How to plan a journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway


The 434 KM long Srinagar – Leh Highway is almost like a lifeline in the form of road connectivity between Leh – Ladakh and rest of India via Kashmir Valley. Srinagar – Leh Highway also known as National Highway – 1D (NH – 1D) is the most reliable and one of the only two ways to reach Leh – Ladakh by road, the other one being Manali – Leh Highway (Check: Travel Guide for Manali – Leh Highway here). Generally, travelers or adventure lovers from all over world loves or dreams to undertake this road trip of their life time by covering both routes connecting Leh – Ladakh to rest of India i.e. a lifetime experience road trip traversing Srinagar – Leh – Manali Highways. Apart from being famous for its enchanting views, this highway holds a strategic importance for India and being close to LOC, you see the heavy army presence on it when you travel through Srinagar – Leh Highway.

The highway runs along side the Indus River and through some extremely harsh and barren terrain including the three high mountain passes named Zozi La (3528 Mtrs), Namki La (3815 Mtrs) and Fotu La (4108 Mtrs). In any case, Srinagar – Leh highway offers some breathtaking landscapes ornamented by various historical and cultural constructions which are just like a dream treat for any traveler driving/riding through Srinagar – Leh Highway.

Generally, people traveling or flying directly to Leh – Ladakh suffers from acute mountain sickness as Leh (3500 Mtrs) due to sudden disturbance of altitude with which the body is adapted. However, Srinagar – Leh highway provides a gradual ascent to travelers thus helps them fight any chances of acute mountain sickness (AMS) caused due to high altitudes and let them enjoy the beautiful vistas in relaxed manner.

Season to Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway

The 434 KM long Srinagar Highway generally remains closed for about 6 months in an year starting from November to May due to heavy snowfall on the mountain passes mainly Zozi La pass. Zozi La pass starts receiving snowfall in the month of November and then any day of November (generally 15th November officially) the highway ceases to close officially as it becomes extremely difficult for BRO to clear the snow. Then, again as the winter months resides, the BRO guys begins the snow clearance process in spring season that is in March and repair the damaged roads, bridges and other parts of the highway. Finally, after completing this rigorous job of snow clearance and fixing the roads, bridges etc BRO announces the opening of Srinagar – Leh Highway generally around mid – May or by June first week.

Hence, the best season to travel Srinagar – Leh Highway is between June to October. In May, if the highway gets open then generally the roads are in really bad shape and only improves as the season progress with constant repair work conducted by BRO. By end of June as the road condition stabilizes the monsoon comes to the party in July and creates havoc in lower hills connecting Srinagar to Jammu and further to other parts of India. The landslides are almost inevitable in monsoon season which causes road blockages ever now and then. The Amarnath Yatra being in full flow in July – August, do expect heavy traffic and rush from Jammu – Srinagar – Kargil parts of highway. Even the dominance of armed forces also increase in July – August owing to the security of pilgrims of Amarnath Yatra.

It is almost a nightmare to drive through Zozi La Pass in July – August especially when its raining or has rained previous days but at any day better than Rohtang Pass on Manali – Leh Highway which becomes more than hell during monsoon season. One should always avoid Srinagar – Leh Highway during days alongside Independence Day in India i.e. 15th August which is when the bandhs and strikes gets more active. As the end of August approach, the Amarnath Yatra is over and monsoon starts to reside from Northern India, the conditions improve much more to travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway and in September it could be called as best time to travel but you will not find any snow of course. Even in August and late July snow will be hard to touch except few patches on Zozi La pass.

Since, the other side of Zozila Pass mainly Kargil onwards comes under rain shadow area where only the dry winds of monsoon reach. So, in July – August you need to tackle the monsoon rains and their havoc in lower hills only including Jammu, Srinagar, Zozi La pass i.e. till you reach Kargil where there is very little rain during these months.

Throughout the season, you need to let pass large convoys of army trucks as army also stock up required materials in Leh – Ladakh through Srinagar – Leh road majorly. This may cause delay of few hours every now and then in your entire journey on Srinagar – Leh highway.

Modes of Travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Private Vehicles i.e. Cars and Bikes | Self Drive or Ride to Ladakh

Most people prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by their own car or own bike and some also prefer to self drive or self ride to Ladakh by hiring a bike or car. In any case, hired car/bike or personal car/bike, idea is to live the passion of driving or riding through one of the toughest and adventurous terrains accessible in India. You can take your own or rented, car or bike to Ladakh but one must be careful while driving or riding through slushy roads, snow and water crossing or nallas. Also, it is always handy to learn little maintenance tasks of your vehicle prior to the start of this comparatively less arduous journey than Manali – Leh Highway.

