Sasapol – Nimmu – Leh and the approximate distances between these places is shown below briefly -

Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Conclusion

Have you ever been to Srinagar – Leh Highway? If yes, please share your view points, suggestions or inputs as comments below, it will help other fellow travelers to plan their own journey on one of the beautiful highways of India. Are you planning to go to Ladakh via Srinagar – Leh Highway? If yes, please feel free to ask any queries or doubts you have regarding the same as comments below. I will be happy to reply and discuss them with you. Looking forward for your responses

Deoria Tal, at an altitude of 2,438 Mtrs, is a calm and serene lake famous for its mesmerizing reflections of Chaukhamba Range in the crystal clear water. In the night, the density of stars on offer in the sky is such large that it makes you forget everything else.

Ukhimath is located about 8-10 KMs from Kund. Ukhimath holds extreme importance in Uttarakhand because the deity of Kedarnath is shifted in winters here.

Location

Deoria Tal is located at a trekking distance of about 2 KMs from Sari Village and comes under Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand. Sari Village is located about 13 KMs ahead of Ukhimath.

Altitude

Altitude of Deoria Tal is about 2,438 Mtrs or 7,435 Feet.

Season to Travel to Deoria Tal

Best time to travel or visit Deoria Tal is March to May and October to November. In winters i.e December – January, when the snowfall starts the nights at Deoria Tal are extremely chilly and is only advisable if you are OK with surviving temperatures well below freezing point. Even June – July are hot when the sun is out but shades and night are a bit cooler though.

Monsoon season is generally not a suggested time period to visit the region of Chopta – Tunganath – Chandrashilla – Deori Tal .

If you are visiting the Tunganath and Chandrashilla too, then better read the season to visit section for Tunganath / Chandrashilla Travel guide at the following link: Delhi to Tunganath Temple and Chandrashilla, Uttarakhand | Travel Guide

How to Reach Deoria Tal

By Air

Nearest airport is Jolly Grant, Bhaniawala, Dehradun, 41 KMs from Haridwar. After reaching Haridwar you need to carry rest of the journey by road only. Haridwar to Chopta is about 225 KMs by road.

By Rail

Nearest railway station is at Haridwar. After reaching Haridwar you need to carry rest of the journey by road only. Haridwar to Chopta is about 225 KMs by road.

By Road

Below is the route that needs to be followed to reach Deoria Tal from Delhi -

Delhi – Haridwar (212 KMs) – Rishikesh – Dev Prayag – Srinagar – Rudra Prayag (take left towards Kedarnath) – Agustmuni – Syal Saur – Kund – Ukhimath – Sari Village (415 KMs) – Deoria Tal

One needs to drive about 12 KMs to Sari Village from Ukhimath and from Sari Village one can reach Deoria Tal by a trek route of 2 KMs approx. There is no motorable road to Deoria Tal. The trek is a paved path from Sari Village up to Deoria Tal, although it is quite steep at some places. There are many rest houses or shelters on the trek with benches to take some rest and restore your breath. Normally, it will take about 60-80 minutes to trek up to Deoria Tal and if you have good stamina you can even complete it in 40-50 minutes . Anyhow the descend is pretty fast for everyone.

Road Conditions

When I visited, overall the road conditions were not that bad. In between Dev Prayag and Srinagar the road is quite dusty and at some places in poor shape. It slightly improves after Srinagar and up to Rudra Prayag with few bad sections. After Rudra Prayag the road condition further improves upt o Agustmuni. You can cruise as you like after Agustmuni as the roads are in best of shape up to Chopta.

Preferred Vehicles

Almost any vehicle (car/bike) in perfect running condition can take you to Chopta from where the trek to Tunganath and Chandrashilla starts.

Suggested Itinerary for Tunganath / Chandrashilla

Day 1 – Delhi to Syal Saur, GMVN

I would suggest that on day one you prefer to stay at Syal Saur, GMVN, Ph. 9536384724 (15 odd KMs before Ukhimath) right on the banks of River Mandakini. Unlike suggested below, if you plan to visit Deoria Tal on Day 2 then staying at Syal Saur will take a bit of time out from Day 2 as well and help you not get bored at Deoria Tal in the afternoon. The evening and early morning views along with night stars is what you will be more interested into at Deoria Tal. But, in case you do not opt to stay here (which I won’t suggest), then do halt here for a cup of tea on the way back on Day 4 or even Day 1. You will get a very good view of Kedarnath Peaks over calmly running Mandakini river.

Day 2 – Syal Saur to Chopta to Tunganath to Chandrashilla

This day you can utilize to go towards Tungnath to see snow (if in winters) and capture beautiful sunset near Chopta meadow. You will also find lots of beautiful birds there, especially, Magpie, enroute Chopta. There will be lots of red colored flowers around April – May, I guess Rotadendrum is the name. In our case, we reached at 5 PM at Sari Village in the evening on Day 1 and hiked in the evening to stay overnight at Deoria Tal which gave us a day extra to trek to Tunganath easily and at comfort. Hence, start early morning from Syal Saur by 7 AM, say, to complete the Tunganath – Chandrashilla trek in that day. Stay overnight at Duggalbitta or Chopta or Ukhimath.

Day 3 – Chopta or Duggalbitta or Ukhimath to Sari Village to Deoria Tal

In the first half of the day, you can even go towards Ukhimath and visit the local temples. After having lunch, you move towards Sari Village and trek to Deoria Tal to enjoy the sunset. Keep in mind it will take about 1.5 Hrs to trek for a normal person to complete the trek. So, start by 3 PM so as not to miss the sunset reflections. Stay overnight at Deoria Tal. The road only goes to Sari Village and hence, you need to park the car at Sari Village. Call Mr. Hira Singh Negi (09410241543) few days before so that he can book the room for you at Deoria Tal, FRH or arrange tents for you with proper bedding. He will be available for you near BSNL tower at Sari Village. The FRH caretaker will also charge you some fees for entry to Deoria Tal, give him just the tip … he will be more than happy.

Day 4 – Deoria Tal To Sari Village to Delhi

Enjoy the early morning reflections of Chowkhamba range in Deoria Tal and have your breakfast. On the way back check the local temple of Sari Village as well. After getting down start the journey towards Delhi. You can opt for dinner at Bikano or Moolchand Resorts or Cheetal, all near Mujjaffar Nagar. If you forget the cut to Cheetal you may miss by running over a flyover, hence do not miss that turn from the highway, if you like Cheetal.

You can also check the itinerary which I prepared for myself and followed to some extent only, at the below link: Itinerary | Chopta – Tunganath – Chandrashilla – Deoria Tal

Accommodation Options at Deoria Tal

Syal Saur

I will always prefer to stay at Syal Saur, GMVN (Ph. 9536384724) whenever I will be visiting the region next time at least either on the first day or on the last day. It is right next to Mandakini River and an awesome place to spend the evening.

Ukhimath

Nearest GMVN is at Ukhimath for winters, 25-27 KMs before Chopta from where the trek to Tunganath and Chandrashilla starts. Ccontact or phone number for Ukhimath, GMVN is 9568006692. The care taker is Umeid. Ask him to give rooms at discounted rates. 550 was the price for double-bed room and you can always ask him regarding further discounts by letting him know upfront that you won’t need any GMVN bill …

Sari Village and Deoria Tal

For stay options at Deoria Tal contact Mr. Hira Singh Negi (09410241543) for camps or tents. He may even book the rooms of FRH at Deoria Tal for you as well. A very nice person who runs his Dhabha there and he cooks good too at such a place. You can pay him whatever you feel like, it will be a great help for the old fellow. We paid him Rs 500 per person for a night stay in the tents which included breakfast and dinner with tea and coffee and mineral water bottles.

There are two tents that have proper beds in them, so you need not sleep in the sleeping bags. There are a lot of quilts avaliable to beat the cold.

You can even plan to stay at Sari Village but there are only limited options available. Hence, I will suggest that either stay at Deoria Tal or go to Ukhimath or Chopta / Duggalbitta for a stay.

Duggalbitta, Chopta and Tunganath

Check accommodation option for Duggalbitta, Chopta and Tunganath at the following link:Delhi to Tunganath Temple and Chandrashilla, Uttarakhand | Travel Guide

Special Notes

There is no electricity at Duggalbitta, Chopta, Tunganath and Deoria Tal. But, Sari Village does have electricity.

Food Joints near Deoria Tal

I am not sure of any famous food joint at the place and you will either be eating in the hotel or some dhabha in the day whicle you are on excursions, as we did on our trip. There are two Dhabhas at Deoria Tal.

Phone Signals at Deoria Tal

Phone facility and electricity is not available at Deoria Tal. Mobile signals for Airtel and Vodafone was not much at Deoria Tal but BSNL and IDEA was working fine. You may find a bit poor connectivity in between at Deoria Tal.

Petrol Pumps near Deoria Tal

Nearest Petrol Pump is at Kund about 7-8 KMs before Ukhimath. I will suggest that you top-up the fuel either at Srinagar or Rudra Prayag.

ATMs near Deoria Tal

Although there are number of ATMs on the route as well and we used Chandrapuri ATM which comes after Agustmuni and before Syal Saur. Chandrapuri ATM is the closest ATM because I guess there is no ATM present at Ukhimath.

Important Places around Deoria Tal with Distances

Local Sightseeing

There are locale temples of Usha and Anirudh, Shiva and Parvati at Ukhimath which are worth visiting too.

Chopta, Tunganath Temple and Chandrashilla are nearby Deoria Tal which can be included in the trip. For more details check the Travel Guide for these places at the following link:

Personal Travelogues

Conclusion

It is a great place to go if you really like to see the raw beauty of Himalayas and camp there. Just visit and witness the enchanting views of Chowkhamba range at dusk and dawn, you won’t regret at all. Please share your views or experience or suggestions etc as I would wait for your comments.

Tunganath temple, at an altitude of 3680 Mtrs, is considered to be the highest temple of Lord Shiva and is one of the Panch (Five) Kedars. Madhmaheshwar, Tunganath, Rudranath and Kalpnath with Kedarnath form the Panch Kedar and considered as the five most important temples of Lord Shiva in Garhwal Himalayas.

Chandrashilla, at an altitude of 4000 Mtrs, is highest point of the mountain on which Chopta and Tunganath are situated. Chandrashilla offers 270 degree views of the Himalayan range and is located 1.5 KMs further upwards from Tungnath Temple which makes it a 5 KMs trek from Chopta.

Chopta is situated at an altitude of 2600 Mtrs in Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand and is well known as a base point for a trek to Tunganath Temple and further to Chandrashilla peak. But, Chopta itself offers a beautiful snow meadow in winters locally called as Chopta Bhugyal (bhugyal meaning meadow).

The place is extremely rich in Flora and Fauna and you can find lots of species of birds around Chopta and Tunganath region.

Location

Tunganath Temple is located at a trekking distance of 3.5 KMs from Chopta and comes under Rudraprayag district of Uttarakhand. Chandrashilla peak is further 1.5 KM ahead of the temple.

Altitude

Altitude of Tunganath Temple is 3,680 Mtrs or 11,220 Feet and that of Chopta is 2600 Mtrs or 7,925 Feet. Chandrashilla Peak is further ahead at an altidue of 4,000 Mtrs or 12,192 Feet.