For cars, although an SUV/MUV is good to have and a 4WD SUV will definitely help but I have seen hatchbacks (including Altos and Nano) and sedans doing good enough job on Srinagar – Leh Highway than on Manali – Leh Highway. If you want to try your sedan or hatch back drive to Ladakh then Srinagar – Leh Highway is better bet when compared to taking a sedan or hatch from Manali – Leh Highway. However like on Manali – Leh Highway, with sedans / hatchbacks one must drive with extra care and caution even at Srinagar – Leh Highway and especially around Zozila pass (ascend and descend both).

You get less number of challenges on Srinagar – Leh Highway as compared to Manali – Leh Highway with only major hurdle being Zozila Pass. However even then, whenever you are in doubt, always step out of your car, walk down the path, inspect with your foot and plan the path of exit before crossing a dangerous landslide or water crossing on your vehicle. You can also park aside and see how others are crossing the risky section to plan your route of escape. In deep water crossings try to maintain the momentum without any half clutch measures and complete the entire stretch in one go only. Similarly, in slush stretches do not force the issue rather keep the smooth momentum with required speed to pass you through, without half clutch measures. Do keep an eye on the direction of the vehicle too. If you get stuck in slush then try to back and forth your vehicles to get out of the stuck position. It is always handy to ask your fellow co-travelers to get out of the car and push the vehicle from behind incase the car is struggling to pass through the slush or water crossing stretch.

Basic toolkit, screw driver set, small hammer, puncture repair kit, iron rod, two or three “2 ltr” empty bottles of pepsi / coke / limca etc to carry extra petrol or diesel (jerry cans will leak, cold drink bottles do not leak), funnel, towing rope, spare tube (must for bikes), elfy or fevi quick (2-3 sachets), jump start cables/wires, M-seal to prevent leakage etc. were among the few things which I carried along on my trip to Ladakh. Also, do not forget to get your vehicle (car/bike) serviced about 2-3 weeks before the start of the Ladakh journey. This will ensure that you have proper time in advance to test your serviced vehicle and get fixed any hitches that may have been introduced in that service

Hiring a Private Taxi | Taxi Number or Private Number

All taxis (except Ladakh registration number) having taxi number or tourist permits number plates are only allowed for a drop in Leh – Ladakh. As per the taxi union rules only taxis with Ladakh number are only allowed to roam in the Ladakh region for sightseeing purposes. If you want to travel within Leh – Ladakh in your private taxi hired from a place other than Ladakh then in that case you need to hire a taxi with private number plate only. However, in the latter case be ready for some queries by the local taxi drivers in Ladakh or police constables on your route. You need to ensure everyone interrogating with you that the vehicles is not hired.

If you can get hold of some taxi driver in Ladakh then hire that taxi only else go to Kargil first and change taxi from there. From Kargil, the Ladakh taxi driver can pick you and you will have the advantage to cover the sightseeing places en-route Leh on Srinagar – Leh Highway like Alchi, Basgo, Likir etc before you reach Leh. If that is not your plan then hire a direct taxi from Srinagar to Leh but with taxi hired with Srinagar number plate you will not be able to do sightseeing en-route especially Sham Valley, as far as I know.

To hire a taxi, go directly to Srinagar taxi stand and bargain hard with the local drivers only, for a drop to Leh. Do not involve any tour operator or hotel staff at any stage. The local taxi drivers will charge about Rs 1200-1500 extra for a planned night halt on the way to Leh. The charges are close to Rs 9000 to Rs 12000 for a drop to Leh from Srinagar with one night halt, depending on your bargaining power, tourist rush and the time of the year you are visiting.

Srinagar – Leh Bus Service, JK SRTC and Others | Economical mode of travel

JK SRTC ply buses on Srinagar – Leh Highway which are available at Srinagar Bus Stand near Lal Chowk and near Polo Ground in Leh. I guess JK SRTC have both standard as well as semi-deluxe buses which run Srinagar – Leh Highway with cost of about Rs 500 – Rs 600 for Standard bus and Rs 600 – Rs 700 for semi-deluxe types. There are also few private bus operators running semi-deluxe buses between Srinagar – Leh who charge about Rs 800 – Rs 900 per seat.