Season to Travel to Tunganath / Chandrashilla

Best time to travel or visit to Tunganath Temple is April – November (exclude monsoon). In winters i.e December – February, when the snowfall starts the Tunganath becomes inaccessible. Soon, Chopta also gets snow bound and gets cut-off from the rest of the valley. As the end of February approach, the snow starts to melt around Chopta, Duggalbitta and Baniya Kund which creates a ray of hope for people looking for Snow Trek to Tunganath / Chandrashilla and experience some real adventure. However, be ready to trek more than 6-7 KMs on either side as the roads to Chopta are not accessible almost till March (mid) from December (after snowfall).

So, if you are looking for abundance of snow then February (Mid) to March is the ideal time but be ready to snow trek to Chopta from Duggalbitta or Baniya Kund as the road to Chopta do not open up to March (Mid). If there is plenty of snow on the trek to Tunganath it is sometimes difficult to climb and complete the trek. It is also worth noting that you may need a guide too if you are doing a snow trek to Tunganath.

If you are interested in Chandrashilla as well then better make your plans post April (mid) because the amount of snow becomes huge after crossing Tunganath Temple in these months. December to March, Chandrashilla may not be possible at all subject to the amount of snow present and should only be attempted if you are an experienced trekker.

Since, the roads are not be accessible in winters (December to March (mid)) and the options of stay at Chandrashilla and Tunganath are none, you will need to come back to either Duggalbitta or Ukhimath for overnight stay. Hence, do not take any chance and move further, if you feel that you won’t return back from Chandrashilla / Tunganath before the sun goes down.

Monsoon season is generally not a suggested time period to visit the region of Chopta – Tunganath – Chandrashilla – Deori Tal.

How to Reach Tunganath / Chandrashilla

By Air

Nearest airport is Jolly Grant, Bhaniawala, Dehradun, 41 KMs from Haridwar. After reaching Haridwar you need to carry rest of the journey by road only. Haridwar to Chopta is about 225 KMs by road.

By Rail

Nearest railway station is at Haridwar. After reaching Haridwar you need to carry rest of the journey by road only. Haridwar to Chopta is about 225 KMs by road.

By Road

Below is the route that needs to be followed to reach Deoria Tal from Delhi -

Delhi – Haridwar (212 KMs) – Rishikesh – Dev Prayag – Srinagar – Rudra Prayag (take left towards Kedarnath) – Agustmuni – Syal Saur – Kund – Ukhimath – Duggalbitta – Baniya Kund – Chopta (448 KMs) – Tunganath – Chandrashilla

Vehicles can go up to Chopta only and you need to trek about 3.5 KMs from Chopta to reach Tunganath. If you are interested in Chandrashilla, you need to further trek about 1.5 KMs from Tunganath to reach the Chandrashilla peak. There is no motorable road to Tunganath and Chandrashilla. The trek is a paved path from Chopta up to Tunganath temple and from there on to Chandrashilla it is not paved but track exists. People generally complete the trek to Tunganath (without snow) in about 2-3 hours and to Chandrashilla in about 3-5 hours from Chopta. However, the presence of snow on the trek, scripts a different story altogether. The time and feasibility of trek then depends entirely upon the amount of snow present on the trek and the weather on the particular day.

Road Conditions

When I visited, overall the road conditions were not that bad. In between Dev Prayag and Srinagar the road is quite dusty and at some places in poor shape. It slightly improves after Srinagar and up to Rudra Prayag with few bad sections. After Rudra Prayag the road condition further improves upt o Agustmuni. You can cruise as you like after Agustmuni as the roads are in best of shape up to Chopta.

Preferred Vehicles

Almost any vehicle (car/bike) in perfect running condition can take you to Chopta from where the trek to Tunganath and Chandrashilla starts.

Suggested Itinerary for Tunganath / Chandrashilla

Day 1 – Delhi to Syal Saur, GMVN

I would suggest that on day one you prefer to stay at Syal Saur, GMVN, Ph. 9536384724 (15 odd KMs before Ukhimath) right on the banks of River Mandakini. But, in case you do not opt to stay here (which I won’t suggest), then do halt here for a cup of tea on the way back on Day 4 or even Day 1. You will get a very good view of Kedarnath Peaks over calmly running Mandakini river…

Day 2 – Syal Saur to Chopta to Tunganath to Chandrashilla

This day you can utilize to go towards Tungnath to see snow (if in winters) and capture beautiful sunset near Chopta meadow. You will also find lots of beautiful birds there, especially, Magpie, enroute Chopta. There will be lots of red colored flowers around April – May, I guess Rotadendrum is the name. In our case, we reached at 5 PM at Sari Village in the evening on Day 1 and hiked in the evening to stay overnight at Deoria Tal which gave us a day extra to trek to Tunganath easily and at comfort. Hence, start early morning from Syal Saur by 7 AM, say, to complete the Tunganath Chandrashilla trek in that day. Stay overnight at Duggalbitta or Chopta or Ukhimath after completing the trek.

Day 3 – Chopta or Duggalbitta or Ukhimath to Sari Village to Deoria Tal

In the first half of the day, you can even go towards Ukhimath and visit the local temples. After having lunch, you move towards Sari Village and trek to Deoria Tal to enjoy the sunset. Keep in mind it will take about 1.5 Hrs to trek for a normal person to complete the trek. So, start by 3 PM so as not to miss the sunset reflections. Stay overnight at Deoria Tal. The road only goes to Sari Village and hence, you need to park the car at Sari Village. Call Mr. Hira Singh Negi (09410241543) few days before so that he can book the room for you at Deoria Tal, FRH or arrange tents for you with proper bedding. He will be available for you near BSNL tower at Sari Village. The FRH caretaker will also charge you some fees for entry to Deoria Tal, give him just the tip … he will be more than happy.

Day 4 – Deoria Tal To Sari Village to Delhi

Enjoy the early morning reflections of Chowkhamba range in Deoria Tal and have your breakfast. On the way back check the local temple of Sari Village as well. After getting down start the journey towards Delhi. You can opt for dinner at Bikano or Moolchand Resorts or Cheetal, all near Mujjaffar Nagar. If you forget the cut to Cheetal you may miss by running over a flyover, hence do not miss that turn from the highway, if you like Cheetal.

You can also check the itinerary which I prepared for myself and followed to some extent only, at the below link: Itinerary | Chopta – Tunganath – Chandrashilla – Deoria Tal

Accommodation Options at Tunganath / Chandrashilla

Syal Saur

I will always prefer to stay at Syal Saur, GMVN (Ph. 9536384724) whenever I will be visiting the region next time at least either on the first day or on the last day. It is right next to Mandakini River and an awesome place to spend the evening.

Ukhimath

Nearest GMVN is at Ukhimath for winters, 25-27 KMs before Chopta from where the trek to Tunganath and Chandrashilla starts. Ccontact or phone number for Ukhimath, GMVN is 9568006692. The care taker is Umeid. Ask him to give rooms at discounted rates. 550 was the price for double-bed room and you can always ask him regarding further discounts by letting him know upfront that you won’t need any GMVN bill …

Duggalbitta

I guess there is a Rest House of GMVN at Duggalbitta as well, confirm from Ukhimath, GMVN for the food and the electricity in winters. Hotel Mayadeep is also a good place to stay at Duggalbitta. If you think you can shell some money for more comfortable and knowledgeable stay then perhaps, Magpie Camps at Duggalbitta may suit your needs.

For stay at Hotel Mayadeep, Duggalbitta, you can talk to Dinesh at 09410115787 for the bookings. We couldn’t stay there due to bad weather, so we opted for GMVN, Ukhimath only but that is in opposite direction from Chopta – Tunganath – Chandarshilla, if you are at Sari Village or Deoria Tal

Chopta and Tunganath

The limited accommodation options at Chopta are only open when there is no snow or road is open either from Gopeshwar side or Ukhimath side. April – November is the best bet, you will find them open. There are few guest houses and dhabhas at Chopta.

Even Tunganath does have 1-2 guest houses as well. One of them is the GMVN rest house, I guess.

Sari Village and Deoria Tal

Check accommodation option for Sari Village and Deoria Tal at the following link: Delhi to Deoria Tal, Uttarakhand | Travel Guide

Special Notes

There is no electricity at Duggalbitta, Chopta, Tunganath and Deoria Tal. If you think you will need electricity then do confirm with the hotels or guest houses at these places if they have a generators or not. Mayadeep hotel at Duggalbitta may run the generator for you.

In winters, there is no accommodation at Chopta or Tunganath which you will find open. When there is ample of snow even Duggalbitta is hard to reach.

Food Joints near Tunganath / Chandrashilla

I am not sure of any famous food joint at the place and you will either be eating in the hotel or some dhabha in the day while you are on excursions, as we did on our trip.

Phone Signals at Tunganath / Chandrashilla

We couldn’t find any signals of Phone on the trek to Tunganath and Chandrashilla. Nearby Chopta, the phone signals were present but with very poor connectivity. There is no issue of Phone connectivity on the entire route before Duggalbitta. We had BSNL, Airtel and Idea connections with us.

Petrol Pumps near Tunganath / Chandrashilla

Nearest Petrol Pump is at Kund about 7-8 KMs before Ukhimath. I will suggest that you top-up the fuel either at Srinagar or Rudra Prayag.

ATMs near Tunganath / Chandrashilla

Although there are number of ATMs on the route as well and we used Chandrapuri ATM which comes after Agustmuni and before Syal Saur. Chandrapuri ATM is the closest ATM because I guess there is no ATM present at Ukhimath.

Important Places around Tunganath / Chandrashilla with Distances

Local Sightseeing

There are locale temples of Usha and Anirudh, Shiva and Parvati at Ukhimath which are worth visiting too.

Deoria Tal and Sari Village are nearby Chopta, Tunganath Temple and Chandrashilla which can be included in the trip. For more details check the Travel Guide for these places at the following link: Delhi to Deoria Tal, Uttarakhand | Travel Guide

Personal Travelogues

Conclusion

It is a great place to go if you really like to see the raw beauty of Himalayas.

Planning a Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

In order to help you plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway, you can refer the below link which will explain you complete details about how you can plan your journey on Manali – Leh Highway. The below link includes the information regarding best season to travel on Manali – Leh Highway, modes of travel on Manali – Leh Highway, public amenities like ATMs, Petrol Pumps, Liquor shops etc on Manali – Leh Highway etc. Refer the link below for details – How to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway

Complete Details of Places on Manali – Leh Highway

If you are interested to know comprehensive details about the places on Manali – Leh Highway then below is the link for such information. The below link includes the information about distance and altitude chart for the places on Manali – Leh Highway along with their description which helps you plan your brief stoppages, night halts, point of interests etc on Manali – Leh Highway. Refer the link below for details – Places on Manali – Leh Highway | A Detailed Description

List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Manali – Leh Highway

Its always better to know or have the list of all accommodation places on Manali – Leh Highway before you travel on it because in such unpredictable terrain you can never predict what can come to your rescue. So, having as much details as possible about the place is always favorable. I have complied the list of accommodation or stay options on Manali – Leh Highway at the below link which includes the information about their contacts, location, price range, experiences etc. Refer the link below for details – List of Accommodation Options on Manali – Leh Highway

Importance of Acclimatization on Manali – Leh Highway

Since, you would be traveling above 14000 feet for about 300+ KMs on Manali – Leh Highway its really IMPORTANT for you to understand about acclimatization, its importance and AMS or mountain sickness. Many instances people have been found in doubt weather to take the babies or kids with them to Leh – Ladakh or on Manali – Leh Highway. To answer yuor queries and doubts in such cases, I have complied a brief text on the link below which includes information about AMS, acclimatization and few important TIPS which will help you keep your body better acclimatized and minimize the chances of AMS or mountain sickness, when its safe to take babies or kids to Leh – Ladakh and what precautions to take etc. Refer the link below for details – Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization

List of things to carry on Manali – Leh Highway

I have tried to compile a practical list of things to carry while you travel or go on trip. I am sure it will be helpful for you even in case of Manali – Leh Highway too. Refer the link below for details – List of things to carry when you go on trip or travel

As for clothing, its always best to dress up in layers with Inner Thermals both lower and upper always ON. It might irritate in bright sunshine in lower hills but as the altitude increase then it will certainly help in the shades or evenings or mornings or if the weather turn up dark. You need to carry heavy woolens while you travel to Manali – Leh Highway.

Its really IMPORTANT that you carry eateries like dry fruits (must have as backup incase you get stuck), chocolates, some non-perishable food and ample of water to keep each one of you hydrated.

Along with things mentioned in above link, if you are self-driving then you must take the Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three “2 liter” empty bottles of Pepsi / Coke / Limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak), funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), Elfy or Fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, M-seal to prevent leakage etc. These are among the things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh.

Also, do not forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. This will ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches that may have been introduced in that service.

Conclusion

I hope the above information along with dedicated links will help you plan your travel to Manali – Leh Highway in the entirety and hassle free. In case you wish to share your experience or have any suggestions or have any queries then please feel free to leave a comment below and I would be more than happy to respond to it within quick time…

The Manali – Leh Highway makes you experience the raw mother nature present on earth in almost its every form. Technically, BRO takes care of this Highway and they have further divided its responsibility between Project Deepak and Project Himank . Project Deepak is responsible for maintaining the section from Manali to Sarchu(222 KM) in Himachal Pradesh region while Project Himank is responsible for Sarchu to Leh (252.4 KMs) section which falls in Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir region.

Manali – Leh Highway | Altitude over Distance Graph

Click to enlarge.

How to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway

If you need the details on how to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway, you must refer the link : How to plan a trip on Manali – Leh Highway

Places of Manali – Leh Highway

This article is an informatory dissection of all major places that comes on the route from Manali to Leh along with the details of food, fuel, accommodation or stay options, amenities etc on Manali – Leh Highway. I hope this may help you get an idea of what is offered on a journey of Manali – Leh Highway bearing in mind the stoppages of your interest including overnight stays, food, beverages, amenities, photos etc. If you are not interested in much of the text then you may also check the summary of the places in tabular format at the end of the article directly.

Manali | Altitude: 1950 Mtrs – Solang Valley | Altitude: 2590 Mtrs

Manali, about 570 KM from Delhi, is the place from where this life time journey begins. Manali, the valley of gods is lush green at the time when you would be doing your Leh journey and you will definitely enjoy the weather there. Although, in May – June due to holiday rush this place is not a penny less than the chaotic trade fair and I am sure you will not want to be at this place in such a tourist rush. Being said that, you can do a lot in Manali town and for comprehensive details including how to reach Manali from Delhi, I request you to go through the Manali Travel Guide here: Delhi to Manali, Himachal Pradesh | A Travel Guide

One point worth highlighting here is that if you are on your way to Leh – Ladakh from Manali then avoid staying overnight in Manali town rather stay overnight at Solang Valley, 14 KM away. Why? Manali is at lower altitude than Solang Valley and does not help in acclimatization. Solang Valley does help acclimatize your body to some extent which may help in minimizing the troubles of mountain sickness as you move ahead towards Leh – Ladakh in upcoming days. Solang Valley is further 16 KM ahead of Manali and is much more calmer place as compared to Manali. Solang Valley also offers some majestic views along with adventure activities like parachuting, paragliding, skating and zorbing etc

The only drawback with Solang Valley is that you won’t find as many options for a stay as you can find in Manali. The prices of the hotels in Solang Valley are likely to be on the higher side as compared to the varied economic hotel options available in Manali town. Also, the variety of cuisines will be much less as compared to Manali and mostly you will need to have your food in hotel only. But, the advantage acclimatization and peace definitely outweighs these minor hitches, unless you really want a very very cheap hotel. If you really miss different cuisines and lively place, you can surely spend your day in Manali enjoying the other flavors of the valley and come back to hotel at Solang Valley for night stay.

Technically, Solang Valley is not on Manali – Leh Highway rather one needs to take a left diversion from Palchan and travel further 6 KM to reach Solang Valley. If you have hired a taxi from Manali to Leh, you need to ask the driver upfront to pick you from Solang Valley hotel. If you have opted for a shared taxi / public bus, then you yourself need to reach Palchan, the diversion point on Manali – Leh Highway to get into one of them en-route but that also must have been booked in advance from Manali.

Gulaba

Running through few small villages (Palchan, Kothi) of this beautiful lush green valley you reach Gulaba, 20 KM from Manali. Gulaba is famous as one of the lower winter snow point when the road to Rohtang Pass gets closed. There are only few Dhabhas on Gulaba and no options of stay.

Marhi | Altitude: 3300 Mtrs

After Gulaba, one reaches Marhi which is the highest snow point in winters when road to Rohtang Pass is closed. There are few Dhabhas on Marhi and as well as there is a liquor shop as well . There are no stay options apart from those temporary Dhabhas.

Rani Nala

Few KMs ahead of Marhi you reach Rani Nalla which is a glacier point. This place is famous for its huge snow walls, more than 20 feet high. You can find snow here almost every day of year, may be just year 2010 was an exception. The feeling of going between between these huge walls of snow is impeccable. Of course, if you do not leave early in the day then surely the traffic jam may frustrate you here due to the narrow passage and kill your time. You need to leave as early as possible like 5 AM from Manali to avoid traffic jam on Manali – Rohtang Pass road. In year 2010, the stretch here was in pathetic shape and took many lives due to constant landslides. It is perhaps the last major point on southern portal of Rohtang Pass. No stay or food options are available here.

Rohtang Pass | Altitude: 3980 Mtrs

51 KMs away from Manali town, Rohtang Pass connects the tribal valleys of Lahaul and Spiti to Kullu Valley. This is the hottest Himalayan tourist spot in Northern India and people flood this place in the month of May and June. Do expect heavy tourist rush and traffic jam, if you are late in leaving from Manali. It is closed for more than six months in the winter months due to heavy snowfall. Many people feel the altitude factor after reaching Rohtang Pass with headaches and feeling to puke. So, it better to keep yourself hydrated on the way. You can enjoy food / beverages here but there is no place for accommodation. By the way meaning of Rohtang is “pile of corpses or dead bodies” …

Gramphu | Altitude: 3200 Mtrs

After you descend towards northern portal of Rohtang Pass, you reach Gramphu. At Gramphu, there is a diversion towards right which will lead you to Spiti Valley via Kunzam Pass. If you want to visit Chandratal then you need to take the diversion towards Spiti and once you reach Battal, go straight towards Chandratal. There are no stay or food options at Gramphu. If interested in knowing more about Chandratal then read its travel guide at: Delhi to Chandratal, Himachal Pradesh | A Travel Guide

Khokhsar | Altitude: 3140 Mtrs

Just few KM after Gramphu you reach Khoksar which is the first settlement in the Lahaul Valley of Himachal Pradesh. This place has several Dhabhas where you can enjoy the food, a clean washroom / toilet to freshen up and a PWD rest house. In order to stay at PWD rest house, generally you will need the advance bookings. There are few houses as well in this small village. The Chandra river flows through this place and the views are just amazing from the village.

Sissu | Altitude: 3170 Mtrs

Sissu or Khagling is a small town situated at the right bank of Chandra River in the Lahaul valley of Himachal Pradesh. There is a waterfall on the opposite side of town which, people says, looks spectacular but personally I haven’t seen it.

It has a PWD Rest House but in case you want to stay then do book that in advance else you may not find the accommodation. My personal experience had not been good with getting any accommodation at any of the HP PWD Rest Houses. There are few small dhabhas or food stalls where you can find food, tea/coffee and drinking water as well. You may also get some basic healthcare facilities at the local Primary Health Care center at Sissu town. There is also a helipad that is used for the chopper services and mainly utilized by locales in the winter months when the roads are closed due to heavy snow at Rohtang Pass connecting Kullu – Manali Valley and Kunzam Pass connecting Spiti Valley.

Tandi | Altitude: 2573 Mtrs

At Tandi, you will find the only petrol pump on Manali – Leh Highway after Manali and up to Upshi / Karu or Leh. The next petrol pump is about 365 KMs away towards Leh from Tandi. Hence, it is extremely important that you do not miss this petrol pump to top up the fuel. Apart from being famous for this only petrol pump on Manali – Leh Highway, Tandi is a confluence of Chandra River and Bhaga River. The merged river is called Chandrabhaga River and when it enter Jammu and Kashmir, it is further called Chenab river. The Chandra River originates from Chandratal, Spiti Valley and Bhaga River originates from Suraj Tal or Surya Tal, Lahaul Valley. So, if you have time on hand then do click some pictures of the confluence too.

Keylong | Altitude: 3080 Mtrs

Keylong is the biggest town located on Manali – Leh Highway and is the district/administrative headquarter of Lahaul Valley and Spiti Valley districts of Himachal Pradesh. All the major GOVT. offices of the district are present in Keylong town only. The Keylong town is completely cut off from the outside world in the winter months of November to April, due to heavy snow present at Rohtang Pass. There is a famous Kardang Monastery in Keylong which is the largest and most important monastery of Lahaul district of the Drukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The views from the Keylong town are nice with Bhaga river flowing in between but personally I felt it (Keylong) too boring …

Most people while traveling on Manali – Leh Highway including the HRTC and HPTDC bus services halts for a night stop at Keylong town. There are many options of accommodation (small hotels and guest houses) available at Keylong including the famous HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Circuit House, PWD Rest House, Tourist Bungalow etc. There are few small hotels or guest houses in Keylong town which are right on the Manali – Leh Highway and can be opted for a stay too.

Also, people coming to explore Lahaul Valley including Udaipur, Triloknath Temple etc make Keylong as the base town. There are phone and power connections which can be utilized to call at home, charge mobile or camera batteries. Beyond Keylong you will not not find mobile signal and fixed landline phone except Jispa. Medical facilities are also available at the local hospital and there is also one SBI ATM in Keylong town. So, if you have by chance missed the ATM at Manali to fetch the cash then do not miss this one. At first place, I will say do not miss the Manali ATM but still if you have missed it then try your luck at the Keylong ATM which is the only ATM in reach on Manali – Leh Highway.

Jispa | Altitude: 3320 Mtrs

Jispa, is a small village that is located on the banks of Bhaga River. While coming from Manali side, this is my most preferred place for a night stay and to break the journey on Manali – Leh Highway. The accommodation options present in Jispa are limited as compared to Keylong but if you book them in advance I bet the vistas are worth spending time and money. There is hotel Ibex, a guest house and some camping tents including the Swiss tents which are available as stay options at Jispa. You can get the food as well as beverages here. The village also has a small monastery, a small museum along with numerous trails into the woods which you can explore or how about spending some time on the banks of Bhaga river, for me it’s just amazing. There is a helipad as well in Jispa. Jispa have telephone connection which you may use to call at home or inform someone close because beyond Jispa mobile signals (might have gone already) as well as fixed phones will be hard to find till you cross Upshi or reach Leh.