These buses generally stop at Kargil for the night and Sonamarg for tea and snacks. The JK SRTC buses may not be as comfortable though but comfort comes with the price. The buses leaves Srinagar around 5 AM and Leh around 6 AM, I guess.

Shared Taxi | A Cannon ball run

You can also buy yourself a seat in a shared taxi which runs every mid-night from Srinagar and reaches Leh on next evening without any night halt. In the same way, shared taxis are run from Leh to Srinagar as well.

You need to pay about Rs 1200 to Rs 1500 per person for a drop to Leh from Srinagar or a drop to Srinagar from Leh. Of course, since it is shared with 7-8 other people plus the driver and completes the back braking cannon ball run of Srinagar – Leh in 16-18 hours, you can imagine the level of comfort yourself. This one is the second cheapest mode of travel on Srinagar – Leh Highway but mind you, it could be the toughest on the body too 🙂

Also, not staying at Kargil will mean less acclimatization which may make you feel a bit sick in the first few days when you reach Leh.

Other travel modes

You can also get in touch with some travel agent or taxi union in Srinagar who also runs their private buses or Tempo Travelers on Srinagar – Leh Highway.

Planning Night Stay or Accommodation on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Based on my experience, you can opt to plan a journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway in one of the following ways –

Two Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway

The options of stay or accommodation are very limited on Manali – Leh Highway due to the limited civilization but on the Srinagar – Leh Highway you get the respite as there are plenty of civilized places enroute and you get to find accommodation either one or the other place. You will find accommodation option ever 70-80 odd KMs on an average. But still, a two day journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway is the most common among all travelers as you tend to see the beauty in relaxing manner as well as you help your body to accilimatize to the altitude of Leh. Private Taxis and buses run by JK SRTC also cover the Srinagar – Leh Highway in two days with night halt at Kargil. Mostly, people break up the journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway in the following ways over a span of two days –

Srinagar – Kargil / Drass (Day 1) and Kargil / Drass – Leh (Day 2)

This option is mostly preferred by people as it evenly distributes the travel time of the entire journey in two days. However, on the second day, you need to leave early in the morning if you are interested to stop at every other point to take pictures and still reach Leh in time :).

Personally, out of Kargil or Drass you shall prefer to stay at Kargil due to varied options of accommodation available at Kargil. But, many a times finding vegetarian food becomes difficult in Kargil in the late evening and hence, you can opt to stay at Drass which does offer a few accommodation options. The distance between Drass – Kargil is about 60 KMs only which means about 2 hours of more travel time on next day.

If you are a vegetarian then most likely, what you can do is that if you are reaching Drass by about evening then its good to take your dinner there and reach Kargil by the late evening or early night time. May be a tea or coffee with some biscuits will make you feel good for rest of the night. It will surely help rather than sleeping without vegetarian food due its unavailability in Kargil 🙂

One Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway
Srinagar – Leh (Day 1)

This option of completing the journey of Srinagar – Leh in single day is mostly common among local people or people who are in high rush and is least recommended if you want to enjoy your travel. Shared taxis are the preferred way to avail this option. Although, it could be the cheapest or time saving for you but this back braking, cannon ball run of 15-16 Hrs with least stoppages does put a heavy toll on the body as well as the mind of an average traveler. This long journey is extremely tiring and by traversing through the varied amount of altitudes in a single day, you are definitely running a risk of acute mountain sickness (AMS) or some severe headaches and for initial days spent in Leh. Of course, this is true incase you have not stayed overnight in Gulmarg or Pahalgam or Sonamarg on previous nights of your tour. Doing in a single day, may certainly kill the joy of the journey.

Three Day Journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway
Srinagar –  Kargil/Drass (Day 1) and  Kargil/Drass  – Lamayuru/Alchi (Day 2) and Lamayuru/Alchi – Leh (Day 3)

Well, by extending the journey of Srinagar – Leh Highway in three days, you give yourself a chance to explore the sightseeing places en-route thoroughly. There are many tourist destinations in Ladakh region which are situated on Srinagar – Leh Highway and requires time if you really wish to explore them. Hence, by extending the journey with one day you give your self ample of time to explore these tourist places before you reach Leh. For more details on sightseeing refer section: Sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway, below in the article.

Very few people follow this option due to lack of time and to save money. If these two things have no place for consideration at your grounds then I will say just go with it and you will make your journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway much more than a memorable experience :). I guess the comparison of night halts (Drass/Kargil) is already done in first option, so opt as per your taste.

This option will mostly be available, if you are traveling by your own vehicle. To be very frank, this option is not even available if you are hiring a private Srinagar registered taxi as well because Srinagar registered taxi are not allowed for local sightseeing in Ladakh region especially Sham Valley where all these tourist places are present. In such a case you need to book a taxi to Kargil first from Srinagar and then hire yourself a taxi from Kargil to Leh or you need to hire a Ladakh registered number taxi. Confirm in advance from the driver if he will do sightseeing for Sham Valley before booking it. Then, in next two days after covering all tourist destinations including Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Redzong, Alchi, Likir, Sham Valley etc on the route you can reach Leh.

Staying one night at Alchi, which is lower in altitude than Leh, also make sure that your body is much more acclimatized to the altitude of Leh and you enjoy a lot better conditions once you reach Leh after a stay at Kargil and Alchi on previous nights.

Alternate Route to Leh from Kargil via Batalik and Dah

There exist an alternate route to reach Leh once you reach Kargil which is a bit more scenic than the usual route. The usual route goes like Kargil – Mulbekh – Lamayuru – Leh and the alternate, less used route goes like Kargil – Batalik – Dah – Skurbuchan – Leh.

Please make a note that the route via Batalik requires you to get the Inner Line Permits from either DC Office Kargil or DC Office Leh. So, I will advise that you go to Leh from Kargil via Lamayuru following the usual route and then you can come back to Kargil via Batalik after getting the permits from Leh DC office at the time you apply permits for Ladakh sightseeing places like Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso etc. If you are returning via Manali – Leh Highway then you need to take permits from Kargil DC Office to go via Batalik route and thereby miss the usual route to Leh which goes via Lamayuru.

Sightseeing on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Well, while traversing this beautiful road of Srinagar – Leh Highway you also give yourself a chance to visit the following places either on the route or with little diversions from the route –

Maitrey at Mulbek, Lamayuru Monastery, Lunar Landscape, Redzong / Rizong Monastery,  Alchi Monastery, Likir Monastery, Basgo Palace, Confluence at Nimmu, Magnetic Hills, Pathar Sahib Gurudwara, Phyang Monastery, Spituk Monastery.

You need to give yourself time to explore these places especially Lamayuru, Alchi and Likir monasteries. Hence, if you plan to cover these sightseeing places either while going towards Leh from Srinagar or towards Srinagar from Leh, then give yourself at least 3 days to cover the entire Srinagar – Leh route.

List of Accommodation or Stay Options on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Srinagar – Leh Highway is much better than Manali – Leh Highway in terms of accommodation options it offers and one can find decent place to stay within 125 odd KMs at max. At some places like Mulbekh, Sonamarg, Drass etc the accommodation options could be very limited and basic guest house / home stay types while places like Kargil, Lamayuru does offer varied amount of accommodation options. So, it always better to break the journey at Kargil or Lamayuru but of course there are not much worries for places of stay on Srinagar – Leh Highway than on Manali – Leh Highway. You can also take diversion to the towns of Alchi / Likir for a stay there as well. Of course you will find basic home stay types of accommodation at both Alchi / Likir but it would be a worthwhile experience in any case. Here is the break up of accommodation options available on Srinagar – Leh Highway with distances –

  • Srinagar – Sonamarg (80 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Sonamarg
  • Sonamarg – Drass (65 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Drass
  • Drass – Kargil (55 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Kargil
  • Kargil – Mulbekh (40 KMs) | Few basic / home stay accommodation options available at Mulbekh
  • Mulbekh – Lamayuru (70 KMs) | Decent number of accommodation options available at Lamayuru
  • Lamayuru – Alchi / Likir (55 – 65 KMs / 65 – 75 KMs) | Few basic / home stay accommodation options available at Alchi / Likir
  • Lamayuru – Leh (125 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Leh
  • Alchi / Likir – Leh ( 65 KM / 55 KMs) | Many accommodation options available at Leh

Please keep in mind that Alchi and Likir are not exactly on Srinagar – Leh Highway and you need to take diversions near Sasapol, I guess, for either of them. The distance between Alchi – Likir is about 18 – 20 KMs only.

Acclimatization and its importance on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Unlike Manali – Leh Highway, the journey on Srinagar – Leh Highway goes through gradual increase in altitude thereby helping our body to get acclimatized properly for the altitude of Leh. That is why going through Srinagar – Leh Highway is always preferred for road trip to Ladakh than going via Manali – Leh Highway. By going to Leh – Ladakh from Srinagar – Leh Highway, one gives himself a chance to properly acclimatize to the high altitudes there by decreasing the chances of being hit by AMS. In the return leg, you can go via Leh – Manali Highway so that your body is properly acclimatized by the time you under take the varied high altitudes on that route. This helps you enjoy the Manali – Leh highway in a better way as well.