Darcha | Altitude: 3360 Mtrs

Darcha is a small village that is considered as last northernmost civilized place in Himachal Pradesh. Primarily, everyone traveling on Manali – Leh Highway needs to stop at Darcha police checkpoint and has to register their names with vehicle number in the passerby records. This acts as a record that a person has passed Darcha on his journey on Manali – Leh Highway which is useful in case of rescue like operations (or other purposes as well). Foreigners need to get their passports verified at Darcha police checkpoint. Darcha is also the endpoint of a famous trek which starts from Padum, Zanskar Valley in Ladakh region and of course, you can start the same trek from here as well …

Food / Drinking Water / Beverages (tea/coffee) in dhabhas or road side stalls is available at Darcha. This place also have some tented accommodations and a few people stay overnight at Darcha as well. Darcha does have telephone and power connections, in case you need to call home or charge your phone or camera for one last time before reaching Leh then you may try your luck here as well. I didn’t see any phone here but people do say that the village has the connection even WIKI also say so

Beyond Darcha, the vegetation will start to reduce and the mountains will start to change their colors into dark brown water color paintings that we all used to paint in childhood. Decrease in vegetation also means difficulty in pumping the oxygen and increasing altitude will make it even tougher. This is another reason why you need your body to be acclimatized better and hydrated always on this tough journey. Do not forget to intake good amount of water just to keep your minerals and oxygen correct in the body. It will be best if you can carry ORS diluted water with you all the time and keep sipping it after every half an hour or so.

Deepak Tal | Altitude: 3810 Mtrs

Deepak Tal is a small manmade lake near Patseo having its own charm and is one of the two lakes that comes on Manali – Leh Highway. The still water of the lake offers some very nice reflecting views, almost picturesque from many different angles to all those photography lovers. So, if you are one of those then get ready to shoot some unique angle of your own … You can enjoy a cup of tea or your breakfast at the Dhaba just aside Deepak Tal. Beyond Deepak Tal, you will be at an altitude of more than 14000 feet till you reach about Upshi. So, get ready for some real fun in various ways…

Patseo | Altitude: 3811 Mtrs

After passing through Deepak Tal you will reach Patseo just a couple of KMs ahead. Patseo is a small place where only few army camps are present and they have diverted the road in some weird zigzag manner. Once you reach Patseo the roads deteriorates considerably and there on for about 40-45 KMs till about you pass Baralacha La, you will find some very rough or even washed away roads.

Zingzing Bar | Altitude: 4270 Mtrs

Zingzing Bar is a tiny place with 2-3 tented dhabhas that offers stay options in them. Of course, these dhabhas does offer food and beverages too. If leaving early from Keylong/Jispa and if you are one of those who eat late after waking up then you can mark this place for breakfast as well. This is where the ascent to the mighty Baralacha La pass starts. Just after Zingzing bar, there is a nalla (water crossing) created by the melting snow of Baralacha range. So, do cross this nalla or water crossing early in the morning because in the late noon it becomes barely impossible to cross this violent nalla even by trucks . In such a case, on Manali side, you will either have to stay overnight in the vehicle or Zingzing Bar dhabhas and on the Baralacha La side, you will need to go back to Bharatpur or Sarchu tented accommodations for a night stay or stay in vehicle.

Suraj Tal | Altitude: 4950 Mtrs

Suraj Tal or Surya Tal is the second highest lake in India and 21st highest lake in the world. Amidst in the high hills of Baralacha La range and just below the Baralacha La pass (8 KMs before Baralacha La pass), you will find this beautiful crystal clear aqua colored sacred body of water. Suraj Tal is the source of Bhaga river and remains totally frozen and cut off in the months of winter.

Early in the season i.e. June, you may find this lake to be frozen as well. As the time pass into the summers, surrounded with snow covered peaks and emitting its aqua green color as the base, the Suraj Tal looks simply breathtaking. Do not miss to click few pictures of this amazing high altitude lake in India.

Baralacha La | Altitude: 4890 Mtrs

Baralacha La or Baralacha Pass (La meaning Pass) is second of the five high mountain passes that comes on Manali – Leh Highway. Baralacha La connects Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh to Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir. At the North West base of Baralacha La range, Bhaga river originates from Suraj or Surya Tal and at South East base, Chandra river originates from Chandratal. Yunam river flows on the Sarchu (Ladakh) side of Baralacha La. There is another famous trekking route which goes to Chandra Tal or Chandratal, either starting from or ending at Baralacha La. You will not find any food or water or accommodation at this pass.

After Rohtang Pass, Baralacha Pass is the second major hurdle to cross or open. At least in the early season of Manali – Leh journey, you will certainly witness one or two vehicles either stuck aside or stuck in the middle to traffic jam the road. The ice or snow melting from the slopes, battered by moving traffic either creates deep slush or deep water crossings by washing away the roads. This makes the journey more adventurous and full of challenges on this mighty mountain pass .. The feeling of passing through this particular pass is a feeling of its own kind and I purely loved it

Bharatpur | Altitude: Not Sure and Killing Sarai or Sarchu Sarai | Altitude: 4600 Mtrs

After passing through a small deserted place named Killing Sarai or Sarchu Sarai, you will reach Bharatpur (city) which has 2-3 dhabhas as well as a series of tented accommodation running along side Manali – Leh Highway. Some people do stay overnight at these camps as well. The tents here are cheaper as compared to Sarchu. You can have food / tea / coffee here. Once you cross Bharatpur, after a few KMs you will come across a road straight as an arrow leading towards Sarchu. Your instincts will compel you to rip apart and just zip pass through it. I will suggest to hold on to those instincts as the road is straight but does have lots of bumps in between may be due to loose soil beneath or due to holes dug by Himalayan marmots. All I want to say is that while speeding through that road, do not be too complacent while driving … else ready for some super bumps on the way…

Sarchu | Altitude: 4290 Mtrs

Sarchu, 222 KM away from Manali, is famous for its good tented accommodations on Manali – Leh Highway. At Sarchu, the state changes from Himachal Pradesh to Jammu and Kashmir. Also, the Deepak Project ends and Himank Project starts from Sarchu. At Sarchu, there is a second police checkpoint where you need to register your name again on this epic journey. The entry acts as a record of your arrival up to Sarchu. Sarchu is almost a middle point of the journey on Manali – Leh Highway having good amount of tented accommodation options including the Swiss tents with attached toilets. Hence, many people do consider it for a night halt. People already having the night halt at Keylong or Jispa, usually stops for lunch at Sarchu. It does have few dhabhas (2-3) which offers food and beverages as well.

Sarchu is at high altitude and many people staying overnight here suffer from mountain sickness including sleepless night, severe headaches or vomiting. If you are not properly acclimatized you will surely be one of them, suffering the pinch or punches … While coming from Manali side the body is not properly acclimatized and incase you have not had a night stay at Keylong or Jispa, the body will surely suffer to adapt at such high altitude at night. Hence, even though Sarchu offers good amount of stay options (tented) but it’s always better to avoid a stay at Sarchu over Jispa or Keylong in the same order of preference. However, if you are coming from Leh after spending few nights at higher altitudes then the body is acclimatized to adapt and you can either opt to stay at Sarchu or Pang depending upon your taste of the place.

For more information on Acute Mountain Sickness and acclimatization tips, please refer the following link at least once: Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization

Gata Loops | Altitude: 4190 Mtrs

After 24 KMs from Sarchu, a series of 21 hair pin bends or loops about 7 KMs long, just before Nakee La Pass, will elevate you from an altitude of 4190 Mtrs to 4630 Mtrs. They are called Gata Loops. No food, no fuel and no accommodation is available here.

Nakee La | Altitude: 4740 Mtrs

This one is the third of the five passes that comes on the Manali – Leh Highway. You will not find any soul, food, accommodation or fuel or even trees here … The place is totally deserted.

Lachalung La or Lachulung La | Altitude: 5079 Mtrs

Lachulung La or Lachalung La or Lungalacha La is the second highest pass on the Manali – Leh Highway. Get ready to start feeling some breathlessness from here. You will reach above an altitude of 5000 Mtrs or 16000 feet for the first time on your journey. Again there is no vegetation (also counts for breathlessness too), people, fuel, food, or accommodation

Pang | Altitude: 4600 Mtrs

Pang, is where you really start to see those unique looking soil formations on the mountains and special colors of Ladakh will become more prominent just around Pang and onwards. Pang also has the world’s highest transit camps. Pang has few tented accommodation in Dhabhas for a night stay and one can also enjoy food or beverages on their short stopover at Pang, evening tea may be. One of the Dhabhas also had attached bathroom. Few KMs before Pang, the road runs alongside a river which offers an exciting feeling and some very nice vistas. Pang along with its surrounding areas, does offers some fantastic views to be captured in your camera. Hence, do not miss on the opportunity to record few of them … Pang is at higher altitude than Sarchu which will account for headaches + mountain sickness and offers much lesser accommodation option too. Hence, it is always better to stay at Sarchu which offers the Swiss tents too.

This is the last point where you can find food and accommodation at least before Upshi, which does have very basic and limited guest houses. If you are running late, then at Upshi as well you are likely to be unlucky on accommodation front. Hence, if you think you have gone late and don’t want to carry on till Leh in dark, I will suggest you to stay at Pang only and thoroughly enjoy the rest of the colorful journey in next day’s daylight, it will be totally worth.

Moore Plains | Altitude: 4730 Mtrs

Moore plains or Morey plains are surprisingly, flat bedded plains amidst the highest of hills in the country. They run over a length of about 30-35 KMs. As soon as one reach here, the instincts force people to make their own roads but I request you not to do so because it damages the ecology of the place and disturbs the wildlife. Many of the wild animals live on the water sources present in Moore plains and running the car off the used tracks may damage those scarce sources. Most people make their own road here and try to do all sought of things with their vehicles, including race with other fellow drivers (specially common among taxi drivers). However, these jerks are unaware of the fact that along with risking the damage to the vehicle in loose soil or pot hole in the middle of nowhere they are also disturbing the ecology of the place. So, I request at least you not to do so and respect the mother nature in every term so that it prosper more and more… If you are lucky you may spot a Kiyang (Ladakh wild asses) here and blue sheeps too. Hence, keep your cameras ready for the game

Debring | Altitude: 4835 Mtrs

At Debring, there are few wrecked shelters of road workers may be and some army camps too. There is a road (rough in condition) rather I shall stay dirt track that goes to Tso Kar lake and further to Tso Moriri lake of Ladakh. However, you cannot visit the lakes if you are going from Manali side as you will not be having the inner line permits to visit the lakes. The permits are issued from DC office, Leh or even if you arrange the permits through a travel agent it is not recommended that you attempt a stay at such high altitudes (Tso Moriri: 4595 Mtrs and Tso Kar: 4530 Mtrs) with improper acclimatization. Well, on your return if you have plans to visit Tso Moriri and Tso Kar then you can return via this route. However, the road conditions are bad.