Having said that even on Srinagar – Leh Highway its always good that you take little precautions to further minimize the effects of high altitude  sickness. Here are some tips which will help acclimatizing the body faster

  • Try to cover the Srinagar – Leh journey in two days with a night halt at Kargil most preferably.
  • Keep your body properly hydrated.
  • Avoid sleeping at high altitudes.
  • Avoid over exertion.
  • Avoid tobacco and smoking and alcohol and other depressant drugs.
  • Keep your body warm and eat lots of carbohydrates.
  • Avoid sleep during the day.
  • Sleep in upright position, if possible.
  • Carry preventive medicines for AMS.
  • Immediately descend, if symptoms increase.

For more information on Acute Mountain Sickness and all above acclimatization tips, please refer the following link at least once: Acute Mountain Sickness and Importance of Acclimatization

Fuel or Petrol Pumps on Srinagar – Leh Highway

Again, unlike Manali – Leh Highway, it is easy to find fuel or petrol on Srinagar – Leh Highway. One can get fuel or petrol on Srinagar Leh Highway at:  Srinagar, Kangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha,  Khaltsi, Leh

ATMs on Srinagar – Leh Highway

As per my knowledge there are ATMS available at Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil apart from Leh and Srinagar ATMs. I guess you should carry enough cash with you in Ladakh because ATMs at these limited places can run out of money or become un-operational at any day or time.

Places on Srinagar – Leh Highway with their Distances and Altitudes

Generally, the places of on Srinagar – Leh Highway majorly goes like Srinagar – Sonamarg – Zozi La – Drass – Kargil – Mulbekh – Namika La – Fotu La – Lamayuru – Khaltsi – Sasapol – Nimmu – Leh and the approximate distances between these places is shown below briefly –

  • Srinagar – Sonamarg (80 KMs)
  • Sonamarg – Drass (65 KMs)
  • Drass – Kargil (55 KMs)
  • Kargil – Mulbekh (40 KMs)
  • Mulbekh – Lamayuru (70 KMs)
  • Lamayuru – Leh (125 KMs)

Summarized View of Facilities or Amenities on Srinagar – Leh Highway



Accommodations / Stay Options

Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi
Food / Beverages Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil (Many options), Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi
Diesel / Petrol Pumps Mangan, Sonamarg, Kargil, Mulbekh, Wakha, Khaltsi
Mobile Connectivity
  • Upto Sonamarg both BSNL and Airtel post paid connections work, then in Drass only BSNL, once you reach Kargil you will get the Airtel signal, but then in Mulbekh and Lamayuru only BSNL works, in Nimmu Airtel is restored along with BSNL and once you reach Leh both Airtel and BSNL works.
  • Of course BSNL has more coverage and better connectivity within this range than any other operator. Airtel works in Ladakh but with poor connectivity.
  • SMS does work fine for both BSNL and Airtel.
  • Vodafone did not work after Srinagar and but now works in Leh – Ladakh with Aircel. Surprisingly, Anadi reports recently (June 2013) below that it does not work anymore, may be contract renewal did not happen or what. So, do not rely on Vodafone.
  • Aircel also work in Leh and adjoining areas.
  • Packet data works but only with BSNL that too with EDGE only.
  • Prepaid connections from outside Jammu and Kashmir do not work in Leh – Ladakh. Carry only post-paid.
  • Anadi reports below: Vodafone postpaid still does not work after anywhere after Srinagar on Srinagar-Leh Highway and towns falling on the said highway.(It works in Gulmarg and Pahalgam). It did not work in Sonemarg, Drass, Kargil, Mulbek, Khaltse, Nimmu and Leh. Bsnl was omnipresent. In Leh, Bsnl, Airtel and Aircel were working. Vodafone, Reliance and Idea were not working.
Fixed Phones Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil, Mulbekh, Lamayuru, Alchi, Nimmu and in between these places as well
Electricity Almost all the towns en-route have electricity and I wonder if there is any town which lacks it.
Medical Facilities Sonamarg, Drass (limited), Kargil, Lamayuru (limited)
ATMs Ganderbal, Drass, Kargil
Mechanic / Puncture Shops Ganderbal, Sonamarg, Kargil, Lamayuru (Puncture), Mulbekh (Puncture), Nimmu (Puncture)
Liquor Shops Sonamarg, Drass, Kargil