Taglang La or Tanglang La | Altitude: 5328 Mtrs

This is the last and the highest pass on Manali – Leh Highway at a whooping height of 5328 Mtrs or 17582 feet. This pass is also the second highest motorable pass or road in the world, after Khardung La (5602 Mtrs or 18380 feet) which is the highest motorable pass or road in the world. The winds at the pass are freezing cold and the force is such that it will blow you off the cliffs … Sometimes, it’s even hard to stand your ground even. Secondly, the oxygen level per breath decreases considerably and with almost nil vegetation most people suffer breathlessness at this pass. The raging pollution from trucks or oil tankers also accounts for the stoppage being brief, by most people. Don’t be surprised if your head may also spin many rounds at this place, especially when you come from Manali side. While our short stay of 10 minutes, I had almost lost my footing quite a number of times due to that spinning affect at Tangang La (Disorientation or ataxia)… The picture aside the sign board of second highest motorable road in the world, is a must for everyone visiting this mighty pass. No food and no accommodation is present here.

Rumste | Altitude: 4260 Mtrs

As you descend from Taglang La, Rumste is the first settlement you will come across as you enter the Leh valley. It is situated alongside the Indus river and have several tea houses. The road conditions will dramatically improve as you descend from Tanglang La towards Rumste. There will be a point when you will be driving just adjacent to Indus river and you will feel ecstatic, forgetting all about the swaying headaches in the past 3-4 hours. Reaching the place, you will start to breathe a bit better and so as your head will also feel slightly lighter. I started to feel that I have reached my dream destination i.e. Leh . I am not aware or heard of any accommodation or food options which may be available at Rumste apart from some home stay, if the villagers allows you. Secondly, the drive to Leh from Rumste is almost like a drive in plains and you can cover it fast enough. Hence, after clicking the pictures of this small village you better move ahead towards Leh. BTW, the trek to Tso Moirri and Tso Kar and further towards Kibber in Spiti Valley also starts from Rumtse.

Upshi | Altitude: 3480 Mtrs

Upshi has the last police check point where you need to register your name along with vehicle number in the records. This marks either your arrival in Leh town or marks the departure from Leh town in opposite direction. Upshi is a small town from where you can lead to Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes via Chumathang. It does have few hotels or guest houses with food but they are very basic. Upshi and (few KMs ahead) Karu also have a petrol pumps from where generally you need to top up on the return towards Manali from Tso Moriri and Tso Kar lakes route. But, you can ignore it if you are heading to Leh, where you can find the fuel as well. So, overall you can ignore Upshi and head straight to Leh even if gets late.

Leh | Altitude: 3500 Mtrs

Leh, the dream of reaching Ladakh is finally true and if you love this place then the excitement to reach Leh will refresh each of your body part even after a 14-15 hours of strolling journey. It’s better that you give some days to local Leh sightseeing and feel the culture, people, traditions and magical aura of Leh – Ladakh. Main market and Changspa road really rocks, so if you like lively environment then try to get a hotel as close to them as possible. Next day, along with local sightseeing you can also arrange the Inner Line Permits for other destinations you are planning to visit in Leh – Ladakh. If you need more details on Inner Line Permits of Leh – Ladakh then read this article: Inner Line Permits for Leh – Ladakh

Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali – Leh Highway

Facility	Places
Hotel / Guest Houses	Khoksar, Sissu, Gondla, Patseo, Tandi, Keylong (Many options), Jispa, Upshi
Tents / Camps (Dhaba / Swiss / Normal)	Marhi, Jispa, Darcha, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu (Many options), Pang
Food / Beverages	Marhi, Rohtang Pass, Khoksar, Sissu, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Deepak Tal, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu, Pang, Rumste, Upshi
Diesel / Petrol Pumps	Tandi (107 KMs from Manali), Upshi (60 KMs from Leh), Karu (30 KMs from Leh)
Mobile Connectivity	In our case, mobile signal of Airtel worked till Keylong only and then faded rapidly. The signals were restored after crossing Upshi for Airtel. Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within this range than any other operator. Airtelworks in Ladakh but with poor connectivity. SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel. Vodafone did not work for us at all after crossing Marhi and not even in Leh -Ladakh. Packet data also works upt Keylong and in Leh packet data is available only with BSNL edge. Prepaid connections do not work in Leh – Ladakh.
Fixed Phones	Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Electricity	Sissu, Gondla, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Medical Facilities	Sissu, Keylong
ATMs	Keylong
Police Checkpoints	Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi, Khoksar (For foreigners only)
Mechanic / Puncture Shops	Marhi, Khoksar, Tandi (not sure), Keylong, Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi
Liquor Shops	Marhi, Keylong, Darcha, Upshi
Natural Highlights	Rohtang Pass, Tandi Confluence, Sissu Waterfall, Deepak Tal, Suraj Tal, Baralacha La, Strange Soil formations, Moore Plains (Wildlife too), Taglang La or Tanglang La, Gata Loops

Conclusion

The above information is known to my knowledge only and may not be in its entirety. Hence, I request you to share your valuable inputs or information which I may have missed out. Looking forward for your responses as comments and develop it as an comprehensive information pack on Manali – Leh Highway.

Season to travel on Manali – Leh Highway

Usually, the opening of Rohtang Pass and Baralacha La majorly governs the travel time on Manali – Leh Highway. The average time for opening of Rohtang Pass every year is around May and Baralacha La usually opens up close to May end. Hence, June to September is the time window when the Manali – Leh Highway is open and is considered as the only time for travelling on Manali – Leh Highway. In the early stages i.e. June, one can find huge stocks of snow en-route but the road conditions may be a challenge to drive. While in the later stages i.e. August to September, the conditions of the roads are almost perfect in shape with all the slush dried out, maintenance work almost completed on these roads by BRO but your eyes will be devoid from the snow mostly.

The weather in June is always unpredictable and chances of rain are also bright. This leads to the closure of certain sections on Manali – Leh Highway due to landslides triggered by rains. However, you may be lucky in June as well to cruise this Highway in bright sunshine. June is not exactly the ideal time when one wants to be in Manali due to mad tourist influx. As the July – August comes, the Monsoon comes as well in the Northern parts of India. However, the regions on the Northern side of Rohtang Pass that is Keylong and beyond mostly remains untouched by these monsoon rains (except year 2010 which was an exception). So in July-August, though you may need to cross the Southern side of Rohtang Pass in Monsoon rains that is Manali and lower hills but after that, especially Keylong, you are almost good to go without much trouble with these rains.

June – July is also the time window when the snow melts on high passes creating almost tiny rivers or water crossings (nallas) on roads in the early stages. This is quite a challenge to dodge, especially with the vehicles having low ground clearance. Post afternoon, when the sun is burning at its best, some of these water crossings or nallas becomes so violent that they are almost impossible to cross. This may force you to halt the journey of the day in the middle of nowhere or return back to some civilized place for a night halt. The best way to overcome these water crossings or nallas, is to know the specific nallas on Manali – Leh Highway and plan to cross them as early in the morning as possible. In year 2010, one of the major hurdle was water crossing or nalla just after Zingzing Bar and before Baralacha La. Another major one was between Rohtang Pass and Sissu. In early stages (June), even crossing Baralacha La is a big challenge due to melting snow which creates some deep water streams on the road itself. Slush is also bound to be present on Baralcha La in the early stages of the season and is also quite a challenge to negotiate without proper skills even on SUV/MUV. This slush is generally created by the constant moving traffic which beats the snow present on the road or aside. Hence, try to cover these sections of Manali – Leh Highway in the early part of the day, when snow melts very slowly and traffic is less.

Are you planning your trip on Manali – Leh Highway in late September and October? If yes, then you must read the link: 5 Reasons to Avoid Manali – Leh Highway in Late September or October

Modes of travel on Manali – Leh Highway

Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh

Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is to live the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India. You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding through slushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks of your vehicle prior to the start of this arduous journey in which you will be desolated majority of the time.

For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seen hatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Manali – Leh Highway. However, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution. Also, be ready for few scratches or sacrifice some parts on your sedans / hatchbacks under-belly due to the lack of enough ground clearance which may be required in some water crossings or landslides on Manali – Leh Highway. If you are trying to attempt in a hatchback or sedan, I will suggest to plan the journey late in the season (August – September) when the roads are in good shape than early season.

Whenever in doubt, always step out of your car, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the path of exit before crossing a dangerous landslide or water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside and see how others are crossing the risky section to plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try to maintain the momentum without any half clutch measures and complete the entire stretch in one go only. Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issue rather keep the smooth momentum with required speed to pass you through, without half clutch measures. Do keep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you get stuck in slush then try to back and forth your vehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to ask your fellow co-travelers to get out of the car and push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling to pass through the slush or water crossing stretch.

Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three "2 ltr" empty bottles of pepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak), funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, M-seal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, do not forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. This will ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches that may have been introduced in that service.

Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are only allowed for a drop in Leh – Ladakh. They are not allowed to be driven in Leh – Ladakh and as per the taxi union rules only taxis with Ladakh number are allowed to roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing. If you want to travel within Leh – Ladakh in your private taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that case you need to hire a taxi with private number plate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queries by the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or police constables on your route. You need to ensure everyone interrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.

Whenever, you need to hire a taxi always try to hire it from Manali, as the drivers of Manali will always be more skilled and more accustomed to the route or current conditions of Manali – Leh Highway. Secondly, the locals always have a majority with an advantage of local support in any hurdle you might face on the way towards Leh.

To hire a taxi, go directly to Manali taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh. Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 1000 extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 12000 to Rs 17000 for a drop to Leh from Manali, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and time when you are visiting the place. June being the highest paid and September – August being the least paid.

On Manali bus stand, the taxis that drop people coming from Ladakh are also available sometimes. Since, the same local sightseeing rules are applied to Ladakh taxis as well in Manali, they are bound to return without any tourists from Manali side, officially. If you can catch any of those Ladakhi drivers, you might save yourself Rs 3000 to Rs 4000 for a drop to Leh from Manali. Same rule is applicable from Leh to Manali side as well and hence, if you can get hold of some Himachali driver at Leh taxi stand, you will again save about Rs 3000 to Rs 4000 on your return drop to Manali. However, you need to be a bit careful from local drivers while fixing a deal with non-local drivers. So, it is always nice if you have some references on either place upfront and call them directly to fix the deal. Secondly, it might be hard that these taxis will agree for any night halt on the way but it depends on how you gel up in the negotiations and bargaining.

Manali – Leh Bus Service, HPTDC | Good for a solo traveler or a couple

Perhaps if you are traveling alone or with one or two friends, you can buy or book tickets of Manali – Leh bus service of HPTDC. This semi-deluxe bus covers the 474 Km long Manali – Leh stretch with a night halt at HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Keylong on coming from either side. The ticket costs Rs 2000 per person (as per year 2010 price) which includes a stay at HPTDC Hotel Chandrabhaga, Keylong and two meals i.e. dinner and breakfast at the same hotel. There was also an option to buy the ticket only without hotel stay and meals for Rs 1500 (not sure if it is still there). The prices mentioned here may change anytime though. The overall comfort level of the bus is much better than other buses that ply on Manali – Leh Highway.