Have you ever been to Srinagar – Leh Highway? If yes, please share your view points, suggestions or inputs as comments below, it will help other fellow travelers to plan their own journey on one of the beautiful highways of India. Are you planning to go to Ladakh via Srinagar – Leh Highway? If yes, please feel free to ask any queries or doubts you have regarding the same as comments below. I will be happy to reply and discuss them with you. Looking forward for your responses 🙂

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  1. Hi we are planning a trip to Ladakh from 7th OCT to 12th OCT starting from Delhi by car.
    Can you please update the current situation
    Our Travel Rout – Delhi–Srinagar–LEH–Manali–Delhi
    will it be safe to travel?

        • Well, Manali – Leh Highway will not be safe during that time of the year. The place is desolated and traveling without any backup support is not suggested. If you consider Srinagar – Leh Highway, things have come back to normalcy to an extent and passage for tourists may be safe but you never know. Also, Srinagar – Leh will mean 8 days just of travel without seeing anything in Ladakh.

  2. Hi Deeraj ji ,

    I have traveled ladak last yeasr from chennai with the help from you and inputs (11 day from srinagar to leh).

    This year i am planning to travel Leh in November 4th .

    Plan is to travel from Chennai to delhi (flight) and delhi –> leh (flight) and visist , Naubra valley , Pangong lake and tsomori lake and return Leh -delhi (flgith) .

    Please guide us , whether it was good idea to travel in november month ,
    do we get cab to visit Naubra valley , pangon lake etc durin month,

    THank you in advance ,

  3. Rohit Sharma on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    I read all your blogs regularly and also made my itinerary with help of one mentioned in your blog Srinagar-Leh- Manali starting from Delhi, now i got the answer from the above thread about the situation in Srinagar.
    But there is still some time to start my trip, i am planning to start from 25th of Sept, Is there any way to get the current and live status of Srinagar.
    Thanks in Advance.

    • Sorry Rohit, do not know a way to find live status apart from talking to hotel owners in Srinagar. Last week it was very bad with tourist vehicles also beeing pelted with stones and army had to stop the movement. This created hassles for many tourists and hence I feel situation is not so good to travel from Srinagar this remaining season at all.

      • Rohit Sharma on

        Thank you i got the contact number of one of the house boat owner in Srinagar(DAL LAKE), He told me the same that the situation is still Bad, Though he told me to call him back 2 days before leaving from Delhi.
        So right now i just hope everything will be fine soon.
        One more question if you can help, Is there any way or route via Shimla-sangla-reckong pio- kaza- spiti valley to reach LEH ?
        or Manali- Leh highway is the last option ?
        I have max 12-14 days for this trip and i will be riding my Royal enfield from Delhi itself.
        Please suggest me a good circuit.

        • Rohit, the route from Kinnaur – Spiti Valley is very long and meets Manali – Leh Highway only at Gramphu. It requires a dedicated trip IMHO.

  4. vikram ghadwal on

    hi dheeraj,

    first of all congrats and thank you for the website. me and my friend are planning to travel leh via srinagar-leh highway between 1st october to 11th october from delhi
    we plan to do delhi jammu via train to and fro
    we plan to jammu -srinagar via cab to and fro.
    from srinagar we want to rent a bullet and proceed further
    it will be a ride with pillion.
    But while going we are planning to take a halt at kargil for night stay and then continue on next day covering the scenic beauties of monasteries and colorful nature,
    however while returning we are planning to cover leh to srinagar in a single day.. is it possible.
    any good rental shops you can suggest in srinagar, couldnt find much options online
    since now curfew being lifted in some parts of the valley, will it be safe ?

    • Vikram, I dont think after curfew rental shops will be available in Srinagar or operational. But, you can check. Also, Leh – Srinagar is a 16 Hrs journey, not recommended on bike in a single day.

  5. Mr. Dheeraj,how are u.this is wonderful site.sir I want to know can I plan leh tour from Srinagar dated 10 Oct and returning back from leh about 20 th Oct through leh manali highway.

    • satyanarayana on

      i had done Jammu-srinagar in my car in May 2016. Roads are horrible and it took about 12 hrs ride. On the way, one does not find any eating joints literally nothing, at all. thbuucks are there in large numbers. there is nothing much to see between jammu and srinagar. instead one should fly to srinagar and take road to leh from there. but with the present political scene at srinagar. i dont when it will become better for tourist.