The bus starts every odd day of the month i.e. 1,3,5 etc from Manali side and every even day of the month i.e. 2,4,6 etc from Leh side. (Schedule: At the time of writing this article) Hence, you need to plan your travel dates accordingly, if you go by this option. The tickets can be bought or booked at HPTDC office on mall road, Manali or you may like to contact at HPTDC Office in your local town (HPTDC Contact Details). Do not book the seats at the back and confirm before booking regarding the location of the seats. At the back seats, you may have trouble when the road gets bad especially on the second day i.e. Keylong to Leh. The bus departs at 11 AM from Manali on the first day and 5 AM from Keylong on the second day to reach Leh about 7 PM.

You can also book the tickets for HPTDC Bus Service Online using the following link and get the schedule of the bus services from the following link: HPTDC Online Bus Booking and Check HPTDC Bus Availability and Schedule Online

Keylong – Leh Bus Service, HRTC | Cheapest mode of travel

HRTC also run a regular bus service to Leh although not from Manali but from Keylong. However, you can book tickets for connecting buses (Manali – Keylong and Keylong – Leh) from Manali bus depot itself or even ISBT, Delhi. You can also reach Keylong by getting a seat in numerous shared taxis that ply between Manali – Keylong every day. The HRTC buses may not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price.

The ticket between Manali – Keylong costs about Rs 100 – 125 and then Keylong – Leh it costs about Rs 450 – 550, in HRTC buses. I do not know the exact price though. The bus departs at 5 AM from Keylong and reaches Leh about 7 PM.

Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Manali and reaches Leh on next evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Manali as well.

You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1800 per person for a drop to Leh from Manali or a drop to Manali from Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 9-10 other people plus the driver and completes the back braking cannon ball run of Manali – Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one is the second cheapest mode of travel on Manali – Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on the body too

Other travel modes

You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Manali who also runs their private buses or Tempo Travelers on Manali – Leh Highway. They are also run according to dates and hence you may not find the immediate bookings for them.

Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Manali – Leh Highway

Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Manali – Leh Highway in one of the following ways –

Two Day Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali – Leh Highway due to the limited civilization. Hence, a two day journey on Manali – Leh Highway is the most common among all travelers. Private Taxis and buses run by HPTDC or HRTC also cover the Manali – Leh Highway in two days. Mostly, people break up the journey on Manali – Leh Highway in the following two ways over a span of two days -

Manali – Keylong / Jispa (Day 1) and Keylong / Jispa – Leh (Day 2)

This option is mostly preferred by people who do not want to run the risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) by staying at higher altitudes than Keylong or Jispa. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in the morning like by 5 AM from Keylong or Jispa to reach Leh in time. Public buses including HPTDC / HRTC halts for night at Keylong and leave at 5 AM in the next morning, too.

Personally, out of Keylong or Jispa I will always prefer to stay at Jispa, if traveling by your own or privately hired vehicle. Jispa is situated right on the banks of river Bhaga and is further 20 KMs away from Keylong town. Spending the evening at this place is extremely refreshing and is far better experience than the boring Keylong town. While Keylong town offers varied accommodation options, Jispa has only few options available for a stay and hence, it is important that you pre-book them. Secondly, if you are traveling by public transport i.e. HRTC or HPTDC buses then you need to stay at Keylong only else you need to manage the travel to Jispa yourself and then fix the pickup too with the driver or conductor. Mobile phones may or may not work in Jispa.

Manali – Sarchu / Pang (Day 1) and Sarchu / Pang – Leh (Day 2)

After Keylong and Jispa, you will find accommodation majorly at Sarchu and Pang only. This option is also taken by many travelers. However, Sarchu and Pang being at much higher altitudes, many people suffer with headaches, vomiting or sleepless nights. Hence, if you have plans to stay either at Sarchu or Pang then it is extremely important that you stay at Solang Valley not in Manali to acclimatize your body a little bit. Solang Valley also may not help altogether though but Manali will certainly not help the cause.

Both Pang and Sarchu are close to mid way between Manali and Leh. So, a stay at any of these places evenly distributes the time and fatigue over a span of two days. This way it helps you better enjoy the journey on each of the two days. Again in between Sarchu and Pang, I will suggest a stay at Sarchu due to its lower altitude than Pang. Pang has lesser and cheaper options available but Sarchu has varied options including the Swiss tents with attached toilets. In the end, if you are coming from Leh, then you can stay at either Pang or Sarchu without any trouble because by then your body will be acclimatized to handle such altitudes.

One Day Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

Manali – Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Manali – Leh in single day is mostly common among local people or people who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are the preferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this back braking, cannon ball run of 16-18 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as the mind of an average traveler. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amount of altitudes ranging from 1900 Mtrs to over 5000 Mtrs in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or some severe headaches or disorientation en-route. This will certainly kill the joy of the journey.

Keep in mind that you are most likely to hit with mountain sickness in this option. If you get away with it consider yourself extremely lucky otherwise keep in mind that any breakdown of the vehicle like puncture, engine heat down etc at some high altitude (Tanglang La, Nakee La, Lachulung La etc) with you suffering from mountain sickness may lead to very very ugly outcomes. Hence, DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT take the acclimatization factor lightly.

Three Day Journey on Manali – Leh Highway

Manali – Keylong / Jispa (Day 1) and Keylong / Jispa – Sarchu / Pang (Day 2) and Sarchu / Pang – Leh (Day 3)

Well, this option is nothing but the combination of other two to cover Manali – Leh Highway in three days. Definitely, this option will require more time as well as more money but the results will be worth every penny. This options is the best way to thoroughly enjoy the beauty of nature that is offered by Manali – Leh Highway with worries of mountain sickness but minimum and in relaxed manner. There are plenty of places / vistas and picture taking points on Manali – Leh Highway that are worth spending this extra time and money.

Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money for the ultimate heaven. If these two things have no place for consideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your journey on Manali – Leh Highway much more than a memorable experience . I guess the comparison of night halts are already done in first option, so opt as per your taste. Again if possible, do stay at Solang Valley not in Manali to minimize the chances or effects of mountain sickness.

This option will mostly be available, if you are traveling by your own vehicle. You will even have tough time bargaining with drivers at Manali taxi stand for 2 night halts unless you are ready to pay them handsomely.

List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Manali – Leh Highway

Its always better to know or have the list of all accommodation places on Manali – Leh Highway before you travel on it because in such unpredictable terrain you can never predict what can come to your rescue. So, having as much details as possible about the place is always favorable. I have complied the list of accommodation or stay options on Manali – Leh Highway at the below link which includes the information about their contacts, location, price range, experiences etc. Refer the link below for details – List of Accommodation Options on Manali – Leh Highway

Acclimatization and its importance on Manali – Leh Highway

The journey on Manali – Leh Highway goes through series of high altitudes passes which are good enough to cause headaches, vomiting, disorientation and mountain sickness to the best in the business. After crossing Patseo or Deepak Tal you are bound to run this high road to Ladakh above 4000 Mtrs until you descend from Taglang La towards Rumste / Upshi. However, with little prevention and care you can combat or minimize the effects of altitude sickness. Here are some tips which will help fighting the AMS on Manali – Leh Highway -

For more information on Acute Mountain Sickness and all above acclimatization tips, please refer the following link at least once: Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization

Fuel or Petrol Pump on Manali – Leh Highway

After Manali town, there is only one Petrol Pump at Tandi on entire Manali – Leh Highway before Upshi / Karu. DO NOT forget to get the tank full fuel at this petrol pump, even if you had it completely filled at Manali. The more you have, the better it will be for you.

ATM on Manali – Leh Highway

Do carry enough cash money with you as the ATM is available only in Keylong and Manali town. If you have no plans to stay at Keylong then do not forget to withdraw cash from Manali town. After Keylong, you will get hold of an ATM only at Leh town.

Places on Manali – Leh Highway with their Distances and Altitudes

For a detailed description on the major places on Manali – Leh Highway including the distance between them and their respective altitudes, please refer the article on following link: Places on Manali – Leh Highway | A Detailed Description

Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Manali – Leh Highway

Facility	Places
Hotel / Guest Houses	Khoksar, Sissu, Gondla, Patseo, Tandi, Keylong (Many options), Jispa, Upshi
Tents / Camps (Dhaba / Swiss / Normal)	Marhi, Jispa, Darcha, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu (Many options), Pang
Food / Beverages	Marhi, Rohtang Pass, Khoksar, Sissu, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Deepak Tal, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Sarchu, Pang, Rumste, Upshi
Diesel / Petrol Pumps	Tandi (107 KMs from Manali), Upshi (60 KMs from Leh), Karu (30 KMs from Leh)
Mobile Connectivity	In our case, mobile signal of Airtel worked till Keylong only and then faded rapidly. The signals were restored after crossing Upshi for Airtel. Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within this range than any other operator. Airtelworks in Ladakh but with poor connectivity. SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel. Vodafone did not work for us at all after crossing Marhi and not even in Leh -Ladakh. Packet data also works upt Keylong and in Leh packet data is available only with BSNL edge. Prepaid connections do not work in Leh – Ladakh.
Fixed Phones	Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Electricity	Sissu, Gondla, Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Upshi
Medical Facilities	Sissu, Keylong
ATMs	Keylong
Police Checkpoints	Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi, Khoksar (For foreigners only)
Mechanic / Puncture Shops	Marhi, Khoksar, Tandi (not sure), Keylong, Darcha, Sarchu, Upshi
Liquor Shops	Marhi, Keylong, Darcha, Upshi
Natural Highlights	Rohtang Pass, Tandi Confluence, Sissu Waterfall, Deepak Tal, Suraj Tal, Baralacha La, Strange Soil formations, Moore Plains (Wildlife too), Taglang La or Tanglang La, Gata Loops

Conclusion

In the end, if you have been to Manali – Leh Highway then please share your valuable thoughts or suggestions which can make the above information more concrete and useful for someone planning to cover Manali – Leh Highway. Your comments and inputs are most welcome.

One of the most popular tourist places in Northern India situated along side Beas River is called Manali, Valley of Gods. The term stands for Manu (Manu Rishi) + Aali (Home) and I bet you his home (Manali ) is just MAGICAL in nature. Manali is one of the oldest towns of Kullu Valley. The place surrounds with the the aura of ROMANCE everywhere, right from the hustle-bustle of mall road to the very calm, traditional, firang (foreigners) dominated old Manali to the woods/villages around/beyond Manu temple to the walk path around Hadimba temple. It can easily be called one of the ROMANTIC destinations of India. The place is ideal for families as well as young couple looking for some hide and seek with the flavor of romance on top of it. Manali is largely visited by the honeymoon couples (me did so Read story Snow at Manali and Naggar | Honeymoon Trip ) and in summers people from all walks of life (children to old) run to seek pleasant weather from low hot burning lands of Northern India. The Hadimba goddess runs the Manali town and is the center of worship of the people living at Manali. The almighty goddess also governs the tall mountains along with raw nature and it’s only after her permission that one gets to enjoy this beautiful place to the core. When people think of Manali the second keyword that comes is of course Rohtang Pass which no doubt is a must visit place if you go to Manali.

Some views of Manali…

Location

Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh on the banks of Beas River.

Altitude

1950 Meters or 6500 Feet (approximately)

Climate

Climate in Manali is almost nice throughout the year (if you like chill ) where you can enjoy chilling cold in winters (December-February) and nice pleasant cool weather in summers. The best time although to visit Manali is April to June when heat is burning the low lands of Northern India. July-August may experience rainfall but this place has again it’s unique beauty when it rains .