      • I agree, if one dont have enthu of drive, best is to land in srinagar and then continue. However, this year due to unrest it is not recommended to travel from srinagar side.

  6. Hi,
    i’m going to srinagar & leh next month from 14 sept till 30 sept. i plan to take a bus from srinagar to kargil to leh. how’s the situation there now? is it safe to do road trip to leh from srinagar? this is my dream and i really wanna do that.

    i plan to stay in kargil 1 night, any recommendation for hostel in kargil? when i bought the ticket from srinagar to leh, the bus will stop and stay in kargil 1 night or i need to buy separate ticket from kargil to leh?

    In srinagar, i think i will stay only 1 night and the rest of the night i will move to pahalgram, gulmarg, sonarmag. i plan to spend 7 day in kashmir area and 7 days in leh before take bus from leh to manali and manali to delhi.

    thanks in advance

  7. hi,
    Good day.

    im planning to go for a trip from srinagar-leh-manali.i wil reach srinagar by sept 4th morning.we are two peoples.and need to reach manali by sept 9 or 10.our mode of transportion is bus .suggest places to visit,where to stay.reply asap.

  8. How long does it take to exit Srinagar city from Srinagar International Airport? Does the raod pass from within the city or is their any bypass? N how’s situation in SONAMARG?

  9. Hi Dheeraj,

    Do you know anyone or have heard of any foreign tourist who arrived with a e-tourist visa (e-TV) and proceed to Leh?

    In the eTV webpage, it was stated that eTV is not valid for visiting restricted area:

    “e-Tourist Visa (eTV) once issued on arrival is Only single entry , non-extendable , non-convertible & not valid for visiting Protected/Restricted and Cantonment Areas.”

    I understand that foreigners need to apply for permit to visit certain areas in Leh but can I apply the permit with an eTV?

    I checked some forums and some said they have done it before and have no problem applying for a inner line permit with the eTV but the visa authority replied saying it is not possible.

    Can you please help to clarify?


    • I am extremely sorry Noel, I do not have any idea about it. You can basically go over to Leh as you do not need any permits to visit Leh. Once, there you can go over to DC office and apply for permits and clarify it. If permits are not issued, you can continue your journey to Zanskar Valley which does not require any permit.

  10. sonali bansal on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    How are you doing? I am planning to go to leh from Srinagar to Leh highway from 5th October and staying a night at Kargil. Do you think taking a shared cab or hiring a taxi for this is a good idea? And also when we come back, we want to come back from Manali-Leh highway. Do you think around 13th October we could take that route?

    • I am doing good Sonali, thank you. Yeah, that shall be fine. Since, you will be alone private taxi will be very costly.

      That late in the season I DO NOT recommend traveling on Manali – Leh Highway.

  11. Dear Dheeraj,
    I have booked tickets for Srinagar in 2 nd week of Sept, 2016. Since the situation in the valley still remains tense, I would like to go to Leh instead. Would I be able to sneak out of Srinagar without much problems?

    • Dhanya, I will not advice you to travel from Srinagar side considering the present situation. The situation may improve but if you are at the verge of making decision based on current situation, my advice will be to either fly in to Leh or go from Manali side.


    we have planned to go to srinagar via leh from delhi but we are bit confused whether we go to srinagar or not we only planned for gulmarg and dal lake is it possible to go srinagar from leh.our plan is like this delhi to leh by flight stay in leh for 5 days then from leh to srinagar by road via kargil then srinagar to delhi by flight.please tell me is it possible or not otherwise we have a alternate plan if srinagar dont work out we will go to manali from leh and from manali to delhi by bus kindly suggest soon.our trip starts from aug 28 & ends on i mean back to delhi is 6th september.

  13. Hi Dheeraj,

    What if I plan from jammu to leh? Reach srinagar the same evening make an overnight stay and leave for kargil the early morning the next day? Is it advisable for 19th sep 2016??

  14. I think the main worry issue is the journey from Patnitop to Sonamarg. Once one past Sonamarg…….will it b fine or more worries ahead?

  15. Hi Every one,

    We are planning to start our trip in the 1st week of October from Srinagar to Leh. And we are planning to rent bikes in tat region. Can we get bikes for rental in Srinagar? If we can what will be the approx rate at which bikes are provided for rent?