Snowfall may also occur in the months of January and February.

Best Time to Visit

April to June is the best time to visit Manali but do keep in mind that in summers (April-June) people from most Northern parts of India invade this place like anything and seeing the Mall road in the evening can cause serious shiver in your Head . It’s almost you are in Trade Fair of Pragati Maidan, Delhi But if you enjoy it, then it’s really awesome time to visit Manali. Also, you can take the shelter in Old Manali in such extreme cases which is far off from the hustle bustle of the (over) crowd. Right from accommodation to food to shopping to taxi / auto fares, everything is costly in this peak season summer holidays.

For honeymoon, of course if you get married in winters then Mid-November to February end is the best time as you get an additional benefit of heavy discount, being off-season topped with less number of tourists or at least you see similar love birds.

If you are looking for adventure sports then, hit for skiing December to February season is the best time and for rafting May to September would do good. All of you who seeks Paragliding in Manali, it’s always dependent on weather on the current day of the year

Do avoid Durga Puja holidays mainly in October when the rush is at peak again and people flood the Kullu Manali towns like anything … It is also the Dusherra Festival time in Kullu Valley with which also valley is under heavy tourist rush.

Also, there is official HPTDC off-season at the time of monsoon and winters (usually mid November-February) when they provide 30% discount on their services

Some More Views Manali…

How to reach Manali

By Air

Nearest Airport is Bhunter near Kullu about 50 KM away. From Kullu, you can hire a taxi to reach Manali in 90 minutes approximately. The fare of taxi could be Rs 600- Rs 800, depending upon the bargaining skills as well as season time.

By Train

Chandigarh is the closest major Railway Station from where it would take anywhere around 9-10 Hours to reach Manali by bus/car.

By Road

Manali is about 570 KM from Delhi (approximately) and takes around 12-14 Hours to reach.

Generaly the route followed for Manali from Delhi by road is –

Delhi – Ambala (188 KM) – Chandigarh – Roopnagar (282 KM) – Kiratpur – Bilaspur (371 KM) – Sunder Nagar – Mandi (440 KM) – Pandoh – Aut (481 KM) – Kullu – Manali (570 KM)

HPTDC Volvo Buses also run from Delhi at 6 P.M. everyday from HPTDC Office, Janpath and reaches Manali next morning around 8 AM. The fare is around Rs 990 on side. The similar buses leaves from Manali every evening 5.30 PM and reaching Delhi by 7.00 AM next morning.

Road Conditions

Delhi to Manali roads run on NH-21 and NH-1 highways and are pretty much in great shape being a highway. In the entire route there are one or two rough patches so that you never loose your concentration, specially the drive from Kiratpur to Sunder Nagar is horrible with with trucks running madly all over the road on both sides, slowing you down terribly. A slight Chandigarh to Roopnagar stretch is also in bad shape but rest of the road conditions are pure bliss to drive.

Preferred Vehicles

Best way is to take your car/bike and hit the road as there is no such specialty required in the vehicle be it 2X2 or 4X4. You can take it as long as its engine runs and fuel exists

Itinerary

From Delhi to visit Manali you require at least 3 Nights, 4 Days and it would be great if you have more But ideally in 3 Nights / 4 Days you can cover majority of this place. I would also provide some add-on or pop-up day tours which you can include exclude as you like.

Night – 1: Leave Delhi in the evening to reach Manali next morning either by car/or Volvo bus. You can take a morning flight to Kullu as well which takes you to first day.

Day – 1: Check-in at the hotel, rest for few hours and go on for Local Sightseeing. This may include Mall road (which of course you can’t avoid any day), Local Monastery, Hadimba Devi Temple, Manu Rishi Temple in the evening through the streets of old Manali. Have Dinner at one of the traditional / western cuisine restaurant at Old Manali. Come back to hotel for the rest.

Day – 2: Leave for Rohtang Pass early in the morning to avoid traffic JAM. Mind it, it’s worse JAM of the trip so be prepared and it’s always better to avoid by shooting for Rohtang early morning may be 7 A.M. Come back to hotel by evening or around 4 PM to rest at the hotel and enjoy the Mall road in the evening / night.

Day – 3: Leave for Solang Valley if you want to do some adventure sports and enjoy the day there. Come back in the evening. Leave for home in the night, either by taking the evening Volvo or by you own car.

Add-on or Top-up Days

Day – 4: If you are not interested in visiting a unique place then include Naggar Castle in your trip with a night stay at Naggar Castle. Well the views it offers is just breathtaking. So you can also opt for Naggar in place of Solang if you don’t like adventure sports then replace this day with the trip to Naggar Castle, just 30 odd KM from Manali. For honeymoon it’s one of the best place to stay and must visit for couples looking for ideal romantic point.

To get the glimpses of the views from Naggar Castle, check these links of my visit to this beautiful place.

You may take a day trip to Naggar and leave for Manali same day if you don’t like much but better include a night stay at this lovely Hotel. Next morning you can leave to Delhi from Naggar itself.

Day – 5/6: Another set of location you may include is that you leave for Kullu or Kasol in the evening if it’s the penultimate day of the trip or early morning on any day if you have ample amount of time. Just it would be great if you can do it on the way back to home towards Delhi or similar route.

Reach Kullu, shop in the market and head towards Manikaran. Visit this holy place and leave for Kasol where you can enjoy the evening in nice Israeli flavor. If you have time then dedicate a day for Kasol and try to enjoy the environment to the core besides the Parvati River. If you have ever been to Goa (Check My Goa Valentines Trip), you would say it’s almost a mini form of it without bikinis …

Leave for Delhi in the evening and reach by morning.

Accommodations

There are a lot of Hotel options available in Manali for accommodation ranging from luxury Hotels to budget range Hotels. Well I have been to all three kinds on my previous trips to Manali and this is what I felt a nice list to narrow down the choices. Of course I would say these are just Hotels either known to me or I have taken feedback from my family members who have stayed there

So, if you are no short of budget go for Johnson’s or Picaddily Resorts, although there are more luxury Hotel also available which you may check for sure.

If you are short on budget either choose HPTDC, Rohtang Manalsu or HPTDC, The Beas or else you can very well walk to the streets of Old Manali where you will get very good deals for some cheap hotels in Manali.

HPTDC is always a safe bet if you are in dilemma for cheap hotel, I believe.

Budgest Hotels in Manali

You can find lots of budget hotels around Manali in Vashishth, Old Manali and hotels on the Manali – Naggar road near Beas Bridge. The one at Manali – Naggar road named The River View and one just before that hotel are real good and economic options of stay in Manali. Read the complete review of The River View hotel at the below link: The River View, Manali | Hotel Review

Food Joints

Tips to travel in winters

Around Manali:

There are ample of places around Manali and inside Manali town which as a tourist can be visited and clicked for some great memories in life. I will try to enlist some of them below -

Local Sightseeing

You can check below destinations within Manali town -

Manali Mall Road

You can enjoy food and shopping at this very road. There are few Hotels as well on the road including Hotel Kunzum, HPTDC. There is one Temple as well at the Mall road just aside Bus and Taxi Stand

Hadimba Temple

It’s near Circuit House approximately 15-20 minutes walk. Autos run all time in Manali to take you to the local tourist joints but charge a bit high. I feel walking down to these places has fun of it’s own kind.

Manu Temple

As you cross through the streets of lovely Old Manali you will reach this temple. Chingu Chingu is what you will hear all over as you start entering the road. Don’t fall into the trap of sales man of buying it, most of them are duplicate makes.

Local Monastery

Local monastery is situated just few 200 odd Meters from the bus stand at Mall road. You can surely buy some souvenir from the shops in front of the local Manali monastery.

Vashishth Hot Water Springs

Personally I didn’t like this place at all and considered it as total waste of time.

Other trails

Other trails in the woods through local villages and old Manali which can be enjoyed as well.

Rohtang Pass

At an height of 13,051 feet or 3978 Meters, this Pir Panjal Range pass is a must visit for every tourist who goes to Manali. You can find snow throughout the year at this place and is reachable from May End – October. It connects the Kullu Valley to Lahaul-Spiti Valley and is one of the main blockage point of Delhi-Manali-Leh Ladakh connectivity.

Solang Valley

Mountaineering and Allied sports Institute, Manali conducts various courses on Skiing at this place and if you love adventure sports you may find this place very exciting. Along with this, it also offers snow capped views of glaciers and even snow in winters. The place also helps in proper acclimatization if you are wishing to head Leh Ladakh.

Naggar

This is just amazing place which I have already explained in the Itinerary section and if you are really looking for some romantic joint, Naggar Castle is surely the place to be. Do read more at Naggar Castle, Naggar

Kullu

It’s a major district of Himachal Pradesh and is located at the banks of Beas River. The Airport Bhunter is just 10 KMs from this place and you will find ample of place to shop.

Kasol

42 KM from Kullu, Kasol situated at the banks of Parvati River is yet another place which is a must visit and provides a completely unique experience with Israeli atmosphere dominating the air.It’s an hub of backpackers and what they are after, you very well know.

Manikaran

It’s a Hindu and Sikh pilgrimage center located between the Beas and Parvati Rivers. Well you may like it or you may not like it. It’s a matter of taste but couple of hours giving to this place is worth enough.

Conclusion

If you ever have been to Manali then please share you valuable thoughts and suggestion as well so that it can help other fellow travelers to plan their journey to Manali accordingly. I will be looking forward to your comments and suggestions.

Tirthan Valley

Situated besides the Tirthan River in Himachal Pradesh at an altitude of 1600 meters, Tirthan Valley is a gateway to the Great Himalayan National Park. A place where you can easily forget the world to relax and have loads of nature walks following one trail or the other, into the woods or  besides the river. You can amazingly feel the nature in pure bliss here. If nature walks are the thing you like or even Trout Fishing then just head Tirthan. There are a lot of treks ranging from 4-15 days even which an avid trekker can explore and reach as high as 4000 meters approximately. In all it’s an ideal place for camping, bonfires, playing music, getting together to know each other (helpful in team or relation building ), eating out, lazing etc. etc. and the list goes on to make it complete holiday destination.

Location:

Kullu District, Himachal Pradesh besides Tirthan River.

Altitude:

1600 Meters or 5300 Feet (approximately)

Climate:

Climate is nice and pleasant with temperature in summers being less than 24 degree Celsius and in winters the minimum temperature may fall below freezing point. Due to the flowing river adjacent to valley you will always feel the moist of it and lots of greenery add to that nice feeling.

Season to visit:

Although it’s a very nice, quite, relaxed and pleasant place through out the year but of course during "Spring Season" it’s just amazingly beautiful. Fully loaded with apple orchards the beauty of Tirthan Valley gets ready to mesmerize any soul on earth. Do note that in winters the place gets very cold and vulnerable towards wildlife interference especially by the presence of Leopards and Bears in this area because snow at heights forces them to descend towards valley.

In snow due to less amount of food on the mountains these leopards and bears are bound to attack, so be careful while having a walk in the woods.

As per the past experiences of many people this valley will not disappoint you a bit from March to November and is considered the best time to visit if somehow you don’t get a chance in Spring season

Trout fishing season is from March to October and for that you need to take a daily license at Rs. 100 per person per fishing rod which is non-transferable.

Itinerary:

Tirthan Valley is very much possible as a 3 day long weekend trip. To get the feel of it in entirety you can always add one more day to make it 4 and relax in the lap of nature to refresh yourself inside out or add a drive to Kasol – Manikaran as well.

Night – 1: Leave from Delhi in the evening and reach Tirthan early morning

Day – 1: Early morning arrival means sound sleep and rest for 5-6 Hours. Rest around the serene and calm Tirthan River and relax for the whole day. In the evening, may be enjoy a bonfire.

Day – 2: Walk in to the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) to see nearby waterfalls. I think there are two of them at little distance to each other and enjoy the dinner alongside river before having a sound sleep.

Day – 3: Relax till noon and leave for Delhi around 12 PM to reach around 11 PM. This will give you a sound sleep and you can join the office easily next day.

Optional Day 1: Drive to Jalori Pass from where you can trek to Serloskar Lake. On the way back have a meal at Sringi Vatika and as the food preparations takes time you can always walk down the river side to have some fun. You can add this day to make it 4 day trip.

Optional Day 2: Drive to Kasol and Manikaran and either come back to Tirthan same day for night stay or stay at Kasol only if going on the penultimate day of the trip so that you can leave towards home from Kasol only. You can add this day to make it 4 day trip.

Well to be on adventurous side on Day 3 you can leave early morning to follow this route and can cover the Option Day 1 with Jalori Pass. However, Serloskar Lake will not be possible. I will always prefer this route either while coming or while leaving.

Tirthan – Banjar (6 KM) – Shoja (20 KM) – Jalori Pass (24 KM) – Khanag – Ani -  Narkanda (114 KM) – Shimla (174 KM) – Kalka – Ambala (356 KM) – Delhi (544 KM)

Route to Jalori Pass is quite steep from Shoja side as compared to the other side i.e. Ani and Khanag which adds more pleasure to this adventure drive

How to reach:

By Air: Nearest Airport is Bhunter near Kullu from Manali side.

By Train: Chandigarh is the closest major Railway Station.

By Road: Possible route(s) to Tirthan Valley from Delhi by road are

Delhi – Ambala (188 KM) – Chandigarh – Roopnagar (282 KM) – Kiratpur – Bilaspur (371 KM) – Mandi (440 KM) – Pandoh – Aut (481 KM) – Larji – Gushaini – Tirthan (511 KM)

After reaching Aut just before the Jawahar Tunnel, take the right exit. (Caution::- Route is extremely scenic from here on ) You will reach Larji T-Point from where you need to take a right to reach Sai Ropa. At Sai-Ropa, if you head straight you will reach Banjar – Shoja but for Tirthan just follow the U-Turn from there towards Gushaini-Nagni (Tirthan). It takes about 1.25 Hr to reach Tirthan from Aut.

Buses (Volvo) also run from Delhi at 6 P.M. everyday from HPTDC Office, Janapath and reaches Aut next morning around 6 AM. From Aut you can get a taxi for around Rs. 400-600 with seating capacity of 5. Aut to Tirthan is about 30 KMs. While going back you can catch the bus around 7 PM at Aut and reach Delhi next morning by 7 A.M.

An alternate but long route is,

Delhi – Ambala (188 KM) – Kalka – Shimla (370 KM) – Narkanda (430 KM) – Ani – Khanag – Jalori Pass (520 KM) – Shoja (524 KM) – Banjar (538 KM) – Tirthan (544 KM)

Road Conditions:

On the way from Delhi till Aut roads are pretty much in great shape being a highway and from Aut roads are narrow in but in good conditions. In the entire route there are one or two rough patches so that you never loose your concentration

Preferred Vehicles:

Best way is to take your car bike and hit the road as there is no such speciality required in the vehicle be it 2X2 or 4X4. You can take it as long as its engine runs .

Accommodations:

1. Sai Ropa FRH could be the good option to stay, if possible.

2. Raju Bharti’s Guest House (Phone Number: 09418149808 (01903-225008 not sure of this one if it is working or not)) which is extremely famous with tempting food as per majority of people who stay there. It is surely the best place of stay in Tirthan Valley

3. Himalayan Trout House which is expensive but a nice place to stay.

4. Riverside Resort right at the banks of the river is getting some attention now a days. Check my review at River Side Resort, Tirthan Valley | Hotel Review

5. Shringi Vatika at Ghiyagi a little away from Tirthan: It is a homestay kind budget accommodation but with great service and reputation. River is a little hike down and it is a bit away from Tirthan (about 10 odd KMs, if I am not wrong). Contact Person: Pammi +919218201598

Things to Carry:

The place is all famous for Trout Fishing. If you are a read freak you can carry books, if you like to play take a volleyball, if you play music take the instruments with you, if you like to chat just go there and open your chatterbox around a bonfire with your mates, if you like to fish take your fishing kit with you or you can get there as well etc etc… The destination is ideal for anything that makes you feel relax from the day to day life, so go and enjoy to the fullest.

Around Tirthan Valley

Great Himalayan National Park: Get the feel of a nature park by walking till the inner entrance and I feel permissions are required for the entrance on daily basis.

Waterfalls: There are two lonely waterfalls around an hour walking distance with higher one being more than 50 feet high. Both of them are very shortly separated from each other and are on the same walking trail.

Jalori Pass : Jalori Pass, at an altitude of 3120 meters, is one of the steepest passes to drive in Himachal separating Kullu valley and Shimla Valley. You need to cover almost 2500 meters in less than 25 KMs to reach the top . You can have a meal at Shringi Vatika on the way back. Well this place is covered with snow from December end till March end.

Serloskar Lake: 5 KM from Jalori pass there is one lake which you can easily prefer to visit for a small trek.

Bachelo Pass: 15 KM en-rotue Bathaad, you can also visit this lonely pass that remains well covered with snow from December to February.

Map:

Map, courtesy – http://tirthan.blogspot.com/

At an altitude of 4300 Meters approx. Chandratal lake in Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh lies between a low ridge and the main Kunzum range. Mostly surrounded with snow, this deep blue-water lake has a circumference of 2.5 Kilometers. Some people also call it Moon Lake and is the source of the violent Chandra River. Moulkila and Chandrabhaga mountain ranges having peaks snow caps and snow slopes around the valley measures from 3000 Meters to 6500 Meters approximately. Locales there believe that it is this point from where Yudhishtra (Eldest among Pandava of Mahabharata epic) was taken to heaven in his mortal form. It’s a very luring place.

Enroute Chandratal… It’s not Chandratal …

Location of Chandratal

Himalayas — Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh

Altitude of Chandratal

4270 Meters or 14220 Feet (approximately)

Climate at Chandratal

Very cold during winter and temperature may drop well below even – 20 degrees. Although cold during summer, snowfall can happen anytime of the year here. Do not forget to take heavy woolens any time of the year you are going.

How to reach Chandratal

Possible road route(s) from Delhi to Chandratal by road are:

Nearest Airport is Bhunter near Kullu and Jabbar Airport near Shimla and Nearest Railway station is at Shimla connected with Kalka through toy train.

Preferred Vehicles

If you are driving choice shall be SUVs style for sure (Safari/Sumo/Xylo/Scorpio/Jeep etc). 4X4 is not really required but it’s an added advantage anyway for such terrains. If you are riding Motorcycles, Mountain Bicycles just be sure to be careful at some of the stretches as bike may skid due to heavy filthy roads and water crossings.Apart from those Heavy-duty trucks, ATVs (All Terrain Vehicles) may do the job anyhow for you . Well human feet are almost always required to trek some part in this journey so be ready to use them anyway

Road Conditions

Road conditions are not so good once you are off the Manali – Leh highway i.e. when you take a right turn from Gramphoo towards Battal. It is basically a Dirt track all the way till Chandratal . Same applies when you cross the Kunzum La and move towards Chandratal till Kunuzm La crossing board. At this crossing taking a right will take you to Chandratal and left will lead you to Battal – Gamphoo – Manali (Left) / Leh (Right)

From Battal to Chandratal from Manali side or Kunzum La crossing board to Chandratal from Kunzum side it gets even worse due to the presence of boulders  / rocks throughout the stretch and you need higher ground clearance vehicles at many places most of the time of the year. You shall have to be extremely lucky negotiating with this stretch with lower ground clearance vehicles. It’s almost a kind of off-road driving experience Presence of snow may make it more difficult.

You will also have to clear two water crossings during this stretch of Battal / Kunzum La Crossing to Chandratal and the current depends upon the time of the year. When I was there the latter one (near the lake) was very violent.

Season to visit

Pre-requisite: Any one of the passes viz. Rohtang La (Rohtang Pass) or Kunzum La (Kunzum Pass) are open for traffic.

June Last Week to September Second Week

It will be the best option to visit Chandratal in July-August month window when the roads are cleaned up by PWD till very end and Chandratal becomes accessible by road. So you can take your vehicle at the parking point of Chandratal from where you need to walk about 2 KMs for the rest of the journey.

June first three weeks / September last week

Well you may try your luck first week June onwards but it’s highly likely that trek from Battal onwards will be tough due to the presence of snow and for sure not motor able till the very end. You may just reach Battal and then need to trek in the presence of snow which makes it all very tough. We went Delhi to Chandratal via Manali in June first week 2009. Here is my experience for the same: Visit to Chandertal

Rest of the year

As soon as the passes (Rohtang La and Kunzum La) close, Chandratal gets disconnected via road from Delhi-Manali or Delhi-Tabo/Kaza route. Now if the passes are closed then being at much greater height than passes it would be inaccessible via road by any route. The whole valley from Chattru onwards get’s loads of snow. So only means left is TREK in too much snow

Things to Carry

If you are traveling in a pleasant time window i.e. July-August you don’t really need any special thing apart from you basic travel kit and few medicines of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness). It’s a must if you are a first timer to such an altitude just to mitigate the risk of getting hit.

But yes if you are traveling in a dicey time window to a terrain like Chandratal Lake in snow times better prepared with the following must haves –

Apart from the above list you can check my list of things to carry on a trip at the link : List of things to carry when you go on a trip

Accommodation Options at Chandratal

Well there is all famous Battal Dhaba which has room for 7-8 people on one side and one the other side they may allow you to stay if there is space available. Most of the space where food is served is occupied by PWD workers and the Dhaba family itself, so if you are lucky you may get space to sleep there as well. They charge 100 Rs for night stay and provide quilts as well. You can take as many quilts as available with them and not in use by anyone.

As far as accommodation at bank of Chandratal Lake is concerned, it has been banned by the GOVT. lately so you need to pitch tents along side the parking site which is about 2.5 KMs from the lake where you need to trek this remaining distance

One more possibility is you can come back on Manali-Leh highway and rest at Khoskar (right from Gramphoo towards Leh side) in any guest house or cross Kunzum La – Losar and reach Kaza for the stay at night

Now there is always an option of taking your own camping stuff or getting them in a package with a guide or a porter. You can either hire camps from Manali or Delhi or buy your own if you are planning to camp many a time in future and serious about it. In case you are interested in camping then you will need tents, sleeping bags (-5 to -10 rated) and mattresses. Check out Adventure Gear: Hire Charges for a rough idea about rental charges (they have increased slightly), you can rent out gear from them or from any of the other camping equipment shop in Delhi (here is a list of them: Camping and Trekking Equipment in India)

Some more Tips to visit Chandratal

Around Chandertal

Personal Travelogues

Guide Map for Chandratal