  16. Does anyone have recently done srinagar to leh?
    We have a flight to Srinagar on 28th Aug. And hearing a lot about curfew & militant activities.
    Will that route be open & safe by 28th Aug.

    Thanks in advance.

  17. Hi Dheeraj!
    I am planning a 12 Night trip to Ladakh next week , starting and ending at Leh. Here is my itinerary; would be grateful if you could give your inputs …is it too packed (specially the day 2-3 etc. We are a couple in late thirties. Cant tell you how much it would mean to us. Would be grateful for a quick revert.
    Day1: On arrival at airport move to Alchi Night@Alchi
    Day2: Khaltse-dhomkhar-dha-batalik-Kargil Night@Kargil
    Day3: Kargil – Drass – Kargil – Lamayure – Leh Night@Leh
    Day4: Leh Night@Leh
    Day5: Leh- Nubra Night@Nubra
    Day6: Nubra – Turtuk – Nubra Night@Nubra
    Day 7: Nubra – Leh Night@Leh
    Day 8: Leh – Pangong Night@Pangong
    Day 9: Pangong – Hanle Night@Hanle
    Day 10: Hanle -Tsomoriri Night@Tsomoriri
    Day 11: Tsomoriri – Tsokar Night@Tsokar
    Day 12: Tsokar – Taglan La – Leh Night@Leh
    Day 13: Leave for Del

  18. Harsh Pandya on

    Hi Dheeraj, pretty useful info you have here,

    so, i will be in Leh in the first week of September, and by end of second week i will be heading to Srinagar via Kargil.
    I read your previous feedback to avoid that region and your posts regarding bus timings, although i am looking to spend a day in Kargil.

    so how can i make this possible.?
    leh to kargil- a days stay in kargil- and leave for srinagar on the day after

    any info on the above would be really helpful

  19. OMG. Even outside Taxis r not allowed their. So it means one have to pay them rent for 3-4 days in free.

  20. Outside bikes r not allowed in Leh for local sightseeing. R they allowed to visit towards Nubra Valley n Khaardungla Pass. N wht outside taxis?

  21. Hello dheeraj!
    Very well planned itinerary.. I followed the same for my trip in last week of july. The situation in srinagar was very tense, we did encounter the hostile elements on our way to gulmarg (we didn’t stay at srinagar due to curfew), but thanks to our armed forces that we escaped unhurt. We also had planned for amarnath yatra on our way to leh, and successfully completed it! At leh, we did meet rigzin and rented out his vehicle for rest of the trip which was a pleasant experience. Many thanks for the elaborate planning which was our only guide in situation with no mobile networks or internet..

    • Thank you so much Rohit for writing back. Glad to know about that you had a safe and rest of the wonderful trip. I am sure with Rigzin, it had been a much better experience. He is a really nice chap 🙂

      • Many thanks for reply!
        I would like to add to the itinerary. Going by the shok river from nubra valley to Pangong lake via agham saves a day’s travel..
        Also, I would advise all planning the trip to avoid srinagar completely..

        • Ronak Chandak on

          We have booked our flights Srinagar-Delhi on 25 Sept. And are now planning to fly Delhi-Srinagar too on 15 September.
          Is the situation really bad? Cannot even transit in/out of Srinagar the same day?




  23. Girish Mulani on

    Hi again Dheeraj,

    Could you please guide me further on the bus timings from Srinagar for LEH. I will be arriving in Srinagar at 1100 hrs (by air) on the 19th and would prefer to depart out of SXR the same date, what would the best option?

    Given the current situation in SXR, would you suggest us to find an alternative route instead?

    Thank you once again for your kind assistance.



  24. Kindly suggest me the tour plan from Manali side n return back from Manali too. I want to travel upto Sonmarg n then return back. We have 12 days in hand. Leaving Chandigarh on 4th Sept. n back to Chandigarh on 15th Sept. I want to visit every possible place when leaving from Manali itself bcoz if situation improved……I’ll exit from Srinagar side……n if doesn’t then return back from Manali side.

  25. Kumar L Pillai on

    Hi Dheeraj,

    We are planning to start on 16th August 2016 from Ahmedabad to Leh via Srinagar.
    We are four people and will drive a XUV500.
    Probably will stay after Jammu and cross Srinagar the next day and stay at Sonmarg.
    Is it advisable as we are not going to stay at Srinagar and if any bypass available we will take it.
    From Leh we will take Manali route to return.

    Kindly suggest

    Thanking You

  26. HI , DHEERAJ

    ROUTE :

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